Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: markiej on September 05, 2019, 09:18:51 pm
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I'm picking up a router with a 1/4" shank for my build (a decent ryobi, not a great one and not sure if I'll use it after this) - I've searched this forum and ended up more confused. I'm famous for mis-reading, buying something slightly wrong, and putting unnecessary miles on my 88 Hyundai Excel. Aaaaaaaanyhow. So many builds feature similar steps that maybe there's any easy answer out there somewhere?
I'm using 3/4" MDF for everything
- T-molding
- gouging out the space for joysticks and a trackball on the underside of the control deck
- fine-cutting the second side-panel using the first panel as a guide
- bevel the screen frame
- (don't know if this is a router thing or not, but) but cleaning up jaggy cuts?
- anything else a router can do best that I've not thought of?
Thanks very much in advance!
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Nobody ever listens to me, but go find a woodworking class somewhere or find a woodworker to learn basic router safety. Learn how to use the thing properly before you dive into an arcade build.
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That's the plan. It's the only took I have no experience with.
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Is the question which bits are needed to accomplish each task, or how-tos? Here are the bits, at least as I use them. Most will come in a standard set other than the slotting cutter.
- T-molding Slotting cutter
- gouging out the space for joysticks and a trackball on the underside of the control deck Mortising bit
- fine-cutting the second side-panel using the first panel as a guide Flush Tim Bit
- bevel the screen frame Roundover or sometimes campher bits
- (don't know if this is a router thing or not, but) but cleaning up jaggy cuts? Flush trim bit. Use another piece of wood as a guide. Maybe you can freehand with mortising bit, but a router is often too powerful to make it better.
- anything else a router can do best that I've not thought of?
You can bullnose a piece of wood, which means make the end rounded on both sides. Some marquees use bullnoses on the top piece of wood.
You can also mortise furring boards into the side panels to make them set-in and extra durable. (Didn't you just do that, Mike?)
You can cut slots into wood, similar to t moulding, but wider. For example, if you want to have a slot for glass or pvc to insert into wood for the bezel or marquee. It all depends on your design.
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I'll lean on the more experienced woodworkers to chime in here, but I regret going cheap on my router. I also bought a Ryobi, and I wish I would have put more money into the tool. I use it the most easily, and it is the most versatile. I really, really wish I had bought one with a 1/2" collet. There are plenty of bits that I wish I could use but can't because they are only available in 1/2" shank. You can always go down in collet size, but you can't go up......something to consider.
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I'll lean on the more experienced woodworkers to chime in here, but I regret going cheap on my router. I also bought a Ryobi, and I wish I would have put more money into the tool. I use it the most easily, and it is the most versatile. I really, really wish I had bought one with a 1/2" collet. There are plenty of bits that I wish I could use but can't because they are only available in 1/2" shank. You can always go down in collet size, but you can't go up......something to consider.
I completely understand! I have a lot of history with those kinds of regrets, but I look at this way, for everything I wish I had spent more on, there are two things I'm glad I didn't spend more on (because it's either perfectly fine, or I never use it). I'm just cautious when I'm not sure how much I'm going to use it after this. It was a tough call on the router, because I do hear that people kind of fall in love with them :).
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Is the question which bits are needed to accomplish each task, or how-tos? Here are the bits, at least as I use them
Thanks so much for this - so many great new vocab words. I've tracked most of the how-to's so far - and more importantly, how NOT to (mostly for safety, some for success).
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I'm famous for mis-reading, buying something slightly wrong, and putting unnecessary miles on my 88 Hyundai Excel.
My first car was an '89 Excel. I miss that car.
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If you can get a router with 1/2" collet - go that way.. They support 1/4" bits, but not the other way around.
1/4" bits are not strong enough for larger work and there are fewer options. The routers are also lower power too...
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Take the Ryobi back and get a router that can take a 1/2 inch collet. You won't regret it.
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I wouldn't be ashamed of that Ryobi, It is a good entry level cutter, And you will most likely outgrow it and wind up with multiple machines anyway after a few miles (I got 4) But each one is for a different cut/bit and specific purpose not just one do all machine, A table is a upgrade for it but not necessary out of the gate as saw boards work just fine for most cuts....As for what it can do, go back where you got it, and look at the bits, on the packages you can see what each bit actually does and suddenly you get a brainstorm of ideas for a really cool build.
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I had a Ryobi router, it was ok while it lasted but I use routers a lot and it eventually burned out. ¼” inch bits are ok for light work but I always prefer to use ½” inch bits whenever possible. I feel more confident using them especially with thicker timbers and deeper cuts. My current router is an AEG ½”. My favourite ever router was a small Hitachi (I burned that out too ;D).
Mike's advice to have someone teach you the basics of using a router is sound.