Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Alaska on September 06, 2017, 06:14:31 pm
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It seems like there are a lot of lighting options when it comes to marquees. What I'm looking for is the safest and best way to light a marquee that turns on and off with either the computer on button or monitor on switch. I currently have a working fluorescent fixture that is 110v with a three pronged cord that is not plugged in. I'm open to any options for wiring it up or buying an LED setup that wires into the computer. I'm hoping someone has some sound advice on which route to go, options for wiring, safety, or links to replacement plug and play lighting.
Many thanks
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I recommend lighter fluid and a match. The orangey-red glow is breathtaking.
But seriously, if you wanna power it off of the PC power supply, there is a TON of 12v LED strip options on amazon and others. If you want the easiest way, take a look at Groovy Game Gear's option. It wires straight inline with your PC supply.
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=307 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=307)
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Will there be kids around? Is it for a full size cab? Are you a Frank Spencer when it comes to electricity?
110v Strip for full size cab, LED lighting for bartop. It doesn't matter about power or voltage as you have 110/240 going into the cab. Heat is never a factor, but seeing your marquee lit up in a darken room is pretty cool, so you can go both routes. Whatever you feel comfortable with.
Frank Spencer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kP8PzO1mBug (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kP8PzO1mBug)
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I bought these to light the marquee in my jukebox. Much better than the cold cathode tubes I had before.
http://www.frys.com/product/8662280?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
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It's a full sized cab and my first build. Thanks for the advice. I'm leaning toward wiring in the flourescent to the cab first. If I run into a snag the LED bar Yotsuya posted looks pretty slick.
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It's a full sized cab and my first build. Thanks for the advice. I'm leaning toward wiring in the flourescent to the cab first. If I run into a snag the LED bar Yotsuya posted looks pretty slick.
I'd do the fluorescent as well, but that LED bar is great for bartops and small builds.
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Floury all day long in a full size :)
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Floury all day long in a full size :)
Do you buy floury tubes on your lappy in the U.K.?
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Floury all day long in a full size :)
Do you buy floury tubes on your lappy in the U.K.?
Nah, I nick them from work :D
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For my full sized cab I went with leds and have it connected to a Molex connector for my computer. Everything turns on and off via a bit smart power strip.
Ggg has it in an all in one package (be sure to add the wiring harness).
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=307 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=307)
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One one of mine I pushed led christmas bulbs through some pegboard and mounted it inside. Another one was some under cabinet lights on clearance at home depot.
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Look into the "ecostrip". It's a circuit strip that will turn on secondary plugs when power is detected on a USB cord. All you would have to do to turn on your existing marquee ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, monitor, etc is plug it into the strip and usb cord in computer. You can wire the strip to one of those flush panel plugs in the back of your cab for a fresh look.
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So here is where I am at. I have a lead coming off the main power that previously went to the PCB power supply. I tested the AC voltage and got 68V, 74 V, and 134V from presumably hot to hot. My questions is how I can utilize these leads to power my floury tube which calls for 110V. Typically three phase AC outlets are hot, neutral and ground... I am a bit stumped as I anticipated seeing 110+V from one lead to ground and no voltage from the second lead to ground. What am I missing here... seems like it is staring me in the face.
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5DKAqB0M_ivSjdDT0lyX0J2QTNmVFQ1ZHhNRTdpT2gxakJj/view?usp=sharing)
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5DKAqB0M_ivbTZ3WkZsZkhENkgxdWt3dENxS2gyRFN3cS1N/view?usp=sharing)
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5DKAqB0M_ivSnZWcVFMNGdlcFR1NmgzZ3F1RWdEc3VwNFdJ/view?usp=sharing)
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5DKAqB0M_ivY3BXdzl2ZnFjMThBNDFyM3ZKakZ6Sml0YVVB/view?usp=sharing)
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5DKAqB0M_ivcVFGN0hYYlptNG1fVmlLbF9INlgxOGEzWkgw/view?usp=sharing)
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Here are some pics that I meant to have added to the previous post.
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Here is a better question... If I connect the hot and neutral coming off of the floury tube to the AC leads that previously powered the PCB power supply, and the green (ground) from the floury tube to the ground that previously ran to the PCB power supply, will I end up with a powered floury light or a house fire?! I am just a bit baffled that both AC lines that previously ran to the PCB power supply carried a downgraded current of 68V and 74V...
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Think you are getting a little confused.
I dont work with American power so dont know exactly what normal voltages are over there.
But.
3 phase supplies have 3 "live" or "hot" wires, a "earth" or "ground", and sometimes a neutral.
What you describe sounds more like dual phase or centre tapped.
Where you have 2 live wires and 1 ground.
That will give you a total voltage of 110v or whatever live to live and say 55v live to ground.
How that relates to your light ime not sure.
As I said ime in the UK where we use 240v live to earth/neutral so a totally different supply for domestic use!
But we do have 2 & 3 phase supplies in industry lol
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Think you are getting a little confused.
I dont work with American power so dont know exactly what normal voltages are over there.
But.
3 phase supplies have 3 "live" or "hot" wires, a "earth" or "ground", and sometimes a neutral.
What you describe sounds more like dual phase or centre tapped.
Where you have 2 live wires and 1 ground.
That will give you a total voltage of 110v or whatever live to live and say 55v live to ground.
How that relates to your light ime not sure.
As I said ime in the UK where we use 240v live to earth/neutral so a totally different supply for domestic use!
But we do have 2 & 3 phase supplies in industry lol
Indeed I am getting confused and don't know much about electricity/wiring. Unfortunately my buddy who is an electrician is out moose hunting for a few weeks, but I will likely ping him to help me wire this thing up when he gets back.
I was just curious if anyone has taken the leads that run to a PCB power supply and wired them into a light fixture on their cab. At this point it might be more worthwhile to start a new thread asking a troubleshooting question... Either way I appreciate the help!
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Wire it up, take it outside, plug it in, turn on the hose, then fire up that mother!
I think you'll find that it works.
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Wire it up, take it outside, plug it in, turn on the hose, then fire up that mother!
I think you'll find that it works.
The question is... which line do I run to hot on the florescent tube, and which do I run to neutral... or does it matter?!
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I don't think it matters.
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I don't think it matters.
Done and done! Light works, cab looks great. My first build is officially done! Pretty exciting. Thanks again for the help.
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I don't think it matters.
Done and done! Light works, cab looks great. My first build is officially done! Pretty exciting. Thanks again for the help.
No problem! Glad it worked out!
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You guys are trippin, LED's all the way. Used the led strips from groovy in my last two builds and never looked back :cheers:
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For my full sized cab I went with leds and have it connected to a Molex connector for my computer. Everything turns on and off via a bit smart power strip.
Ggg has it in an all in one package (be sure to add the wiring harness).
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=307 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=307)
Do you mean a molex connector that's inside your PC connected to your power supply? If so, how did you exactly connect it via a wiring harness. Thanks in advance. I was thinking of going this route. Seems pretty simple and not too expensive (maybe $30).https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v88q9XIOEzU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v88q9XIOEzU)
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Just my two cents..... Heat probably isn't an issue, but uv radiation might be. I don't know if there is a huge difference between fluorescent or led in that dept. though. I've got fluorescents in all my stuff but I've been thinking of trying rgb led strips and a marquee that can take advantage of the color change for some future projects.
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kerosene Lamp, plebs.
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Hey, Alaska:
How's your soldering skills? Open your monitor. On main board, coming back from LVDS board, you should see
one pin labeled [BL/ON]. That turns on backlight. Whenever LVDS sends that pin low (ground), backlight will
be on. Go on eBay, and find a used Dell DA-2 power brick. Then, head on over to Groovy Game Gear, and
pick up their 12 volt marquee LEDs (they're meant for what you are doing). From your monitor, you need two
thin wires, BL/ON and LVDS ground. Join BL/ON to DA-2 remote on. Don't worry. It's a FET switch, so there's
no current draw. Join LVDS ground to DA-2 ground. Here's the fun part. Power EVERYTHING 12 volt, that is not
part of your computer, from DA-2 +12 and ground.
Key Features:
* When monitor goes to sleep, so does all your other arcade lights.
Really nice for when you want to sleep.
* Low heat output. No marquee venting and no fires.
* You have removed current load off computer power supply.
Your computer will thank you for it.
- David
I recommend lighter fluid and a match. The orangey-red glow is breathtaking.
Slippyblade, cut that crap out. I almost pissed myself laughing! :laugh2: