The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: MiteWiseacre on May 26, 2019, 12:03:05 pm
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So I figued it was time to start a thread, would have much sooner (I could have really used a place to solicite feedback) but couldn't upload from my phone so easy..
So the journey begins in Sketchup
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/649c/g0cxwa9g4q36itp6g.jpg)
Then a control panel prototype
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/d8a0/pj650pf4pvy807s6g.jpg)
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/c1bd/3icc3dt5687xvyp6g.jpg)
I believe this was the Sega Layout I found online.. now with some nice Seimitsu sticks and Fusion buttons from Retroactive Arcade
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/8046/6xpwlb99orlj6d26g.jpg)
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Messed around in MAME for some time, mostly figured that out, found the Attract Mode front end.
Picked up an old Dell PC, took the cover off, cut out chunks of metal, trimmed down the fans on my 750ti GFX card and slapped it in.
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/0b84/gtz2a3scr37pzdn6g.jpg)
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/0126/ok4pydl5f65aom16g.jpg)
Now getting MAME running on a CRT television, testing with my 32" toshiba that decided not to sacrifice to this project.
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/82c2/475gc790ca167u46g.jpg)
What I eventually settled on after trying many things, and finding out that even though NVidia says it can run 240p it doesn't mean it's true, was the Extron VSC 150. It's a 480i image but does look pretty darn good on the Wega.
See this thread for my bumbling: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,159697.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,159697.0.html)
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Decasing a CRT is another adventure, managed to ruin one 27" Wega by cracking the control circuit panel, I advise a second set of hands because the boards like to slide right out of these frames when you lift them from the front of the case. Ditched the speakers and built a frame that would allow me to build a cab that will fit through a doorway, want to be sub 28" wide.
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/7539/3usrvger49m4i436g.jpg)
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/243f/7q2g0ximdsezlb36g.jpg)
The happy accident here is that the second Wega I found in the local buy and sell had a way better picture! :applaud:
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Cutting out the sides
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/a8a1/e6vu2hty7clwo516g.jpg)
Went with an inner 2x4 frame, caused perhaps more headaches than benefits. Was slightly out of square and spend a fair bit of time fighting it and trying to right it. If one just build off the perfectly straight MDF I'm sure it would line up much easier, maybe a little weaker? IDK
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/9bcb/3mcu1ud5pm0u4gm6g.jpg)
Test fitting the CRT, had to do some grinding and adjusting when I found out it was about 1/8" too wide :banghead: but got it...
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/0cb6/r46rw7id1lioabo6g.jpg)
Glue up stage, the time when you never have enough clamps or patience.. You may notice I screwed up my bezel because of being a router noob, was able to rebuild that corner with paintable silicon. So I hope that once painted black and covered with glass, the bezel errors won't be visible.
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/9c2b/nmlqo65a65zl30f6g.jpg)
This is basically where I'm at today, I've since this installed all the hinges and a keyboard tray.
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/fce5/5jl37zj839sws7v6g.jpg)
The next step will be more fit and finish, bit of filling. Take it apart and start to prime ;D
Does anyone have an opinion on my speaker holes? I am assuming they will let enough sound pass through as well as the board will resonate well enough to provide decent sound quality.
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Good quality work! Love the monitor.
I have a small suggestion for the speaker holes. I'd cut out the full sized holes and then accentuate them with either a cool speaker cover, some LED lights, or even some mesh wouldn't look out of place. If the question is, do I think enough sound will pass? Yeah, I think it'll be ok, but I think it would be better as a big hole, or maybe with more smaller holes.
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Thanks leapinlew :cheers:
going to dig through my old car stereo speaker covers and see what I got..
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Looking good. I was running a 27" Wega for Vertical Shmups and they are great tubes. Damned heavy tho. How much you fogure this will weigh when done? Moving it will be dun, but then youll be set. The 2x4 may seem excessive and add weight, but as i noted, that tube is damned heavy, a little insurance never hurt anyone. Well maybe their back, but thats what friends are for ;)
Those speaker holes should be changed. Thats a lot of resistance on a speaker. Youre bascally using a diaphragm to force air through those little holes and any backpressure is felt by the tiny cone of the speaker that im sure isnt made for insane amounts of pressure. It will skew the balance of frequencies. It may be a bit louder if loaded right, but that more of a science, and kind of pointless, and frequency dependant. High frequencies will be very muffled.
That auction site has nice little speaker covers for small drivers that look like the grills off a Vewlix, very unobtrusive. If too bland, they make ones with chrome trim too. Theyre cheap. Look pro. On my cab, I just cut holes and put some perforated steel on the backside so it looks kind of factory as opposed to just sticking a piece over the hole and looking kind of thrown together. Speaker grills look best unless you want to try the slots in wood trick Nintendo used, and I suck at it hahah.
I had similar issues with stuff being square etc. At end of the day, the material is only going to be as square as the toold we use. Finding a saw that can stay square and cut reliably is my biggest want. After that, buildng anything out of different woods will be a treat. If i have to buy my material though, I am buying ply next. The MDF dust, and the way it crumbles easier on sharp edges than real wood can be a bit frustrating, and thats before you even go to paint it.
My biggest reservation is that MDF was never made to be in a damp dank basement, garage etc over long periods of time. That ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- swells and goes crap right quick if given the right conditions. I feel like if they had used MDF like we know it today in 1982, Im not so sure how some stuff would hold up. Even that particle board seems better than MDF. And i say that as someone who uses MDF for certain applications, even tho I would prefer ply unless I had to do other.
Keep up the good work. This is gonna look great.
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Thanks for the thoughts, Morton.
Not totally sure, but I think the empty cab is like 200lbs and finished 300+. Built it so one could move it with a dolly from behind, plenty reinforced, but will likely assemble it all in the basement where I can just roll it around on its casters. I'd better listen to the advice I'm getting on the speakers, might have made it a little trickier now with the speaker panel glued to the bezel :embarassed:
Painting now, 3 coats of primer and up to about the same in paint. Using a melamine-finish black furniture paint, turning out pretty nice so far.. kinda wet sands weird, pills up and clogs up the 220 really quickly. Maybe I'm not letting it dry long enough before sanding?
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/6e9c/0howk9q7dmccke66g.jpg)
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/d20b/gygs2aj2am1l47e6g.jpg)
(https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/52bb/upk2wtdybcg0lyt6g.jpg)
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Last summer I redid a bathroom Vanity using that Melamine paint. It was sold as the ultimate product.
Whether due to weather, or what, it was one of the worst products I've used. It showed EVERYTHING as it's quite glossy. It took forever to dry, and even then it was not easy to sand and just gummed up the paper as you noticed.
I resanded and tried again. So much so that by my third attempt I just made MDF flat panel doors to replace the originals and painted it all in an Eggshell latex that gave me the finish I wanted in a timely manner.
You're lucky you chose black... My navy blue melamine paint turned out more Electric Blue than the swatch due to how it caught light.
Last week I threw out the old cabinet doors after sitting for almost a year in the house, and that melamine paint still looked like crap and was more sticky than hard. I've got another can I'm tempted to just take to the Re Store and let some other brave soul try it.
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Oh dear, that does scare me a little. I made a few mistakes that I had a hard time ridding and went through a pile of sandpaper, it’s soft right now but I assumed it just needs to cure. It is maybe a little too glossy as well, if you can see in the pic there’s some streaking on the sides, I had my air pressure too high for my sprayer. I’ll give an update as to whether it hardens up or not.
Spent some time assembling yesterday and hooking up all the components ;D
(http://)
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You aren't putting that giant horrible box on your cab, are you? That doesn't look like your drawing. Your lines were looking good up until now.
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Yeah I'd cut down the height of that control panel by 1/2. And what's up around that trackball? The first picture you posted where you cut the holes the trackball hole looked fine and then the next pic with the buttons installed it looks like a chunk is missing at the top left of the trackball hole. Then the next picture with the trackball makes it look like it's not centered with another chunk missing lower left and it doesn't appear to be level with the surface. I also don't think you want those 2 red buttons getting in the way of using the trackball. Another thing that happens with a 2 player layout like this is 95% of the time you are using it by yourself and it will feel like you are too far to the left. I know because mine is built that way.
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:o
No no. That’s my prototype control panel. I threw it together to try button layout and set up my games etc, actually it was built around a 32” T.V. but downsized to a 27” now
The CP is going to be a flat 3/4” slab with about a 1” overhang. Question, I envision using ash or maple with a clear coat, thoughts?
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Here’s where I’m at today. T-moulding is on, doors and latches are mounted and USB/headphone jacks are mounted. Due to me sucking with setting up this router the slot cut on the right ended up a little wider than desired for TMoulding (I was to the right of centre and decided to take a second pass). I tried the hot glue method of remedy but not sure I’d recommend, you don’t get much working time but you also don’t have to hold it as long, I’ve seen gorilla glue recommended because it swells up a bit maybe I’d try that next time.
Next steps are to tweak the doors a little, do some touch up painting where I scratched it and pickup the plexiglass from the shop this afternoon (I hope). Got decals and a marquee on order and the control panel to build, the cherry on top ;D
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Here’s where I’m at today. T-moulding is on, doors and latches are mounted and USB/headphone jacks are mounted. Due to me sucking with setting up this router the slot cut on the right ended up a little wider than desired for TMoulding (I was to the right of centre and decided to take a second pass). I tried the hot glue method of remedy but not sure I’d recommend, you don’t get much working time but you also don’t have to hold it as long, I’ve seen gorilla glue recommended because it swells up a bit maybe I’d try that next time.
Next steps are to tweak the doors a little, do some touch up painting where I scratched it and pickup the plexiglass from the shop this afternoon (I hope). Got decals and a marquee on order and the control panel to build, the cherry on top ;D
I've tried hot glue and I was unhappy with the results. It wasn't bad, but not minty fresh good. Now when I have this kind of error, I refill the slot with bondo and recut it. It's a little more painful, but worth it to me.
Looking good.
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Yep I made the same mistake with T-moulding when I built a bartop in December. I used the slot cutter I had bought for my vpin build but didn't even think to check the required width. I had used it on the vpin to cut the slot for the plastic trim that the playfield glass slides into so it was just wide enough that the barb on the T-moulding wouldn't grab. I used Gorilla glue and got it attached but it was a pain. I had to use clamps all over the place to hold it in place as the glue was drying.
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Here’s where I’m at today. T-moulding is on, doors and latches are mounted and USB/headphone jacks are mounted. Due to me sucking with setting up this router the slot cut on the right ended up a little wider than desired for TMoulding (I was to the right of centre and decided to take a second pass). I tried the hot glue method of remedy but not sure I’d recommend, you don’t get much working time but you also don’t have to hold it as long, I’ve seen gorilla glue recommended because it swells up a bit maybe I’d try that next time.
Next steps are to tweak the doors a little, do some touch up painting where I scratched it and pickup the plexiglass from the shop this afternoon (I hope). Got decals and a marquee on order and the control panel to build, the cherry on top ;D
I've tried hot glue and I was unhappy with the results. It wasn't bad, but not minty fresh good. Now when I have this kind of error, I refill the slot with bondo and recut it. It's a little more painful, but worth it to me.
Looking good.
Thanks Gilrock, Lew
Yep should have filled and recut when it was a panel in the shop, the hot glue left some small gaps where I didn’t hold it in well enough.
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Feel pretty good about today, found a nice little green lit fan, the cables I need and the glass guy gave me an awesome deal on the plexi (although he gave me 1/8 glass for the marquee instead of plexi nbd)
Sorted out how I was going to hold in the glass. Bought some mdf trim 1/2” by 1 1/4” wide, then cut a relief along the backside 3/32 deep leaving 1/2” to sit flush against the bezel. To make this cut I had to remove the guard from my joiner and set up this hokey jig:
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163718436504
Here’s the side art I’ve ordered, what do you think? I’ve seen this stuff slammed in other threads :lol is it too obnoxious?
And this is with the glass in place and moulding unpainted
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Your cab has good lines. That artwork is complete ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. Don't use it.
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:censored: :hissy:
Your cab has good lines. That artwork is complete ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. Don't use it.
This is what I was afraid to hear... it’s already on way to Canadaland
How much of a pita is it to remove said -steaming pile of meadow muffin- once on the sides? I could try it on until I get something the cool kids will like...
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Refuse shipment. If that doesn't work then burn it on your porch.
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Refuse shipment. If that doesn't work then burn it on your porch.
:o you’re clearly not a fan...
Is it the quality of the stuff or the mess of different characters or the kinda lame Arcade Classics title?
Does everyone feel this way?
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That artwork makes me so angry I feel like driving to Michigan and burning that jerks house down. He has a lot of nerve charging money for that horse ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.
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Does everyone feel this way?
Dude what is this a vote? You need to decide what you like and hold your ground. ;)
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If you like the artwork, go for it. The way it sounded, I thought it was going to be swastikas. Drama!
If you decide to redo it later, it won’t be difficult to remove and reorder.
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163718436504
Here’s the side art I’ve ordered, what do you think? I’ve seen this stuff slammed in other threads :lol is it too obnoxious?
And this is with the glass in place and moulding unpainted
End of the day it's your cab, as long as your happy with the result then that's all that matters :)
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Ok ok. I thought I had made some byoac cardinal sin ordering these! ;) I’m new here
The thing is I figured you all may have seen this stuff in person before, looking for feedback on this my first build as well.
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Nice build. I like your design, and the balls to pull off a CRT on the first build. You did a nice job decasing the monitor, and your CRT frame is excellent. Side cuts are nice and you resisted the urge to go 4 player (I didn’t).
Only comments I would make are:
1.) Getting that CRT to look good you should really be using an AMD graphics card and install CRT Emulation drive to get a beautiful picture (with GroovyMame)
2.) I hesitated to say it but that tube will give you trouble with a number of games and their proper vertical size and refresh rates: (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,159464.0.html)
3.) You’ve got a fresh unique design, if you can swing it, marry it with your own artwork. This cab deserves its own flare, instead of a prepackaged one.
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Arroyo made the point better than me with his last comment. You didn't build a cookie cutter cab. It deserves better than cookie cutter artwork. Too many people here are scared to give their opinion. They are afraid grown men can't take criticism. Of course you can use any artwork you like. I am sure you already knew that. I look forward to seeing this cab completed.
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If you were building this for your kids to play I'd say they would like the artwork. I really don't mind it. A lot of people don't like the multi-character thing but I look at it and get nostalgic about each character like "oh...there's the Ghouls and Ghosts dude". It's got a Galaga feel to the border and I like that the characters are contained. Now what I don't like is the ones where the characters are literally plastered all over the cab all the way out to the edges. I look at those and say holy crap good luck if you ever wanted to sell that.
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Yah. I think my next project will be going for that perfect 240p picture, need a different gfx card but already have a little vga to component converter to try out. I see what you mean over in that other thread, Arroyo, my Wega tube won’t like some resolutions for sure. All this when the cab is done. I’ll have to look up how to remove decals next! It will be a bit before I design my own graphics, that’s pretty daunting, the other option is a game or brand theme.. it’s sorta in a defender inspired shape.
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It still covers a wide variety of games, but yeah there will be some compromises. You will get a very good picture using the VGA to component Transcoder, and using an AMD graphics card with Groovymame. The difference is striking using the proper resolution and refresh rate:
480i:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190531/c6f291aaa745bb66e4216195d0b24f83.jpg)
240p:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190531/2d8508373f9d33b1b5c01e061dd37c1c.jpg)
Notice the difference in clarity around the edges of the words.
Few more proper resolution pics:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190531/431e1a7233f51f070ed2344d06afa7a0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190531/0a61a03234dd9cf222f8100e3a64b037.jpg)
Anyway you get the idea.
As for the art, come up with an idea for a theme, and then outsource it to an artist. There are a ton of artists looking for work, and the price can be very reasonable. You could also just use some simple lines & shapes maybe outlining the shape of the cab. Just some ideas.
EDIT: You could do something interesting with the slots that you cut out of the sides, maybe some diffused Acrylic inserts and have lights behind it for a nice glow effect (https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/acrylic_sheets_color/341)?
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I did put my new green led fan by the left hand slots, it’s a pretty cool glow effect, might carry on with that.
Where is the token ‘Best ADM cards for 240p’ thread, having trouble finding it :embarassed:
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Where is the token ‘Best ADM cards for 240p’ thread, having trouble finding it :embarassed:
Nah don’t be, you’ll need to start reading up in the GroovyMame sub-forum a lot, I’m happy to help with questions but start there. To answer your question the easiest thing is to get the most powerful AMD you want that has Analog out to keep it easier. The most powerful is up to the R9 card but make sure it has DVI-I or VGA out. From there you can get a VGA cable (DB-9) to your transcoder (might have to get a DVI-I to VGA if that’s the output).
The Geedorah website that is linked has tutorials with step by step, but first you have to get your graphics card and cables straight.
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Working on the CP today, got a good fit, going to trim it with 1” maple
The big question is clear coat or stain? I’m leaning towards some dark have stain I’ve got.
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lookin' good. :applaud:
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The CP does look good, but IMHO it doesn't fit stylistically. The whole cab is painted black, no wood grain visible, and you've got one piece that is left 'natural' and very bright to boot. If I look at the cab, my eye is immediately drawn to the CP, because it's a bright spot that doesn't fit. It's like those pictures you have to look at and tell which piece doesn't fit.
I'd at least use the dark stain on a piece of scrap wood and see if that would make the CP darker and still looks good. You'd still have the contrast between the painted and the natural look, but it wouldn't be that glaring.
Other than that, I would do the whole front of the cab in maple, so the look of the front is consistent and has a nice contrast to the painted side panels.
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Yah Yamatestu, that’s what I’m worried about. I’ve been stuck on the wood grain cp, maybe I’m just sick of working with mdf. The entire front in maple is a cool idea, but may have to save it for next build, I could trim the marquee with it rather easily.
Here’s today’s update, spent hours yesterday sanding and tweaking, next dilemma is how to mount the ipac, no room will have to build a stand off to keep it attached to the CP.
This picture is prior to routing etc, I’ll update in a bit.
Edit, new pictures
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Wet sanded and stained the control panel, did I make the right choice? ???
(Weird light, also do all me pictures look stretched? Or is it this phone)
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The whole machine is black so I'd spray it black.
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I’m not wanting to accept that I’m wrong... I’ll probably see this through with a clear coat, won’t be hard to redo later - I hate just painting over nice wood.
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https://youtu.be/O4irXQhgMqg (https://youtu.be/O4irXQhgMqg)
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If you don't like painting over nice wood you should have used nice wood for the whole project and stained it all the same.
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I’m not wanting to accept that I’m wrong... I’ll probably see this through with a clear coat, won’t be hard to redo later - I hate just painting over nice wood.
Now go ahead and tell me in all honesty that the stained CP would looker better than a painted one.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=377618)
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It can totally work with the wood if you put some black elements on the cp and a couple other wood elements to the cab. Check out knievels woody here for how he integrated black on the cp:
https://knievel.webs.com/thewoody.htm
Don’t get me wrong, all black is fine but it seems to me if you are pushing for not traditional side art you should also consider other non traditional elements.
Consider 1/4” stainable sheets that you could cut out and create your own design for side art.
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+1 for adding more stained wood elements. The CP alone doesn't work.
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Damn you and your truthful renders, Yamatestu!
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We live in wondrous times. One can actually use a computer to emulate reality ;D
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Once you go black...... I like it with the green T-molding. The panel corners need rounding. Also, while the sticks are at the same parallel (no one noticed!), they are way....way......high on the plane. Unless you're sitting, at the right height, your wrists will not be touching the panel. It looks cramped as well, and of course too close to the admin buttons.
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Lol. Not quite ready to build a new panel, but the crowd has spoken and I’ll want to use the power tools again soon enough... placement so far feels pretty good, I can rest my palms comfortably on the panel. Should player two be dropped down a little?
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The best way to figure that out is to try it out with two players.
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This is what ordering things in Canada is like. I order marquee and side art from the US Jun 3rd and a gfx card from Hong Kong June 7 for a third the shipping cost and just arrived today. Not sure where the art is
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163722092895
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In my cocktail cabe built form a wind case, (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156026.msg1637971.html#msg1637971) I am going to try India Ink on some scrap. Then I'll decide if I'm going to do so for the CP. It should let you keep the wood look but match the black stile of the cab.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=On5NpF1P00s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=On5NpF1P00s)
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That’s pretty nice Locke, definitely a consideration
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I am seriously struggling with groovymame
I was able to get crt_emudriver up and running windows in 640x480 from the amd card > vga to component converter > crt tv. That was pretty exciting.
But trying to figure what to download and how to get Groovy MAME to run s convoluted
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Did you follow one of Calamity’s guides?
If your card is HD 5000 or newer then follow this:
http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1052#p1052 (http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1052#p1052)
If older then this:
http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1016#p1016 (http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1016#p1016)
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Followed the guides, the emudriver guide was great got that going.
Working through the groovymame guide is not going well, MAME will not launch. I may have forgotten how to install MAME. My existing mame 137 still launches fine, attract mode is messed, and trying to install mame .159 (that was oldest I could find)
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Working through the groovymame guide is not going well, MAME will not launch.
I'm willing to bet it's because you are working with MAME beyond 0.170 and you changed in the mame.ini the:
"video d3d9ex"
It actually should be set to auto. Just overwrite the d3d9ex to auto.
There are subtle notes in the tutorial that link the changes but are easy to miss. It really should be update to make it more obvious.
The link to the changes is here:
http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1235#p1235 (http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1235#p1235)
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Build is looking solid. Hell of a screen to use here. I'm about to start a build and I'm thinking about using a big ass consumer tv with component in.
Keep it up. :cheers:
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Build is looking solid. Hell of a screen to use here. I'm about to start a build and I'm thinking about using a big ass consumer tv with component in.
Keep it up. :cheers:
Thanks! If I ever get this sorted out I’ll try to explain how :o
Still can’t get a version of groovymame to launch, I’m going to try on my normal PC tomorrow, probably easier not using a big 480i tv screen connected to a dinosaur
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Build is looking solid. Hell of a screen to use here. I'm about to start a build and I'm thinking about using a big ass consumer tv with component in.
Keep it up. :cheers:
Thanks! If I ever get this sorted out I’ll try to explain how :o
Still can’t get a version of groovymame to launch, I’m going to try on my normal PC tomorrow, probably easier not using a big 480i tv screen connected to a dinosaur
I'm watching intently for the GroovyMame stuff. I have a compatible card but I feel like I see so many threads of people giving up on it. Seems like it's a hassle to get working but when it works, it's awesome.
I've considered going the (ever blasphemous) Pi route simply because there are so many plug and play video solutions like the pi2scart or rgbpi.
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I’ve got groovymame running easily on my main PC, copied it over to the arcade and it doesn’t want to launch. It seems my problem is totally related to the resolution I’m running. No time now will get back at it tonight.
RetroArch seems to work quite easily with crt emu.. but it’s a little clunky and I’ve set up everything around attract mode, but if you went ground up with RetroArch and did the research I’m sure it’s a more up to date solution.
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I did finally get groovymame to launch by running it in compatibility mode, windows 10 tries to force it into 480p I think and that's why it won't work unless windowed or if I switch to 648x486 res
Now the problem I have is that switch res keeps resorting to 480i on everygame, I have all these super-resolutions loaded but it won't use them.
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Got groovymame working by going to a new version, v.205, Calamity helped me realize that these old versions of Mame aren’t compatible with this setup. So now with a recreated game list I’m up and running in 240p, got some work to do on the picture yet. Looking for some advice:
Can anyone recommend a front end that works well in SD? I’m not sure Attractmode will continue to work
Where do you find nice hardware? I’ve checked the Home Depots and other box stores and can’t find nice bolts/Allen screws or anything I want to mount my joys and trackball with.
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Can anyone recommend a front end that works well in SD?
Congrats on getting Groovymame working.
I use Hyperspin for a frontend and it works great on 15khz. monitors. There's a bit of a learning curve, but it's great when setup.
As for mounting hardware I'd probably wait for Scott's (PL1) links but most people seem to use threaded inserts: (https://www.amazon.com/s?rh=n%3A17290529011&rd=1&ref=Oct_CateC_16410701_4)
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51IQhaSpo3L._AC_UL436_.jpg)
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Where do you find nice hardware? I’ve checked the Home Depots and other box stores and can’t find nice bolts/Allen screws or anything I want to mount my joys and trackball with.
Are you looking for carriage bolts for both or threaded inserts from GGG (https://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=317) or Ultimarc (http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.html) for the joysticks and carriage bolts for the trackball?
You almost certainly won't find off-the-shelf nice-looking carriage bolts at the big box stores, but you can use Spyridon's approach here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,87061.msg965226.html#msg965226) to grind off any text/markings then polish or paint the head.
For off-the-shelf, your best bet is to look at arcade vendor sites like ArcadeShop (http://www.arcadeshop.com/), GGG (https://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=297), Mike's Arcade (http://www.mikesarcade.com/), Paradise Arcade Shop (https://paradisearcadeshop.com/), Twisted Quarter (http://www.twistedquarter.com/), etc. ;D
Since you're in Canada, it may be worth the effort to try the grind/polish/paint approach instead of dealing with customs delays and expenses. :dunno
Scott
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Looking at the results I think I’ll try the polish/paint method on some carriage bolts
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And with now 70% more “meadow muffin” plastered all over it!
(https://uca37ac1ecde5e4705453e0418d0.dl.dropboxusercontent.com/cd/0/get/Ajhlt9dygKGMCoN2vJUwBCHCruXugCVD9ndAg-F0_0cDHuh60azfyPqpSBgjeAeMwi9KGboZ3s_bRvRZePqn5TVXJwUqs7kE7nO3kUN-xDUnbw/file?raw=1)
Down the road I will look into an original theme, I’m thinking “The Lizard” around my favourite marvel badguy and colour... sorry Mike it’s on there.
Toying with software and service menus right now, then I’ll replace those crappy mounting screws and experiment with maple trim around the glass and a black CP.. One of those projects I’ll tinker with for some time, perpetual hobby. Maybe I’ll even play a game , never did beat TMNT... ???
(Yes if it looks like I took a break from finishing my basement for this project, it’s because I did :) )
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Here’s the picture I’ve tried to link through Dropbox eight times in the last post :banghead:
Anyways..
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Overall I like it, and damn you move quick. Still would be interested to see the control panel in black, and see you make use of the slots in the side panels. I still say it deserves some original artwork, and if you could incorporate the slots with the art that would be even better!
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Nice job but why are all of the pics sideways??? It would be much easier to look at what you've done without tilting my head :laugh2:
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This forum hates my phone pictures... I’ll re upload from media fire later :(
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I’ll [...] experiment with maple trim around the glass and a black CP..
Now that would just be transferring the problem to another place. That CP should be black because one random piece of maple on an otherwise mostly black cab simply looks out of place. If you paint the CP black and do a maple bezel, then the CP will blend in and the bezel will look out of place. There's nothing wrong with using maple, but you should look for a way to incorporate it into the design rather than just slapping it on.
Take a look at my cab, this is mixing stained wood and black acrylic.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350705)
Now imagine how it would look like if the front and the bezel were made of wood and the CP was made of black acrylic. You'd look at it and go "Why is there one piece that doesn't fit?"
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That’s a very cool cab.
But what I meant of course was try different options like add more maple trim by replacing the mouldings on the sides of the screen and marquee with maple strips or if that doesn’t work go all black and redo the CP.
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=377876)
Seriously though, I think that adding some maple strips won't be enough. I hope that you'll prove me wrong. :cheers:
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Nice build. I like your design, and the balls to pull off a CRT on the first build.
Back in 2002 when I did my first build, it was all I had. :P I should take pics of that cab, it's still at my parents. First year of high school, I had *no* clue what I was doing.
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Looking at recycling the two extra 27s I have here as rejects for my build. One of them is a decased Wega same model.. do you folks recommend I hang onto certain spare parts?