Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: LTC on August 26, 2019, 12:17:15 pm
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Hey everyone
This is my first attempt to build anything from scratch.
Earlier this year I put together a bartop from a cheap E-Bay MDF kit and a raspberry pi I had laying around. It came out ok, but I am not happy with the screen size for the vertical games and my plan was to build or convert a full size vertical cab with a 60-1 Jamma. Also since I built the bartop, we bought a slightly bigger house with a dedicated game room. Anyway, about 2 months ago, I was at a bar that had a couple of pinball machines, and I caught the bug and decided to build a Virtual Pin first (Something I always wanted to do but never had the room, or the confidence in my skill level).
First thing I did was get the PC side sorted, so I got a Dell with an i7 CPU, GTX1050ti Graphics Card, an SSD Drive and a 40' TV, and started playing with the software and adding tables. Once I got that mostly working, it was time to move on to the dreaded part of the cabinet construction. I did not like working with MDF, so went to Home Depot and got the smoothest 3/4" plywood they had, some saw blades, saw guide and a Kreg jig, also some saw horses, clamps and a sander from Harbor Freight. Got it all home and started cutting. It has been slow going as it is way too hot outside and the free time I have is limited. At least the rain has stayed away for the last week.
Day one, side panels. They came out ok and with a little sanding they were are exactly the same.
(https://i.imgur.com/xVNyHwm.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/FwZYogC.jpg?1)
Went ahead and ordered some parts from Twisted Quarter. Stuff got here a couple of days later and cutting resumed
Front panel
(https://i.imgur.com/SPoLdLw.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/gtzEI56.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/shGBwRI.jpg?1)
Pretty happy with the way it turned out. I may change the "Launch" button to a little larger diameter one.
Trying out the Kreg jig.
(https://i.imgur.com/E4EkRS1.jpg?1)
:cheers: This thing is awsome
Assembly
(https://i.imgur.com/XRwsYRp.jpg?1)
This is where I am now.
(https://i.imgur.com/1QY6yvA.jpg?1)
My plan is to get everything assembled and then loosen up the screws a bit and get some wood glue between the joints and tighten it all back together. Does that sound like a good idea?
My 4 1/2 inch holesaw got here yesterday, so I will be getting the fan holes drilled soon. I am thinking of going with a 1/2" plywood for the cabinet floor to save a little bit of weight.
I still need to get the backglass monitor before I start building the top box. I have been testing with a 24" i had laying around, but it is way too small, so going with 27" or 32" (may be overkill?).
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Looks to me like your off to a GREAT start.. Enjoy the process.. :-)
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Looks like a good start.
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Great start. I love these types of builds.
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Take it apart and glue it up right, the screws are just place holders while the glue cures. That's where your strenght and stability will come from.
Also you might consider cutting some small notches where you leg bolts are gonna go, befor you put it back together, otherwise good luck putting a drillbit through those corners.
Have fun you got a long way to go brother, it's like a classic car, theres always something to improve and add.
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Take it apart and glue it up right, the screws are just place holders while the glue cures. That's where your strenght and stability will come from.
Yup, definitely going to glue it.
Also you might consider cutting some small notches where you leg bolts are gonna go, befor you put it back together, otherwise good luck putting a drillbit through those corners.
Didn't think of that. I'll have to practice my notch cutting jig saw skills on some scrap first.
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Not much done this week, but I did get the fan holes cut in.
Also picked up my backglass monitor, so I can start work on the back box.
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Lovely craftsmanship!!
Curious about the 3 fan holes - I see a lot of cabinets (pin and arcade) with multiple fans. My sense is that, as long as you have "a" fan at the top, and at least some sort of vent toward the bottom to let in air to replace the warm air, you should be ok? Is there some sort of math involved?
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Is that a Ford Probe?
Nice cuts so far, would love to build one of these down the line.
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Lovely craftsmanship!!
Curious about the 3 fan holes - I see a lot of cabinets (pin and arcade) with multiple fans. My sense is that, as long as you have "a" fan at the top, and at least some sort of vent toward the bottom to let in air to replace the warm air, you should be ok? Is there some sort of math involved?
Honestly, I just went with 3 because that's what I see on most VPin builds out there. The PC will be putting out a bunch of heat, not to mention 3 monitors (40", 27", 19"), so want to move all of that hot air out.
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Is that a Ford Probe?
No, it's a 93 Firebird Formula
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Honestly, I just went with 3 because that's what I see on most VPin builds out there. The PC will be putting out a bunch of heat, not to mention 3 monitors (40", 27", 19"), so want to move all of that hot air out.
Ah ok... I was picturing the the backglass box as a mostly separate enclosure, requiring its own fan(s)... is there also going to be a vent of somekind on the bottom? Thanks for answering!
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I dig it. :cheers:
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Honestly, I just went with 3 because that's what I see on most VPin builds out there. The PC will be putting out a bunch of heat, not to mention 3 monitors (40", 27", 19"), so want to move all of that hot air out.
Ah ok... I was picturing the the backglass box as a mostly separate enclosure, requiring its own fan(s)... is there also going to be a vent of somekind on the bottom? Thanks for answering!
They are separate, but there will be an opening with the third monitor descending in to the main cabinet. Yes, I will vent the cab from the buttom. Not sure if I am doing intake fans, or just cut in an opening with a filter to keep the dust out.
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Heat rises, Draw from bottom and blow out the top, fans that size are going to be quite noticeable in terms of noise.
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Nah, bigger fans can turn slower and move plenty of air.
Those look like 120mm holes probably? You can get very, very quiet 120mm fans that will keep all the hot air from accumulating in that cabinet.
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Yes, they are 120mm fans. I have had no issues with noise with them in PC builds. I can always add a fan controller to regulate the speed.
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^yup, big fans rule. Slower rpm while big blades push more air.
Also a great idea to control the fan speed. Might have to install a simple thermometer to check the internal heating after a while of playing and adjust the speed/noise ratio accordingly.
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So the first screw up I caught so far.
Cut the power block in too low. Didn't catch it until I started lining up the legs to mark where to notch the panels.
Oh well. Cut out a patch piece and glued it in. Once it's all patched up and with the leg in place, it should just fine.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379093;image)
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This week's progress:
A lot of attempts at making notches for the leg bolts (on scrap plywood). Finally settled on my Milwaukee M12 "ripsaw" and finished off with the Dremel to smooth things out.
Now it stands all on it's own, like a newborn fawn on it's unsteady legs (finger tightened the bolts, they will be coming off again very soon)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379150;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379151;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379152;image)
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Had some free time in the last couple of days. Made a monitor mount and installed support brackets. I think the position works. The back of the mount will be on a "hinge" to allow the monitor to swing up for cabinet access, like a real pinball playfield (hopefully)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379206;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379205;image)
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Finished up the playfield monitor mount this weekend. A bit of redneck engineering on the rear pivot. A bit of scrap 1/2" EMT pipe and 3 EMT straps. A pair of $4 flanged bearings and $3 closet rod brackets from Ace hardware. Just need to get a pair of lid support hinges to keep the monitor in position when needed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379267;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379266;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379268;image)
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Nice! Clever work on the hinge.
I dig it. You are going to be done way before I am. :applaud:
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Nice! Clever work on the hinge.
I dig it. You are going to be done way before I am. :applaud:
That may happen, but what you're building is way cooler and miles ahead of my skill level.
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I've been working a lot the last three weeks so not much time to work on this. The overtime does help to fund the project ;D
I ordered the Zebsboards Plunger V3 Kit and a 14" 1280x390 monitor for the DMD display.
I did find a couple of hours today to get some work done. Back to a double shift tomorrow.
Installed one of the lift supports for the playfield monitor. Was not paying any attention to the packaging when I grabbed the supports and didn't see that they are handed :banghead:. I'll have to swap one out for a left hand one and get the other side done.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379591;image)
Also started on the backbox.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379592;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379593;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379594;image)
Not bad for a couple of hours of work. Speaker/DMD panel and backbox monitor mount next.
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Got more work done on the back box.
Back panel with fan holes drilled out
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379672;image)
Monitor mount
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379671;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379673;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379674;image)
Bolted back together
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379675;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379676;image)
I was hoping to have the lower monitor/speaker panel done as well, but I ran out of wood.
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Got the 3rd monitor mounted. Getting close now.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379814;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379813;image)
Still need to cut out the speaker holes.
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Not much done lately, but had some time over the weekend.
Finally speakers in the speaker panel
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380167;image)
Built the frame for the floor panel and got the sub and fans mounted
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380168;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380169;image)
I'm close to getting started on patching and painting. Good time for it now that the humidity and heat are gone. Just need to figure out a mount for the lockdown bar and drill the flipper button holes.
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Right on.
Your backbox is proportional to itself - that looks right to me. Working around the limits of a 16:9 backglass monitor, this is in my opinion the best result. :applaud:
If you're looking for suggestions... the backbox looks right to me by itself, but when you put it on the main cabinet here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379593;image), I think the backbox looks a little short and the body looks a little tall. A thing that I found helped the visual proportions of the backbox against the table when I ran into something similar was to put the backbox up on a little bit of a neck like a mid-80s Williams had - like a Road Kings or a Pin-Bot. If you haven't permanently attached the backbox to the body, I'd suggest maybe try mocking up a 2" riser or so that is a little wider than your big cord passthrough via, but narrower than the table and the backbox, and see if it looks more right - on mine, the neck kind of hides the backbox being a little short.
I can photoshop up what I mean if you can't picture it. It doesn't look bad to me as is - you might not like the change, or it might not be worth the hassle.
In any case, I like your project. :cheers: It's gonna look great painted.
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Right on.
Your backbox is proportional to itself - that looks right to me. Working around the limits of a 16:9 backglass monitor, this is in my opinion the best result. :applaud:
If you're looking for suggestions... the backbox looks right to me by itself, but when you put it on the main cabinet here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379593;image), I think the backbox looks a little short and the body looks a little tall. A thing that I found helped the visual proportions of the backbox against the table when I ran into something similar was to put the backbox up on a little bit of a neck like a mid-80s Williams had - like a Road Kings or a Pin-Bot. If you haven't permanently attached the backbox to the body, I'd suggest maybe try mocking up a 2" riser or so that is a little wider than your big cord passthrough via, but narrower than the table and the backbox, and see if it looks more right - on mine, the neck kind of hides the backbox being a little short.
Good eye man...You are not wrong 8)
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Very nice - looking forward to seeing it done :) :applaud:
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Right on.
Your backbox is proportional to itself - that looks right to me. Working around the limits of a 16:9 backglass monitor, this is in my opinion the best result. :applaud:
If you're looking for suggestions... the backbox looks right to me by itself, but when you put it on the main cabinet here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379593;image), I think the backbox looks a little short and the body looks a little tall. A thing that I found helped the visual proportions of the backbox against the table when I ran into something similar was to put the backbox up on a little bit of a neck like a mid-80s Williams had - like a Road Kings or a Pin-Bot. If you haven't permanently attached the backbox to the body, I'd suggest maybe try mocking up a 2" riser or so that is a little wider than your big cord passthrough via, but narrower than the table and the backbox, and see if it looks more right - on mine, the neck kind of hides the backbox being a little short.
I can photoshop up what I mean if you can't picture it. It doesn't look bad to me as is - you might not like the change, or it might not be worth the hassle.
In any case, I like your project. :cheers: It's gonna look great painted.
Thank you for the input. I was actually thinking the same thing. I know the cabinet style you're referencing and can definitely mock up a riser. Currently, the backbox is mounted with 2 wing bolts threaded in to inserts from inside the cabinet, so easy to remove. It's built that way for easy transport to the second floor for it's final destination.
My only concern is the ceiling height, as the room has the ceilings that slope down from the center.
Another option to to shave an inch off the bottom of the lower box?
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Putting a new floor in the lower box seems like way too much work to me just to shorten the body a little - I don't think it's that bad. I mean, you *could*, but it looks like more rework than seems justified to me. (You can tweak that perceived shape somewhat with your side art, too.)
I'm getting my sense of proportion by comparing it back and forth to photos of real pins at similar angles - but if it's not going to be sitting next to one upstairs then that side-by-side comparison won't be available when it's done, and it won't be as much of an issue. (Mine would also look more incorrect sitting next to a real pin.)
I'd say you could lower the main cabinet to make neck room by mounting the legs slightly higher, to clear your headroom issue - but the ergonomics of your palms on the lockdown bar and the playfield table height matter much more than a subtle aesthetic tweak does, so it's better to get those at what feel right and to make the rest work.
The sloping ceiling might alter how it looks in situ, too. If it goes all the way up to the roof, it might have a harder time looking short once installed there.
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Putting a new floor in the lower box seems like way too much work to me just to shorten the body a little - I don't think it's that bad. I mean, you *could*, but it looks like more rework than seems justified to me. (You can tweak that perceived shape somewhat with your side art, too.)
I'm getting my sense of proportion by comparing it back and forth to photos of real pins at similar angles - but if it's not going to be sitting next to one upstairs then that side-by-side comparison won't be available when it's done, and it won't be as much of an issue. (Mine would also look more incorrect sitting next to a real pin.)
I'd say you could lower the main cabinet to make neck room by mounting the legs slightly higher, to clear your headroom issue - but the ergonomics of your palms on the lockdown bar and the playfield table height matter much more than a subtle aesthetic tweak does, so it's better to get those at what feel right and to make the rest work.
The sloping ceiling might alter how it looks in situ, too. If it goes all the way up to the roof, it might have a harder time looking short once installed there.
For reference, this is what the room ceiling looks like. The dart board is mounted on the only piece of wall that would support the regulation height. There is a closet door on the other side of the door and the opposite wall has a window with built-in cabinets on each side.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380189;image)
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Ended up having some free time after work, so used it to work on the pin.
First time working with a trim router that I purchased a couple of weeks ago. Mortised in some notches for the lockdown bar mount
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380190;image)
Glued and clamped the back side of the mount
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380191;image)
Test fit in the cab. Used a couple of 8-32 screws to secure the bar to the mount. Will be using winged bolts and threaded inserts for easier removal.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380192;image)
Also drilled and routed the flipper and magna-save button holes. I'm making quick friends with my new trim router :cheers:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380193;image)
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Your lockdown bar mounting is SO much better and simpler than mine.
I'm an idiot. :laugh:
Well done!
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You are certainly not. Your work proves that over and over
Quick update.
No fab work, bur I do have a lot of company coming over starting tomorrow and all through Thanksgiving, so instead of answering a ton of questions on how things will look when I'm done, I just put everything together.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380261;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380262;image)
(http://[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380263])
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380263)
Still to do before filler and primer;
Cut rear doors and figure out what to do for the hinges
Make a filler panel for the space between the backbox and main monitor
Route a notch in the side panels where the glass is going to lay
Make a riser for the backbox??
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I would think a spacer more than a riser given your space requirement, a chunk of 2x6 on its side would only give you 1 1/2" but enough to separate the two and give the aesthetically finished look (IMHO) 8)...And you could just use longer bolts still using your existing T/nuts.
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Yes. What Jennifer said. Slice a 2x6 off a few inches shorter than the playfield cabinet is wide, slip it underneath the backbox, prop it all up carefully, snap a photo and see if it looks better or not. Run a tape measure from the top of the backbox to the ground and see if that still fits in your upstairs room. That'll tell you (and us) if it's even worth contemplating further.
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So here's a mock-up with 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood. Is that a bit better? I think I can make it fit.
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I think it improves the shape. That might just be me - what do you think, Jennifer?
I was curious how it would look with a narrower neck, so I took some crude photoshop to your photo as an experiment to save you the trouble. A narrower neck would look something like this (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=380338;image) for comparison, which is approximately what I was initially imagining.
What really matters is, what do you think? It's for you - don't let me prod you in a direction you aren't inclined to go. (I don't think it's bad looking in any of these variations.)
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Oh yes, I think it distracts the eye just enough to bring it all together, and really liking that smaller pedestal look... Although The stress of gameplay, and weight would be a concern, and would seriously consider some sub structure under that sill plate (or at least some angle iron brackets)...Overall it is a really nice build, with obvious integrity, Incorperating old, new, and conceptual techniques all in one machine.
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Thank you both. I do agree that the narrower spacer looks better and I can easily work up a support system for the rigidity. I will work on that this weekend. I have the rest of the panels cut, just need to get the hinges for the doors and attach the filler panel.
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+1 more who likes the new mock-up. The proportions look a lot better to the eye. Love this thing so far!
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Spacer is made. How's this?
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You nailed it!!!...Now the disassembly, If you want to save some time and work, it is IMO ready for color now that everything fits...Not what you wanted to hear I would imagine but it is far easier now before you start anymore assembly, Baggies work well for this keeping hardware organized, Quality Latex house paint and a fine foam roller is probably the cheaper solution of choices but will give a nice finish if applied in thin multiple coats. (Over a sealer of course)
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Definitely better. :applaud:
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Love it. :D
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Agreed - nice adjustment. :applaud:
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Not what you wanted to hear I would imagine but it is far easier now before you start anymore assembly
Actually, that was always the plan. After months of work, this is what I have today. Sanded all panels down to 220 grit (60, 80, 120, 220). This is what I am left with today
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Are you planning to glue the cabinet body together before paint?
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Yes. I will prime and paint the inside first, leaving bare wood in the contact areas. After that, glue and screw together and finish off the outside.
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Got some of the cabinet internals primed and painted. Stuff no one but me will ever get to see. Also, started body filler and primer on the backbox spacer using the OND painting guide. Starting on the smallest piece first. Also painted the "coin door" carriage bolt heads
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You may as well just start putting that back together, it won't be any harder to paint it...And it has to be killing you to see it like that.
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I'd rather take my time and do it right. I know it's not going to be perfect, but I want it to be presentable. I should have been further along, but the weather has been unseasonably wet here on the weekends.
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I'm having a ---smurfette--- of a time with paint. I have the prep work down. Sanding to 320 grit, 2 coats of high build primer with 600 grit between coats, and final coat of sandable primer hit it with 600 grit wet sand. Nice and smooth outcome. I then tried to roll on some satin black with a foam roller on a small piece of the cab, and the paint bubbled on me pretty bad. So sanded again and prepped the board as before down to 600 grit wet sand. Tried spraying satin black and although the paint went on smooth, the finish came out blotchy, with some flat spots and some glossy spots. At this point I figured I would try gloss black. Picked up a can of gloss, and the sprayer was defective and splattered all over the board :banghead: Back to sanding again.
On the bright side, we got a 3D printer at work so I had to play with it a little. Printed some leaf switch holders for my buttons and test fitted
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381256;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381257;image)
I may have to shave a bit of material off the switch contact surface to get the button a little closer to the contact point
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381258;image)
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What type of black paint? If it bubbled and it didn't self level, you need to reduce it.
Latex = use Floetrol
Oil - I use a little turpentine..
It gives the paint time to level before setting..
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It's latex. The bubbles did not settle fully. I was hoping they would.
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Do a test with this: Floetrol (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Flood-Floetrol-1-qt-Clear-Latex-Paint-Additive-FLD6-04/100198078?keyword=floetrol&semanticToken=d03t00030110_20200205122836669796_2xbq+d03t00030110+%3E++cnn%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+cnr%3A%7B7%3A1%7D+cnd%3A%7B4%3A0%7D+cne%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+cnb%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+cns%3A%7B5%3A0%7D+cnx%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+st%3A%7Bfloetrol%7D%3Ast+oos%3A%7B0%3A1%7D+dln%3A%7B566770%7D+tgr%3A%7BEnriched+Product+Info%7D+qu%3A%7Bfloetrol%7D%3Aqu)
Helps Latex level by extending dry time.. I'm using this on my cab now..
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Only use a few drops of that stuff at a time!
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Only use a few drops of that stuff at a time!
I've gone 5%-10% - have you had an issue? The directions give a good ratio to add...
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Only use a few drops of that stuff at a time!
I've gone 5%-10% - have you had an issue? The directions give a good ratio to add...
Last time I used it the paint really thinned out and took forever to dry. When I dialed it back to a few drops it worked a little better. YMMV
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Finally got the paint on the inside to where I can live with it.
The main cab is now glued and screwed together. I have the first layer of body filler on the outside sanded and the second layer applied. Should be ready for primer tomorrow.(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381759)
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First go around with primer is done. Dry sanded with 600 grit and more Bondo applied where needed.
I swear I have spent more $$$ on primer than the plywood to build the damned thing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381790)
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Do you own a plot across the street?
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Lol, no, my fat ass is getting cremated, but I do like the quiet neighborhood.
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So, I tell my wife not to cremate me... Unless she did it and needs the insurance.
I tell my friends that I don't want to be cremated... And if I am, it means she did it.
Some day, probably soon, this will create a lot of drama.
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So, I tell my wife not to cremate me... Unless she did it and needs the insurance.
I tell my friends that I don't want to be cremated... And if I am, it means she did it.
Some day, probably soon, this will create a lot of drama.
This my friends is how you tell a joke. :cheers:
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Got paint on the front and back panels. Looks pretty good. I will need to go get some more paint to start on the sides. For whatever reason, I can't attach pictures. I get an error that there is a security problem with the attachments?
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Looking good, man!
Re: attachments, that's a known bug with the board. Try resizing your pictures down by like a pixel or so, anything to change the checksum, and they will probably work. I run into it sometimes too. Occasionally I have to tweak a picture twice before it will take it.
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Thank you. I will try to resize the pictures. It's odd, I haven't had the problem before.
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Ok, got the pictures to upload
I'll have to wet-sand before the next coat, but that should't be too bad of an ordeal.
Getting paint in to all the hidden spots no one but me will ever see.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381904;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381905;image)
Front and back panels first coat.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381906;image)
(Sides are still in primer)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381908;image)
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Paint is finished and the main cab is upstairs ready for assembly. On to the backbox.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=381939;image)
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Got the legs on. Installed the buttons and made up the wiring harnesses. No power supply installed yet but I did get a temporary 12VDC power source in to see how the buttons look all lit up. Also modded my blank coin door with some 25c buttons and fake 3D printed return slots.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382038;image)
Found this terminal block in one of my tool boxes. It's probably been in there for 15+ years. It is 24 position and that's exactly what's needed for the Zebsboards analog plunger kit I bought a while back. Got the harnesses wired up to the terminal block.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382039;image)
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Ooh, pretty.
That's lookin good. I dig the modded coin door. :applaud:
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Ooh, pretty.
That's lookin good. I dig the modded coin door. :applaud:
Thank you :cheers:
Got the LED exhaust fans installed in the back. Moving plenty of air and virtually silent doing so. I was going to install the cheapo ebay intake fans in the bottom of the cab, but the bearings are already making some noise, so I just ordered another set of the LED fans on Prime.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382130;image)
Also getting the PC location finalized inside
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382131;image)
and almost ready to get the wiring finished up. I'm just contemplating the wire management method I want to go with.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382132;image)
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Wire management figured out. Found some 1"x1" finger duct laying around (also have some 2"x2" to mout behind the PC to hide the larger wires. I see some projects that leave the wire management as one of the last things to do, but not this guy.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382148;image)
All wires labeled. 1/4" shrink labels printed on my Dymo 5200 label maker. I did hit them with the heat gun after the pictore was taken.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382149;image)
Here it is all buttoned up. The sub is now mounted as well. The printed wiring diagram will get laminated once our office is back up for business again, and I'll attach it where it's sitting right now. I still have 4 more maintenance buttons to install and wire up inside of the cab, so the terminal block will be a little more populated.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382150;image)
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That is crazy nice looking! :applaud: I am terrible at making wiring look good. I always give up.
J_K_M_A_N
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Minor update from yesterday
Installed the "Service Menu" buttons inside the coin door and finished wiring the controls
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382161;image)
Mounted the PC and installed the 2"x2" finger duct
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382162;image)
Extended the Playfield TV controls so that I can move them to just inside the coin door for any adjustments needed. Also, since the TV does not turn on on power restore, soldered leads to the power button that will go to a relay that will pulse on power up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382163;image)
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You are doing nice work :applaud: :applaud:
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That is crazy nice looking! :applaud: I am terrible at making wiring look good. I always give up.
J_K_M_A_N
You are doing nice work :applaud: :applaud:
Thank you guys :cheers:
Installed the lockdown bar and bracket and the side rails. The side rails are 3/4" aluminium angle cut to size and the edges under the lockdown bar shaved to fit snug.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382222;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382223;image)
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Love it! I'm going to do something similar with 3/4" aluminum angle to fake side rails on Shapeshifter. :cheers:
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Very nice!
I highly recommend a shaker motor. Zeb has a good one.
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Thanks. Yes, most likely will do a shaker. Plan is to get this done and playable, and then I will work on the force feedback and lighting devices.
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This will be the last update on the main cab for a while as I am moving on tothe backbox now ;D
Amazon brought the rest of my fans, so got those mounted up. Also got the audio controls mounted inside the coin door and wired up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382304;image)
Made a temporary mount for the power supply out of some scrap plywwod. the final mount will be 3/8" marine board, but the guy I get that stuff from is not taking any civilian orders at this time. The top bourd is 12VDC power supply that can handle up to 10AMPS. Middle board is a 4 position power distribution board, bottom right board is a 2 position power distribution board. These 2 will be replaced by a pair of 8 position distribution boards in the final configuration. the lower left board is the timer relay that pulses a few seconds after power is pllied to turn on the playfield monitor.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382305;image)
And finally, the monitor is installed, as well as the trim piece at the back of the monitor shelf that blocks out the back of the cab.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382307;image)
For the backbox, basically just need to sand, prime and paint, but first I am thinking of routing in a 3/16" space for the glass in front of the backglass monitor to sit in. I'll have to do a couple of practice cuts on some scraps first though.
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Great looking machine :applaud: Nice work on the wiring and connectors too.
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Great looking machine :applaud: Nice work on the wiring and connectors too.
Thank you.
While I'm working on the backbox, I couldn't resist getting a few games in. Love the response of the anolog plunger and I didn't notice any delay on the flippers. More to come.
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Looking awesome ;D :applaud:
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Been really busy at work in the past few weeks, but I have been slowly getting the backbox ready for paint.
Routed in a channel to slide the glass in front of the monitor in to. It will sit in to a pocket at the top of the speaker/DMD panel.
The top of the backbox has a channel cut in to it and will slip on top of the glass to hold it in place.
Also routed a pocket in the DMD mount to sit 3/16" plexi in front of the screen.
One more coat of primer and wet sand before the paint goes on. Hopefully will have some color this weekend.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382843;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382844;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=382845;image)
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Paint done and reassmbly started
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383087;image)
Fitted cardboard to mock up the glass panels
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383088;image)
Assmbled and bolted down to the cab
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383089;image)
Playing a couple of rounds of Cyclone
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383090;image)
Now I need to wire up the 3rd monitor (needed a male connector for the power) and then on to task of changing out all of the B2S files to the 3 screen versions and getting all the DMD games lined up to the 3rd screen. Also have to install the back doors and the panel behind the playfield monitor.
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Damn, that's coming together quick, and looking good. Nice job.
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Damn, that's coming together quick, and looking good. Nice job.
Thanks, but it sure doesn't seem like it's going quick. It'll be a year since I started this on July 4th weekend.'
Got the 3rd monitor powered up and have PinballX and some of the games configured for 3 screens.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383102;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383101;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383098;image)
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Dude, don't go down the pinball x rabbit hole, go ahead and install pinup popper, and start learning that, way more functionality and features, so that you can get more out of the cab than just playing.
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This is looking amazing! When I finish my 4 player cab, I'll be working on a strategy to get a pinball machine some day. You're inspiring me to strongly consider the virtual path. :cheers:
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Dude, don't go down the pinball x rabbit hole, go ahead and install pinup popper, and start learning that, way more functionality and features, so that you can get more out of the cab than just playing.
I tried installing Popper a while back but my AV flagged it as a virus and I didn't want to fight it at that time. I will definitely revisit at some point.
I have Pinup Player running with a couple of tables. Very impressive.
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Well, my sub-woofer quit working. Took apart the volume controller box and found the pot snapped off the board? I know I have been smacking the cab pretty hard fine-tuning the nudge sensor, but I didn't think it was that hard. Oh well, new pot should be here Monday. Some soldering repair work in my near future.
Other then that, I have most of the tables set up for 3 screens and have been enjoying some game play.
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I can assure you its not a virus, and plus you better get ready to disable you AV on that cab it destroys your setup, removes files and blocks certain functions.
When you start getting into the software side, and start hitting bumps, people are going to ask you did you disable your AV.
Also if you want less headaches, updates your OS before you start tweaking and adding too much, then block further updates, windows updates will hose up your setup as well.
Popper is way faster and smoother than X, i've been on it since day 1 no viruses :) ,you will get way more out of your cab with popper than with X to make up for taht year you spent building it.
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Ouch on that potentiometer! That surprises me too, maybe the factory solder joints were iffy in the first place.
Looking great. I really like your setup, that's tasteful and it looks right to me.
Are the big three fan LEDs rgb? If they are, have you considered setting them up as a 3-flasher in DOF? :D
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Ouch on that potentiometer! That surprises me too, maybe the factory solder joints were iffy in the first place.
Not the solder. The little PCB that attaches the pot to the main controller board snapped off :dunno
I have that fixed now, so one less thing to do.
Looking great. I really like your setup, that's tasteful and it looks right to me.
Thank you :cheers:
Are the big three fan LEDs rgb? If they are, have you considered setting them up as a 3-flasher in DOF? :D
No, they are just red LED fans. I have the panel behind the playfield mounted now, so you can't see them anyway. I will mount some RGB flashers to that panel at some point.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383491;image)
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I have been enjoying playing this as it sits. I have many hours of play time put in, but it is time to get back to work. Just got my parts to start the FFB part of the project. The contactor coils are 24vdc, so need to add a power supply and well, as I only have 12vdc in there now.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=384024)
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Nice job. Having never seen a pinball table like this before other than online, does it really work? Does the screen create a satisfactory illusion of depth, etc.? I know it's not a substitute for the real thing but I've seen enough people build these things so it must look great.
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To be honest, the depth is not perfect. Some table are better then others. I also had a budget in mind (well past that threshold now, lol) when I started, so I went with a 1080p monitor instead of a 4K. It still looks great to me when playing and is a ton of fun.
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I made the test rig today. Everything is wired and ready for testing outside of the cab. Only thing I'm missing is the old school USB cable the relay module requires. I'm pretty sure I have some at the office and I need to go by there tomorrow anyway.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=384041)