The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Ninja69Assassin on March 25, 2017, 02:38:43 pm
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Good morning everyone!
Name is Michael, I'm a total DIY misfit and going to attempt to build a 60-n-1 arcade machine. I have a few questions I'm trying to nail down in a single post.
Currently, I'm going with a 8 way zippy stick, 3 button (red,yellow, blue) 2 player start buttons, a 2.25 trackball, and a 19in 4:3 lcd monitor - something from Dell.
Questions I'm trying to narrow down...
The control panel, I've managed to figure out the buttons and stick but can't figure out the way to flush the trackball. Is there an ideal thickness I should use for control board? Using 3/4 ply on rest of cabinet. With 3/4inch the buttons do okay and the joystick is okay (short but okay) - darn ball in a ball is a headache.
Where is the world is the power switch on the 60-n-1 jamma power supply piece? I'm feeling like I need a plug to go into a wall somewhere...
Bezel...under or over the plexiglass - been seeing information all over the map on this one.
Angle of the monitor? Going upright cabinet, 23inches wide not including 3/4 in sides.
Any opening help is welcome - been watching boards for awhile and jumping off now!
Photos is all of me randomly seeing how it goes. When I said a DIY misfit....I was not kidding. Just cutting a line straight is a problem for me....no woodshop in HS, office job, etc.
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1. It's a 60in1... don't bother with a ---smurfing--- trackball.
B. There are a variety of power supplies you could use with a 60in1. Post a pic of yours.
Third - It's your build, do what you want.
Precisely 33 1/3 degrees. No more. No less. Don't ---fudgesicle--- this up.
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The control panel, I've managed to figure out the buttons and stick but can't figure out the way to flush the trackball. Is there an ideal thickness I should use for control board? Using 3/4 ply on rest of cabinet. With 3/4inch the buttons do okay and the joystick is okay (short but okay) - darn ball in a ball is a headache.
Since you mention it being 23" wide - you could buy a metal Control panel made for a 60in1 type setup for about $35 shipped ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multicade-Control-Panel-w-2-1-4-trackball-hole-f-Pacman-Galaga-Arcades-More-/331157615590?hash=item4d1a8833e6 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multicade-Control-Panel-w-2-1-4-trackball-hole-f-Pacman-Galaga-Arcades-More-/331157615590?hash=item4d1a8833e6) ) Since the trackball is designed for a metal CP and this would also fix the joystick depth !
Specs from listing :
- Trackball size 2 1/4 Inches , no adapter plate needed for Happ 2-1/4 Inch trackballs PN: 56-5500-11
- 23 Inches Wide panel
- uses standard size ball top joysticks
- Extra button holes for multi game play
- Durable Powder Coating finish
- 16 Gage steel design
Dimentions: 23 Inches wide by 6-7/8 deep (584mm by 175mm)
Shipping wieght 6 Lbs.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/LNUAAOSw5dNWjn8-/s-l400.jpg)
Where is the world is the power switch on the 60-n-1 jamma power supply piece? I'm feeling like I need a plug to go into a wall somewhere...
The Power supply is the thing that plugs into the wall and th +12V and +5V lines from it go to the Jamma connector !
Bezel...under or over the plexiglass - been seeing information all over the map on this one.
Usually Under !
Angle of the monitor? Going upright cabinet, 23inches wide not including 3/4 in sides.
Up to you as it will vary depending on height of cab and placement of monitor - Just test mount and adjust to get a good viewing angle.
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Okay, so I probably need to buy another part because nothing I have included in the package has any shot of plugging into a wall.
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Okay, so I probably need to buy another part because nothing I have included in the package has any shot of plugging into a wall.
You just need to cut an extension cord ( to use the wall plug and then attach the 3 wires from the extension cord to the Power supply inputs - then the Power Supply +12V and +5V wires go to the 60in1 through the Jamma connector.
FOr example this power supply you would connect the 3 extnsion cord lines to the bottom 3 connections labelled ( FG AC/N and AC/L )
FG is Field Ground
AC/N and AC/L are the other 2 inputs (live/hot and nuetral)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/zu8AAOSw7NNUEwlN/s-l400.jpg)
(http://www.tangible-technology.com/power/p2/7_outlet_wiring.jpg)
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Okay, so I probably need to buy another part because nothing I have included in the package has any shot of plugging into a wall.
Like JDFan said, connect a standard electrical cord to the AC and FG screws near the bottom of your power supply.
- Black wire = hot
- White wire = neutral
- Green wire = ground (connect to FG)
"FG" = field ground/frame ground = ground your metal parts (coin door, trackball frame, etc.) here to prevent static buildup and possible ElectroStatic Discharge (ESD) damage to your electronic parts.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51td28uj9KL._AC_US327_QL65_.jpg)
Scott
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I see, I've got so much more to learn but think I've found the right place.
Not trying to be that guy, but this is all foreign and when I think I get it, I lose it. I kept seeing power on button like the photo and had a different expectation of how it'd hook up.
I run the power to this thing and a cord from this thingy to the wall - got it :)
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I run the power to this thing and a cord from this thingy to the wall - got it :)
That's called an IEC power inlet.
Read more about how to wire it and what type of fuse you need at https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20150928061832/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com:80/index.php?title=Wiring#IEC_Fused_Power_Inlet_with_a_Lighted_Switch (https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20150928061832/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com:80/index.php?title=Wiring#IEC_Fused_Power_Inlet_with_a_Lighted_Switch).
The wall outlet to IEC power inlet cable comes in on the left side of this diagram (Socket) and the right side goes to your switching power supply. (Cabinet Power)
(https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20150928061832im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com:80/images/thumb/0/0c/IEC3PinSwitchWiring.jpg/420px-IEC3PinSwitchWiring.jpg)
(https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20150928061832im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com:80/images/thumb/5/54/IEC3PinSwitchRear.jpg/240px-IEC3PinSwitchRear.jpg)
Scott
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Those 60-n-1 use 4 way controlled games. Don't get the 8 way joystick - get a 4-way.
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Those 60-n-1 use 4 way controlled games. Don't get the 8 way joystick - get a 4-way.
Have you tried playing Scramble with a 4-way?
I guess people giving advice like this is why the only times I've actually seen 4-way sticks have been in completely inappropriate cases like this one.
I've seen very pretty cocktail tables, where clearly a lot of love has been put into the actually table, inexplicably running these god-awful 60-in-1 boards, and even more inexplicably with 4 way sticks thrown in them, presumably because somebody designing the cabinet for mass production thought they were more 'retro' when really those sticks only apply to a small subset of the games. Almost as if aesthetics, and 'retro-ness' trumped playability in the design process, clearly no understanding of the actual games.
The 60-in-1 etc. stuff is junk, but making it unplayable junk while still taking money off people is an extra level of scamming them.
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I have found the more honest builders install the 4-way and then turn off the 8-way and analog games. Those games are fewer in number and have more sound issues than the 4-way ones do.
Those 60-n-1 use 4 way controlled games. Don't get the 8 way joystick - get a 4-way.
Have you tried playing Scramble with a 4-way?
I guess people giving advice like this is why the only times I've actually seen 4-way sticks have been in completely inappropriate cases like this one.
I've seen very pretty cocktail tables, where clearly a lot of love has been put into the actually table, inexplicably running these god-awful 60-in-1 boards, and even more inexplicably with 4 way sticks thrown in them, presumably because somebody designing the cabinet for mass production thought they were more 'retro' when really those sticks only apply to a small subset of the games. Almost as if aesthetics, and 'retro-ness' trumped playability in the design process, clearly no understanding of the actual games.
The 60-in-1 etc. stuff is junk, but making it unplayable junk while still taking money off people is an extra level of scamming them.
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I'm learning a lot in a short amount of time. Didn't like first cabinet I cut so I did it over, like this one more - debating what size monitor to put in in though.
Any good links to the montior backing, mounting, and covering? Putting pieces together but information overload.
Few new progress pics also. Next piece I'm doing is cutting front, back, and panel. I've used 3/4 ply so far...thinking of 1/4 for rear to save weight - thoughts? Also, I've read posts on using a router to mount the joystick or trackball....is that regular or plunge router?
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Lets talk about weight savings.
I am a 380 fat dude that has a pretty bad limp.
I could carry a plywood cabinet with an LCD down the basement steps by my self. Any 2 random 13 year old boys could bring it up or down, no problem. No need to try to cut weight by skimping on the back panel.
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The 60-in-1 etc. stuff is junk, but making it unplayable junk while still taking money off people is an extra level of scamming them.
I don't think Haze is far off the mark here regarding playability.
I run two 60-in-1s -- one classic 4-way Wico only and one 8-way Wico with trackball.
If I had to choose between them, I'd choose the 8-way with trackball without much hesitation.
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I am a 380 fat dude that has a pretty bad limp.
Have you gained 150 pounds in the last 10 years??
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I am a 380 fat dude that has a pretty bad limp.
Have you gained 150 pounds in the last 10 years??
I think you should bet him $20 to lose it, and not pay him afterwards. :lol
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You didn't actually lose it.
:cheers:
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You didn't actually lose it.
:cheers:
I did at the time, but unfortunately crept back on. Next time I should read the fine print on your offers. :lol
380 is easy to lose, but must put a toll on your heart.
Why a 60 in one? Why not a cheap PC and some legal roms?
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Dave Foley is your man. He will get you some low cost legal games.
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Basically yes.
I am a 380 fat dude that has a pretty bad limp.
Have you gained 150 pounds in the last 10 years??
I think you should bet him $20 to lose it, and not pay him afterwards. :lol
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I guess people giving advice like this is why the only times I've actually seen 4-way sticks have been in completely inappropriate cases like this one.
I've seen very pretty cocktail tables, where clearly a lot of love has been put into the actually table, inexplicably running these god-awful 60-in-1 boards, and even more inexplicably with 4 way sticks thrown in them, presumably because somebody designing the cabinet for mass production thought they were more 'retro' when really those sticks only apply to a small subset of the games. Almost as if aesthetics, and 'retro-ness' trumped playability in the design process, clearly no understanding of the actual games.
The 60-in-1 etc. stuff is junk, but making it unplayable junk while still taking money off people is an extra level of scamming them.
I've played a few 60-in-1 machines out in the wild and I have always been a bit taken aback by how bloody awful they are compared to playing on my MAME cabinet at home. Crappy sounds, glitchy games, and yes, 4-way sticks paired with game lists containing lots of 8-way titles.
Next piece I'm doing is cutting front, back, and panel. I've used 3/4 ply so far...thinking of 1/4 for rear to save weight - thoughts?
Not a very good idea, IMO, especially for the back panel. The back is structurally quite important, to keep the cabinet sturdy. With a flimsy 1/4" back, I'd be worried about the cabinet being wobbly. On that note, don't forget to glue-and-screw during assembly.
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Basically yes.
Ouch, man. That midwest food scene is brutal. I crept up over 300 when I lived in St. Louis. :embarassed:
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Dave Foley is your man. He will get you some low cost legal games.
I LOLed
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Those 60-n-1 use 4 way controlled games. Don't get the 8 way joystick - get a 4-way.
Have you tried playing Scramble with a 4-way?
I guess people giving advice like this is why the only times I've actually seen 4-way sticks have been in completely inappropriate cases like this one.
I've seen very pretty cocktail tables, where clearly a lot of love has been put into the actually table, inexplicably running these god-awful 60-in-1 boards, and even more inexplicably with 4 way sticks thrown in them, presumably because somebody designing the cabinet for mass production thought they were more 'retro' when really those sticks only apply to a small subset of the games. Almost as if aesthetics, and 'retro-ness' trumped playability in the design process, clearly no understanding of the actual games.
The 60-in-1 etc. stuff is junk, but making it unplayable junk while still taking money off people is an extra level of scamming them.
You make a good point in that not all the games on a 60-n-1 are 4 way games, but nearly half are. Only a dozen are so are 8 ways. The rest use 2 way and a couple use trackball. If anything, a "small subset" is for 8 way games.
See how I said that without sounding like an ass? Take notes Haze. I don't think it was completely inappropriate advice. I think it was advice given with me making some assumptions in that he wants to play 4 way classics.
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Basically yes.
Ouch, man. That midwest food scene is brutal. I crept up over 300 when I lived in St. Louis. :embarassed:
50 of it happened when I met my wife and quit smoking, the other hundred came when I went from being an active hotel maintenance man who walked up and down hallways all day long to a stay at home father.
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Dave Foley is your man. He will get you some low cost legal games.
I LOLed
It is one of my most favorite ark-isms to date.