Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: thepro8 on May 15, 2017, 01:16:13 pm
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Maybe I was expecting too little and my personality is to to spend the money to do things right. I was thinking I could use an existing monitor, Rasberry Pi 3, spend a few hundred on controls, a hundred on wood and call it quits.
My project has run away from me.
Wood: $150
Controls: $550
Speakers: $50
Computer: $200 (just for ram, I got an Intel skull canyon and 1TB SSD free)
TV: $350 (samsung 40")
Glass: $120
Total: $1420
Also picked up some tools to help, but won't count that in the expense.
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I don't even want to think about what mine has cost me, for example I've spent enough on buttons right now for a special purpose that I should have just broke down an bought a 40 dollar Atari Cone button which is what I was trying to avoid....
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Sounds about right. Controls make up half the cost of my next build too. (Although screens only cost £11 😀)
Factoring in wood/Perspex/t moulding/ artwork and things start to spiral... yolo as the kids say nowadays
Harvey - i managed to get 3 fully working lit cone buttons for that. Took me a year after the project was finished tho...
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While it does usually run away somewhat - your choices kind of waste quite a bit of that -- ie. 32GB. of ddr3 2133mhz. Ram is overkill and will never be used (16 would have been overkill and even 8 would suffice) - no reason to spend that much on a brand new 40" smart TV when using in an arcade as the smart tv aspects will never be used. And I assume most of the $550 for controls was for getting the 2 guns and needed parts to get a couple games working ( whether that $ is worth the investment depends on how much you really wanted to play gun games ) :dunno
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Original outlay was $2K for me. And that is not including the computer & monitor which came from an older re-purposed PC. CP alone was $600. Add in the 'puter cost and some of the stuff I added in later, I'd say $3000 is a good guess for a cab built with all premium parts and no scrounging around.
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I buy everything slowly so it doesnt seem like i spent alot. Ball buster is pushing $500 but i never spent more than $40 in one week.
I've spent the last couple months slowly buying parts for my next cab.
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I don't have mine build yet, but I am in for about 1300 with tv. you can save some money using the Raspberry Pi for your computer. All in package for 75 bucks
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You can buy a used PC that runs MAME better than the Pi for 50 to 200 bucks. It also works with a lot less fiddling around unless you are proficient with Linux.
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I agree, especially in the case of a first-time builder, it's easy to convince yourself that the project will cost a certain amount of money, that you end up overshooting by a wide margin due to things you either underestimate or completely forget to account for--tools, paint supplies, fasteners, brackets, mistakes that need a do-over, shipping costs, cables, wires, connectors, adapters, power strips, artwork, etc. Oh, and whatever time budget you set aside to execute the project in all of its aspects, multiply it by 10-20 and you might be in the right ballpark.
It's still fun, though.
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While it does usually run away somewhat - your choices kind of waste quite a bit of that -- ie. 32GB. of ddr3 2133mhz. Ram is overkill and will never be used (16 would have been overkill and even 8 would suffice) - no reason to spend that much on a brand new 40" smart TV when using in an arcade as the smart tv aspects will never be used. And I assume most of the $550 for controls was for getting the 2 guns and needed parts to get a couple games working ( whether that $ is worth the investment depends on how much you really wanted to play gun games ) :dunno
the 32gb ram is so I can can use the computer for other purposes (server).
I love gun games. Police trainer was my favorite so I figures I'd get the guns.
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While it does usually run away somewhat - your choices kind of waste quite a bit of that -- ie. 32GB. of ddr3 2133mhz. Ram is overkill and will never be used (16 would have been overkill and even 8 would suffice) - no reason to spend that much on a brand new 40" smart TV when using in an arcade as the smart tv aspects will never be used. And I assume most of the $550 for controls was for getting the 2 guns and needed parts to get a couple games working ( whether that $ is worth the investment depends on how much you really wanted to play gun games ) :dunno
the 32gb ram is so I can can use the computer for other purposes (server).
I love gun games. Police trainer was my favorite so I figures I'd get the guns.
Figured as much - so are those costs fair to figure in your build ?? -- the Ram as you say is for getting other uses out of it so aren't really part of "The Build" and guns well those are "extras" that you might as well include since you will get more out of the build :laugh2: :cheers:
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Buying tools was expensive and I let the computer build get away from me. It would have been cheaper to buy a custom arcade but I have enjoyed it to much.
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I have had multiple builds with a negative total cost, most of the rest were under $400 and I have one that is well into four figures.
The most important thing is knowing how to do the most you can for your budget and not to waste money needlessly.
The biggest examples I see where money is just lit on fire is in the area of the computer system itself. The computer is likely the only component you are ever going to replace in your machine. You can't future proof it, and a brand new $1000 system only has marginally more utility for emulation than something you can pick out of the trash. My $2000 cabinet is still running a PC from 2002. Go cheap on the PC, you will replace it later. Also, you don't want to try to make it double down as something else, your cabinet shouldn't even have an internet connection at all, much less be serving files.
Also, basically don't upgrade any software ever. You go to newer versions when you replace the computer. Updating almost guarantees that your perfectly working system will eventually be choking and skipping frames.
Interface hardware. Buy quality the first time, buy a Keywiz or an Ipac the first time and you will likely never replace it.
Controls. Don't buy cheap crap. If you don't know what to buy there is a pretty easy rule of thumb. If you worship Japan, watch anime, and/or are involved in the competitive fighting game scene then you will want geniune Sanwa gear. If the above doesn't describe you and you are under 42 then you will probably be happiest with American style controls from Happ and iL, I suggest the Happ Super and their standard horizontal pushbutton. If you are 42 or older then you will probably be happiest with leaf switch buttons and joysticks. You can either source vintage controls or get the new ones from our favorite vendors. Those are the controls you are likely already used to using, and thus will feel best for you. Whatever you do, don't buy vaguely branded Chinese controls.
Monitors, all the widescreen LCDs in the world doesn't change the fact that everything you emulate is 4:3 and had graphics written with a CRT in mind, and controls that weren't written with display lag in mind. I have 21 monitors installed between 20 machines and every single one of them is a 4:3 CRT. I keep my widescreen LCD on my desk where it belongs. Don't waste your money on an LCD when you can still find CRTs.
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Amen brother. :notworthy:
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Some people start with the basics. Buy an old empty cabinet (without beer cans and cat ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- in it), buy a TV from the thrift store, get an old Xbox and stick CoinOPS on it or a Pi3 for near $100. Obtain a KADE or similar encoder with two joys & button kit when you start getting tired of using a console controller.
Play around with it, and if you catch the bug, you start upgrading everything. Sky is the limit.
It is like having the train set you had when you was a kid. You get it out of the box, set it up, play with it for a while, and then you get a bigger board, add some track, trees, trestles, etc. Well, $500 later you have a pretty good layout and play with it for a few weeks in your man cave. Either you get hooked on it and expand the layout to your basement or give up and sell it to the kid across the street.
You could have just added some track for $50 and called it a day. Nope you go the whole hog. We all do, because we can. ;D
Reading your post sounds like the $500 train set, not the old cabinet route. IF you have money to burn, good. You can get the same satisfaction from $100 than you could for the $1420.
When you get tired of playing the cab, you can still sell it to the kid across the street for a profit. ;)
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Its all the small stuff that kills me. Things like hinges. wire clips, brackets, bondo, ect... :dizzy: Hell, I spent $16 yesterday for some stupid machine screws and nuts to hold in some wire screen. It just all adds up.
Working on my 5th cab and was trying to keep track then just gave up. :angry:
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Tools can be a lot of expense if you are building just one machine. Slot cutters for example, I just need one to build one slot, probably never going to use it again, but i need it.
I've built it gradually so the expense has been spent along the way, i may do a count up one day, maybe.
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I don't even bother to keep track of stuff like that. If I need to stick to a tight budget, I shouldn't be in this Hobby.
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Its all the small stuff that kills me. Things like hinges. wire clips, brackets, bondo, ect... :dizzy: Hell, I spent $16 yesterday for some stupid machine screws and nuts to hold in some wire screen. It just all adds up.
Working on my 5th cab and was trying to keep track then just gave up. :angry:
I spent 20 bucks just to replace the screws in my Air Combat. It was well worth it, mind you, but still feels kind of funny.
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The biggest examples I see where money is just lit on fire is in the area of the computer system itself. The computer is likely the only component you are ever going to replace in your machine. You can't future proof it, and a brand new $1000 system only has marginally more utility for emulation than something you can pick out of the trash. My $2000 cabinet is still running a PC from 2002. Go cheap on the PC, you will replace it later. Also, you don't want to try to make it double down as something else, your cabinet shouldn't even have an internet connection at all, much less be serving files.
Also, basically don't upgrade any software ever. You go to newer versions when you replace the computer. Updating almost guarantees that your perfectly working system will eventually be choking and skipping frames.
Interface hardware. Buy quality the first time, buy a Keywiz or an Ipac the first time and you will likely never replace it.
Controls. Don't buy cheap crap. If you don't know what to buy there is a pretty easy rule of thumb. If you worship Japan, watch anime, and/or are involved in the competitive fighting game scene then you will want geniune Sanwa gear. If the above doesn't describe you and you are under 42 then you will probably be happiest with American style controls from Happ and iL, I suggest the Happ Super and their standard horizontal pushbutton. If you are 42 or older then you will probably be happiest with leaf switch buttons and joysticks. You can either source vintage controls or get the new ones from our favorite vendors. Those are the controls you are likely already used to using, and thus will feel best for you. Whatever you do, don't buy vaguely branded Chinese controls.
Monitors, all the widescreen LCDs in the world doesn't change the fact that everything you emulate is 4:3 and had graphics written with a CRT in mind, and controls that weren't written with display lag in mind. I have 21 monitors installed between 20 machines and every single one of them is a 4:3 CRT. I keep my widescreen LCD on my desk where it belongs. Don't waste your money on an LCD when you can still find CRTs.
I'm quoting this because it is full of the same old advice and it still applies. The one area where I now give myself some leeway is monitors -- I am happy enough to drop in an LCD if I have one that fits.
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No doubt the cost on these things will run away from ya! :)
From experimenting with different products, trial and error, and just plain oh I want to change that now..LOL, In my case $3600 later you have a finished project :laugh2:
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While it does usually run away somewhat - your choices kind of waste quite a bit of that -- ie. 32GB. of ddr3 2133mhz. Ram is overkill and will never be used (16 would have been overkill and even 8 would suffice) - no reason to spend that much on a brand new 40" smart TV when using in an arcade as the smart tv aspects will never be used. And I assume most of the $550 for controls was for getting the 2 guns and needed parts to get a couple games working ( whether that $ is worth the investment depends on how much you really wanted to play gun games ) :dunno
the 32gb ram is so I can can use the computer for other purposes (server).
I love gun games. Police trainer was my favorite so I figures I'd get the guns.
??? I think I paid about $500 for my gun hardware alone. That's the cost of 2 aimtraks, recoil kits, and used namco guns (or new knockoffs). I also spent about $500 more on the standard controls. I went with a 4-player RGB setup with u360's, plus a trackball.
I agree though, the cost can be a killer. The thing about this hobby is that you can scale up or down pretty well. I could have totally gotten less extravagant stuff, but I wanted mine to look pretty and work with console games. Building it is half the fun IMO.
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While it does usually run away somewhat - your choices kind of waste quite a bit of that -- ie. 32GB. of ddr3 2133mhz. Ram is overkill and will never be used (16 would have been overkill and even 8 would suffice) - no reason to spend that much on a brand new 40" smart TV when using in an arcade as the smart tv aspects will never be used. And I assume most of the $550 for controls was for getting the 2 guns and needed parts to get a couple games working ( whether that $ is worth the investment depends on how much you really wanted to play gun games ) :dunno
the 32gb ram is so I can can use the computer for other purposes (server).
I love gun games. Police trainer was my favorite so I figures I'd get the guns.
??? I think I paid about $500 for my gun hardware alone. That's the cost of 2 aimtraks, recoil kits, and used namco guns (or new knockoffs). I also spent about $500 more on the standard controls. I went with a 4-player RGB setup with u360's, plus a trackball.
I agree though, the cost can be a killer. The thing about this hobby is that you can scale up or down pretty well. I could have totally gotten less extravagant stuff, but I wanted mine to look pretty and work with console games. Building it is half the fun IMO.
This is where sometimes it makes more sense just to buy another machine, $500 will buy an Area 51/Max Force combo to sit next to your mame cabinet, which should be all the gun action you need.
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I don't even want to think about what mine has cost me, for example I've spent enough on buttons right now for a special purpose that I should have just broke down an bought a 40 dollar Atari Cone button which is what I was trying to avoid....
Whoa. Those suckers are up to $40 a pop?! Glad I bought in at $15!
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I don't even want to think about what mine has cost me, for example I've spent enough on buttons right now for a special purpose that I should have just broke down an bought a 40 dollar Atari Cone button which is what I was trying to avoid....
Whoa. Those suckers are up to $40 a pop?! Glad I bought in at $15!
I would drill out a Missile Command for standard leaf buttons before paying $45 a button, and I am a purist.
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I got like 10 surplus Atari cone buttons. I'm hoarding those bad boys.
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Arcade projects are a typical example of the law of diminishing returns :
(http://www.wearethepractitioners.com/images/default-source/the-practitioner/law-of-diminishing-returns.png)
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Some ideas are better on paper, which increases costs. For example, I have controller hookups for all Nintendo systems on the side of my cabinet. Looks cool but hardly utilized. Same goes for the light guns I had on my last cab. You need to decide if you really want to play the cab or just spent time and money building it. If you want to play it, give me money for my cab, save time, and enjoy playing, lol.
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I am probably the posterboy for runaway projects. I am on the 3rd iteration of my modular panel cab, and it has been an ongoing project for over 10 years now. I know I was over $6000 into it a few years ago. I am now considering a new computer and TV for it as well. It has been a fun hobby for a decade though, so I can't complain.
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500 on controls?
my first build, i paid 40 on 2 sanwa joysticks, 30 on a bunch of buttons, and a 19" lcd for 10,-
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1 x AimTrak Light Gun Boxed Black
16 x Classic Pushbuttons from Happ Controls.
2 x Classic Pushbuttons from Happ Controls.
1 x I-PAC Ultimate I/O Interface. Board only
2 x ServoStik
1 x ServoStik Control Board
1 x Start Logo Pushbuttons Black.
1 x Start Logo Pushbuttons Black.2 x Classic Pushbuttons from Happ Controls.
1 x Optional Trim Bezel for U-Trak
1 x U-TRAK FlushMount Arcade Trackball.
1 x U-Trak RGB LED Illumination Kit
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500 on controls?
my first build, i paid 40 on 2 sanwa joysticks, 30 on a bunch of buttons, and a 19" lcd for 10,-
$300 - 2 perfect 360 joysticks with Repro Robotron handles.
$125 - 3" translucent Happ trackballs.
$425 right there, without getting into the spinner, 4-way or any of the buttons.
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Just like any hobby out there - the sky is the limit. There will always be people doing budget builds alongside people doing spared no expense builds. Sometimes it's about having the right controls like in Paige's example and sometimes it's about the screens, full side art or RGB buttons. We all have our own ideas about what makes a build great. It's really why I like it around here.
:cheers:
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Yeah, I think it's easy to start spending a lot of money on something once you get into it.
When I built my TMNT cab, I thought it wouldn't be too much (since I already had a CRT and the game PCB.) Just some wood and controls, right? Even without the replacement CRT I had to buy, it still came to around $1150!
Below my profile pic, you might notice it says "Robotics". Who knows how much I've invested in my robot hobby over the years. I have lots of robots, from a Hero 1 to a Roomba 880. Lots of kits I've built too (I've got a hexapod one I still need to fix...). And I have boxes of spare parts (some of which get used in my arcade stuff, so it works out some.)
Another hobby I have is freshwater aquariums. I have a 29 gallon tank with live plants, dwarf crayfish, cardinal tetras, plattys. Did a major overhaul on it a few months ago, and spent some good coin on new plant substrate (the dirt in the bottom), new plants, a better filter, upgraded to new hood and LED light, aquarium plant fertilizer, and more. Plus, I'm planning on getting a $300 pressurized CO2 system for my tank (mixes a small amount of CO2 into the water. It's good for the plants [photosynthesis]. In fact, some aquatic plants absolutely need CO2 in the water.)
Finally, I recently started getting into drones (quadcopters). I have a nice Zerotech Dobby: a simple drone I control from my phone for only $350 (hey, that is cheap for a drone!) Part of me, though, wants to run out and get a DJI Mavic Pro drone, which goes for $999 new (check the reviews, its a great drone.) I'm trying to resist, though. (not because of cost. I can afford it. But I live within 5 miles of a Navy jet base, and there are strict rules about flying these. The Dobby I can fly in my house or back lawn. The Mavic Pro...I'd want to go fly it out in a huge open field without worry.)
Anyway, the point is, all hobbies can get expensive. There are ways to cut costs, but you'll end up spending that money on another part of that project. I bet even stamp collectors have spent too much money on their stuff.
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Yeah, I think it's easy to start spending a lot of money on something once you get into it.
When I built my TMNT cab, I thought it wouldn't be too much (since I already had a CRT and the game PCB.) Just some wood and controls, right? Even without the replacement CRT I had to buy, it still came to around $1150!
Below my profile pic, you might notice it says "Robotics". Who knows how much I've invested in my robot hobby over the years. I have lots of robots, from a Hero 1 to a Roomba 880. Lots of kits I've built too (I've got a hexapod one I still need to fix...). And I have boxes of spare parts (some of which get used in my arcade stuff, so it works out some.)
Another hobby I have is freshwater aquariums. I have a 29 gallon tank with live plants, dwarf crayfish, cardinal tetras, plattys. Did a major overhaul on it a few months ago, and spent some good coin on new plant substrate (the dirt in the bottom), new plants, a better filter, upgraded to new hood and LED light, aquarium plant fertilizer, and more. Plus, I'm planning on getting a $300 pressurized CO2 system for my tank (mixes a small amount of CO2 into the water. It's good for the plants [photosynthesis]. In fact, some aquatic plants absolutely need CO2 in the water.)
Finally, I recently started getting into drones (quadcopters). I have a nice Zerotech Dobby: a simple drone I control from my phone for only $350 (hey, that is cheap for a drone!) Part of me, though, wants to run out and get a DJI Mavic Pro drone, which goes for $999 new (check the reviews, its a great drone.) I'm trying to resist, though. (not because of cost. I can afford it. But I live within 5 miles of a Navy jet base, and there are strict rules about flying these. The Dobby I can fly in my house or back lawn. The Mavic Pro...I'd want to go fly it out in a huge open field without worry.)
Anyway, the point is, all hobbies can get expensive. There are ways to cut costs, but you'll end up spending that money on another part of that project. I bet even stamp collectors have spent too much money on their stuff.
Yeah I did saltwater fish...not cheap.
Still my most ridiculous hobby was Sportbike racing. Easily $1k a day to race.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Half the reason I bought my house was to do work making custom controls. So if Don't think about it. It's my hobby. I do the work to keep me sane not to save money.