Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: SuperGojira2001 on July 23, 2017, 06:32:35 pm
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So I posted this issue on my main thread but I got no answers. Hopefully someone can help me, on the top of the monitor are retrace lines. Apparently these can appear if the brightness on the back of the flyback is too high. However I've messed with both the brightness and focus pots and I cant get the lines to go away. I've tried pretty much everything but vertical and horizontal hold. Is my flyback dying? I hope not :dunno Any ideas? Or should I let it be?
The lines (on top, they look less or more noticeable depending on the color): http://imgur.com/a/DGzAs (http://imgur.com/a/DGzAs)
Back of the flyback (bottom is "screen", top is "focus"): http://imgur.com/a/FU4W3 (http://imgur.com/a/FU4W3)
EDIT: I never noticed any strange lines on the original PCB before I got the ArPiCade, and when it was at 720x240 the retrace lines were there but cut off. I have it at 320x240 and it's much more noticeable.
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No replies? Looks like I'm on my own :angry:
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Do they move with the image when you adjust the vertical height? If so, it's a problem in the horizontal deflection of your chassis. Ignore it or replace your capacitors.
Retrace lines would be uniform across the image.
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Do they move with the image when you adjust the vertical height? If so, it's a problem in the horizontal deflection of your chassis. Ignore it or replace your capacitors.
Retrace lines would be uniform across the image.
Yes they move with the image. I was hoping I wouldn't have to replace capacitors, oh boy.
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What capacitors should I be replacing or looking at?
Here's a pic if that helps:
http://imgur.com/a/rENkm (http://imgur.com/a/rENkm)
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Figure out what the brand and model of that chassis is. Nothing looks obviously wrong in the picture.
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Figure out what the brand and model of that chassis is. Nothing looks obviously wrong in the picture.
I think it's an Irico 37SX110Y22-DC05 (thats what it says on the back of the tube). I'll try to find some sort of diagram of the chassis and see if I can find the capacitors that are linked to the horizontal deflection.
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I can't find anything on this chassis anywhere! I guess it wasn't used for a lot of things...anybody got a diagram of the capacitors or something so I know what to replace?
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The problem in the pic looks like vertical foldover to me. And replacing electrolyitics caps is the usual fix. You can just replace the ones in the vertical section, but if you can't figure out which ones those are an Arcade chassis won't have too many in total, only about 20-25 or so. Just replace them all.
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The problem in the pic looks like vertical foldover to me. And replacing electrolyitics caps is the usual fix. You can just replace the ones in the vertical section, but if you can't figure out which ones those are an Arcade chassis won't have too many in total, only about 20-25 or so. Just replace them all.
That's a lot of caps lol. I've never done something like this before xd.
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that is an very basic chassis, can you get a photo from the opposite side-so I can see if it uses an ic or two transistor for the vertical deflection
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So, if I were you, I'd try messing around with the vertical size and the horizontal and vertical sync and see if you can't get this image to somewhere where it doesn't bother you too much. Worth playing around with the Pi, too. I'd change your Pi's overscan settings so that the image was vertically shrunk a little, and then use the V-size adjustment on your chassis to stretch it out and fill the screen.
That thing could go years before the caps finally crap out and you have an unplayable monitor. Sounds like it'll last 5 minutes if we turn you loose with a soldering iron on it.
:cheers:
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So, if I were you, I'd try messing around with the vertical size and the horizontal and vertical sync and see if you can't get this image to somewhere where it doesn't bother you too much. Worth playing around with the Pi, too. I'd change your Pi's overscan settings so that the image was vertically shrunk a little, and then use the V-size adjustment on your chassis to stretch it out and fill the screen.
That thing could go years before the caps finally crap out and you have an unplayable monitor. Sounds like it'll last 5 minutes if we turn you loose with a soldering iron on it.
:cheers:
Before I sent the ArPiCade back I tried moving the image and messing with the overscan settings and I could not get them to go away. The lines would stick with the image even if I shrunk it with black bars on the top and bottom. I'm going to test the original PCB again to see if they come back, and if they don't then it's not the monitor.
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Ok I plugged the original PCB in and there were no strange lines. Maybe it had something to do with the resolution of the Pi, I have no clue. Still debating on selling the cabinet, takes up a lot of space too... :-[