The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: nanoflower on September 13, 2016, 04:57:33 pm
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Here we go!
I contacted Martijn a while back as I kinda fell in love with his Scratch Slim MVC build.
He was kind enough to share his Sketchup files with me :cheers: and I've been fine tuning them for some time now (this was before he decided to publish them in his thread)
The most obvious change I made was to shorten the cab - I'm not too tall so I cut it down to 181 cm
This is my first attempt at building an arcade, so hopefully everything will go as smooth as possible.
(http://i.imgur.com/2O3XzkC.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/0Q8GtlW.jpg)
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I went to the local print store where my friend work and had the plans printed out in 1:1
The basic idea was to create a routing template that would double as a "hard copy" build plan.
(http://i.imgur.com/z6sZ5MC.jpg)
I spray glued the plans to a sheet of 16 mm MDF
(http://i.imgur.com/mqmK79Z.jpg)
I decided to check if my plunge saw was square before rushing in; all looks a-ok :applaud:
(http://i.imgur.com/o6ravjC.jpg)
Ready to rock 'n' roll kids
(http://i.imgur.com/q0cUB4d.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3hF9HjL.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/dQLihCv.jpg)
I was asleep at the wheel and managed to cut a piece of one of my benches
Oh well lesson learned.
(http://i.imgur.com/ZE4gnJu.jpg)
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I guess you've just discovered Googles changes from Picasa. Your pictures are not visible for other people unfortunately, only yourself... All I can see are "Forbidden" symbols. If you have any older pictures where you copied the links through Picasa, they should be working fine. But the new Google Photo sharing system is horrible, and you can't get larger versions of the photos either by copying the image URL like earlier.
I can highly recommend Imgur (http://imgur.com), they even have a button for "copy paste" on IMG URL's. :cheers:
It will save you a lot of the hassle with posting on forums.
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(...) Your pictures are not visible for other people unfortunately, only yourself... All I can see are "Forbidden" symbols (...)
I can highly recommend Imgur (http://imgur.com) (...)
Thanks man, I did not see that one coming. I have now uploaded my images to Imgur as suggested - I love that site by the way; an easy place to kill 20 minutes-ish :)
Hopefully everything is better now?
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The first post is OK, still not showing up on second?
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Just a suggestion... why not post images to THIS site??? That way when **insert current popular image site** shuts itself down your images will still be here. :D
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The first post is OK, still not showing up on second?
Not sure what happened, the links should be good now - not soo smooth a start after all :D
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I can highly recommend Imgur (http://imgur.com), they even have a button for "copy paste" on IMG URL's. :cheers:
Well, technically, you are right -- you can recommend that. ::)
It's bad advice for the long-term, but you can recommend it. :P
It will save you a lot of the hassle with posting on forums.
So . . . save a few seconds now and who cares about the poor schmuck trying to follow and learn from the thread several years from now? >:D
At a minimum, please upload any "can't-understand-and/or-duplicate-the-build-without-it" photos to BYOAC.
There have been a number of *previously* well-documented projects like Knievel's classic Woody (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,55789.0/all.html) build that are now much harder to follow and appreciate. :banghead:
The Woody thread doesn't even have a finished pic of that beautiful build any more. :badmood:
Scott
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Your off to a good start Nano! That cutting template saves a lot of pencil time :cheers:
I use google photos to upload pictures directly from my iPhone to google. its very easy to use.
My projects where lost as well, but i fixed them all :angel:
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I can highly recommend Imgur (http://imgur.com), they even have a button for "copy paste" on IMG URL's. :cheers:
Well, technically, you are right -- you can recommend that. ::)
It's bad advice for the long-term, but you can recommend it. :P
It will save you a lot of the hassle with posting on forums.
So . . . save a few seconds now and who cares about the poor schmuck trying to follow and learn from the thread several years from now? >:D
At a minimum, please upload any "can't-understand-and/or-duplicate-the-build-without-it" photos to BYOAC.
There have been a number of *previously* well-documented projects like Knievel's classic Woody (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,55789.0/all.html) build that are now much harder to follow and appreciate. :banghead:
The Woody thread doesn't even have a finished pic of that beautiful build any more. :badmood:
Scott
But that's because people delete their photos right? I have been using picasa before, and they are still there. Much simpler with imgur account.
But I do see your point, I just find it a bit easier than updating the dedicated picture thread here. Sorry about that.
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But that's because people delete their photos right?
Not always.
IIRC in Knievel's case, he changed hosting companies for his build website.
Apparently it was an incomplete migration to a different server URL. :banghead:
I think you can still find some of the pictures from his old site on the Internet Wayback Machine, but AFAIK he hasn't taken the time to recover/re-up the pics and hasn't fixed the links.
I agree with your convenience argument for large galleries, but if you're taking the time to document a build, it makes sense IMHO to take a few seconds extra to "bullet-proof" the important images.
Just picture the position you'd be in if several years from now when you have hundreds (thousands?) more posts than you have now and then imgur goes belly-up. :hissy: :banghead: :hissy: :banghead: :hissy:
How long would it take to fix all of those posts? Would you be willing to expend the effort?
Scott
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True... But if the forum got an update in the future, pictures would be embedded with the posts.
IMHO that's the best option for the future of this site...
:-[
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Your off to a good start Nano! That cutting template saves a lot of pencil time :cheers:
I use google photos to upload pictures directly from my iPhone to google. its very easy to use.
My projects where lost as well, but i fixed them all :angel:
Thanks Martijn, that means a lot. The cutting template really is a good idea, as you say it saves you from a lot of pencil work.
The lines and angles are dead straight so hopefully everything will come together nicely when the time comes :)
I sawed out a couple of rough profiles, and left some excess material for my router to chew on.
(http://i.imgur.com/HiJRZwW.jpg)
Used carpet tape to stick the template and the rough cuts together and then fired up the router
(http://i.imgur.com/AJLovbI.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/rvyriMf.jpg)
The result: two identical sides.
(http://i.imgur.com/lfnZ3t7.jpg)
Time to router out the t-molding slots - that little ninja shurriken bit is actually kind of scary
(http://i.imgur.com/eZueL7V.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/sC6CZO8.jpg)
Added some t-molding to protect the corners, thank for shipping that my way rablack97 :cheers:
(http://i.imgur.com/rCuYn5u.jpg)
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I can highly recommend Imgur (http://imgur.com), they even have a button for "copy paste" on IMG URL's. :cheers:
True... But if the forum got an update in the future, pictures would be embedded with the posts.
IMHO that's the best option for the future of this site...
:-[
If you're linking from another server (i.e. imgur), the picture is not embedded with the post, only the URL.
If you don't think that can cause problems, check the Paradise Arcade Shop links and pics in my early posts.
They reorganized their site and broke thousands upon thousands of BYOAC thread links to their products and pics.
If you want to say, "I prefer linking to imgur because it's easier to use", that is your preference and people are free to agree or disagree as they see fit.
If you want to assert that image links to imgur URLs are "the best option for the future of this site", I think that you are ignoring clear evidence to the contrary.
If you meant to say that it would be great if uploading pics to BYOAC was as easy as drag-and-drop or pasting links from imgur then I agree wholeheartedly. :cheers:
Scott
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What I meant was that the only thing missing on this forum is the ability to set the attachment inline, that way it could be uploaded directly to the posts.
I didn't mean embedded from Imgur.
Atm you have to post pictures to one thread, and link to that from the posts to get them inline.
Instead of just attaching the pictures and putting them inline directly.
If you upload in the post, you end up having all the pictures at the bottom. If you then use the links from them, they are posted twice in the same post.
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Very true. :cheers:
Inline pic posting is a feature from phpBB (the software used for the KADE Foums (http://kadevice.com/forum/index.php)) that would be great in SMF. [/thread derail] ;D
Scott
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If you want to say, "I prefer linking to imgur because it's easier to use", that is your preference and people are free to agree or disagree as they see fit.
Man, if only there were some way to message some one privately, instead of crapping up what is otherwise a nice build thread.
Good work so far Nano, you gonna use your tools to cut a new slab for the bench? :)
Have you decided on an art direction?
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Man, if only there were some way to message some one privately, instead of crapping up what is otherwise a nice build thread.
Good work so far Nano, you gonna use your tools to cut a new slab for the bench? :)
Have you decided on an art direction?
Thank you
Naw, the accidental cut was made on the 'inch' side of the bench and since I use metrics it not a biggie ;)
I' still trying to figure out a name for the cab and some matching artwork.
The slim design has some limitations to it. Every game character or image I've tested basically get cropped when upscaled
The images has to be tall and slender in order for them to fit, so I guess that's why Martijn chose C.Viper and Ironman for his.
I like fighting games, and initially I was planning to theme it up accordingly
At this point I'm open to suggestions, so if anyone has an idea for a name (pls no 'cade' or 'retro') and a theme it would be most welcome
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How did you cut the boards? You have very nice and sharp inner angles, I find that a bit difficult to do.
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How did you cut the boards? You have very nice and sharp inner angles, I find that a bit difficult to do.
It is not possible to cut sharp inner corners with a plunge saw unless the material you are sawing in is very thin.
The circular blade will missing a bit on the bottom, the thicker the board the more it will stop short.
The trick is to plunge the saw to it's max. depth and then stop your cut as close to the end of the line as possible - It is easy to over cut, so be careful ;)
If you are making a long cut then you'll have to remove the excess wood to prevent it from snapping. I recommend you use a good fine toothed hand saw for that job (I used a Japan saw)
Now you make your second cut and remove the wood just like before.
Then remove the rest using a nice razor sharp and plane chisel
If you take a close look at the second picture you can make out a triangular outline; that is where the MDF I removed used to sit.
(http://i.imgur.com/Zu0AGY4.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/z3v9TPg.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/GT6k0Km.jpg)
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Excellent! Thank you for that!! Really helpful :)
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I' still trying to figure out a name for the cab and some matching artwork.
I like fighting games, and initially I was planning to theme it up accordingly
At this point I'm open to suggestions, so if anyone has an idea for a name (pls no 'cade' or 'retro') and a theme it would be most welcome
How about "RetroCade"? :laugh2:
As you like fighters, how about "Time To Kill"? (See the double entendre here? :D)
As the cabinet is slim, you'd either want art that keeps it simple, and highlights it, otherwise you could go with zoomed in pictures, and just cut them. The shape of the cabinet could make it cool!
F.ex. something like this. Maybe a poor choice of artwork, but you get the point.
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Test your Fight!
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Beat 'm up Paradise/Vault/Arch
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Thunder dome
Thunder cage
Thunder cat
Thunder blunder
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Round 1 Fight
Final Round
Just Push Buttons
Medium Kick
Learn to Block
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Ass whooper IV
Nut puncher
Gore lords.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gfPlHIHwKLExbIVAJEuZj-BafY0DVlBf-EDUArJq9bjKwt5upTRq3vyw-KOaFb_FRzkLc7GWjv8YgyZlNP3-moyIhj1kCMWsYNG0vp8-bpU8fK5fpgb6GSByLhk1l5BpkVOYBKSxs78QfjNZQ_zpPJcqDzVkasXGUsdpDqrWhOqiWLRIfmZuAajAsp0LUA6JdKDS1i8oMSTubEl-bt0Y2zP1oMXoHT2I3H9XMj1fWE8hJpOUF7tD1MnsGk_mBsEVT4WA8pyClDM3PWeUTZ3zx1AWKWfPBML-q-cCG7Y1cpZtfSkqSPpU0aA3QAMg7LffnpwDfLb65atrzPKywcF75BBvxF577UVaVx1BWsPZ5E6yEQqjL1GLGwp6yMPunenWuarYrDVhBfwSx73h5H5-xFHkcOWZ-G5jIkiWx5lQBRNU2iMpCW6o7pTuKCdGOKsXgKv6UP3OvIJ-IbK6OOqSJTpG6kCfH4IKCsWQ-wSnCb1zIdhRBNcm0-AzOkTu8GSpQvD7xkAm51Dc_2GaZtFtfpwREllwmfrbGJBWlP5kusk8yuGMFCfCZYzGH5-UZLMrQ4qozg5tNdMvFFXGhMO93DO3m6sntiZOmOs0qb9-Qg=w1024-h786-no)
;D
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TATAKAI
Japanese for battle/fight.
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Thanks for the input guys, you've given me something to think about
I had some laminate sent to me at work, and our receptionist was kind enough to sign for it. I almost crapped my pants when I saw the condition it was in - it was completely mauled.
The receptionist calmed me down and told me that the delivery company was made aware of the problem, and that the damage had been noted on the delivery receipt for insurance reasons.
I called up the store that sent it to me, and told them about the problem. They replaced it, no charge or any fuzz and they didn't even want the battered laminate back.
I decided to inspect the broken laminate, and it turned out that some of it could still be used (sorry forgot to take a pic of the sheets)
(http://i.imgur.com/jKOIe6P.jpg)
The laminate was cut rough using a Dremel tool, but it took for ever and the cutting disc wore down faster than I liked.
A pair of kitchen scissors is the way to go about this. Be sure to leave plenty of overhang as aligning the laminate and MDF can be a tricky.
(http://i.imgur.com/s2r8Jsk.jpg)
The laminate and MDF was glued together using some spray on contact cement, and pressed together using regular rolling pin and a lot of bodyweight.
The edges was flush trimmed with the router, and then I went over it again using a j-roller
(http://i.imgur.com/6eEx1TV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/rn9xDPG.jpg)
The laminate really looks good
(http://i.imgur.com/VfRRjBs.jpg)
The inner corners was cleaned using a fresh Stanley knife blade, I took my time as I didn't want it to chip.
I was not sure how to do this, but it worked out great :applaud:
(http://i.imgur.com/ebxeu4U.jpg)
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I spend a few hours messing with Photoshop and I finally decided what to call this project ::)
This is a very rough mock up and it needs to be hauled through Illustrator to get it nice and crisp
What do you think guys?
(http://i.imgur.com/D4YokSQ.png)
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Hah, nice. I like that art. :applaud:
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good start at the art.(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/applause.gif) any more characters found in that style?
and maybe a little more color.
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good start at the art.(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/applause.gif) any more characters found in that style?
and maybe a little more color.
No sadly I didn't find other characters in that style, so I'll probably just slap Chun Li on both sides.
The cab will be standing in my living room, so I need to tone the artwork down a notch due to the Wife Approval Factor... *sigh* ;)
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160917/a2eb57134a768c7bb95c8629e4d70c4e.jpg)
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Haha yea totally :D
(http://i.imgur.com/xDvmAr7.png)
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Some good progress, keep it up. Its coming on nicely :applaud:Love the T-Shirts also.
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I cut out the battons for both the profiles using my 1:1 template as a reference
(http://i.imgur.com/YH7gBTU.jpg)
After having cleaned up I decided to go annoy my friend at the print shop again.
I had my control panel and my lower back panel printed out. They prints are mirrored as I'll be glueing these templates to the insides of my MDF
(http://i.imgur.com/R1DqYju.jpg)
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Added some t-molding to protect the corners, thank for shipping that my way rablack97 :cheers:
(http://i.imgur.com/rCuYn5u.jpg)
Man that was some time ago, glad you got it and using it now, build looks great. :cheers:
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Man that was some time ago, glad you got it and using it now, build looks great. :cheers:
Thanks, and yea it's been a while ;) - where did you get it initially? It has a much nicer red than some of the samples I got from t-molding.com
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I did a laminate cut test today. I was quite worried about how my saw would handle the job.
The first few cuts almost brought me to my knees - the laminate chipped (not badly, but enough to annoy me) :banghead: :angry:
Spend some time scratching my head trying to figure out how to get around this problem - I don't like the idea of using the router as Martijn did to do the angled cuts, so I had to figure something out.
All kinds of things was tried: extra masking tape, different saw blade heights and so on...all with the same unsatisfying result.
Several cuts later I cracked the nut.
The laminate has to be scored backwards by 1 1/2mm and on top of that the cut also has to be made backwards - moving the saw in the opposite direction as the blade is going seems to work just fint.
Below is an example of a PERFECT laminate cut :applaud:
(http://i.imgur.com/RuMLLej.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/EArgAFE.jpg)
With that out of the way I decided to make a few spacer templates for the battons.
Hopefully I will find time to get them fitted tomorrow
(http://i.imgur.com/7rNiwR4.jpg)
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Tape + cutting from the back is usually how I've avoided chipping with a circular saw. But different laminate types and adhesives makes them behave differently.
Clamping scrap wood on the laminated side usually does the trick as well, can also be used for cutting acrylic plates, sandwich it between scrap wood.
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Tape + cutting from the back is usually how I've avoided chipping with a circular saw. But different laminate types and adhesives makes them behave differently.
Clamping scrap wood on the laminated side usually does the trick as well, can also be used for cutting acrylic plates, sandwich it between scrap wood.
Thank you for the tips. I actually tried most of what you suggest, except cutting from below.
My issues may also relate to impatience. I started cutting 10 mins. after the laminate was glued on. I think I'll give it some more time to set and ensure it's properly pressed / j-rolled on before I make the real cuts
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Finally got the battons fitted. It took more time that I had expected, and on top of that I made a small mistake :angry:
For some reason I managed to fit the bottom batton (on the left profile) too high up, this caused the two longest battons to almost touch.
Luckily I realised this in time, and I was able to pull off the lower batton and move it down, before the "No More Nails" glue had set.
That left me with a gap between the bottom and lower back batton. I cut a small piece of wood to fill that in -figured it would be a good idea as most of the weight will be distributed through the base of the cab.
I didn't glue the battons that will be holding the LDC and the the plexi as they may require some tweaking later on.
(http://i.imgur.com/mVQ3tbV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/YLeAMtq.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/8lZ0mng.jpg)
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Adding batons first and then the panels with laminate can result into the panels not making perfect flush contact with each other.
When you add the panels there could be space between then.
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Adding batons first and then the panels with laminate can result into the panels not making perfect flush contact with each other.
When you add the panels there could be space between then.
I made some templates to ensure the batton distance is correct.
I can see what you mean though, hopefully it will work out
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i did the same, but i had to move some over or just use metal L brackets(the one below the cp) , I needed more space on the sides for the cp mounting.
Next time i will add panel after panel and build my way around. Some angled panels needed a 45 degree cut on the inside, otherwise there was not enough space.
Just take your time. Make the panels. mount them. see whats wrong and adapt each panel unit it flush all over.
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i did the same, but i had to move some over or just use metal L brackets(the one below the cp) , I needed more space on the sides for the cp mounting.
Next time i will add panel after panel and build my way around. Some angled panels needed a 45 degree cut on the inside, otherwise there was not enough space.
Just take your time. Make the panels. mount them. see whats wrong and adapt each panel unit it flush all over.
Yea you are right; easy does it - I have to admit you got me a little worried there for a while ::)
I will take my time and try not to rush things. I'm thinking I need to get the cab up and standing to better get an idea about what's going on.
Did you cut the coin door and the volume panel at 90 degrees leaving a gap on the inside like this?
(http://i.imgur.com/gbX1BPI.jpg)
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That panel i didnt do. but on the backside i did, because the angles are mirrored then.
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Autumn has hit my part of the word and that means rain...never ending rain :hissy:
Spend a few hours in the basement today sawing out the LDC shelf.
The TV is oddly thick at the bottom and then narrows down at the top, so I had to add 2 spacer bolts to get it flush with the MDF plate.
(http://i.imgur.com/bFnXt2j.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/BHsXllb.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/i7LiqBe.jpg)
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Strong will to build you have. I am happy i got mine done before the rain started. Looking sharp!
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Strong will to build you have. I am happy i got mine done before the rain started. Looking sharp!
Thanks mate ;)
Yea I'm kinda jealous about that, and annoyed with my self that I didn't start sooner - you have made a lot of progress in a short time!
Luckily I have most of my MDF panels roughly cut out so I guess I'll be living in the basement for a while. The most annoying thing is the lack of space. I'm thinking on going on a diet as I can barely squeeze my self past the work benches and the walls :laugh:
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Sawed out the baseplate today.
I wanted a solution that allowed me to mount both leveling feet and castor wheels.
The idea is to have the cab on wheels during the build (easy rotation and access to all sides) and then replace them with the leveling feet later on.
This is what I came up with:
(http://i.imgur.com/CkwLMl6.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Qau3l3y.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/N3wiss7.jpg)
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will it hold the cabinet? the wheels are mounted in half routed out panels.
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will it hold the cabinet? the wheels are mounted in half routed out panels.
If a cabinet falls in a living room and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?"
Only time will tell, they should hold though...hopefully (dang, now you got me thinking again :o)
I countersunk the leveling feet so they are only there for stability purposes and will not be carrying the entire weight, perhaps I'll stick to those ;D
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any updates?
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any updates?
Hi Martijn ;)
-thanks for keeping an eye out ;)
No major updates, I did laminate 5 of my panels last week before going on a 1 week family vacation to Spain (came home this Saturday).
The lamination process didn't go as smooth as I had wanted, and I believe it's because of the temperature drops.
The first two insides was laminated during the last weeks of the summer when the weather was excellent and temp's extremely hot. This softened up the laminate and made it much more pliable.
I couldn't get get the laminate to stick properly to the edges of the panels this time no matter how much I rolled it down (and believe me I really went to town).
I'm worried that small dust particles got caught underneath when I routed off the overhang as it it has begun lifting it self up a bit, and that these particles are preventing the full bond.
The panels are all going on the back side of the cab, so on one will notice if everything isen't perfectly flush (the problem is; I will)
So now I'm debating with my self whether I should redo them or not.
Perhaps the spray-on adhesive was not the best approach - which contact cement did you use again, and what type of roller? (foam, mohair etc.)
The initial thought is to proceed and get the cab up and standing, and then determine if the problem is as big as I make it out to be.
I'll 'hire' my friend within the next couple of weeks as it's probably a good idea with an extra set of hands while putting it together.
(http://i.imgur.com/1oOcC55.jpg)
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What spray on adhesive did your use there are different strengths, I use spray on as well and have had no issue with the edges.
it is advised that you spray a little heavy on the edges? Did you let it cure for a few mins before you trimmed?
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What spray on adhesive did your use there are different strengths, I use spray on as well and have had no issue with the edges.
it is advised that you spray a little heavy on the edges? Did you let it cure for a few mins before you trimmed?
Hi rablack97
Yes I let it set for a while before flush trimming the edges; maybe not as long as I should have.
The glue I used was bought in a hardware store called "Biltema" who carry their own brand.
(http://i.imgur.com/8ajzMrp.jpg)
What brand of glue do you use/recommend?
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3M has good spray on adhesive, not sure if that's available in your area.
You have to ensure the adhesive is recommended for laminate application.
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i use bison kit. universal contact glue.
https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/bison-kit-contactlijm-universeel-2-5-liter/p/B456993 (https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/bison-kit-contactlijm-universeel-2-5-liter/p/B456993)
Really strong stuff. i need 2 cans for a cabinet to laminate it. Description also notes that it works really well with formica. I think that is or almost the same as HPL Laminate.
i poor the glue on the mdf, use a wallpaper rubber roller to apply. then i poor the laminate sheet and role that one. the laminate goes fast and easy to roll. the mdf drinks the glue.
then when its nice and even and a little dry i drop the sheet on the mdf and use my hands to apply pressure.
You get 1 shot to put the sheet on correctly. its almost instant joined. With a big crt cabinet with a cut to size laminate sheet for the sides this can be tricky.
You feel the cold of the glue working through the laminate when you apply pressure with your hands!
Pressuring along all the sides then let it dry for 10 minutes and i can route off the excess material.
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i use bison kit. universal contact glue. (...)Really strong stuff. i need 2 cans for a cabinet to laminate it (...)
Thanks Martijn
I took your word on that and ordered 2 cans today from https://www.bullstore.nl/bison-kit-2-5-liter (https://www.bullstore.nl/bison-kit-2-5-liter)
It was a bit expensive though (€ 89,13) but as this cannot be bought in Denmark where I live and as shipping fees was included it wasn't too bad. I did look into getting some 3M ScotchWeld glue, but that would have ment no X-mas presents for my children. 2 Liters of their sticky stuff cost the same as 5 Liters of the Bison glue ::)
You mentioned you used a rubber wallpaper roller to smoothen out the glue - Do you mean a j-roller type one like this one?
(http://i.imgur.com/bcLFuaT.jpg)
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Whoa! I hope it wont disappoint!
(https://static.gamma.nl/mam/celum/celum_assets/8854747611166_8711247174967_1_80158_tif_picture_Fullsize.jpg)
i got something like this. cheapest. filling is like a sponge. and the surface is smooth like plastic.