Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: BazookaJo on February 28, 2017, 02:37:06 am
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Hi guys
Struggling to keep my Atari StarWars machine up and running - it's age and condition aren't great, and every time I get it fixed, a few months later something else goes wrong, and given I have no electronics skills it's all ££££.
The result is that I'm seriously thinking about converting the cab to a Mame i.e. packing the vector monitor away and running the game via a PC.
So given my limited electronics skills, what would be the easiest way to attach the yoke to a PC for MAME use?
Big thanks in advance
Joe.
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So given my limited electronics skills, what would be the easiest way to attach the yoke to a PC for MAME use?
If your skillset doesn't include soldering, consider Ultimarc's A-PAC (http://www.ultimarc.com/a-pac.html) or U-HID (http://www.u-hid.com/home/overview_board.php). (not enough pins on the U-HID Nano for the pots, triggers, thumb buttons, and coin switches)
If you can solder, check out this tutorial (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134781.msg1542677.html#msg1542677).
Either way, please consider making a Molex adapter cable (Step 7 of the tutorial) so you don't have to hack the yoke harness to connect to whichever encoder you choose.
Scott
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The cheapest and flexible way is the use of an arduino leonardo (or pro micro) board.
Start soldering if you wanna exit the "arcade issues = money loss" tunnel 
please do make only reversible mods to your cabinet or you will be sorry about it
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Cheers Scott
Those would be ideal and don't worry with, as you say use a molex connector :)
I'm sure there are cheaper options but if i factor in my time its a bargain...
So given my limited electronics skills, what would be the easiest way to attach the yoke to a PC for MAME use?
If your skillset doesn't include soldering, consider Ultimarc's A-PAC (http://www.ultimarc.com/a-pac.html) or U-HID (http://www.u-hid.com/home/overview_board.php). (not enough pins on the U-HID Nano for the pots, triggers, thumb buttons, and coin switches)
If you can solder, check out this tutorial (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134781.msg1542677.html#msg1542677).
Either way, please consider making a Molex adapter cable (Step 7 of the tutorial) so you don't have to hack the yoke harness to connect to whichever encoder you choose.
Scott
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That said, is there any advantage of one over the other A-PAC/U-HID/Kadestick i.e. performance-wise?
Cheers Scott
Those would be ideal and don't worry with, as you say use a molex connector :)
I'm sure there are cheaper options but if i factor in my time its a bargain...
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is there any advantage of one over the other A-PAC/U-HID/Kadestick i.e. performance-wise?
Haven't done a side-by-side comparison. :dunno
Haven't had any issues with KADESTICK and haven't read of any issues with A-PAC or U-HID.
There are differences in price and features.
U-HID is more flexible -- it can do gamepad buttons, keystrokes, mouse buttons, etc.
A-PAC and KADESTICK can do gamepad buttons.
If you've got to have keystrokes, you can either get the U-HID or hook up two encoders, analog and keyboard.
If you go with two encoders, that adds U-HID Nano as an option.
Scott