Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: SpaceParanoid on June 21, 2025, 02:35:17 pm
-
First-time cab build powered by a mini PC (BigBox front end) and just wanted to see if I'm on the right track with this proposed power setup. Any feedback appreciated, still quite new at this:
Current plan:
1) Inline rocker switch STARELO Extension Cord Switch https://tinyurl.com/4h5bxayr (https://tinyurl.com/4h5bxayr) This would poke out from the inside of the cab in the back through a cutout, plugs into the wall and the female end receives the Master/slave smart power strip below.
2) Master/slave smart power strip TrickleStar TS0006 4 Outlet Powertap https://tinyurl.com/3nv3c7ns (https://tinyurl.com/3nv3c7ns) is plugged into #1 and PC is plugged into the master outlet of this. PC is Mini PC Beelink SER6 PRO Mini PC W11 Pro (PC plug says 19V, 6.32A) and BIOS auto boots with power and auto-launches BigBox with a scheduled task.
3) Regular power strip for rest of components: ALESTOR Surge Protector https://tinyurl.com/ypta6r6z (https://tinyurl.com/ypta6r6z) is plugged into a slave outlet of #2 and contains the rest of these peripherals:
- Main monitor: (plug says 19V, 3.42A)
- CP button LEDs (x14): LED wire harness that will go to a 12V plug (unsure of amps?)
- PACLed64 board: Also just a wire that will go to a 12V plug (unsure of amps?). This board is for the lighting (several LEDs) that came with the Ultimarc trackball (and I guess I could put the button lighting above on this too?)
- Coin door LEDs: wall plug says 12V, 1A
- Main marquee screen: wall plug says 12V, 2A
- Mini marquee info screen: wall plug says 12V, 2A
- Powered USB hub: wall plug says 12V, 2A
- Speaker amp: wall plug that says 12V, 3A
- Future devices?: Maybe another powered USB hub or some LED strips.
4) Power up the whole system with #1, then shut down the system from an arcade button either mapped to BigBox command or map to a script that runs a shutdown command.
I know I should use a panel-mount C14 inlet with fused switch instead of #1 but I’m just being scared, honestly. I’ve learned how to wire CPs and crimp QDs and Dupont connectors, but I have an irrational fear of doing big-boy AC wiring and burning my house down. I wish there was just a better professionally made option like this one (out of stock) https://tinyurl.com/yc7kw9xt (https://tinyurl.com/yc7kw9xt)
Also you might suggest I just get a bigger smart power strip with more slave outlets instead of patching in yet another powerstrip. I’ve just found a lot of those plugs have big footprints and just need their own dedicated strip to fit. Wasn’t sure if this was bad practice though.
Sorry for the wall of text, but if you’ve read this far I do appreciate it!
-
I think most of this looks on point. Not sure about the rocker switch. On my mini PC, I just tied a arcade button to the PC power on wire which plugs into the master like yours. The slaves control the monitor, speakers and a wall wart that runs the marquee lights /accessories.
-
Thanks for the feedback, helps eliminate some of my second guessing. Much appreciated.
-
Late to the thread, but if your PC already autoboots with power, then I'm not seeing why you'd need the master/slave strip. Usually you use one of those with the intention of keeping power to the PC at all times, but then using the PC's boot to trigger power to all of the other devices. But in your design, the inline rocker switch will effectively handle booting the PC AND everything else.
The main goal is to have everything turn on with a single switch/button, and it seems like you'll have that anyway. When you're done, shut down the PC as you planned, then flip the switch on the inline rocker (or C14 inlet if you go that route).