Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Fonkybeachbum on April 11, 2020, 06:38:31 pm
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Hello, I'm wiring my on off switch on the back of my bartop like so-
https://imgur.com/dz8ij1Y (https://imgur.com/dz8ij1Y)
I want to know if 1) Will a 5A 250V fuse work as the fuse? I'll have a monitor which is 1.5A, a Pi which is .3A and an LED light strip for the marquee. If not, what Amp fuse should I use?
2) I bought some fully insulated .187 female spade connectors for 14-16 AWG, the power strip has 14 AWG stranded in it that I plan on wiring to the switch. Are these cool to use?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-pcs-16-14-AWG-NYLON-QUICK-DISCONNECT-FEMALE-187-3-16-CONNECTOR-INSULATED/382674079776?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-pcs-16-14-AWG-NYLON-QUICK-DISCONNECT-FEMALE-187-3-16-CONNECTOR-INSULATED/382674079776?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
Thanks for any help. I'd prefer not to burn my house down or electrocute myself or my family. Much appreciated.
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1) Will a 5A 250V fuse work as the fuse? I'll have a monitor which is 1.5A, a Pi which is .3A and an LED light strip for the marquee. If not, what Amp fuse should I use?
To answer that, we'll need to know some details about your LED light strip.
- Specs? Link? Type of LEDs? (single color or RGB) Number of LEDs in your marquee?
With a 5A fuse, you've got about 3A to play with which would allow 150 single color LEDs @20mA each or 50 RGB LEDs @60 mA each. (20mA per channel)
2) I bought some fully insulated .187 female spade connectors for 14-16 AWG, the power strip has 14 AWG stranded in it that I plan on wiring to the switch. Are these cool to use?
Yes.
As always when dealing with mains power, make sure that you have both a solid mechanical connection (twist test) and a good electrical connection. (<2 ohms)
Scott
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Thanks!
"As always when dealing with mains power, make sure that you have both a solid mechanical connection (twist test) and a good electrical connection. (<2 ohms)"
Got it on the twist test. As far as testing electrical connection on this circuit, I'm assuming this is done with a multimeter? I'm also assuming I would check between where the main power would connect to my mounted switch to one of the outlets on the power strip to make sure there's no short? Thanks again for help?
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As far as testing electrical connection on this circuit, I'm assuming this is done with a multimeter?
Yes. Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms) and measure with no power applied -- unless you want to fry your meter. >:D
I'm also assuming I would check between where the main power would connect to my mounted switch to one of the outlets on the power strip to make sure there's no short? Thanks again for help?
Tests before power is applied:
Verify the Hot, Neutral, and Ground connections using a multimeter to test the resistance from the (unplugged) power plug that plugs into the wall outlet to the power supply connection/power strip. (<2 ohms is good)
(http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/a/ad/IEC4PinSwitchRear.jpg/360px-IEC4PinSwitchRear.jpg) (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/b/b7/IEC4PinSwitchWiring.jpg/630px-IEC4PinSwitchWiring.jpg)
Initial power test:
Use an outlet tester on the wall outlet to ensure it is properly wired.
Use the tester on the power strip inside your cab before plugging anything else into the power strip.
(http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/8/82/Outlet_Tester.jpg)
More details: http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Wiring#4-Tab_Switch (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Wiring#4-Tab_Switch).
Scott
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Great. Thanks a lot! Will do!