Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Javedisian12 on February 24, 2017, 11:06:33 pm
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Hi, I picked up a 2005 golden tee arcade game today and the guy claimed it booted up and worked but we couldn't test it out because it was cold in his garage and damp. He did say he'd give me my money back if it didn't work but I only paid 80 dollars for it so I would like to see if it is something I can fix for cheap before I ask for my money back.
At first it says it cannot find the hard drive then it goes to another screen and says it cannot detect a dial tone for the modem and the card reader fails as well. So then it resets.
I attached the screen below before it resets. Please help!
Thank you
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u mind flipping that picture and do not do it under floresent lights
i can not quite read it..
from what i see try powering off and gentley pushing down on all of the scoketed ics
then repowering it up
ed
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Sorry for the bad pic
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to start with that board is in advanced service mode test..?
did u do that ?
if not u have a stuck switch >start or such<
the boot screen usualy only carrys chking disk 0/1/2
then chking modem
then cycles to game
ed
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No it starts out with this screen a couple times saying it cannot connect to the hard drive then after I press start a couple times then it does a video test then goes to that screen.
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ok
leave the buttons alone until the game starts........
now
is the hard drive pluged in ? both power and ide cable ?
did u move it with the hard drive in the game ?
please note i am asking u basic questions
i will get tech as we go
ed
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Ok I just wasn't sure how long it would keep saying that it couldn't connect to the hard drive so I pressed start. I have not opened up the game at all it was moved with the hard drive in it so I'm wondering if it came loose
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So I let it go without pressing start and it just keeps saying no hard drive detected and restarts and does it over again. So guessing the next step is to see if the hard drive got disconnected somehow?
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open the coin door
reach in and up to the left and right
u will feel a clasp on either side
un-clip them and then pull the full tray out >it will inculde the control panel<
the tray goes from front to back on an angle
there is a total of 4 clasps 2 upper 1's left and right looking from the front
then there is 2 otheres abouve them >leave them alone< they latch in the control panel only
we want control panel and tray toghter..
ed
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Ok I have the coin door open and this is what I'm seeing
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reach up and around to your left and right
u will a clap on either side..1 each
un-do them and slide the tray and control panel out at once
ed
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as that IS NOT THE ORIGNAL POWER SUPPLY
do me a favor and post a picture of the front of your cab.
i have a feeling it is a converion cab
ed
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Inside
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Front of the machine I cannot find the clasp that you are talking about just the wires up there for the controls and the dollar thing on the side
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ya thats not a hs-5
it is a converison
open it from the back and we will see
ed
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Sorry finally got the back off
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Hard drive is making a clicking noise during boot up as well not sure if that's normal or not
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clicking is the heads hitting
99% of the time the drive is shot
what dose the label on u15 say it is
i am hoping egale 2.09 ?
ed
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I know I sound like a total idiot but I'm new to this what is the u15?
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u15=boot rom
it is to the right of the second processer
it will be marked either boot rom # or gt-boot rom ###
ed
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Ok so I wasn't seeing it. I did find a label that said u15 though
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Also here is a shot of the hard drive
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ok thats is a v 1.07 or 1.7 either
with that boot rom u are drive locked in size (20gig)
if u wish to use larger drives any size ide/ssd/flash-drive
u must up-grade to egale 2.09 boot rom
with out 2.09 u stay locked to smaller ide hard drives
ed
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So would this work or do you know of a better site?
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that will do it
ed
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Ok so what will I be looking for in a hard drive? Thank you again for all your help
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any size ide once u get the new boot rom
there is a few steps i will have u do with the new drive
nothing special but it dose sasitify your mind it will not a drive problem
ed
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I dropped by to see if Ed was yelling yet and so far it's just a love'n and fix'n festival.
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Haha for sure thanks for not yelling at me I'm new to it all but I'm enjoying learning. I will let you know when I have the boot rom and hard drive
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hmm leapinlew u must be bored.?
ya let me know when the boot rom comes in.
in the mean time what do u have u can write the new harddrive with
usb2ide ?
ed
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Sorry to post in this thread, but I have the same problem with a Golden Tee 2005 and a broken Maxtor HDD.
I changed the boot rom to Eagle 2.09 (from 1.06).
I tried 5 replacement 40GB HDD (2 Maxtor, 2 WD, 1 IBM).
I used CHDMAN to create the HDD from MAME CHD files
golf_fore_2005_v5.00.00.chd
golf_fore_2005_v5.01.00.chd
golf_fore_2005_v5.01.02.chd
golf_fore_2005_v5.01.06.chd
When I try to boot with the any HDD, and any image, I get Hard drive detected but the filesystem check doesn't seems to work.
I have 3 partitions on the HDD and the CHDMAN creation worked fine, but I can't find why it hangs on filesystem check.
I read on another post that you could send your canadian HDD image to someone, do you think you could send it to me so I can try that image instead?
Thanks!
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how long dose it sit in chking file system ?
or dose it not go beyound that (10mins)
ed
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It take forever, there's no activity on the hdd led... never get past that.
When I run the test by holding start everything looks fine but only the filesystem doesn't seems to pass.
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power off
find sw51
turn switch on
power back up
tell me what u get
i will be on line for a byte yet
ed
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Every test were done with SW51 all 4 dip switch to ON
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ok thats what i thought would happen
btw sw51-2/3/4 are used only for country code
i just need to ask u a few questions and i will beable to explain to u whats going on
are the 3 leds blinking ? status1/stsatus2/ide1
next when u wrote the chd file
was the drive blank and clean ? or did u just over-write what was already there ?
if u wiped this drive which s/w did u use ?
ed
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I tried without wiping the HDD, but after that I followed what you said to someone in another thread, wipe with mini parition wizzard and chdman to create HDD.
I'm not at home right now but I think that status 1 (next to boot rom) always blink and status 2 doesn't blink but is on. The ide 1 blink on the hard disk detect phase, but stop after that.
Sometimes when the HDD is detected I don't get the filesystem check on the screen and there's no ide 1 led activity. Other time I get the filesystem check, the ide 1 led blink for 2-3 sec and the stop.
Do I need the latest CHD image to test (golf_fore_2005_v5.01.06.chd) or any of these should work?
Thanks for the help!
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no
the chd your using is fine
you have me confused at status 2 led light not blinking
as that is the subsystem ready status (blinking) means the buss is acctive
did u by chance have u53 out ?
if u did power the board off and pull the chip (make sure) u have no bent pins.
i would not think it is backwards ?,because the status 2 led would not light up
status 2 beening on soild means something is holding the sub buss into hold (lock-up)
worest case u need a new(used) u53..
ed
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I will confirm the status 2 led state when I get home tonight, it was from memory but I can be mistaken.
The game was working before, but the HDD didn't like the ride (forgot to remove it before transport). I removed everything to inspect and clean the board, so the chip should be ok, it was doing the same thing before the cleanup.
Since I only changed the boot rom to use any HDD, I'm not sure why u53 would have a problem. Let me check that tonight and I'll get back to you.
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I checked and I was wrong, the two green lights are blinking. The ide activity led blink for the first few seconds and then turn off when I get the checking filesystem message.
The u53 is well inserted in the socket, I don't see any problem with it.
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if the green leds are blinking then the board has gone past chk-sum and wats to go to game mode.
are there jumpers on your hard drive ?
if so remove/rewipe/fill sectors with 00's
and then re run chdman
see if that helps ?
if not u are in luck i am working green/red boards right now
ed
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I'm pretty sure the problem is with the HDD so I will try what you propose with the 5 HDD I have. It will take some time to wipe and zero the drives, but I guess I have nothing to loose by trying that. I should have time tomorrow after work.
Thanks again, your help is really appreciated.
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u only need to 1 to be cleaned off and set the way i explained to u
this will tell me 90% of the info
+ what size drives are these ? just need a few facts
ed
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The drives are all 40GB like the one that was in the cab.
I did clean one drive before chdman already in my previous tests. Perhaps I have a damaged drive so I will test another one to be sure, the drives are old IDE found in old PCs, I don't know how reliable they are. I should test them for bad sectors too while I'm at it.
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yes i do the same
mini allows for a wipe then surface test (scan) we want to use a good clean drive for this
no format no diskmgmt.msc to ready it
then we just run chdman onto it
should give us a clean and ready to boot drive.
i do not even use the jumpers for cs/m/sl mode
or size limt shorting blocks
as i have seen a good 2.09 boot them jumper less
ed
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So I clean the drive and did a surface test before and after without error.
chdman the image to the disk and tried it. Same thing append, won't boot.
I waited 15 minutes and the partition check didn't pass 0.
I'm wiping another drive right now to test a second drive.
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ok
i think u might have another problem
but give that a test
will be on/off for few hours yet
ed
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same thing with the other drive.
I'm verifying my chd files, I don't remember if I checked that first before writing them with chdman.
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u said u bought a 2.09 right ?
can u read it ?
if not do u have the older 1 ?
u see some times the socket goes bad 80% of the time as a matter of numbers
it is a token rule we replce the socket.
u have to understnd the boot process to these boards
1=status1/2 blink once >>reset<<
2=status 2 blinks for about 5 blinks well status 1 is solid >>post boot<<
3=status 1 starts to blink in time with status 2 >>chk-sum-pass perceed to boot<<
4=red ide light starts to go solid and blink
durning this time u see the first video screen (board/rom-build-game-mfg-egale)
then u see the harddrive getting loaded and (polled),thus on screen u see chking file sector 1/2 and sometimes 3
then u see voltage ok/bad,if ok u see it say build id (u53 getting polled for game id)
if that passes it says to u loading game
that sir is the exact process
with this imfomation u can deduce where to look
i am going to pint to u15 (game boot rom),and as u bought it from flebay,that even rasies the thought higher
so in short if u can read it ? i can send u the exact egale 2.09 to compare it to
ed
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I didn't get the chip on ebay, I got it from hobbyroms here in canada.
I send him the eagle boot 2.09 you post in another thread and the one from MAME (they were the same).
He check the rom everything was ok. The rom even pass the checksum in the diagnostic test (when i start with start button pressed).
I'll check the boot process to see if I get what you explain.
I will also try again with the old rom (1.06).
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1.06 should go past boot with a 40gig drive (it just fits),might need to be a tad larger
let me what i have for higher revs,i do not know if 2.04 will work for gt? if they do ?
i can send u 1 free
ed
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Well the 1.06 did exactly the same thing. The boot process seems correct, status 2 blink less than 5 times before ide led start but ide led stop after one full blink and I get the filesystem error message on screen.
I'm lost
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do u know how to solder ?
if so replace u15 socket
what i am trying to aviod here, is telling u the worest news there is
so for a dollar or 2 and 30 minuites of time
we replace the socket
test with 2.09 once again (once socket is replaced)
and btw i have replaced a boot load of theres and another (god's) rom's
ed
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Yes I do, I did that on another board to replace a broken driver for a starwars pinball DMD.
I checked the socket when I switched to 1.06 and I saw some kind of corrosion on one of the leg in the socket, so that could indeed be part of the problem.
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So I changed the socket with a new one, tested the signal and restarted the cab with 1.06 and 2.09. Same thing with the ide activity led...
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ok now we are getting some where
here what i would do
chk u20/23/24 for water damage
or any damage for that matter.
these 3 chips are your u2 to ide interface buffers
now do u own a digital probe ? or a scope ?
if u can do i can help u debug the stuck ide line
ed
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I don't own one, but I could try to find someone who has one. The board is clean, I don't see any damage.
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without hooking the board up to a scope or tracer
the best i can tell u is either the ide buffers/swichs are stuck/burnt out (burnt out is common)because ppl will hook the ide up backwards.
or your u2 is shot 50% there,there has been alot of u2 failures as of late
which lends its self to a ton of problems.
if u2 is shot u are holding a small paper weight (u can not get the chip anymore) as exlinx no longer makes spartan 2-3 chip sets
if the buffers are shot u can get them and rework the board
get ready for alot of work
ed
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Sadly, I think you're right. Sounds like I will be looking for another board soon :(
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well sadly i tend to agree with u
now when u do go to buy 1
do yourself a favour
do not buy it from ebay
the reason is simple (these boards) and there age do not lend themselfs to shock very well (inculdes handling)
+ make sure it is a working board,i never sell a board out right it is exchange and i let the coustmer see it working
so there is never a question of my work.
ed
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Does this work as a digital probe?
It's a digital multimeter with Logic test option for CMOS/TTL.
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yes
ed
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Cool! how do I proceed to check the IDE line with that ? :)
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once u get it
i will explain
right now it would not make any sense to u
just beening fair
ed
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I have it, it's on my desk right now!
But I'm not at home ;D
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ok the next few posts get real tec...i mean deep
u will be probing control lines :ie: interupt/ce/add/data to and from
it is the only way to find out if the interface's and or u2 are bad
u will need to hook to steady +5 volts dc and ground
then make sure your probe is set to pluse- ttl/cmos
strap on your boots real tight
ed
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I won't be able to check this tonight, but perhaps tomorrow night.
I'm a tech guy so I love to learn some new things! I'm a computer and hardware wiz, but not so in electronics (basic understanding).
Thanks for taking the time to help!
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I should be able to check that now, can you tell me what I need to do first with the probe ?
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spec me the model /mfg of the probe
this way i can do it right
ed
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I'm sure that it is very old!
It's a Voltcraft 90s by Hyobon.
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well that is interesting
dose this unit have a battery ?
if so then the wire u see at the back is a ground clip right ?
if so we should be good to go for testing
ed
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Yes it has a battery and the cable is indeed for ground. I borrowed it from a friend who is a genius in electronics (30 years+ exp)! He could eventually help me if I'm unable to diagnose this problem with your help.
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hi
that is great and your buddy there will not hurt :)
but if the battery is good
we can do a fast test to get u going with the probe
hook the ground wire to a solid ground point
and boot the board
then probe in ttl/cmos test (so it beeb) pin 1 then pin 19 of u56-u58
if u get a pulse light ? then the probe will do :)
u may also get a straight green and or red light
they do mean different things but lets test
ed
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I had to connect a new cable to get 5v and ground for the logic probe to work.
Here's the results:
U56 pin 1 no light 3.3v
U56 pin 19 High (red light logic 1) 4.5v
Same thing for U58
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boy your in luck tonight as i am doing green boards
no blinking light = no logic control
i want u to try here next
chips u23/u24 pins # 1 and 19 again
what i am looking for is a blinking light
now these 3 chips ar your ide interface
no blinking means no logic clocking
ed
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U23 pin 1 Low (Flash in sync with the blinking error message on screen) 2.5V
U23 pin 19 Low (not blinking) vary between 115mV and 138mV
U24 pin 1 Same thing as U23
U 24 pin 19 Low (not blinking) vary between 140mV and 151mV
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ok part of it is getting clock toggle
see attached pdf
that is your ide control line input
i will get u the routing for u20
but right now it is not looking good
ed
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I found that 2 legs from U2 don't connect to U23.
U2 pin 94 does not connect to U23 pin 6.
U2 pin 95 does not connect to U23 pin 5.
Corrosion on U2 pins, I will try to jump to see if it helps.
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Corrosion on U2 pins ?
which pins ?
and go very careful
with the corrosion,,,as the legs will be very weak
and they are hard to replant do to the fact it is .040 micron spacing
go easy
ed
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94 and 95 where disconnected from the board caused by corrosion, I lifted them carefully with a scalpel and I will jump them to U23 and secure them with hot glue when all this is finished. But it will have to wait until tomorrow night I'm short of tin...
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pin 92 = vcc 3.3 volt
pin 93 = gnd
ed
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Sorry I think it's 94 and 95... If I follow the traces, they go through 2 vias to get to U23 pin 6 and 5.
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u got pins #94 and 95
at least that what the schematic says
ed
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Yeah I edited my reply with the correct count.
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That picture was before I lifted them. I didn't see that by eye before.
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yea go very easy with the pins
them u2 are a soft qfp
ed
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Oh yeah!
That was the problem! I now need to secure the cables with hot glue :)
Thanks for the help ed!
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any time
ed
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i am going to say nice work on the repair
most ppl cannot pull that rabbit out of there axx
i am impresed
ed
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Thanks, I had a good lead in the source of the problem. :)
I'm not an electronic expert but I can fix things and I really like challenges like that.
With help from boards like this it's even easier when I get to talk to experts like you! Someone who knows his stuffs ;)
I played for the first time with the owner after the repair. Fun game.
I secure the cables on the board with hot glue making sure to let the connections exposed if I need to get back for another repair. That's not pretty, but it makes the game run and that was the goal. The owner is happy, so am I!
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well i would think u did dudilgince on the u2 (it is a pinta) to say the least
208 pins on a .040 foot print wow
so hats off to u glad it worked out
next time i will have more confidince in explaing things to u
as u did 1 of the hardest repairs there is on these :cheers: :cheers:
ed