Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: bperkins01 on August 30, 2017, 12:43:11 am
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Hi Everyone,
Hopefully this profile makes sense. I've looked at a bunch of cabinet designs and I think have most items covered. If you have any suggestions - they are greatly appreciated.
Obviously there is no control panel yet. It will sit on the arms and next to the bezel cross piece. The "blocks" for the monitor and the marquee show the outer dimensions of the screen and I'm allowing for a (potential) LCD marquee down the road.
The split back are access doors. On the front the lower door will have a coin mechanism. Then there is a keyboard drawer.
Thanks
(https://i2.wp.com/bperkins.files.wordpress.com/2017/08/capture.jpg?ssl=1&w=450)
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Yes this is an excellent design and well suited to put an x arcade control panel into.
Good luck on your build. :applaud:
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The keyboard drawer is unnecessary. I use a wireless keyboard with a touch pad integrated. I think it cost 11 dollars. I just store it inside the cab when it is not in use.
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I agree, a wireless keyboard and mouse is the way to go, especially if you have more than 1 cab. You can just plug the dongle into the cab you want to play around with. Just get a cheap USB extension cable or hub that's accessible through the coin door, or whatever.
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Is there a reason you made the cabinet as deep as you did? Seems with the LCD, you could shave a good amount off the depth and not lose anything but some side art.
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Thanks for the feedback everyone.. I think I will loose the drawer and add another shelf inside for the keyboard/mouse behind the coin door.
I went with what I thought were "traditional" cabinet dimensions. It is 72" high and 31 1/2" deep, which I based off of Centipede and a couple others. That said - I see your point..
A quick look shows I can skinny it up a few inches w/o losing much of anything.. Might just do that - Thanks for taking a look!
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I have had both keyboard drawers and wireless keyboards and I prefer the drawer.
I think the cabinet is shallow enough already. Plus we need to see the panel you are bolting on before I can really comment on depth or final design.
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Thanks for the info. I've been working my way through the CP pages to get ideas. I'm pretty sure I want the layout with 6 buttons + 1 button design. I'm assuming the 1 button is the fire button. I really like this one.. Not sure what the 4 way joystick does and some of the top row buttons.. But this is 90% of what I'm thinking.
(http://www.arcadecab.com/images/Visitor_Pics/David_D_IMG_4754_lg.jpg)
Taking a measuring tape and overall depth off the wall including panel, and keeping it in the 28-32 range is looking to make good sense.
All great input from the more experienced.
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That IS a nice layout pictured above.
Here is a crude quick picture of my cab/CP (was a picture I was using as I was testing/building my racing cockpit. haha)
Anyways..
Depending on room... some people like to have extra buttons to control little things like VOLUME or PAUSE buttons... or etc....
I have 3 left of my track ball which are 2 mouse buttons and an extra. (I use these for like missile command)
And then I have 3 right of my track ball. Pause/Vol-/Vol+ just so they are super handy.
The rest are Quarter / Start for each of my 4 players.... Dual sticks for games like smash tv for 1P and 2P.
I haven't done spinners or 4 ways sticks.
Sometimes 4 way sticks are better for games that only utilize 4 way (pacman, frogger, qbert etc...)
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As stated above the 4 way stick is used for 4way games. You could use some of the joysticks sold by ultimarc that do both. Also that seventh button I use for a proper Neo Geo layout.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Serious dedication to driving games!
Thanks for the tips. I'm just determining the "control" buttons that I want to provide space for.
I got the Ultimarc ServoSticks for both 4-8 way controls.. Seems like the way to go..
I have a real coin door - which I'll have functional -for the full effect.
I'm toying with the idea of putting the coin buttons on the underside of the panel so you tap them upward to "insert coins".. The downside will be teaching everyone that they are there.. I do want Pause and Exit on the CP... - and Vol +-? I do need to figure that out.. I was going to have a knob below the CP for a mini 2.1 AMP
Thanks!
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It's funny. No matter how simple and straight forward you make it people always need instruction it seems. I had a bunch of friends over and my MAME only works with coin door. I have no alternative coin buttons. People stand there pushing buttons trying to start a game like they've never used an arcade machine before lol. So coin buttons aside people will always need a bit of teaching
I think your cabinet looks solid. But shave some depth to save space you won't notice a difference as far as traditional looking cabinet goes. Don't need the depth without a CRT monitor
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thanks - group verification goes a long way. I'll be shaving off some depth. Love Sketchup for design work!
Glad I posted the pic. More to come.
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Great work so far. Proper planning is about 50% of the work! Glad to see you have a Sketchup model. :applaud:
As for the wireless keyboard, I've use this Logitech wireless keyboard with a touchpad built in. It's compact and works great!
https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-touch-keyboard-k400r (https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-touch-keyboard-k400r)
DeL
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Probably stay away with a dedicated exit button because you don't want anybody or you to accidentally press it while playing a game. Your better off programming 2 buttons to do this like pressing both player 1 and 2 to exit games.
Sent from my Atari 2600
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I like the keyboard and the 2 button exit.. that is very forward thinking !
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I'm not a fan of the keyboard drawer. If you are taking the time to build something that looks like an arcade machine then what arcade cabinet do you know of that had a keyboard tray?
My other concern would be the control panel height. Adding for the dimension of the wood itself, how much area do you have for the joystick and buttons you plan on using? You may indeed have enough but it's better to know that now rather than later.
I also question the design of the split back. What will it be made of and what's the reason for this type of design? It seems overly complicated.
Anyway, with this amount of detail work upfront I have no doubt your cab will turn out great no matter what!
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Yea.. My next Sketchup addition is the CP. I think I have the final height where it will be comfortable (for me of course).. The wife is 4'11" she will have to stand on something :P But I'll adjust if needed...
I went with a split back door just for accessibility. With European hinges, I can pop then on/off pretty easy and not have a 31x48 panel to deal with..
Of all the details and concerns about the design and construction, woodworking is not one of them.. I'm fortunate to be a very experienced woodworker with all the tools + equipment to build pretty much anything. I'm going to try to put a curved front on the CP box just for a design feature..
I've gone back & forth on plywood vs particle board and I'm now leaning toward the particle board based on a new youtube video from Retroactive Arcade.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-B88xMz3Rs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-B88xMz3Rs) If a Pro shop does it.. I can.. I plan on using formica/laminate. It should work fine.
Very good forum here.. I'll be sure to "Give Back" on the woodworking side of the house..
Thanks
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Thanks for the info. I've been working my way through the CP pages to get ideas. I'm pretty sure I want the layout with 6 buttons + 1 button design. I'm assuming the 1 button is the fire button. I really like this one.. Not sure what the 4 way joystick does and some of the top row buttons.. But this is 90% of what I'm thinking.
(http://www.arcadecab.com/images/Visitor_Pics/David_D_IMG_4754_lg.jpg)
Taking a measuring tape and overall depth off the wall including panel, and keeping it in the 28-32 range is looking to make good sense.
All great input from the more experienced.
That is a really nice design, it would be hard not to be happy with it. Only real change I would suggest is getting a Happ Pac-Man replacement stick for the 4-way instead of the Japanese style one in the picture.