Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Driving & Racing Cabinets => Topic started by: nipsmg on May 20, 2020, 09:55:39 am
-
So -- this should not be this difficult. I've removed the bolts and nuts to loosen the steering assembly, but I can't get the assembly out of the cabinet because the hex bolt on the weight (flywheel?) on the front is locked up, solid. I've tried eveyrthing and I can't move it. I was hoping to try to slide the belt on while the assembly is in place but I can't get it onto the top gear because it's too tight. I believe there is a tensioning bolt on the bottom but i can't really see it the way it's currently in the cabinet.
Does anyone have any suggestions on (A) how to get that off or B) change the belt without taking the steering assembly out of the machine?
Thanks.
-
And... I figured it out. There is a bracket holding the motor to the frame.. if you loosen the tensioning rod and all 4 nuts you can move the bracket, put on the belt, then tighten the bracket using the tensioning rod and re-tighten all 4 nuts.
Replaced the belt and all 4 pots (steering, gas, brake, and clutch) and booted it back up.. steering wheel turned all the way right then all the way left, no calibration errors, calibrated all pedals and it all worked including active steering! It’s WAY more fun with active steering.
Now to recap the NT-2701 to hopefully fix the brightness / width issues. :(
-
Finally just saw this today!
Had I known you hadn't pulled yours apart yet I could have helped.
Needed to replace the motor on mine (every winding was ripped off the commutator!) so I know what you were looking at.
I need to check this board more often I suppose.
Glad you got yours working.
Now if I could figure out why my SF Rush is playing blind after we moved it upstairs...
-
Because the NeoTec monitors are finicky as hell? :)
I got fed up with mine an replaced it with a 27" LCD gaming monitor and a GBS-8200. While I lost some vertical size, I feel like it's still worth it. Med Res / High Res arcade games don't suffer from the same "authenticity" loss as std res games when played on a LCD (in my opinion). Scanlines just aren't as important for the picture.
I've got a 25" K7000 in my main MAME cabinet and I'll keep that thing alive until it's impossible to do so going forward.
-
Because the NeoTec monitors are finicky as hell? :)
I got fed up with mine an replaced it with a 27" LCD gaming monitor and a GBS-8200. While I lost some vertical size, I feel like it's still worth it. Med Res / High Res arcade games don't suffer from the same "authenticity" loss as std res games when played on a LCD (in my opinion). Scanlines just aren't as important for the picture.
I've got a 25" K7000 in my main MAME cabinet and I'll keep that thing alive until it's impossible to do so going forward.
Are the NeoTecs worse than the Sharp Image that resides in mine?! :lol
-
haha oh no.. I have no idea.
I have the cap kit and the flyback for this 2701. But there are like 1,232,323,143,253,2324^4823 caps on the boards.. the K7000 is so much easier to recap.
I keep saying I'm going to tackle it today.. then I push it off to another day. It's supposed to rain tomorrow -- I'll probably do it then.