Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Arcade Collecting => Restorations & repair => Topic started by: Malenko on March 17, 2016, 01:40:13 pm
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Picked up a faux Dynamo HS5 cab when I got my real HS5 cab. Couldn't find any manufacturer labels or anything of that ilk, but it has a real Dynamo HS-5 control panel along with a pull out drawer (that uses latches to secure instead of just gate slides). other major difference is the lack of the "box" on the bottom yet its still the same height as an HS5.
Here's how I got it (the soul edge cab in the back is now my Multi CPS2)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345502;image)
First thing I did was remove the clown car sized caster wheels off the bottom.
It's currently set to vertical orientation and has Strikers 1945 in it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345336;image)
Has a pretty gnarly monitor bracket:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345510;image)
All I've really gotten done so far is start to patch the front , it looked like someone ran over gravel with a lawn mower and shot the rocks at the front.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345338;image)
And I started stripping the control panel, that blue camo has to go.
Never found pennies under a dust washer before:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345504;image)
depopulated:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345506;image)
Either the holes weren't punched right, or this is a bad bootlegged art:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345508;image)
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Clone or not, still looks like a pretty awesome cabinet. Gonna be a sweet restore Mal!
I may have the perfect theme for this one:
(http://i.imgur.com/pg43Xbv.gif)
>:D
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let me know if you're going to get rid of that Strikers board.
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I got one of these. Can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the lower back panel. Interested if you have this figured out.
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@Opt: Thats a thought! I have no clue what direction Im going with this build yet.
@HBM: This might be my legit vertical cab, so I'll be hounding you for shmup PCBs :p If its not I think Haruman already called dibs
@PHU: When I get that far, I'll let you know!
So got to strippin the rest of the CP art:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345541;image)
and in case you were wondering it, the holes are punch WAY off of where they should be:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345545;image)
and this angle for no reason:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345543;image)
My buddy said he can get this powder-coated for me for cheap, if he cant, I'll just rattle can it.I plan to have the front completely patched tonight.
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Powder coat it, rattle canning that hinge is a pain in the ass I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.
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Powder coat it, rattle canning that hinge is a pain in the ass I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.
Guy never got back to me, Im tired of waiting for people.
Here is the CP fully stripped and with all the glue removed:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345729;image)
8 layers of flat black:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345731;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345733;image)
Not shown is I wrapped it in black vinyl, cut the "cut corners" , cleaned the plexi, and reinstalled:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345735;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345737;image)
It actually turned out better than anticipated! I will design art for it later, next up is to finish fixing the front then get started on the sides.
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Malenko, thanks for posting photos of your restorations. We don't get enough of those here. I've never restored a cab, but I would like to one day, and I'm learning a lot from your threads. :cheers:
Any tips on painting that hinge?
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Malenko, thanks for posting photos of your restorations. We don't get enough of those here. I've never restored a cab, but I would like to one day, and I'm learning a lot from your threads. :cheers:
Any tips on painting that hinge?
+1 I too would like some tips on painting the hinge as well as removing old CPO art. It is my understanding that both can be a real bear. I saw some citri-strip in the background of one of those pics. Was that for just the paint or for the adhesive as well?
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I've always just done a thin coat on the hinges... touch up three years later if necessary....
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It might depend on the paint as well, I painted mine with metallic flake, homeboy was smart and went flat black.
Still hinge painting sucks balls.
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Any tips on painting that hinge?
Slow and steady, flat black hides imperfections really well. I planned to cover the top part in art so to be honest I wasnt really that concerned with how the paint turned out on that part.
I saw some citri-strip in the background of one of those pics. Was that for just the paint or for the adhesive as well?
I used that to try and get the adhesive off, it failed, miserably. Ended up using goof off and smelling terrible for 3 days.
I've always just done a thin coat on the hinges... touch up three years later if necessary....
This is exactly right. Paint a thin coat, move the hinge after it dries, paint another thin coat, repeat until totally covered.
It might depend on the paint as well, I painted mine with metallic flake, homeboy was smart and went flat black.
Still hinge painting sucks balls.
I am 100% sure I'd still be painting this is if I used anything other than a flat black. Metallic flake must have been a huge pain in the dick.
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Looking good, my friend.
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So for PHU I pulled the back door off. Mine was held in with 2 screws, but it was originally stapled in. So PHU, if you wanna pull that door off, you're going to have to brute force it, or pull the monitor and bang the inside with a mallet/hammer to knock it loose.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345815;image)
That square of 2x4s is an add on to have enough clearance for the frame. If I keep this cab vert it'll have to stay, if I rotate the monitor back to horizontal I'll scrap it.
Heres what I found in the back:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345813;image)
$28 in quarters , 40-ish tokens, Strikers 1945 dipswitch sheet, Final Fight kit manual, no refunds card, a movie stub for Space Jam, and a Prince William Forum out of order sign.
$3 is still to much to see that movie:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345819;image)
and my new Out of Order sign:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345821;image)
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This is why I love following Malenko's threads. Good stuff. :D
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Agreed, that's some good stuff there. :applaud:
My vote: Make it a vertical SHMUP cab.
DeL
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Agreed, that's some good stuff there. :applaud:
My vote: Make it a vertical SHMUP cab.
DeL
(http://www.atomictango.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/guinness-brilliant1.jpg)
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Damn...$3 matinees! That brings me back...
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My vote: Make it a vertical SHMUP cab.
Its already a vert shmup cab, I'm just afraid I wont be able to afford (m)any PCBs. I looked at that "king of air" PCB but Ive heard nothing but bad things about lag and it doesnt support 15Hz out.
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Figure out mame and a jpac, or I'll shoot your Aero Fighters and Twin Eagle on the cheap.
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So for PHU I pulled the back door off. Mine was held in with 2 screws, but it was originally stapled in. So PHU, if you wanna pull that door off, you're going to have to brute force it, or pull the monitor and bang the inside with a mallet/hammer to knock it loose.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345815;image)
Thanks bud. I was afraid of that. Was hoping maybe there was a hole plug covering screws somewhere that were hidden with paint-over. I am going to find the strongest magnet I can and figure out where the staples/screws are and see if I can more gently, brute force it.
Coincidentally, I picked up a real HS5 HS9 today for a buck seventy-five. Quite a steal considering it had a NAOMI board with MvC2 in it! I'll get to starting its own restoration thread sometime soon.
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That's a pretty sweet pick up PHU! If you wanna sell the NAOMI, Im interested.
So here's a backside shot I took for some reason, why let it go to waste?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345924;image)
Removed the coin door and the sliding shelf and finished fixing the front:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345926;image)
First coat of primer:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345928;image)
last coat of primer:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345930;image)
first coat of black:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=345932;image)
I have 2 coats of black on so far, should get 2 more coats on today, then a final coat tomorrow, then I get started on the sides. Not shown, but I painted the inside of the light area with primer and Im going to leave it like that to help disperse the light better. The light fixture is made for 2 bulbs, so I replaced the incandescent bulbs with 2 florescent bulbs. They are mega bright, might need to put a sheet of white paper behind the marquee. I also painted over the existing black on the top of the cab since the only real problem with the paint is that it was high gloss and you'll probably never see it anyway. Did the same for the backdoor. I did patch up the monitor "door" and prime and paint it too, that's whats in front of the cab in the last pic.
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QuanChi checkin out the final coat of black on the front and back:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346016;image)
Getting started on the right side:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346018;image)
Sand patch sand patch sand patch etc:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346020;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346022;image)
And first (of many) coats of primer)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346024;image)
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Daaaaahhhmmn. I could sit and do restores if I had Audi money... ;D
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Daaaaahhhmmn. I could sit and do restores if I had Audi money... ;D
Ha, that's my wife's car, I drive a bottom of the line 2010 Scion tC. I also work more than 40 hours a week and it really cuts into my restore time. Luckily, I got the body work done in 1 day on that side, hoping to have all the priming done today so I can flip it over and get started on the left side body work.
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I have that same double light bulb setup in my HS-5, too. I used LED bulbs in mine.
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So, priming is done on that side (8 coats!)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346094;image)
got the patching all done on the other side:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346096;image)
and got the priming started:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346098;image)
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so all the paint is on:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346356;image)
Put the old molding and marquee on so I dont loose them:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346358;image)
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Coming along nice! Wow, 8 coats of primer and 5 coats of black, I don't think I've seen that many done in any of the tutorial vids I've watched. How long in between coats and did you sand? Is there an advantage to painting it on it's sides rather than leaving it upright?
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Coming along nice! Wow, 8 coats of primer and 5 coats of black, I don't think I've seen that many done in any of the tutorial vids I've watched. How long in between coats and did you sand? Is there an advantage to painting it on it's sides rather than leaving it upright?
I tend to sand a lot off and my first coat or 2 is very thin, so my 8 coats is probably the same thickness as 3 or 4 regular coats. When I tried fewer coats or sanded less, the area that was patched with bondo stuck out like a sore thumb. The advantage for me of painting it on its side is my back hurts a lot less.
I just wish game molding and focus attack would get me my orders already. I still need to draw up a marquee and CPO
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I tend to sand a lot off and my first coat or 2 is very thin, so my 8 coats is probably the same thickness as 3 or 4 regular coats. When I tried fewer coats or sanded less, the area that was patched with bondo stuck out like a sore thumb. The advantage for me of painting it on its side is my back hurts a lot less.
That makes sense.
How long do you let it dry in between coats?
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early coats 2 hours , last 2 or 3 overnight.
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early coats 2 hours , last 2 or 3 overnight.
That's good to know. I was waiting 12 hours or overnight for every single coat, takes forever that way.
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early coats 2 hours , last 2 or 3 overnight.
Thanks, that is interesting to know. Between prep work, doing one side at a time and the waiting in between coats that's one long process.
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I tend to sand a lot off and my first coat or 2 is very thin, so my 8 coats is probably the same thickness as 3 or 4 regular coats. When I tried fewer coats or sanded less, the area that was patched with bondo stuck out like a sore thumb. The advantage for me of painting it on its side is my back hurts a lot less.
Now that's a labour of love that I totally agree with. :)
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Got the new tmolding color:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=346533;image)
I have new buttons from Opt2Not , and my package from FocusAttack got delivered today. If I get the art sorted I should have one final update soon.
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man that looks slick! Love the Red/White!
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So what do you have planned for this one?
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So what do you have planned for this one?
no spoilers! Well, its a Shmup cab, White, with red highlights. Im working on the art and Opt2Not is making fun of it every step of the way ;)
Kidding, Bryan is a being a HUGE help with feedback, Im sure it'd look like complete horseshit without him.
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Damn, that is looking good, Mal. Ace work as usual.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thanks for the jäger!
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no spoilers! Well, its a Shmup cab, White, with red highlights. Im working on the art and Opt2Not is making fun of it every step of the way ;)
Kidding, Bryan is a being a HUGE help with feedback, Im sure it'd look like complete horseshit without him.
Wait, it's going to be a Shmup cab? >:D
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haha, you already knew!
So got the monitor sorted, just need to finish the art and make another custom mounting plate, then you know, buy a bunch of shmup boards.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347000;image)
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haha, you already knew!
So got the monitor sorted, just need to finish the art and make another custom mounting plate, then you know, mortgage my house and buy a bunch of shmup boards.
FTFY.
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That tube needs rejuvenated.
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Instead of leaving it in pieces while I figure out art, I put it all back together so I can actually play it. Two more SHMUP boards are on the way!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347619;image)
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Thanks to my Vulcan Brother (Thanks James!) I have Twin Eagle and AeroFighters!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347683;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=347685;image)
Dat AeroFighters PCB is HUGE like the size of MK3
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Sweet Action Jackson....
Got to get after it on mine...
Are you just going to hot swap boards for this project?
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Are you just going to hot swap boards for this project?
Yesh, I have a shelf with a new box marked "vertical JAMMA PCBs" where all these will go. a Multi-JAMMA harness sounds awesome, but I dont see myself switching games enough to justify the work/cost. I might even leave the strikers marquee as is and keep the black CP; its a simple look but I dig it.
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other than adding to the PCB collection, stick a fork in it, its done!
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Looking mint as always. It's nice to see generic cabs get a proper restore too :applaud: