Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: piscian18 on May 30, 2019, 04:08:49 pm
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Hi new user here and I wasn't sure where to put this, sorry.
I'm finishing up converting a busted Virtua Fighter 3 Arcade Cabinet to Mame/retropi and the last thing I think would be pretty cool is if I could get the coin acceptor pointed at the retropie "select" pin on my usb encoder, but man I can't find anything online about how this might be achieved. Has anyone done this? I can post pictures and wiring on request. I'm gonna wire up the power tonight and verify it lights up but rather feeling around in the dark regarding the wires I just wanted to see if anyones done this knows how it works? Should I give up and buy one of those X-Arcade coin acceptor deals? :o
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Pics of the coin mech and encoder will help us identify your hardware and provide correct advice. ;D
Before you apply power: If you have an electronic coin recognizer, it runs off 12v.
- You'll need a zener diiode to regulate the 12v output line down to 5v so you don't fry your encoder input.
Scott
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Pics of the coin mech and encoder will help us identify your hardware and provide correct advice. ;D
Before you apply power: If you have an electronic coin recognizer, it runs off 12v.
- You'll need a zener diiode to regulate the 12v output line down to 5v so you don't fry your encoder input.
Scott
ok thanks, basically Ive got a dedicated power cord which I can wire seperately then Ive a bundle pins 4-6 that Im assuming I should be able to wire into an encoder no?
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Good news: Those are regular coin mechs, instead of an electronic coin recognizer so your setup will be easier to wire to whichever encoder you're using. ;D
Are you using "Zero Delay", "Xin-Mo", or some other type of gamepad encoder?
Switches
Wire the microswitch on each coin mech to the corresponding encoder input the same way you would wire a button.
- Microswitch is at the bottom of the mech -- your photo shows pink Quick Disconnect (QD) connectors that attach to the microswitches.
- One microswitch wire will be on the Common (COM) tab and the other on the Normally Open (NO) tab.
Lighting
Each of the two original incandescent bulbs drew about 500mA. (1A total)
- That's way too much current draw to power them from your RasPi.
- I presume that the "dedicated power cord" you mentioned is an AC to DC power supply separate from the RasPi.
You can get LED replacement bulbs that draw considerably less current (about 20mA each), generate less heat, and last longer.
General advice
Don't maim for MAME.
- The original wiring looks like it's in great shape.
- Try to keep any mods fully reversable to original.
(i.e. Instead of cutting/stripping the original harness wires, make a custom harness that plugs into the original harness like step 7 here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134781.msg1542677.html#msg1542677).)
Scott
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Hey thanks that worked!
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Glad to assist. :cheers:
Scott