Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Everything Else => Topic started by: nitrogen_widget on October 28, 2019, 01:55:47 pm
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All parts printed or acquired.
Moving 3D printer to new home so I can use dining room table to start building hopefully this week.
Going with a roughly 3ftx5ft sized machine so I can work with 2x4 project panels.
Just the going with the spindle for now but laser burner will come soon enough.
I’ll post some pics once I get all the brims and strings off some of the printed parts.
I had some serious stringing issues in the beginning with pet-g.
Some pieces look like fuzzy catapiller’s.
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Looking forward to seeing how it turns out for you. ;D
Going with a roughly 3ftx5ft sized machine
I'm guessing you already planned for mid-span supports on the 5' axis, right?
https://www.v1engineering.com/specifications/ (https://www.v1engineering.com/specifications/)
All axis can be any length you prefer, anything over 3 1/2′ (1M) would require small mid-span supports to increase rigidity
Scott
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Already printed a couple of midspan supports.
Looking forward to seeing how it turns out for you. ;D
Going with a roughly 3ftx5ft sized machine
I'm guessing you already planned for mid-span supports on the 5' axis, right?
https://www.v1engineering.com/specifications/ (https://www.v1engineering.com/specifications/)
All axis can be any length you prefer, anything over 3 1/2′ (1M) would require small mid-span supports to increase rigidity
Scott
Yes. I have printed up some midspan supports. 👌
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Please take pics.... been wanting to do a diy since forever.
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I have a thread on the V1 site but i'll post more pics here because they have seen it 100 times over there.
I have the ramps 1.4 controller kit with lcd. not a fan of the knob navigation but also not a fan of dropping $100+ for a control board when the $30 unit will do the job just fine.
going to find a case to print for it.
Also, FYI if you plan to print these parts up, switch to a 1 or 1.2 mm nozzle.
Once I did that it cut my print times in half and they came out beautifully.
Except the top layer.
It was kinda rough until I increased it.
but it is cosmetic.
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I have a thread on the V1 site
Found it. ;D
https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/new-24-x-36-build-wny/ (https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/new-24-x-36-build-wny/)
You weren't kidding in the OP when you mentioned "serious stringing" when you started. :o
That looks like something from Shelob's lair. :lol
(https://www.v1engineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/7ED7883A-35AC-48B8-82E2-3F4A48B55A4B.jpeg)
Also amused by Barry's response to "100mm belt" in the other thread. :duckhunt
Scott
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I have to shave them with an exacto knife then sand them smooth with a dremel.
I learned about retraction settings the day I woke up and saw that.
i'll save the 10mm for the full sheet low rider. ;)
3d printer to make CNC parts to make low rider parts....
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how time flies.
had too much going and knew if I put this together i'd get nothing I needed to get done, done.
well it's cold outside now and I spent 4 hrs over the weekend learning why the cheap laser engraver someone gave me won't burn nice pictures to wood using grbl .8 and why I really need grbl 1.1 why that won't work on a controller board made for .8 and learned how to flash multiple versions to an Arduino nano.
I then played the pre-patch for WOW 5 hrs and realized WTF am I doing?
I have some down time now that it's cold out.
why am I not putting my CNC together?
i mean jeez, they already came up with a newer version of the MPCNC.
but I already have everything for the previous version so I will still build that.
so...here I am.
staged it on lunch to start work on it tonight.
Will update thread as i make progress.
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putting this together and realized the grey corner pieces in the above pic are just too stringy and messy to use.
So I need to reprint cleaner pieces.
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You want to be careful with the fumes your 3D printer emits.
Are you using OctoPi? with your printer?
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just received my roll of wire sleeve.
so I can start wiring up the steppers.
Have to install the belts and program the arduino connected to the ramps 1.4 board.
My board came with the "wrong" stepper drivers so i have the better ones on order.
the ones i have use 1/16th stepping while the one's the software is expecting use 1/32.
its a resolution thing I guess.
i still need to print an enclosure for the display.
I have the controller enclosure done.
had ordered heat sinks for the rectifiers but they were too big.
my enclosure has a built in fan so hopefully it will be fine.
fumes are not really an issue with the 3d printer.
ABS sometimes smells a little but my whole downstairs where i have the printer is an open floor plan and I have 3 ceiling fans.
i put more smoke in the air trying to light a fire in the wood stove when the chimney is too cold to create a draft.
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Looking good!
I built one a few years back. The MPCNC is really accurate, so I think you will like the effort you are putting in.
Mine is currently out of commission - I printed in dense ABS for strength, still had a few parts crack over time. (One base "foot" and the z-axis cradle thing) It doesn't hurt to print a spare set of a few of the more critical parts. I also had some sound issues. I used a DeWalt trim router, which turned out to be pretty loud. Neighbor 3 houses down was complaining it was making her nauseous. I don't know if I truly believe her, but I try not to piss off my neighbors too much. I might just foot the cash for a water cooled CNC spindle, although that adds weight and I am not looking to reduce the size of mine...
FYI - you might want to look at the best way to treat your conduit. Mine rusted out on me, even after keeping it lubricated. Lubrication also made sawdust stick to it. I might be just sanding and enamel painting the sucker, but I heard others had luck with waxing their conduit.
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I have all the parts to put one together, but I haven’t done it yet, mainly because of space.
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:lol Appreciate the consistency that after coining the phrase, you are not willing to eat MDF sandwiches either.
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:lol Appreciate the consistency that after coining the phrase, you are not willing to eat MDF sandwiches either.
Hahahaha.... yeah, the wife wouldn’t like it very much.
Maybe I’ll donate the parts to a local BYOACER who wants to follow through
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Looking good!
I built one a few years back. The MPCNC is really accurate, so I think you will like the effort you are putting in.
Mine is currently out of commission - I printed in dense ABS for strength, still had a few parts crack over time. (One base "foot" and the z-axis cradle thing) It doesn't hurt to print a spare set of a few of the more critical parts. I also had some sound issues. I used a DeWalt trim router, which turned out to be pretty loud. Neighbor 3 houses down was complaining it was making her nauseous. I don't know if I truly believe her, but I try not to piss off my neighbors too much. I might just foot the cash for a water cooled CNC spindle, although that adds weight and I am not looking to reduce the size of mine...
FYI - you might want to look at the best way to treat your conduit. Mine rusted out on me, even after keeping it lubricated. Lubrication also made sawdust stick to it. I might be just sanding and enamel painting the sucker, but I heard others had luck with waxing their conduit.
that stuff isn't supposed to rust I thought.
I did take some sand paper to it though.
my house is old and the walls are thick. I have the dewalt also.
i printed it out of PET-G and PLA though if I make the new smaller Primo for just for aluminum i'll look at using Nylon.
I managed to configure marlin for my display and get it installed.
I got the Z (tool mount) to move.
Waiting on wire loom and connectors so i can connect the stepper motors in series.
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I have all the parts to put one together, but I haven’t done it yet, mainly because of space.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I still don't have the space. :laugh:
well I do.
I just need to move all the crap out of the way so i can set it up in my basement.
I'm going to have a lot of room in my basement once i finish throwing stuff away down there.
currently on box #2 of old random PC parts from the early 90's.
then I need to buy some shower curtains to hang around it.
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that stuff isn't supposed to rust I thought.
I did take some sand paper to it though.
my house is old and the walls are thick. I have the dewalt also.
i printed it out of PET-G and PLA though if I make the new smaller Primo for just for aluminum i'll look at using Nylon.
I managed to configure marlin for my display and get it installed.
I got the Z (tool mount) to move.
Waiting on wire loom and connectors so i can connect the stepper motors in series.
Well, It might be the conduit I bought is cheap beyond belief. It might also be that it is in my garage. I have a tuck under garage, so it stays temperate, but in hot humid weather the minute I open my garage door, everything metal turns into the equivalent of the outside of a coke can. Coated in condensation.
The Dewalt is loud, but very tough and reliable. I made a point to buy some nice mill bits and it cuts through solid oak pretty well. Makes for some nice solid oak carved gifts.
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Well, It might be the conduit I bought is cheap beyond belief. It might also be that it is in my garage. I have a tuck under garage, so it stays temperate, but in hot humid weather the minute I open my garage door, everything metal turns into the equivalent of the outside of a coke can. Coated in condensation.
The Dewalt is loud, but very tough and reliable. I made a point to buy some nice mill bits and it cuts through solid oak pretty well. Makes for some nice solid oak carved gifts.
my tubing is galvanized.
so should be ok.
I hope.
i have a few ideas on what i think i'll use the MPCNC for but i expect it will be like my 3d printer.
I had no real use for it, just wanted one and once i got it and learned to use it...i found all kinds of uses for it.
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Evan galvanized stuff rusts these days because the coating isn't thick enough. A coat of paint wouldn't hurt.
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Paint on Galvanize leads to adhesion problems, Best to either strip it off completly with a sandblaster and start over, or use an automotive grade etch primer.
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A coat of paint wouldn't hurt.
Experienced posters on the MPCNC forums warn that paint is a non-starter for this application.
Ryan (creator of the MPCNC) used car wax.
https://forum.v1engineering.com/t/new-mpcnc-for-2020-primo/16891/1060 (https://forum.v1engineering.com/t/new-mpcnc-for-2020-primo/16891/1060)
I put some old car wax I had laying around on it (with steel wool to get a shiny finish). That seems to have kept rust away so far. The parts I did not wax have tiny speck of surface rust.
Related thread: https://forum.v1engineering.com/t/tube-prepping/21103 (https://forum.v1engineering.com/t/tube-prepping/21103)
A little carnuba-based paste wax just to give it a moisture barrier. Any paint you give it will get worn off almost immediately. The point loads between the bearings and the rails are immense. In fact, I’m sure it’ll wear off/squeeze out any wax you put on as well, but there’s no getting around that. You want to protect the other 99% of the rail.
silica free paste wax. The silica will mess up your woodworking projects.
There are also some recommendations for "spray garage door lithium grease" and "white lithium grease (spray on)".
Scott
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Lithium would probably be the best choice then.... it's the "cleanest" of the greases and wd40 sells it in a spray can so if it gets clogged with sawdust it'd be easy to wipe off and re-apply.
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this is just odd to me.
I'm using a piece of conduit i had in my basement for over a yr and it has no rust on it.
I will say the surface was rougher than the other pieces but i just took a sheet of sand paper to it to smooth it a little.
when it's done and I get it in the basement i'll see what I have.
honestly straight wd-40 and steel wool has been my favorite rust removal/anti-rust coating for decades.
I have everything i need.
depending on kids i should be able to get the steppers wired up in series this weekend.
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I thought i had everything i needed.
I did not have enough wire for the steppers.
Ordered pre-made wires from V1 so i didn't have to cut and slice too much.
will be here tues or wed.
but, it moved on both axis just fine. :)
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I will be interested to know what CAD/CAM software you end up using and how you are getting along with it.
I just bought a $140 cnc engraver to see how bad the learning curve is on the free/open source stuff.
I learned enough V-Carve at a shop-bot seminar to do most of what I would want with wood, but it's expensive and limited to 2.5D.
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I will be interested to know what CAD/CAM software you end up using and how you are getting along with it.
I just bought a $140 cnc engraver to see how bad the learning curve is on the free/open source stuff.
I learned enough V-Carve at a shop-bot seminar to do most of what I would want with wood, but it's expensive and limited to 2.5D.
no idea yet.
I have CNC.js installed on a thin client i got off ebay that i installed linux on in server mode.
Also have estlecam (sp>) installed.
what machine did you get?
my ramps 1.4 board turned out to be bad.
or i somehow fried every stepper motor on it in a day.
every thing moved but then all the steppers would just start clunking and the stepper heat sinks got hot about 20 seconds after it stopped moving.
then they only showed .4v at the steppers and adjusting the pots did nothing even though i set them at .7v
after rebooting everything they showed 1.6v and again wouldn't adjust.
sooo....i happened to have an SKR 1.3 board with touch screen i was going to use in a Mono price mini delta i bought cheap after someone bricked the board trying to update firmware.
took a few hours but i got the software installed and the touch screen updated for CNC, plugged in the stepper wires without changing a thing and everything moved like it should with no issues or weirdness.
I can tell just by looking at the board it's built better.
so, after dinner tonight i'll start making the patch wires and wiring it up.
printing a new case for the skr and display now.