Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Ninja69Assassin on June 27, 2017, 04:04:44 pm
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I've watched a lot of videos and read a bunch of posts last few weeks and still semi timid moving forward. Have a 60 in 1 board, panel has 1 joystick, three fire buttons, and a 1p and 2p button.
I feel I finally get the jamma thing. Top power wires go to the jamma harness, bottom goes to extension cord I cut up. Match up the rest and daisy chain the grounds.
The harness part with player 2 controls, do I need them, won't it be same as player 1? I noticed a test wire and service; I have two extra buttons do I need them to run the games?
What do I do with cords/wires I don't use or connect?
The action buttons are chrome with LED, guessing one side power and one side ground - where do I get extra daisy chains for power?
The power switch button, what connects to what from extension cord?
Know its a ton...just happy I made a cabinet - never made stuff before really...not even the birdhouse in school.
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panel has 1 joystick, three fire buttons, and a 1p and 2p button.
IIRC the 60-in-1 also needs a coin button to operate.
I feel I finally get the jamma thing. Top power wires go to the jamma harness, bottom goes to extension cord I cut up. Match up the rest and daisy chain the grounds.
The harness part with player 2 controls, do I need them, won't it be same as player 1?
With your panel, you can play 2-player alternating games (P1 then P2), but not 2-player simultaneous games. (both at the same time)
Not sure if there are any 2-player simultaneous games on the 60-in-1. :dunno
I noticed a test wire and service; I have two extra buttons do I need them to run the games?
No, you shouldn't need them.
What do I do with cords/wires I don't use or connect?
Bundle them neatly so they don't swing around and accidently short if you move the cabinet.
The action buttons are chrome with LED, guessing one side power and one side ground - where do I get extra daisy chains for power?
Yes. One side is power and the other is ground.
I usually orient the LED cathode (-) so it is connected to the QD tab on the side with the large black plastic tab (left button, lower right corner) -- you can use the "diode" setting on your multimeter to check.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=130140.0;attach=276836;image)
You can get 0.250" QD daisy chains at GGG (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=385) or Paradise Arcade Shop (https://paradisearcadeshop.com/harnesses/677-ez-led-wiring-harness.html).
The power switch button, what connects to what from extension cord?
What kind of switch? 3-tab? 4-tab? :dunno
Check out the wiring diagrams at https://web.archive.org/web/20150928061832/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Wiring#IEC_Fused_Power_Inlet_with_a_Lighted_Switch (https://web.archive.org/web/20150928061832/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Wiring#IEC_Fused_Power_Inlet_with_a_Lighted_Switch).
Your setup should be similar, except for the fuse and maybe the lamp.
Scott
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For the coin button - do I just add another button(s) to the top of panel and use them as coin buttons then? Currently didn't get a coin mech because was working with a lot of scrap. I have a spare green and a spare white fire button.
Do I need one for both player 1 and player 2 - wire slot 16 1 on each side or can they both go to same spare button?
Included a few photos.
Took Thursday and Friday off so I can try and have it playable by our 4th of July party Saturday....lots of folks excited about the idea of playing games they grew up on. Won't be perfect but if I get it running, sure it will be a hit.
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PL1 - can I just purchase 2 "Coin drop Replacement Pushbuttons" and wire the 1P and 2P coin to that?
Could get it but don't have an LED-Wiz so not sure which parts would connect where.
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You don't need an LED-Wiz. Those are if you want to control when the light is on/off. You can just wire the light directly to the power supply 5v and it will always be on.
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can I just purchase 2 "Coin drop Replacement Pushbuttons" and wire the 1P and 2P coin to that?
Could get it but don't have an LED-Wiz so not sure it'd work...
Like Slippy said, the Nova single-color CDRs will work just fine for your setup.
You don't need the LED-Wiz for the LEDs in these, just wire them for "always on" -- the power supply can handle the current draw with no problem.
Power Requirements:
Nova Single color: 100ma @ 5v DC Per button.
You can wire the LED wires from the CDR to either the 5v+Gnd daisy chains that then connect to the power supply or directly to the power supply, whichever is easier for you.
Do NOT remove the heat-shrink section of the wiring.
There is a current limiting resistor hiding under the shrink wrap.
One of the guys found this out the hard way a while back. ::)
Scott
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Ordered - will see what happens. Already can't wait for a build that doesn't need to be rushed.
Thanks for all the help, seems daunting at times. Just learned outlets a few months ago. Never had any work with this kind of stuff coming up.
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Once I have this "wired" can I take a photo and see if it looks right to all ya'all?
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Just learned outlets a few months ago. Never had any work with this kind of stuff coming up.
Since you mention being new to this, have you done a power-off resistance check on your power wiring from the wall-socket male plug to the input wires on the switching power supply?
Just one poor (high-resistance) connection in the power wiring could be . . . troublesome.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=302824;image)
This is why you always want clean, corrosion-free, mechanically-solid and low-resistance (<2 ohms) power connections.
Once I have this "wired" can I take a photo and see if it looks right to all ya'all?
Of course. ;D
Scott
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No, haven't done that and not even heard of it to be honest. Any links that might assist? I've rewired cords before without problems, wife tears em more than makes sense. Would I be making sure the cord is not too small or something?
Do have an electrical guy helping a bit Thurs or Fri though
Haven't hooked up any of the power parts yet - still a bit hesitant. Feel good about the basic idea on the harness to powet supply. Little less comfy on the switching button so still reading a bit.
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No, haven't done that and not even heard of it to be honest. Any links that might assist? I've rewired cords before without problems, wife tears em more than makes sense. Would I be making sure the cord is not too small or something?
You should be good.
Going through the list mentioned earlier:
1. Clean - Anything like dirt or oil that gets in the way can decrease the amount of connection which will make it harder for current to flow. (increased resistance)
2. Corrosion-free - Same as above.
3. Mechanically-solid - A solid connection decreases resistance by maximizing the amount of surface area contact.
Some people suggest using the "pull method" (hold the wire and pull on the QD) to test if a Quick Disconnect crimp is solid -- if the QD pulls off, re-crimp with a new QD.
I suggest using the "twist method" (hold the wire and try to twist the QD 1/4 turn) -- if the wire turns inside the QD re-crimp the QD.
4. Low-resistance (<2 ohms) - The resistance check is just a final quality control check to make sure that the power wiring connections are all good from the wall socket plug to the power supply.
To do the check:
- Unplug the cab from the wall socket
- Set the power rocker switch to the closed (on) position
- Set your meter to ohms
- Put one lead on the "hot" wall plug prong and the other lead on the power supply "hot/black" terminal. Check the reading.
- Put one lead on the "neutral" wall plug prong and the other lead on the power supply "neutral/white" terminal. Check the reading.
- Put one lead on the "ground" wall plug prong and the other lead on the power supply "ground/green" terminal. Check the reading.
Resistance converts electrical power into heat.
Too much can result in a runaway reaction.
More resistance causes more heat, which leads to more corrosion and/or decreased mechanical contact due to metal expansion, which leads to more resistance that causes more heat . . .
Scott
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http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=135519.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=135519.0)
Same idea I'm going to run with for getting power to the power supply. With the 3 open wires, do I just put them under the screws for attach to a spade terminal and wrap em a bit? How do I know what guage the inside wires are?
I've got a ton of 14g around the house so I could easily rip one and add a 15amp plug to one end and connect other to supply?
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panel has 1 joystick, three fire buttons, and a 1p and 2p button.
IIRC the 60-in-1 also needs a coin button to operate.
I feel I finally get the jamma thing. Top power wires go to the jamma harness, bottom goes to extension cord I cut up. Match up the rest and daisy chain the grounds.
The harness part with player 2 controls, do I need them, won't it be same as player 1?
With your panel, you can play 2-player alternating games (P1 then P2), but not 2-player simultaneous games. (both at the same time)
Not sure if there are any 2-player simultaneous games on the 60-in-1. :dunno
I noticed a test wire and service; I have two extra buttons do I need them to run the games?
No, you shouldn't need them.
What do I do with cords/wires I don't use or connect?
Bundle them neatly so they don't swing around and accidently short if you move the cabinet.
The action buttons are chrome with LED, guessing one side power and one side ground - where do I get extra daisy chains for power?
Yes. One side is power and the other is ground.
I usually orient the LED cathode (-) so it is connected to the QD tab on the side with the large black plastic tab (left button, lower right corner) -- you can use the "diode" setting on your multimeter to check.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=130140.0;attach=276836;image)
You can get 0.250" QD daisy chains at GGG (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=385) or Paradise Arcade Shop (https://paradisearcadeshop.com/harnesses/677-ez-led-wiring-harness.html).
The power switch button, what connects to what from extension cord?
What kind of switch? 3-tab? 4-tab? :dunno
Check out the wiring diagrams at https://web.archive.org/web/20150928061832/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Wiring#IEC_Fused_Power_Inlet_with_a_Lighted_Switch (https://web.archive.org/web/20150928061832/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Wiring#IEC_Fused_Power_Inlet_with_a_Lighted_Switch).
Your setup should be similar, except for the fuse and maybe the lamp.
Scott
To clarify a couple of things:
1) You don't need a coin switch if everything is free play
2) Service and test buttons are nice to have but not required. The 60-in-1 does use them to configure the board. If you leave them out you will need to manually flip dip sw 4 to configure the board.
3) 60-in-1 has 1943 which can be 2 player cooperative game.
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Flip dip? I can add a button in center top of board if the test is easier to configure compared to the dip n flip thingy.
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A dip switch is a tiny switch on the board that you flip with a small driver.
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Don't bother with a credit button. In the 60 in 1 settings you can set it for free play. You simply hit the start button and it will auto credit for you.
In the settings: Same for Player 2 controls. You can set it for two joysticks or both 1 and 2 players using joystick 1 (this is what you want).
DeL
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I ended up placing the order before I read the don't need a credit credit button if I intend to play for free.
My test button and two credit buttons will be here tomorrow afternoon.
Right now I'm still trying to understand the power switch button and basically can I cut a computer power cord to go to the arcade power supply and plug that into a surge protector inside the cabinet, cut the plug off of that and hook it into that power switch club which would then be on the outside of the cabinet so hopefully one wire goes from the cabinet to the wall.
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Right now I'm still trying to understand the power switch button and basically can I cut a computer power cord to go to the arcade power supply and plug that into a surge protector inside the cabinet, cut the plug off of that and hook it into that power switch club which would then be on the outside of the cabinet so hopefully one wire goes from the cabinet to the wall.
So you're saying that you want to plug an IEC power cord into the wall socket . . .
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31ilHjb3q1L.jpg)
. . . that connects to an IEC power inlet . . .
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/416cHdDqEkL._SY300_.jpg)
. . . that connects to a power strip (plug cut off and replaced by 1/4" Quick Disconnects that connect to the back of the inlet above) . . .
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31LmG7l1T0L._SY300_.jpg)
. . . then you connect a power cord from the power strip to the screw terminals of the switching power supply. (IEC connector cut off)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31ilHjb3q1L.jpg)
Sounds good. ;D
Scott
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Cut a computer cord and the colors are blue, light green, and brown/bronze....which one is what?
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Cut a computer cord and the colors are blue, light green, and brown/bronze....which one is what?
(http://www.rayfields.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Plug.gif)
Green - Earth Ground or middle prong
Blue - Neutral
Brown - Hot
(http://livingwithmyhome.com/images/article/PTP_Electrical_Outlet_Probl.jpg)
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Have power for the surge protector....progress 😀
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Wiring the harness...holy questions.
When applying the chain with the grounds, do all need to connect, example is I had to skip a connection cause of length. Also, when chain is finished and more remains, what to do with excess?
Questions on pin numbers....
10) speaker + and speaker - can I only run a single jamma speaker (have 2 4in ones) should i connect a quick dc to the speaker because the harness part is bare.
12/13) Seem like junk
14) gnd/service unused? Because it's missing the parts side wire
16) for the coin drop replacements I have, would these plug in there?
18-24 solder side...basically unused cause trackball
25 and 26....ton of wire without purpose?
27 and 28 say GND ...28 is the daisy chain. 27 on the other hand, could these work as the ground for the coin drop replacements?
Power side....i have a green wire for 5 with terminal fork...goes unused, do anything special with it?
3 small daisy chain style pieces any special use for them
What happens with parts I dont use....leave hanging, toss tape on ends, pull em, etc?
So close to being up and runnimg today. Guests get here in 8 hours so I'm trying.
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On phone and dont have a jamma diagram to hand so ile answer what I can.
The daisy chain ground does not matter if you miss qd's as long as they are all joined.
The excess you can cut off or i just tape them together for future use.
Speakers can be wired in parallel so you can use 2 speakers.
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Wired in parallel - tips?
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+ of speaker 1 joined to speaker 2, - of speaker 1 joined to 2 etc.
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Got ya, I'll give it a shot. My plan for unused wires is tape the ends so they don't short anything.
The coin door replacement piece has a red and black wire...which one goes where?
For the power supply can more than 1 wire go to the 5v, 12, etc?
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The coin door replacement piece has a red and black wire...which one goes where?
Red to 5v, black to ground -- standard DC wiring colors.
For the power supply can more than 1 wire go to the 5v, 12, etc?
Yes.
Scott
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Can I connect the ground pins on 27 to the CDR?
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Can I connect the ground pins on 27 to the CDR?
Seems like it would be easier to connect the red and black LED wires from the CDR to the 5v and ground screws on the power supply.
Power supply 5v terminal ---- red LED wire - LED - black LED wire ---- Power supply ground terminal
If you prefer, you can do it the hard way and solder the LED ground wire to pin 27 on the JAMMA connector as long as the original wire on pin 27 is still connected/jumpered to ground on the power supply. (Same applies for 5v and JAMMA pins 3, 4, C, or D)
Power supply 5v ---- JAMMA 5v ---- red LED wire - LED - black LED wire ---- JAMMA ground ---- Power supply ground
The microswitch NO tab should go to pin 16-Coin 1 (or pin T-Coin 2) and the COM tab should connect to the daisy-chain ground like the other buttons. (or run a separate ground wire if the daisy-chain won't reach)
Scott
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The plus 5 or minus 5?
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I have video, and lights on all buttons.
No buttons working from what I can tell
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Minus sound, think I'm about there
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Thanks everyone for all the help, game is up and running with sound!
Any method to reduce how loud it is, wife is tossin a fit already.
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The plus 5 or minus 5?
The standard answer is +5v, but either one can "forward bias" (light) the LED as long as the voltage on the red wire (anode) is around 5v higher than the voltage on black wire. (cathode) >:D
Red wire to +5, black wire to ground (0v) = 5v forward bias = LED lights
Red wire to ground, black wire to -5v = 5v forward bias = LED lights
Red wire to 12v, black wire to 7v = 5v forward bias = LED lights
Red wire to ground, black wire to 5v = 5v reverse bias = LED does not light
Red wire to -5v, black wire to ground = 5v reverse bias = LED does not light
Scott
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Volume figured out, now she's playing Frogger 😁
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Great stuff :)
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This site is loaded with information. I'll have a bunch of lessons learned soon but any advised readings if the next thing we want is a game that can play games with light gun like Area 51, House of the Dead, and so on?
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We are in the process of getting a dedicated gun forum but atm its unifficial home is in the racing forum.