Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: 80sarcadegames on May 20, 2016, 09:32:25 am
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Is this custom controller a good deal? :-\
A local seller (2 hours drive each way) is selling it for $150.00 cash Here are the specifications for this controller for sale:
1. He brought it as a "kit" from a California based arcade build company that sends you the pre-drilled controller and you just have to buy your own buttons, joystick and track ball. He brought it from North Coast Custom arcades. https://www.mameroom.com/webstore_home.asp (https://www.mameroom.com/webstore_home.asp)
(http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s553/axlcmt5/00f0f_Lwos5UKmVq_600x450_zpsbd7t9ybr.jpg)
2. He put it together and he said that it cost him $500 in hardware parts not including the cost of time having to put it together.
3. The buttons, joysticks, and trackball are "crimped" on rather than soldered so if any of them ever break, I can replace them easily.
4. He has built 3-4 of these for friends and this one is just left over without a cabinet home and it is 1-2 years old. He took it across country via car when he moved.
5. He would use it himself but he does not have a home to build a cabinet for it. (he actually does not build the cabinets but he would buy a vintage arcade cabinet and retro-fit it).
6. He is willing to demo it if I drive the 2 hours each way to his house.
7. He said he is willing to help me over the phone connecting it and getting my emulator working on the PC it is connected to but he only used "mGalaxy" as an emulator and not "Hyperspin" for the 3-4 systems he built but I have my doubts he would be willing to commit to such a feat in the end...
8. I could build my own controller (I have all of the tools except for a the fine tipped "hole saw" to create the button holes) I own a router, table saw, miter saw, jigsaw, clamps, compressor, two portable power drills, circular saw and I have wood working experience) but for this price, it may be worth buying this rather then spending the time and money building my own.
9. The seller confirmed that he paid $$199 for the pre-drilled top kit and he said it is heavy (made of some kind of fiberboard).
10. The seller confirmed that the buttons can "light up" if I add a "light" below the controller cabinet.
11. The seller is desperate to get rid of FAST it because he does not have the space to hold it in his current residence.
12. The seller confirmed that the buttons are not soldered but are "crimped" on. Therefore if any buttons break, it will be easier to replace them.
13. There are also pinball buttons installed on the sides that you cannot see.
14. I see that the trackball on his build has a "raised" platform slightly above the surface of the control panel. Do you see what I see here? Is that going to be an issue with adding cover art (I will definitely want to add cover art at some point).
15. He tells me a story that the buttons will light but up if I put a light in the cabinet.....
16. Not related to No #15, these buttons do not look LED, or do they to you?
I would love to build my own control panel/cabinet with a LED/translucent trackball such as this one as well as LED buttons:
https://www.ultimarc.com/trackball.html (https://www.ultimarc.com/trackball.html)
The downside of this deal:
NorthCoast Custom Arcade control panels are too big and look awkward.
He does not respond to texts though we spoke over the phone once so I have his number.
I don't know yet which controller he used (Ipac2 etc.)
Here is the description of the ad he posted in italic bold exactly word for word:
I built this control panel was built about 1.5 years ago and intended to put it on a machine for sale. I was building mame machines and selling them to friends. This one didn't make it onto a cabinet unfortunately. Its all brand new Joy sticks, buttons and roller ball. has pin ball buttons on the sides and front. Theres about $500 in just hardware here plus my time wiring up the unit. Its complete and ready to plug and play. The picture of the completed arcade is there to give you some ideas. but with this control panel the majority of the work is done. I'll also answer questions you might have during your build. Its a good deal. I'm pricing it at $150 , I need it sold fast.
Is it a good deal?
I know that I would enjoy taking my time to build my own and the value of that satisfaction is extremely valuable to me.
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I personally would pass, especially since you don't like the look of the panel.
I'm new to this, probably finishing up my first upright this Sunday, but that doesn't look close to $500 worth of hardware in that thing. I ordered way more for way less. Might be something I'm missing though.
I wouldn't count on much or any support after the sale. Especially over the phone; I think I would rather go totally solo than attempt that.
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It's a decent deal and probably less than you could source the parts for - How good of a deal depends on if you just wanted the parts or would actually use it as is.
Figure you have
35 - 40 +/- Happ buttons (depending on what pinball buttons can not be seen) with microswitches that would run about $1.50@
2 Happ 8 way joysticks about $10@
3 inch Trackball about $80 - $100
Which puts you around the $150 mark already and that doesn't include whatever type of encoders are under there - the control panel itself - shipping for the parts if ordered new - etc.
So if you'd use the parts it's a decent deal - not so much if you want LED buttons and don't have a use for those Happs - don't want a trackball on your panel - or want some other type of joystick - etc.
Though it never hurts to offer $100 and see if he'll take that !
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$150 is not a bad deal for the panel. Depending on the encoder being used (likely an IPAC), this is probably functionally a better panel than an X-Arcade Tankstick, for less money than what a Tankstick costs new (used Tanksticks can be had cheaper though). This panel has more inputs/hardware than a Tankstick, and it's a good assumption that whatever encoder being used is objectively better than an X-Arcade encoder.
The trackball mounting plate area needs to be routed if you want it flush-mounted for installing artwork. Both routing and artwork installation require complete disassembly of the panel.
If the aesthetics are not your cup of tea, I wouldn't go too far overboard trying to mod this one. Instead, I'd play with it a while, determine what you really need in a panel, and then build "your" panel. You could probably get your money back out of this a year or two onward.
If you just want a desktop panel to play some games with, you could do a lot worse for $150.
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$100 cash in hand and you'll pick it up tomorrow.
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As long as everything works and the box itself isn't about to fall apart, then it's a good deal. But you have to like it and know what your plan is with it or it's not even worth the drive. There are some simple changes that could make it look better, but it won't get any less wide. Does that work for your overall plan? You'll waste more money with untargeted purchases than a good deal can make up for.