Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: jtb1987 on February 10, 2017, 12:28:42 am
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Hi everyone -
Can anyone tell me what part this black device is and it's function? I understand the function of the isolation transformer for the arcade CRT, but I'm unclear on what this is and how it's connected to the anatomy of an arcade machine.
I have a Jamma cabinet with the original CRT that I'm working with and would like to replace some of this old wiring and the power switch that turns everything on - I'm just unsure exactly the power switch talks to the CRT/Isolation transformer and this black device in my attached picture, thanks for any help!!!
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Here is the power switch I'd like to replace (attached) -
Does anyone also know how to identify which kind of switch I'd need?
Here is a link to what I think I need but not sure how to validate...
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/electrical_supplies/49-5259-00
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that is your mane power switch..why would u replace it ?
is it broken ?
if not then why
and NO it is not a great idea to mess with your main power loom
ed
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Seems you're a bit in over your head. That "black device" is a switching power supply. Also, electrical components don't "talk" to each other. They just provide a path for electrons to flow freely from one atom to the next in the circuit. Under normal circumstances, I'm all for rolling your own harnesses. However, a basic understanding of electrical theory is needed first. I'm with Ed on this one, you probably shouldn't be messing with wires.
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That "black box" is the switching regulator power supply that feeds DC power to your JAMMA game board, coin counting meter, coin door lights, etc.
No need to replace your wiring. It looks fine.
Unless the power switch is broken, no need to replace that either.
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next ???? would be . . . . did your cab came with a JAMMA game board ?
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Hi guys, thanks for the replies -
I'd like to replace the power switch just because it's so dirty (attached) and rather than try to restore it, I was hoping to just get a replacement.
I'm trying to look at the wiring of the cabinet and remove everything that I won't need.
The only original parts I intend to keep in the machine is the original CRT, it's isolation transformer, the jamma board (along with a JPAC) and it sounds like I'll need to keep the regulator power supply.
I'm replacing the control panel/buttons wiring and speakers. I also bought a new coin mechanism but unsure exactly what I need to connect to it from the original wiring. My computer power supply is going to be powering the LED lights in my buttons/joysticks and I was wondering if I could power the new coin mechanism this same way, or if I'm going to have to find a way to connect it to the regulator power supply.
Any guidance/recommendations are greatly appreciated, thank you for any help!
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This may seem obvious but if its Dirty, Clean it!
Age old engineering quote: if it aint broke dont break it!
As for the power question yes you can use a PC's PSU to power LEDs and coin mechs but you may also need to put a diode in circuit for the coin mech and resistors for the LED's depending.
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They are cheap enough to replace, but get a can of compressed air and clean it out if it is working. Don't make the same mistake as I and remove important parts out of the cab. Very bad idea and totally agree with all the comments made. Especially with the isolation transformer. Good questions to ask though.
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Forgot to attach the picture of the switch...it also has rust all over it, it seems like I could just unplug/discharge the monitor and replace the little switch with a fresh unit...I'm just unsure if the product in my original link is the right part..or what I need to look at before buying this component from Suzo Happ.
Regarding, powering the coin mechanism with the PC power supply - can you elaborate on what you mean if I need a diode or not? I've already been able to connect my joystick/button LEDs to the molex connector in the PC and get power to the lights. I was hoping I could power the coin mech directly from the PC power supply too along with wiring it directly to my Xin Mo board (for my coin up function).
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That switch is probably fine, and has nothing to do with the monitor other than the fact it is the main cabinet power switch. You certainly don't need to do anything to or with the monitor to replace the switch.
Out of the hundreds of machines I have owned I have never had one that had a coin mech that needed to be powered, only bill validators. The coin mech wires exactly the same as a button.
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personaly
unless u are doing a ful blown 100% period correct factory fresh restore.?
leave every thing alone
foucs on your control panel
and forget a powered coin mech.as they are a pinta if u do not have there up-daters.
make sure your monitor is good and healty and move on to graphics
ed
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Like Paige says you can just replace that switch as long as the one you change it with has the right current rating and number/type of poles.
As for the coin mech it depends what type you use as to how you wire it.
There are 2 types mech and electronic.
Mechs only take one coin and operate a microswitch when you put a coin through.
You can wire those to a xin mo same as a button.
Electronic mechs are the same as mech ones in terms of their output but they also require a power supply, may require programming etc.
For the diode wiring here is a example:
https://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server6200/ajh2rr5h/products/514/images/2057/Comparable-Coin-Mech-Data__93994.1352296631.1280.1280.jpg?c=2
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the big metal plate will come off of that switch... just sand it smooth and paint it. it will look just fine. a modern switch that would replace that won't come with that mounting plate anyways. you'd have to transfer the new switch to that old plate.
that switch also looks like a really good switch and doesn't look cheap. it would probably work just fine. a wire brush should be all it needs to get some dirt and rust off the threads. a modern switch that would replace that might not be as good quality.
with your lack of experience at this point, I would stay with "cleaning and restoring" and not yet get into "replacing and rewiring"