Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: bobbyb13 on July 19, 2021, 06:09:49 am
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Hey everybody,
Recently bought what I was told is a working WG 4600 chassis (to try to use with one of the old consumer tubes I have 'collected') and because I am a monitor noob I have no idea what I am looking at even after reading through the manual I found.
Before I try to power this thing up and blow it up right out of the gate I was hoping for some wisdom on its connections.
To begin with, there is a stray wire (a ground from location 'E' area on the neckboard?) that has a blob of solder on the end but is just hanging loose.
Any hints on where this is supposed to be terminated?
The other neckboard ground goes to the metal part of the chassis frame (based on a note written next to a screw there) but does the jacketed ground from the flyback unit attach to that same location on the frame, or go somewhere else?
And there are a number of harnesses that I have no clue on what they are (or where they attach.)
The one from the neckboard (labeled 'K') I would think goes back to a location on the mainboard (or is it one of the daughter boards?) but where?
Then there is one harness from the main board (labeled 'H') that I don't know what it is or where it goes.
And then yet another group of wires (red, green, blue, and yellow- NOT in a harness- just with spade connectors) that I am not sure of what they are either.
I have looked through the WG manual and searched here and elsewhere for this and it isn't helping me any, mostly because I literally don't know what I am looking at.
Only thing I DO know is that it needs an isolation transformer- and I assume that it is a 1:1 type for this chassis?
And while I'm at it I suppose, does someone have a ballpark value for the yoke to see which of these 19" tubes I have may actually work without stressing anything out?
Now I think of it too, is there a specific 'recommissioning' protocol to follow so I don't immediately roast chassis or tube? (or me either while I'm at it...)
I planned on using this in a jamma wired mame PC build if possible and don't want to make a mess.
Any clarity would be greatly appreciated!
Aloha,
Bobby
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Anybody...?
:dunno
And I found a blackened wire which has pulled out of wherever it was- which is in the neighborhood of a blackened part of the board just for extra fun.
Looks like I got burned by this guy since there is no way this thing is functional as is.
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I forgot..
Take a look here: https://bperkins.wordpress.com/2019/12/21/working-on-the-crt/ (https://bperkins.wordpress.com/2019/12/21/working-on-the-crt/)
If you need any more pics - let me know.
Hopefully you can see everything.
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Bobby,
First just want to say how impressed I am with how far you’ve expanded your knowledge in the short time you’ve been here. And taking on this challenge is in that vein.
Couple of things. The k4600 chassis have yoke value requirements that you are unlikely to find in a consumer grade TV (assuming that’s your donor tube). For reference an effort was made to collect these values here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,28188.0.html
If that is your intention to swap with a consumer TV, you will want to track down a k4600 yoke. The arcade boneyard is a good place to start:
http://thearcadeboneyard.com
For the tube swap (well I guess it’s more of a tube installation), I would recommend watching Arcade Jason’s video. He is great at explaining things:
https://youtu.be/_iSZYxrRSL4
Also a few of us can help with specific questions on the chassis as I have one but am heading out for vacation this week.
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Thank you greatly for the replies gentlemen.
Appreciate the link to your blog Mr. bperkins. That was very helpful (and nicely done) and shows how much more I need to learn :lol
And thanks for the compliment Arroyo- I still have a long way to go. If not for many of you here who are quite generous with wisdom I would even now still be swimming with one arm in a sling.
This hobby really is good fun, especially since doing it all requires switching hats often.
Only frustrating part for me is that getting a complete monitor shipped to me is more $$ than it appears most of you would need to spend on an intact and functional cabinet!
I suppose I need to double check the tube I had in mind for the possibility of being compatible and then hopefully go yoke shopping...
In the meantime I'll be cleaning this thing some more and maybe pick up a cap kit.
Down the rabbit hole!