Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: nipsmg on January 22, 2004, 07:39:40 am
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I've seen quite a few control panels on which joysticks are mounted in such a way that there are NO BOLTS showing through the top of the panel.
Example: http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=3066;start=msg96162#msg96162 (http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=3066;start=msg96162#msg96162)
Look at the CP, there's no bolts showing through the top of the panel for the joysticks. The only way I can think of to do this would be screwing into the bottom of the panel, or countersinking & wood-puttying the tops of the bolts.
I know screwing into the bottom of the panel isn't very secure, and wood-puttying the bolts after countersinking them is a little more permanent than I'd like (replacing that would SUCK).
Are there any other ways to do it securely?
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The method used on pretty much all "real" cabinets is to use a Control Panel Overlay (CPO) which is a thin laminate or perspex sheet. This covers all mountings. Most joysticks have a dust washer. On most classic cabinets this washer "floats" under the CPO. This means routing a recess into the top of the wood deep enough to accomodate the joystick plate and washer.
On all new cabinets that I've seen recently (including my own Sega Naomi cab), the dust washer simply sits on the top of the panel. On the Sega, the panel is plastic but it still has a CPO to cover the bolts.
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What I did with mine and it seems to be working fine is to counter sink the bolts on top. Then I have my artwork over that. Looks clean and sharp.
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FWIW, I just received a Red Octane Sould Caliber PS2 j-stick for x-mas. It only has wood screw in it from the bottom.
Seems to hold well, but I haven't played Sould Caliber too vigorously yet...
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Screw in from the bottom using countersunk T-Nuts on top of the panel. See this thread http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=13366
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HagHore:
That looks like a great solution. I think I'll probably go that way.
Thanks a lot! :-D
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If you're using a metal control panel this can be accomplished by spot welding studs to the bottom.
-S
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I just used screw from the bottom. It's stayed in position just fine, in both MDF and pine.
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What haghore said. . .
See also http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=10496;start=0 (http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=10496;start=0)
around reply #22
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Check out my post (http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=5195;start=msg34250#msg34250) and then read the rest of that thread for a lot of good info on this.
Threaded insert nuts, up from the bottom. No marks on the top, and you'd bust the joystick before being able to yank it out.
RandyT
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Screw in from the bottom using countersunk T-Nuts on top of the panel. See this thread http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=13366
Hey HagHore, do you have more pics of how you mounted your trackball?
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Although it's my cab, it's not my mounting method...Nannuu did the actual work, he's the one with the woodcrafting genes...Me, I can build houses but the fine work like cabinets I don't have patience for. I'll let him know that he needs to post to this thread.
Deoh, you asked about the trackball...if you check towards the end of the first page on the thread in my first reply you'll see more on the mounting of the iBall.
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I'm not sure I'd recommend my method of attaching the I-Ball as it seems a bit complicated adding the rotation but it does work incredibly well once done. I went with this method because he wanted it to be easily accessible for cleaning. This could have also been done without the hinge I suppose but what fun would that be?
I hope these picture explain enough of what I did. I wasn't smart enough to write the dimensions down as I was working on it :(.
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I think I used 1/4" countersink machine screws...
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The axis' for the ball stick up above the case. I had to route some small grooves here and there to keep from fouling the wood. I also routed some grooves for the case sides as the dip below the wood when rotating even though they end up flush once secure. I left the raised mounting holes in the case for added assurance that it won't move around during play and also helps secure the case from working the bolts loose.
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The rear support is exacty the height of the case so that the hinge is straight when installed. The front support must sit lower so that the case front can be held against it.
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Just like the joystick installation I drilled out holes in the top of the panel to install T-nuts. The two raised holes use two thumbscrews to hold the case secure to the front support. This makes it very easy to remove the screws and drop the case down to remove the ball for cleaning, without removing the lexan on top.
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The solder contacts touched the hinge nuts so I trimmed off as much as I could for clearance. This is also why I had to use Locktite to secure the nuts instead of installing lockwashers. There just wasn't enough space for washers as well :P.
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This is just another pic of the raised holes matching up with the countersink of the spacer.
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Bottom view with all installed. I did finally find some 10-24 thumbscrews long enough at Ace Hardware. (regular screws shown)
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Sorry I forgot to mention that I had drilled the trackball hole first. The hole is actually one inside the other. I first drilled the 2" diameter hole to match the ball then I drilled another at 2 1/8" diameter but didn't go all the way through the panel. This allows the ball a little play, which it will do.
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Probably the worst part of this installation is measuring. I went and bought some calipers just in time, whew! I measured and quadruple checked everything, then stared at it a while, then measured some more, looked at it, stared at it......oooohhh. I wasn't about the install the whole thing and then find out that the ball did match up with the hole! I think it took about 8 hours or maybe more.
You also have to secure the board back into the case but that is quite self explanatory. I also chopped a groove toward the back of the case to run the USB cable out of so that it comes out the side closer to the axis of rotation. And I added a hole on the side of the panel for the LED to mount.
I think this is most of what I did. Any more questions please ask.