Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: javeryh on January 31, 2021, 04:19:33 pm
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Do I need to cover the back of the power receptacle? If so, with what?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210131/1daef75319998ec8234c15de00c07bae.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210131/99d8008e5dd7746367a9ce523e7551d7.jpg)
That metal box is the PSU for the computer. The SmartStrip is plugged into the female end of an extra PC power cord that I wired to the receptacle on the back of the cabinet.
I was thinking of making a small box out of cardboard and lining it with electrical tape and covering it. Not sure what else to do or if it is necessary.
Thanks.
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There are no exposed leads that I can see..
No need ..
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Ditto.
Your insulated terminal connectors are doing their job.
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Thanks guys. I'm going to test it out this morning...
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I think you're all looking at it the wrong way. :) As it is at the moment it is fine as all the terminals are connected and covered but what happens if one becomes accidently disconnected? You have the potential of having an bare terminal with mains voltage exposed.
I don't know what you have available in your location but I would probably screw a mounting block over the top of it with a blank plate screwed on to that which gives you accessibility. I always consider what could happen if anything should go wrong and base my decision on that.
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If I were going to change anything.. I would cut the power strip cord to the correct length.. add connectors and have it direct attach to the socket. (wait.. I did that.. because its neater and a lot less can go wrong) http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156272.msg1648280.html#msg1648280 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156272.msg1648280.html#msg1648280) In fact - my connectors do not have hoods.. its not a big deal.
Right now there are 4' of cord, coiled up and plugged into an socket that basically extends a socket going to a cord outside the cabinet.. I'd eliminate all of those connections that can oxidize over time, generate heat and cause issues. That is where the issues will come in..
If those spade terminals are tight - they are not falling off the way it is. there is nothing exposed.. my cabinet has been set up like this for years.. its sealed.. unless rodents get inside .. its not coming loose.
There is a point of too much.. If you really really really want to be really sure.. once its done.. encase the whole thing in epoxy..
My point is we are discussing how much is too much. Encasing in epoxy.. too much.. building a box around connections that are not exposed.. is also too much ..
and javeryh - you do good work - Buy a meter :)
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I don't really know what I am looking at...It looks safe, however since the ground is on the bottom I am thinking normally a DPDT would be connected vertical not horizontal like that, and like a light switch generally I would have the neutral (white) wires on the left...Guess it hard to say without looking at it closer, Just saying...As for safety the crimps look good and that would be an acceptable method, Personally Jenn would move the Ps a little farther away if you have the room since that is a ground (and metal) just because, not because it is any less safe...I would have to be of the opinion however if you don't have a meter you probibally shouldn't be messing with electricity at all, much less line voltages.
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I think some of it depends on how you utilize your cab. Mine is designed for storage in the lower area next to all that power, so I want to make sure it's extra safe. I think a basic pvc outlet box should be sufficient to cover it. Although Jenn is right.... even I went out and bought a meter so I'm in the clear for this type of work. :laugh2: :cheers:
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I just did one like this last week and I simply soldered the wires on with some heatshrink for good measure. I didn't bother with a cover, but it is right up the back and inaccessible.
My power plug inlet includes a switch and 10A fuse, which is not a bad idea.
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There are no exposed leads that I can see..
On closer examination, there is a shiny metal jumper from Hot/Live in (3) to fuse holder in. (5)
- If it doesn't already have a clear insulating layer, you could hit the exposed part of that jumper with a coat of clear nail pollish. ;D
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210131/1daef75319998ec8234c15de00c07bae.jpg) (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/a/ad/IEC4PinSwitchRear.jpg/360px-IEC4PinSwitchRear.jpg)
Scott
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Heck I just leave exposed main power on terminal boards
BTW that looks exactly like the switches I just got. Not really happy since I've got to do all my own wiring in of the fuse. The previous ones I had ordered had it all internal and you just hooked up your 3 wires and it had EMI filtering.
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A big old roll of electrical tape will save you a lot of effort. That's what it's designed to do after all.
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Even betterer, put your jar of nail polish snugly inside your old roll of electrical tape, make sure nothing breaks :scared