Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: CD_Vision on July 09, 2002, 11:19:59 pm
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It's my understanding that people in the cabinet industry have a tool that they use, which is specifically meant for cutting t-molding grooves. Is this correct, or should I just buy a decent router? I need to get some moulding on the sides of my cabinet. I've got a Dremel, and I bought the router kit, but it is *way* too difficult to hold steady.
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i am also very very interested in any other way..please someone know anyother way..i never user any router because the home depot guy scared the crap out of me..he claims is very hard to do..ANYONE HELP??? :-[
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Using a router with a 1/16" slot cutting bit is really easy IF you cut the slots before assembling the cab. It is much easier to cut the slot when the board is laying nice and flat and you can rest the router on it.
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but is it possible even after i made the cabinet..its done.i went with iron edge molding..it look okay but i wanted to finish with golden t-molding...thanks for any info...
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It's my understanding that people in the cabinet industry have a tool that they use, which is specifically meant for cutting t-molding grooves. Is this correct, or should I just buy a decent router? I need to get some moulding on the sides of my cabinet. I've got a Dremel, and I bought the router kit, but it is *way* too difficult to hold steady.
I also purchased the router kit but never used it as I couldn't a. find a bit that was the right width b. couldn't figure how to manage that router attachment and keep it all straight.
I didn't have access to a real router and didn't really want to spend $ to buy one when I am not doing that much woodwork to require it in the future.
I used my dremel, the circular spacer, and a carbide cutting wheel I saw someone else recommend.
I already had my cab assembled, so I just turned it on its side, tested with pieces of scrap to get the cut centered (on 5/8 mdf), and went to town.
Go slow and be prepared to eat lots of dust if you are cutting MDF.
I was really pleased with the results...your mileage may vary.
If you are up to purchase a router and bit, this is the way others will recommend but I thought I would toss in how I did it seeing as you already have a dremel.
Cheers!
Steve
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it depends upon your cabinet. If the t-molding is just going on the sides I would suggest turning the cab on its side (make sure the cab is on something soft like a blanket so it doesn't mar the side that is down). When you get done with that side flip the cabinet over to the other side and cut.
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I was only applying t-molding to my control panel, and I didnt have a router, so I also went with the dremel approach. I used bit #542 ( http://www.dremel.com/productdisplay/bit_template.asp?SKU=542&Color=CC0000 ) which made the perfect size slot for the molding. I just went really slow, and did it outside (tons of sawdust). I imagine it would be a pain for a full cabinet, but its definetely possible. If you screw up (slot not perfectly centered), widening the slot and using some hot glue easily covers up mistakes.
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but is it possible even after i am make the cabinet..mine is done.i went with iron edge molding..it look okay but i wanted to finish with golden t-molding...thanks for any info...
Whatever you do, be sure that your cabinet screws are set back far enough that you won't hit them!!!!!
Hardened Router bit + 5000 RPM + Nasty Screw in the way = A V E R Y BAD DAY.
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Check with www.t-molding.com
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I've never used a router before and it's more or less my next job. I'll post once I've done it if anyones interested in my 'novice' experience.
I'm not sure when tho, I ordered the router bit (pretty hard to find in the UK), and we've now got postal strikes >:(
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I see dead threads :o :P
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Using a router is not that hard but its like any other power high speed cutting tool. You need to know how to use it and you need to respect it.
harbor freight has a router for $20, slot cutter bit for another $8 and you'll be making slots. Its also an excellent tool for other shaping and hole cutting dutys. Its actually one of the most flexible and powerfull tools in woodworking because it can do many different things.
The most important thing with a router is always cut in the direction against the spin of the bit.
The guys at home depot are not woodworkers, they don't necessarily know anything more about tools than the stock boy at the grocery store.
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but is it possible even after i am make the cabinet..mine is done.i went with iron edge molding..it look okay but i wanted to finish with golden t-molding...thanks for any info...
Like JustMichael said, definitely lay your cabinet on its side. It would be a lot more difficult to go up and down, because you'd have to support the weight of the router with your hands.
Don't let that Home Depot guy scare ya, dude. ;) I had never used a router before a couple of months ago, and cutting the t-molding slot was EASY. I mean, the cutter went through the MDF like butter, nice and straight too on my first try. You can do it! :)
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but is it possible even after I am done with the cabinet?.i went with iron edge molding..it look okay but i wanted to finish with golden t-molding...thanks for any info...
Like JustMichael said, definitely lay your cabinet on its side. It would be a lot more difficult to go up and down, because you'd have to support the weight of the router with your hands.
Don't let that Home Depot guy scare ya, dude. ;) I had never used a router before a couple of months ago, and cutting the t-molding slot was EASY. I mean, the cutter went through the MDF like butter, nice and straight too on my first try. You can do it! :)
dude this is from last year :D ;)
Cant belive I thought using a router was dangerous...lol.
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dude this is from last year :D ;)
Cant belive I thought using a router was dangerous...lol.
Yeah, Ken Layton has been resurrecting a lot of dead threads. Makes interesting reading. Stuff I never saw before, suddenly comes to light!
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dude this is from last year :D ;)
Cant belive I thought using a router was dangerous...lol.
Yeah, Ken Layton has been resurrecting a lot of dead threads. Makes interesting reading. Stuff I never saw before, suddenly comes to light!
Yeah good ol memories of my typos... :-\
I should always check what I write.People quote my typo and spelling ALL the time ::)
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dude this is from last year :D ;)
Cant belive I thought using a router was dangerous...lol.
DOH, I can't believe I didn't notice that. Hahahaha, whoops!
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Eightbit... What partnumber was the slot cutter you got? Was it 1/16?
I need to get a non-plunger router (sucks for sides) and I might get that 20 buck one. Looks great for small jobs (really I can't afford a $150 nice one and it looks good enought for me)
But I only saw a 2 peice set for 10 bucks... but they are 1/8 and 1/4. The 1/8 I hear requires you to use glue when doing tmolding
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Eightbit... What partnumber was the slot cutter you got? Was it 1/16?
I need to get a non-plunger router (sucks for sides) and I might get that 20 buck one. Looks great for small jobs (really I can't afford a $150 nice one and it looks good enought for me)
But I only saw a 2 peice set for 10 bucks... but they are 1/8 and 1/4. The 1/8 I hear requires you to use glue when doing tmolding
Harbor freight doesn't have the slot cutter you need. I know I've seen them posted from different sources several times here. You'll probably have to search the archives to find them.
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If you've got a router, how about going without T-Molding at all? My cab uses MDF and I routed the edges to give them a rounded look. Looks great, took 20 minutes, no issues with trim color and thickness.
Just a thought...
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If you've got a router, how about going without T-Molding at all? My cab uses MDF and I routed the edges to give them a rounded look. Looks great, took 20 minutes, no issues with trim color and thickness.
Just a thought...
MDF edges don't wouldn't hold up well in a arcade but for a home cab they should be fine.
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Well, I just went through the horror of trying to do the t-modling with a dremel and the carbide bit mentioned above. Its a nice little bit...but not up to the task of forming a new groove in 20-30 feet of melamine (particle board).
First of all, I went through 2 of those $17 bits...and still didn't finish the cab. In fact, I was only about half way through. So I had to take a straight cutter and go carefully down the sides and make an even bigger groove, and use polyurethane glue to hold the t-molding in.
Well, after the glue foamed out of every seem, and the hours it took to clean that stuff off (awesome glue - sucks to clean out of t-molding grooves though), I was frustrated.
The t-molding looks great and is held in *very* tightly by the glue, but I DO NOT recommend this method. Oh yeah, I burned up two of the good craftsman rotary tools in the process. Fortunately, they are cool on the returns.
In all, with the price I spent on the router attachment kit for the rotary, and the two bits, I could have purchased a cheap craftsman router and the 3/32 wood bit from MLCS.
FWIW, I just received the 3/32 bit from MLCS today ($18 shipped) and will buy a router here in the near future for the 3rd cab. That t-molding experience completely sucked.
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Yeah, I highly recommend doing this right if you have or can possibly get (buy, borrow, steal etc.) a router. I cut the groove for the two large side panels of my cab in about two minutes each. Really easy stuff if the tools are available.
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Just wondering if anyone has ever tried using a jigsaw or circular saw? It seems like it might be possible if you had a very steady hand. ;D
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Just wondering if anyone has ever tried using a jigsaw or circular saw? It seems like it might be possible if you had a very steady hand.
ROFL! ;D
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I just routed my t-molding slots last night with the slot cutter--once you figure out the best way to hold the router it was a piece of cake. I used a black and decker portable 5-in-1 system with the router attachment--you could also use a rotozip if you don't want to shell out money just for a router this is a nice versatile little tool. heres a pic.
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t-molding is actually one of the main reasons that I always use original cabinets, rather than build new ones. I can usually buy a cabinet for cheaper than it could cost to put t-molding on a new one.
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Just wondering if anyone has ever tried using a jigsaw or circular saw? It seems like it might be possible if you had a very steady hand. ;D
Jigsaw would not work. The blade moves up and down.
A circular saw would be possible if you found a thin enough blade then you would have the issue of centering it on the edge and keeping it there while you kept it level. It would probably cost more in material screwups than to buy a router and the slot cutter bit.
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http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1067970755_22740+105
Darryl
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If anyone does try the circular saw idea PLEASE, PLEASE set up the video camera. It will do 3 things:
1. It will prove to the insurance adjusters that it wasn't an attempt to commit suicide.
2. It will allow you to look back on your last few minutes with 10 fingers and someday laugh. And
3. It will prove the age old adage "be wary of a jack --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- with a circular saw"...
If you cant pony the $$$ for a new router you can rent one for only $$ at a rental store...
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lol!
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Just wondering if anyone has ever tried using a jigsaw or circular saw? It seems like it might be possible if you had a very steady hand. ;D
You sure you wanna try jigsaw ::) ?
LOL
C'mon man...thats...sad.
Router is the ONLY go.
I cut the slot for my cabinet in less then 5 minutes.
$60 well spent(+$22bit)
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I've got a related question. I used the 1/16th t-molding bit and a router. The groove looked pretty nice and clean.
The other night I sweated and cursed for 2 damn hours pressing the T-molding into the groove. My thumbs still hurt.
Is this normal?
Every step of this project seems to involve a lot of cursing. I do sitll have 10 fingers though.
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I've got a related question. I used the 1/16th t-molding bit and a router. The groove looked pretty nice and clean.
The other night I sweated and cursed for 2 damn hours pressing the T-molding into the groove. My thumbs still hurt.
Is this normal?
Every step of this project seems to involve a lot of cursing. I do sitll have 10 fingers though.
um,yes its normal.
use a plastic hammer(mallet..spelling?) ;D
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You want the t-molding to fit tight. If it goes in easy it won't stay over time. A wooden or rubber hammer or a block of wood and a regular hammer helps it go in a little easier. You shouldn't have to pound on it, it should just tap in. When you get to corners or tight bends make sure to notch out the back to allow it to make the curves.
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Router safety tips:
A router spins at 25 thousand RPM. You should be awake and alert before using a router table. Routing w/o the table is probably safer. I recomend a cartridge respirator with P100 filters, hearing protection and wraparound goggles.
Get a "slot-cutting" bit, the 'kerf' I use is 3/32. A block of wood and some cloth or a rubber mallet are a must.
Never heard of t-moulding.com before, and I have a folder of bookmarks just for t-moulding.
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Get a "slot-cutting" bit, the 'kerf' I use is 3/32. A block of wood and some cloth or a rubber mallet are a must.
Never heard of t-moulding.com before, and I have a folder of bookmarks just for t-moulding.
The bit might depend on your t-molding because t-moulding.com recomends the 1/16".
What other good sites do you have for t-moulding?
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The T-molding I got from Brady needs a 5/64" slot.
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Australian people can get 1.6mm slot cutters from apworkshop.com.au in Melbourne, works like a charm with t-moulding from t-molding.com
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I just got a 1.5mm kerf slot cutting bit. Unfortunately, I didn't realise it didn't come with the arbor and bearings (the pic on the website showed it all together, and didn't specify that most of it wasn't included) :(
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Even though the bit I used had a bearing it was too small to be any use--as long as your router guard remains flat the bit will be square--just takes a wee bit more concentration.
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The only time I ever had to cut a t-molding slot it was just on the edge of my Maze control panel. My friend used his router with like a 1/4" bit, and then I just glued it in.
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Even though the bit I used had a bearing it was too small to be any use--as long as your router guard remains flat the bit will be square--just takes a wee bit more concentration.
Well I had to order the arbor (shaft bit), so I thought I may as well get the bearings too...
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I just cut the rib off the back of the molding and roughed up the back surface a little with sandpaper. Then I glued it onto the edges with hotmelt.
Yep, hotmelt is almost as versitile as duct tape...
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Thats what I love about this board, there's always someone finding a new way to skin a cat (or attach t-molding in this case) ;D I'm going to remember that for next time or for smaller applications!
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I'm a big fan of hot glue too, I've got a near-antique craftsman 160 watt glue gun made out of a generous amount of Bakelite with a rubber cord real nice, with a double wide trigger.
anyways- I've never even attempted to cut t-molding slots without a slot cutter. Anyways, i think it's 0.070 inches which is between 1/16 and 5/64. Opitmal depth: 3/8 inches
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I've got a related question. I used the 1/16th t-molding bit and a router. The groove looked pretty nice and clean.
The other night I sweated and cursed for 2 damn hours pressing the T-molding into the groove. My thumbs still hurt.
Is this normal?
Every step of this project seems to involve a lot of cursing. I do sitll have 10 fingers though.
Use a plastic hammer ...
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word. I have a rubber mallet from sears and that thing is worth its weight in wood and rubber.
Just don't hit anything too cloase to your face because the mallet muight pop back atcha! Not that I would know...
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Hi,
Here's what I came up with. Sorry , but I don't know what this things are called in English (they're "anilhas" in Portuguese ... if anybody knows the translation ... be my guest), but I think you'll get the picture.
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/p3a18e45d6bcb041ebd8062418ffc2f60/faa0aece.jpg)
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/p1f24dab463b5b839b528fc51575f5924/faa0ae1f.jpg)
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/p9414c12affa1a17d0597ac463b96ce61/faa0ac8a.jpg)
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/pe135c208e8ac087f65f239966864059c/faa0abef.jpg)
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/p911db4af461c82292de404900e73aa08/faa0aba4.jpg)
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/p08704b86f4bee2edea2f8e433a049de5/faa0afae.jpg)
If you have any questions fell free to ask.
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Watch your back Pedro, there's a glowing red eyed monster in your workshop. :o
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Watch your back Pedro, there's a glowing red eyed monster in your workshop. :o
Yeap ... keep's me company ... on all those long nigths ... ;D