The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Guywiththegun on April 13, 2016, 10:38:48 am
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I currently have some wood braces mounted in my cab at an angle, so the Control Panel top will sit on top of them. Its not entirely flush (new at measuring/cutting) but it does the job. It sits pretty nicely but obviously I need to secure it so it won't move during play.
I've been considering just putting some velcro strips on top of the braces, and under the panel top in the corresponding area, so when I put it down it will stick. My concern is noise. When I think of Velcro, I think of that constant "ripping" sound with any friction. Does anyone have experience with this? Don't think I can live with that Velcro noise with every movement/shift/bump a Control Panel may get with playing games.
Any input is appreciated.
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Is there a reason you can't use a control panel latch like this one?
(http://thearcadeboneyard.com/new_arcade_parts/images/control%20panel%20latch%20and%20catch.JPG)
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That's probably my second option but I liked the idea of having support all the way down the top rather than one area, plus the ease of installation and just ripping it off if/when I need to. Noise is the deal breaker though.
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That's probably my second option but I liked the idea of having support all the way down the top rather than one area, plus the ease of installation and just ripping it off if/when I need to. Noise is the deal breaker though.
Don't jank out. Go with the latches.
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If the Velcro is making noise while playing, then it's not doing it's job. Plus, if you can hear the "crackle" of the Velcro over your speakers, then you are not playing your game loud enough. ;)
Actually, I'd be more concerned that the adhesive-backing on the velcro would be strong enough to stick to the wood. It should at least be smooth painted wood. I suppose you could also staple the velcro too.
I dunno...velcro is not totally perfect. Small nudges over long periods of time and the control panel could shift around.
If you build your CP correctly, then you will not really need to get inside there very often.
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That's probably my second option but I liked the idea of having support all the way down the top rather than one area, plus the ease of installation and just ripping it off if/when I need to. Noise is the deal breaker though.
Don't jank out. Go with the latches.
Agreed. Unless your application requires something really unique. Then I'd use the latches. Latches are tried and true.
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It also depends if he has access to the CP from underneath. Normally with the latches, you need to have access through the coin door.
A) Does he have a coin door?
B) Does the CP box have an opening on the bottom large enough to fit your hand in to unlatch them?
Pic would help, but we definitely need more info as to the design and form factor of the CP.
DeL
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My cabinet is essentially divided in two because I made a 'shelf' underneath the control panel for it to sit on (and also to house a decased pc, which I may be reconsidering).
My panel hinges forward, but because there is no path from the coin door to the underside of the control panel, I used sliding bolt latches like you might find on a gate.
I used felt pads where the control panel touches the shelf, so I have to apply a little downward pressure before the latches will slide home.
This small amount of pressure keep the control panel rock solid and there is no movement or noise whatsoever.
Now, my shelf construction is unorthodox, but the felt padding idea would work with standard control panel catches too, preventing any play or noise.
I agree with the above opinion that Velcro is a cop-out method. Go with hinges and some kind of mechanical catches.
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Those latches suggested above are dependent that you have access from underneath.
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I use piano hinges and velcro, never hear anything.
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It also depends if he has access to the CP from underneath. Normally with the latches, you need to have access through the coin door.
A) Does he have a coin door?
B) Does the CP box have an opening on the bottom large enough to fit your hand in to unlatch them?
Pic would help, but we definitely need more info as to the design and form factor of the CP.
DeL
I will have a coin door, so I should be able to unlatch. The cab is an old Kangaroo. I can't get a pic right now but here's a quick drawing of the setup:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/xp58q1.png)
The back of the control panel is attached to the top with L brackets already, so it rests pretty neatly on the braces. Basically my thought was to have the velcro on top of the braces to secure it. After the comments here I'm leaning towards clamps. These specifically:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Arcade-Control-Panel-Lock-Down-Latch-Set-of-2-JAMMA-Multicade-Pinball-etc-/221564713850?hash=item3396493b7a:g:KUYAAOSwRLZULJ2V (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Arcade-Control-Panel-Lock-Down-Latch-Set-of-2-JAMMA-Multicade-Pinball-etc-/221564713850?hash=item3396493b7a:g:KUYAAOSwRLZULJ2V)
Anyone know the typical dimensions of these off hand?
One concern is the panel is sitting on the braces, but in some areas the braces aren't quite even/flush (like I said, I'm still getting used to cutting). If I have it clamped down, will the pressure on areas its not completely flush mess with the wood? That was partly my reasoning for velcro too, as I figured it would even things out.
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You're over thinking it. Clamp holds down panel. End of story.
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You're over thinking it. Clamp holds down panel. End of story.
lol, fair enough
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I use piano hinges and velcro, never hear anything.
Yep. The CPs on my first cocktail all used hinges and Velcro and never had an issue with movement or sound.
Now Velcro without a fixed connector like a hinge. On a large panel. YMMV.
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I used commercial grade velcro as a temporary set up and it is so wicked hard to get off that I decided to leave it that way. the clamps have been sitting in the keyboard draw for years now; never serving their purpose :'(