The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: javeryh on December 03, 2020, 02:33:07 pm
-
I think I'm missing something obvious... I am trying to apply a polycarbonite CPO and I can't figure out a surefire way to make sure it is perfectly lined up where I want it to go. The art is larger than the panel by about 1" all the way around but the adhesive backing to the art is slightly larger and not centered/square so I do not have a great reference point. I have buttons and the joystick centers labeled on the artwork - should I just be punching holes and trying to line it up to the CP that way? I'm trying to be as exact as possible here because if I'm of it's going to look weird.
-
I usually do what you mentioned. I poke small holes and line it up that way.
If the holes in the CPO haven't already been drilled then I use clamps to hold down the cpo and then use a whack of an 1/8" punch in the center of each joystick or button space to use as a drill guide in the wood.
If the holes are drilled already then I try to clamp the art where it should go and then slightly press on the surface to make sure the holes look lined up, hold it up to the light, etc. When I'm pretty sure it's lined up, I flip the cpo, use a drill/spade bit the size of the hole, lined up in the hole to create a tiny pinprick in the cpo buttons and joystick holes, dead in the center of each. Then I flip it over to make sure it looks dead center still, and make adjustments from there.
Oh and a few tips: use a plastic bondo scraper or vinyl applier, working from the center out to get out air bubbles. Work slowly. If there is an air bubble you absolutely can't clear, use an exact with a fresh blade to pop the air bubble by making a very small cut. Long term you won't notice the tiny cut vs an air bubble. If you have to wrap around edges, triangle cut at the edges of the panel so that there won't be a lot of material overlap. Finally, I usually use a few staples or tacks on the back to keep the cpo firmly in place while the glue sets and so that the stuff never peels up in the future.
-
I usually do what you mentioned. I poke small holes and line it up that way.
If the holes in the CPO haven't already been drilled then I use clamps to hold down the cpo and then use a whack of an 1/8" punch in the center of each joystick or button space to use as a drill guide in the wood.
If the holes are drilled already then I try to clamp the art where it should go and then slightly press on the surface to make sure the holes look lined up, hold it up to the light, etc. When I'm pretty sure it's lined up, I flip the cpo, use a drill/spade bit the size of the hole, lined up in the hole to create a tiny pinprick in the cpo buttons and joystick holes, dead in the center of each. Then I flip it over to make sure it looks dead center still, and make adjustments from there.
Oh and a few tips: use a plastic bondo scraper or vinyl applier, working from the center out to get out air bubbles. Work slowly. If there is an air bubble you absolutely can't clear, use an exact with a fresh blade to pop the air bubble by making a very small cut. Long term you won't notice the tiny cut vs an air bubble. If you have to wrap around edges, triangle cut at the edges of the panel so that there won't be a lot of material overlap. Finally, I usually use a few staples or tacks on the back to keep the cpo firmly in place while the glue sets and so that the stuff never peels up in the future.
Thanks. The holes are not drilled - going to drill after the art is applied so buttons will line up exactly with the art. I figured the hole punch method was the way to go even though it seems so imprecise to me. This isn't my first time but my stupid brain couldn't figure out if there was a better/easier method. I'm also feeling really lazy these days...