The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Mameroom on April 30, 2016, 06:34:21 pm
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Ever wish that you could magically switch your existing joystick from 8-way to 4-way, and back again based on the game that you are playing? Up until now, your choices are limited to either one of the very few switchable joysticks, or installing both an 8-way and a 4-way joystick.
After 10 years of redesigning and waiting...a vision has been realized and is now available to everyone. Northcoast Custom Arcades proudly announces our new joystick restrictor that works with virtually any existing (or your favorite) josytick.
It installs extremely easy on the top of the control panel:
Simply remove your joystick handle, attach the restrictor using 4-screws, and reinsert your joystick handle! That's it. Switching from 4-way to 8-way (and vice versa) is as easy and sliding a switch!
http://www.mameroom.com/webstore.asp?productid=JOYSTICKRESTRICTOR&category=195 (http://www.mameroom.com/webstore.asp?productid=JOYSTICKRESTRICTOR&category=195)
Currently available for wood control panels only, but that's about to change soon as well.
Northcoast Custom Arcades
www.northcoastarcades.com (http://www.northcoastarcades.com)
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very interesting idea....i'm tempted
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It doesn't look like you can smoothly transition thru the corners? Like you have to return to neutral after every move? Instead of down-left you have to go down-neutral-left?
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It doesn't look like you can smoothly transition thru the corners? Like you have to return to neutral after every move? Instead of down-left you have to go down-neutral-left?
I'm interested but have similar concerns.
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Have you ever even seen a 4-way stick?
None of them have a cross shaped movement pattern.
Now I know your product line seems to be based on ripping off those with more money than sense. Please, please can I have a control panel overlay on my panel for an extra $130 dollars. Oooh, can my dedicated 4-way joystick just be happ's worst stick in 4-way mode instead of a true 4-way.
But you would think in all those years of that you would have at least looked at a 4-way joystick.
Apparently not.
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The patterns you are referring to are on the bottom of the joystick base. When you project these patterns up towards the top of the controller in a 3D cad model, they get exaggerated into the corners on our device if you want to maintain the same movements. While it looks like the joystick handle would be limited to a cross shaped pattern, with the spacing and tolerances, it actually translates into a diamand pattern (Will take and post a video). So basically, the movement of the joystick is exactly (or as close to as possible) the same as a happ 4-way stick. Our product comes with a satisfaction guarantee.
PaigeOliver, I'm not sure what your area of expertise is, but based on your rather immature response...it clearly is not engineering or running a business.
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The concerns about the movement of the joystick made us realize that many of our customers may have similar concerns. Thank you for providing that feedback. As a result, we have added another video to our webpage showing the movement of the Joystick in a diamond pattern almost identical to a Happ 4-way.
http://www.mameroom.com/webstore.asp?productid=JOYSTICKRESTRICTOR&category=195 (http://www.mameroom.com/webstore.asp?productid=JOYSTICKRESTRICTOR&category=195)
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I've also created the following diagram to illustrate the path of the joystick handle. The diagram on the left is with a standard Happ Controls Competition joystick at rest. The diagram on the right shows the handle shaft in all (normally) 8-way positions....thus creating the path (blue diamond) in the center.
(http://www.mameroom.com/images/JoystickPath.jpg)
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Interesting. I don't need this but interested in hearing reviews from members. I think for $140 you could get around 10 of these. Not sure where that number came from.
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I've also created the following diagram to illustrate the path of the joystick handle. The diagram on the left is with a standard Happ Controls Competition joystick at rest. The diagram on the right shows the handle shaft in all (normally) 8-way positions....thus creating the path (blue diamond) in the center.
(http://www.mameroom.com/images/JoystickPath.jpg)
My last job title was Chief Engineer. Arcade games are my area of expertise. Although I am currently a stay at home father who does game repairs on the side, specializing in monitors.
How does the transition feel from one position to the next? It looks ok in the video. Are these going to work with those terrible Chinese sticks with skinnier handles that most people seem to be using these days, if they do then I would be glad to spread the word about them, always makes me a little bit sad to see all those 60 in 1 machines people buy with Ms. Pac first on their mind only to have the game be pretty much unplayable.
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The smoothness of the transition varies upon a couple factors: The thickness of the handle's shaft, the thickness of the control panel (which affects the height of the restrictor plate...the throw of the joystick increases as the height increases), and the overall throw of the joysticks (some joysticks have greater ranges).
This is our "Universal" design that we want to introduce to the market. It was designed with Happ joysticks in mind as they have one of the thicker shafts.
We are currently working on different designs for specific joysticks, which will make the transitions more seamless.
To answer your question regarding the transitions on this model (when using a competition joystick): The path and smoothness of the joystick handle is extremely comparable to that of the 4-way Ultimate Joystick. However, when engaging the 4 positions fully, there is a "locked" position that is unavoidable. This "locked" position will go away once we start offering restrictors designed for the various joysticks available.
We are currently working on a design for use with the smaller shaft Japanese style joysticks which should be available in the next couple of days.
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Done. Happy to be trying this out. I will test this on my cp, and on the bartop I am in the process of building. Very intersting indeed!
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Ordered.
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I would order this, but I'm not crazy about drilling additional holes on the top of my panel, especially plexi. On a new build I wouldn't mind trying out and posting a review. Perhaps one day...
However, I will give you guys kudos on making the device look similar to a dust washer. Blends in pretty well. :applaud:
Good luck with sales!
DeL
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I picked one up to test it out, but I really don't have a build to put it on yet. However, I do want to provide some feedback on it. Looking forward to it, thanks!
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It installs extremely easy on the top of the control panel:
Unless you have a metal CP... In which case it's ---smurfing--- impossible...
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Needing those holes is a deal breaker, and I think I'd manage to rip those little screws right out. I'm also skeptical that the material will be able to hold up to the abuse.
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I am with PBJ on this one about those tiny little screws ripping out but if the people trying it out are really satisfied with it I think I may have the perfect project for it. I am looking forward to the reviews.
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Thankfully, my CP is still the prototype I did a couple years ago (life gets in the way!) so I am in a good position to test this. If it works well on my CP, I will then try it on the Bartop I am building for my friend's birthday (will be my official first build :P ). My stick is a Happ competition stick and my friend's is a Seimitsu clone stick.
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I just ordered one with the code. We'll see.
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Couple of announcements:
First, We released two new versions:
1) A version for most Japanese style joysticks (Sharing the same mounting pattern as most American Sticks)
2) A version for Zippy and Sanwa joysticks
These versions do not mount using the tiny screws, but use the same bolts for mounting the joysticks (no need to drill new holes).
Second, we have temporarily suspended sales for our metal control panel restrictors. All versions available are strictly for wood control panels (5/8" and 3/4" thick). Our metal control panel versions will be made from aluminum as they require additional durability. If you ordered a restrictor and have a metal control panel, please let us know.
(http://www.mameroom.com/images/JoystickRestrictor.png)(http://www.mameroom.com/images/JoystickRestrictor2.png)(http://www.mameroom.com/images/JoystickRestrictor3.png)
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Reusing the joystick mounting holes is a great idea.
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Reusing the joystick mounting holes is a great idea.
Unless you have CP art.
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I hope the one I get that lets me use the mounting holes. I'm a carriage bolt guy myself.
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Very interesting! Are there any installed photos of it in a panel?
I'm using seimitsu ls-32's in my wood panel, which is bacially 2 1/4 inch mdf panels put together. I used one of the seimitsu s-plates and a bit of shallow routing to sandwich the joystick plate between the layers and screw that from the underside. It kept things pretty clean from the top. Looks like that won't work here but it has me thinking for future ideas.
Would any of these plates fit the ls32? I hear the 'zippy' is an ls32 clone which gives me hope. I'm looking to build another revision of my panel after 2 years of 'playtesting' :laugh: so if I have to bump up the panel thickness I can consider it...
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Well I have received mine, photo and review coming very soon! (Board willing...)
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That New Sanwa version looks perfect for a Vigolix!
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We've been looking at the metal panel issue all wrong. The answer is somewhat simple. We are now making spacers/shims that will be inserted in between the metal panel and the joystick base (underneath the panel), to simulate a thicker material. We also have balltop joystick handle extenders to increase the height of the shaft if desired.
This same solution will now allow users with 1/2" thick wood panels to use a 5/8" or 3/4" joystick restrictor. If you've already received a restrictor and you have a 1/2" panel, you can simply use washers to increase the thickness of the control panel to the joystick base.
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Im in the process of building a metal control panel and would love to try one of these out. Im currently working on my art. Can you tell me the approximate diameter of this deal.
Thx.
Matt
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Received mine today. While I haven't had time to play with it, I do want to give MameRoom props on shipping it in a small box. I figured they would just toss it in an envelope. But shipping in the box has helped prevent any warping or bending. Good call.
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We've been looking at the metal panel issue all wrong. The answer is somewhat simple. We are now making spacers/shims that will be inserted in between the metal panel and the joystick base (underneath the panel), to simulate a thicker material. We also have balltop joystick handle extenders to increase the height of the shaft if desired.
This same solution will now allow users with 1/2" thick wood panels to use a 5/8" or 3/4" joystick restrictor. If you've already received a restrictor and you have a 1/2" panel, you can simply use washers to increase the thickness of the control panel to the joystick base.
Sorry, I'm not completely following. I have a metal CP and would really like this to work out, but I won't be able to drill holes. Does the underneath factor mean that holes won't be needed?
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Moving this to Reviews...
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,150713.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,150713.0.html)
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That New Sanwa version looks like a perfect fit for a Vigolix!
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So, if you're using the carriage bolts, how do you drop that in without accessing the bottom of the panel?
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Anyone have a chance to play with this yet? If it works, I'm definitely getting two of them.
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I'll will try to have my test done by the end of the week. Crazy busy schedule and in the middle of reno at home! ;D
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Interesting alternative
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Bit the bullet and ordered. If it works as advertised, it will save me tons of money by not having to build a whole other CP.
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ok it's been a year. Anyone else actually install these and how are they holding up?
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Mine's still in the original packaging. :-)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I've had mine installed for awhile. They work as advertised and saved me a heap of trouble/money. I think it works great and was well worth the investment for what I was looking for.
I can imagine that many here would object to the aesthetics of it. They're not the prettiest, but not objectionable to me for my setup.
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I've had mine installed for awhile. They work as advertised and saved me a heap of trouble/money. I think it works great and was well worth the investment for what I was looking for.
I can imagine that many here would object to the aesthetics of it. They're not the prettiest, but not objectionable to me for my setup.
I am a purist and that looks fine. While different, it doesn't look "wrong", that could totally be a joystick on a factory built machine.
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I've had mine installed for awhile. They work as advertised and saved me a heap of trouble/money. I think it works great and was well worth the investment for what I was looking for.
I can imagine that many here would object to the aesthetics of it. They're not the prettiest, but not objectionable to me for my setup.
It looks fine to me, definitely not bad. I'm considering getting a pair of them myself. What I'm worried about is how they feel. Do you notice the screw heads rubbing against your palm or anything else that might be unusual?
Thanks for posting the pic and any additional information.
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Its an interesting design... but I can not see that lasting a "Lifetime". Those thin plastic fins are going to wear down pretty fast from any decent amount of play. If you put this in a busy location, in a MsPacman... It probably would not last 3 months.
Also, due to the sharp nature of contact points, and low surface area (thickness of the walls), ... its going to dig into any bats plastic shaft as well.
Now, maybe if you are one of these people whom play with no force or frenzy at all... you may get longer lasting results. But typical players will see wear.
Being a former arcade mgr.. I used to have Happ's 8-way joystick spacers wear down like crazy. Maybe 6 months... then you had to flip them over. You would look down into the control panel, and see fine white dust piles... from where the spacer grindings landed.
I suppose if its cheap enough, people wont mind replacing it, regardless.
Even the Old Wico 4ways, which used a fairly thick plastic diamond shaped hole.. reinforced with an internal metal part.. would wear down eventually. The Old Bally 4 ways, were probably the best... in that they had a thick solid metal top diamond, and a replaceable bottom mounted diamond made of plastic. The rubber grommet helped greatly to reduce impact and thus, reduce outer-edge wear.
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What I'm worried about is how they feel. Do you notice the screw heads rubbing against your palm or anything else that might be unusual?
It's not uncomfortable but you definitely feel that it's there. I don't notice the screws, which are pretty small, but I do notice the edge of the plate itself. It's a fairly hard plastic with a texture on it and the corners aren't rounded at all.
Again, not uncomfortable and it doesn't bother me, but it's not an invisible experience.
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Just run a file around the edge to break the corner. Makes all the difference in the world.