The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: barrymossel on August 11, 2017, 12:14:00 pm
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I am married and my life is like a fairy tale: the witch is every day waiting for me on the couch. So a normal arcade cabinet would never pass the balloting committee. And as I had to give up my potential man cave (I never finished) to a room for one of my daughters, the only arcade cabinet that would be "allowed" in the living room will have to be something that fits the interior. So for me no flashy artwork, no fluorescent colors nor a huge 4 player cabinet with flashing buttons.
I do have to say that she allowed the orange boombox I made in the living room (as the color I used comes back in the pillows on the couch).
(https://thumb.ibb.co/mpRSWa/452907.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mpRSWa) (https://thumb.ibb.co/gQY7Wa/452909.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gQY7Wa)
I am referring to that radio because I really like the sound of it and I want to use the same drivers (incl. subwoofer) in my arcade cabinet, so I have some extra sound in the house (of course when the wife is gone) :) I will add a Chromecast Audio (which is also in the boombox) for multi-room audio (toggle switch between Chromecast/Raspberry).
Nah, my wife isn't really a pain in the ass. But fact is that I don't have any room for an arcade cabinet other than the living room. And a "normal" one, wouldn't just fit in there. So I decided to go with used scaffolding board, inspired by another arcade builder from the Netherlands. I asked for his plans and started yesterday with the cabinet.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/b36uBa/20170811_152824.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b36uBa) (https://thumb.ibb.co/nJAXxF/20170811_163346.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nJAXxF) (https://thumb.ibb.co/mmVXxF/20170811_163402.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mmVXxF)
The interior was already "done" quite some time ago:
- Raspberry Pi 3 running RetroPie (+ Mausberry)
- Some old 19" 4:3 LCD I got from a previous job
- Happ style buttons (black/white) - 6 per side & 4 admin buttons
- Sanwa style joysticks
- Zero Delay Controllers
- USB controllers for console gaming
- TPA3116 2.1 amplifier
- 2 Visaton FRS8-4 full range speakers
- Tang Band W5-1138SMF
If I am going to play it a lot I might consider upgrading to a PC with a bit more power.
The only things I am not quite sure about:
- Should I go with tinted glass, because my screen isn't that bright?
- Will I add (a second control panel with) a trackball?
- Where should I put the subwoofer? I want it visible, with a nice grill, so I guess bottom/middle.
- Should I add some led strip?
- How can I make the saw cuts look "used" again?
- What to do for a front-end theme? And in which front-end customizing is easiest - I guess Attract Mode?
Ah, time will tell. This will probably take a pretty long time, because I am not the fastest when it comes to building :) And tips are very welcome, as this is of course my very first build.
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Step aside, pretenders, the King of Betas has claimed his throne.
:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
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Step aside, pretenders, the King of Betas has claimed his throne.
:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
LOL ;D
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**Jennifer calls your wife** >:D....(Giggle, no not really) , Oh yes those speakers are cool, I for some strange reason find the simple complexity of them fascinating. I haven't built a set yet but do love BIG speakers. That cab however seems a bit unstable and tippy, The only fix I could of now after the fact would be bolt it to the wall (By design and through the back) kind of like a wall mounted jukebox.... **Jennifer plops back down on the couch** Now go get me a diet cola.
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I was planning some adjustable feet on the front, so I can tip it back a bit. But for now it's actually quite stable as well!
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I would think those adjustable feet would get in the way of the player, and in the excitement on a near death game that cab could potentially fall over on someone.... Its your game friend, just sayin ::).
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I know they say it's cheaper to keep her but man, I live like I used to in college except I clean better and can afford way cooler toys to put in my dining room.
Don't even know why I have one, the dining room table doubles as my workbench anyways. :)
anyways I do like the finish/lack of finish on that wood.
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I know they say it's cheaper to keep her but man, I live like I used to in college except I clean better and can afford way cooler toys to put in my dining room.
Don't even know why I have one, the dining room table doubles as my workbench anyways. :)
anyways I do like the finish/lack of finish on that wood.
I am allowed to do that. So she can keep an eye on me ;)
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About wanting rough looking cuts on the wood -
When I was a kid my step-dad made some "fake barn wood" for my bedroom. He owns a cabinet shop on the property. By "barn wood" I mean that the face of the wood was roughened up and not the edge. But this would work even better on an edge.
He told me he did this by running it through the band saw backwards. Now I'm sure he said band saw, but he has every tool ever made so it's possible it was another saw, but I think he just raised the blade and put the wood on its side and pulled it through.
Maybe that'll give you another idea anyways. Maybe you can get the kids to hit with hammers :)
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"Allowed" Good god... This is the most depressing thread on this site. :lame:
Makes me feel great knowing my wife encourages my hobbies.
All hail King of the Betas.. :burgerking:
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*cue JohnRT teabagging photos
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About wanting rough looking cuts on the wood -
When I was a kid my step-dad made some "fake barn wood" for my bedroom. He owns a cabinet shop on the property. By "barn wood" I mean that the face of the wood was roughened up and not the edge. But this would work even better on an edge.
He told me he did this by running it through the band saw backwards. Now I'm sure he said band saw, but he has every tool ever made so it's possible it was another saw, but I think he just raised the blade and put the wood on its side and pulled it through.
Maybe that'll give you another idea anyways. Maybe you can get the kids to hit with hammers :)
Thanks! Actually it doesn't need to roughen that much. It rather should get the old color. At the moment the saw cuts are very light colored, while the rest has that old grey look. I don't want to use grey wash on the edges as that normally turns out pretty unrealistic. But maybe I should anyway.
"Allowed" Good god... This is the most depressing thread on this site. :lame:
Makes me feel great knowing my wife encourages my hobbies.
All hail King of the Betas.. :burgerking:
Just gotta love those people that can't seem to notice sarcasm even when it hits them. :) :D
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Well the project name hooked me in lol
Why not stain your wood make it more furniture looking?
I also agree with Jenifer, you will probably want to secure that to a wall.
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Just gotta love those people that can't seem to notice sarcasm even when it hits them. :) :D
Whatever you say, bro. Now go cut some boards.
:cheers:
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I like when people try new things. It makes for a great thread.
The choice of the TPA3116 is solid. As a bit of an audiophile, I can say without question, the best option for a cab project. High quality sound, good power and small form factor.
I have dabbled a bit in cigar box guitar making and have tried to achieve good finishing techniques to give an aged look. One secret weapon of mine is steel wool dissolved in vinegar. Its tricky to get right but can provide some good aging to wood edges that look quite new. Fender guitars also use keys on a chain and such to beat up their relic'd guitars. Depending on how the wood is, whacking it with your keychain strategically can simulate wear and tear.
Also, barnboard is popular, there are likely plenty of good links out there on achieving that look youre after.
Or if youre patient, creative, gutsy, and dont have kids, there is probably something funky and cool you could do with some hammered out metal tacked on like TMolding. Then you may as well go full SteamPunk :lol
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I like when people try new things. It makes for a great thread.
The choice of the TPA3116 is solid. As a bit of an audiophile, I can say without question, the best option for a cab project. High quality sound, good power and small form factor.
I have dabbled a bit in cigar box guitar making and have tried to achieve good finishing techniques to give an aged look. One secret weapon of mine is steel wool dissolved in vinegar. Its tricky to get right but can provide some good aging to wood edges that look quite new. Fender guitars also use keys on a chain and such to beat up their relic'd guitars. Depending on how the wood is, whacking it with your keychain strategically can simulate wear and tear.
Also, barnboard is popular, there are likely plenty of good links out there on achieving that look youre after.
Or if youre patient, creative, gutsy, and dont have kids, there is probably something funky and cool you could do with some hammered out metal tacked on like TMolding. Then you may as well go full SteamPunk :lol
Thanks, will try the steelwool tip when I get back from vacation!
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Didn't try the steel wool yet, but I did some "research" and that looks like the best option. And then some finishing with varnis/stain (don't know the exact English word).
Worked on the CP last weekend. And I hate it. The buttons and sticks are too low on the panel, so no support for the hand and/or wrist. Luckily I foreseen that and I have a spare board that would fit the CP area. Unfortunately these board are too thick to under mount the joysticks, so I need to use a router a lot to make it thinner.
(https://image.ibb.co/bwxGik/20170910_140518.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/mNiYUQ/20170910_140524.jpg)
Also bought a new 4:3 LCD, just a tad larger at 20,1" instead of 19". Might be a little bit too large though as I will be quite close to the screen. Will test that soon, but the bigger screen does look better aesthetically.
The lower part of the cabinet will be mostly some kind of storage, so I will make a door of the lower three boards. I will add a subwoofer too and probably will put that also in that area somewhere. I not sure though where to locate the subwoofer driver and port. I don't think it will look too good in the front, so maybe on the side? Anyone some suggestions on this?
I am also still not sure about the button layout/order. Probably the arcade buttons will be mostly used for mame (consoles will be done with separate controllers) so I guess I would go for something like:
Top Row: 1, 2, 3
Bottom Row: 4, 5, 6
Any suggestions or alternatives (and why)?
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The 20.1 will be fine from the distance you are standing. Definitely agree with moving the sticks and buttons up on the panel, The undermounting is straight forward enough with a plunge router, you just have to take out the area for the joystick and microswitches not the whole panel. (There is a thread around on undermounting joysticks, follow that and you can't go wrong) Yes do the buttons as 123 on top and 456 on the bottom. For games that only use 3 buttons you can set them as 123 and 123 within mame :) What decision if any has been made for the edges and the control panel top, I wouldn't like to get a splinter in the side of my hand from the wood .
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The 20.1 is a great screen. You'll love it.
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There is a thread around on undermounting joysticks, follow that and you can't go wrong
There are several methods mentioned in the FAQ including "Under mount (support blocks)".
https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks (https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks)
Scott
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The 20.1 will be fine from the distance you are standing. Definitely agree with moving the sticks and buttons up on the panel, The undermounting is straight forward enough with a plunge router, you just have to take out the area for the joystick and microswitches not the whole panel. (There is a thread around on undermounting joysticks, follow that and you can't go wrong) Yes do the buttons as 123 on top and 456 on the bottom. For games that only use 3 buttons you can set them as 123 and 123 within mame :) What decision if any has been made for the edges and the control panel top, I wouldn't like to get a splinter in the side of my hand from the wood .
Thanks! I agree on just routing the parts for the joysticks. For the current control panel I routed almost the entire thing... :banghead:
The edges of the control panel will be rounded roughly and the whole thing will be sanded and get a coat of something. So probably no chance of splinters.
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Oh my god! I used that same exact monitor until last month when I swapped it out for a 24". It was in my first build I did when I was a shop teacher back in 2008. :angry:
I have built 6 cabs since then but sold them all to friends for cost. My first one sat in my office was played by my family every day until last month. The whole cab is getting redone at the moment
That monitor worked great. I put a 32" in my last build and I feel like my face is way to close. :-\