The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Everything Else => Topic started by: DaOld Man on April 30, 2018, 10:49:36 am
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Looks like a neat way to engrave wood.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hv9Ut9bAsfU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hv9Ut9bAsfU)
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Would probably take a while to get used to but seems to work well for a $55 item - could make an interesting tool to engrave the side art into a build :cheers:
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I was looking at these a while back. I would sincerely be more into it, except for the fact that 3d printing opened the door for me to enter the world of CNC at an absurdly cheap price.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1671517 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1671517)
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I was looking at these a while back. I would sincerely be more into it, except for the fact that 3d printing opened the door for me to enter the world of CNC at an absurdly cheap price.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1671517 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1671517)
so you can make it to the size you need up to the limits of the conduits rigidity.
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Yep, , it doesn't get big enough to cut cabinet sides, but big enough for a control panel or signs or fun projects. You can also have boards hang over, so perfect for engraving on wood larger than your cut area.
The adjustment I had to learn from 3d printing to a CNC like this is that a 3d printer relies on knowing the entire dimensions of your print bed. You place something in the middle of your bed and it does the job. This kind of CNC just starts everything from the starting position of your router, which you generally start in the corner. You have to mentally be aware of the size of your job so it doesn't try to cut outside the work area.
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It'll do a bartop though right?
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I would say no problem with a smaller bar top, and probably fine with a standard one too, as long as that is what you designed the cnc for. The real constraint with longer conduit is that it will start sagging in the middle if too long. If the purpose is to simply do perimeter cuts and maybe some pockets for fitting, than a sag of a few mm is not a big deal. If you are doing stuff like vcarving, then the sag becomes a bigger deal.
If you are looking to make an affordable machine to cut large sides and panels, you can make one of these mpcnc machines, and use it to make its big brother, the low rider. Vicious1.com has the full instructions on both.
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I would say no problem with a smaller bar top, and probably fine with a standard one too, as long as that is what you designed the cnc for. The real constraint with longer conduit is that it will start sagging in the middle if too long. If the purpose is to simply do perimeter cuts and maybe some pockets for fitting, than a sag of a few mm is not a big deal. If you are doing stuff like vcarving, then the sag becomes a bigger deal.
If you are looking to make an affordable machine to cut large sides and panels, you can make one of these mpcnc machines, and use it to make its big brother, the low rider. Vicious1.com has the full instructions on both.
That's what I thought.
He did mention thicker walled stainless pipe in his plans.
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But what about us poor souls that dont have a 3d printer?
Also, schedule 80 conduit and pipe is very thick walled, but on the conduit, the outside diameter is bigger, (not sure about pipe, but I think so too) so if you use sch 80 you will have to take this into account when you print your pieces.
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But what about us poor souls that dont have a 3d printer?
Also, schedule 80 conduit and pipe is very thick walled, but on the conduit, the outside diameter is bigger, (not sure about pipe, but I think so too) so if you use sch 80 you will have to take this into account when you print your pieces.
he sells the 3d printed parts for about $400
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he sells the 3d printed parts for about $400
To be clear:
- The printed parts are currently on sale for $155.
- The non-printed parts bundle (belts, stepper motors, control board, bolts, bearings, etc.) is $286 - $331, depending on the option you choose.
- You'll probably want to get a few other things like some cutting bits, a "Full Graphic Smart Controller, Big", emergency shutdown button, and maybe some limit switches.
- Add a spindle like a Dewalt DW660 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000051WQX/).
The grand total is a little over $500.
But what about us poor souls that dont have a 3d printer?
Also, schedule 80 conduit and pipe is very thick walled, but on the conduit, the outside diameter is bigger, (not sure about pipe, but I think so too) so if you use sch 80 you will have to take this into account when you print your pieces.
Currently, there are printed parts for three different outer diameters -- 23.5mm, 25mm, and 25.4mm. (1")
Buy the desired size tubing and order/print parts that match. ;D
They also sell parts like extruders to make your MPCNC double as a 3D printer or you can use your MPCNC to mill the flat parts for a MP3DP-V2- (https://www.v1engineering.com/projects/project-3d-printer/) printer. (MP3DP-V2- printer parts available here (https://vicious1-com.myshopify.com/collections/3dprinter-parts))
Scott