Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Artwork => Topic started by: TurboJugend on February 18, 2016, 08:35:54 am
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So I’m almost ready to have my artwork printed at GOG. This will be my first time to install adhesive backed vinyl, and I’m a bit anxious. I’ve watched the “side art install 101” video about half a dozen times. I’m just looking for any extra tips or advice from the braintrust before I dive in. Are there any other good instructional videos out there? Is there a consensus on whether to apply it dry or with a light spray of water? Also, I’m assuming it’s a good idea to oversize my artwork a bit so I can come back and trim the excess. Is 1” on all sides a good buffer?
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slightly over is good provided you aren't cutting too much of the actual art off.
you will want to leave the backing paper on and position the art in place. peel a small section off and tear the backing off. use this small portion to stick the art to the cab to make sure it's straight etc. you want to mainly make sure you aren't going to run off an edge or something.
then just fold back the art and grab the remaining backing paper and bend it back over itself. then you can use a dowel or your hands to gradually smooth out the art. this way you don't have any air bubbles or wrinkles.
i made you a small potato quality video to explain. It's a small vinyl decal, but the principal is the same, just a larger size. with a large side art sized piece i would just work my way across back and forth as the backing peels away.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLyZ8s6zCHA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLyZ8s6zCHA)
if for some reason you end up with an air pocket you can pop it with a needle and smooth out the air. don't press the bubble down while it's sealed, the vinyl will stretch and it won't lie flat after.
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I just installed my side art and learned a few things along the way. Definitely make the art larger on all sides than the actual cabinet. 1" should be plenty. The mistake I made is that on the first side I did, I cut off all the overhanging artwork flush with the cabinet. This shows a lot of imperfections. On the second side I left the art a little long and folded over the extra. When the t-molding is installed you cant see it and it looks more finished.
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Not necessarily necessary, but I highly recommend a "cloth edged" squeegee. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RI8ZRTG (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RI8ZRTG)
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i usually use the backing paper I tear off and my hand. the plastic coating is pretty slippery and makes your hand slide pretty easily over the art.
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Appreciate all the advice. I was lucky enough to get a large sample of adhesive vinyl from a local print shop. I'm going to practice on a spare piece of plywood before I apply my actual artwork.
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I see nobody has answered whether to install the artwork wet or dry yet, so I'll answer that for you. It totally depends on the type of vinyl GoG sends you. If the vinyl has the air channel on the adhesive side, DON'T use any type water or application fluid. If it doesn't have an air channel, a little bit of soapy water or application fluid can be very helpful to a first time installer.
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Can anyone recommend a good process for removing a CPO, and prepping the control panel for application of a new CPO? My main concerns are: a) thorough removal of the existing CPO, and b) thorough cleaning of the surface (including left-behind adhesive).
The scenario: I own a Capcom "Big Blue" cabinet. When I bought it (about 10 years ago), the CPO was nasty. I removed it at that time and applied a correct repro for the cabinet, however, the existing CPO did not come off cleanly, and there was a lot of adhesive left behind, creating a less-than-perfect surface which manifests through the new CPO. The new CPO is starting to get some wear, and that coupled with the imperfect install, is creating for me the desire to replace it and do it right this time.
Any help appreciated!
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The best I can think of would be to use a scraping blade on a multitool and deal woth wiping lots of the adhesive off the blade as you go depending on how sticky it still is. Once that's all/mostly removed, bring in the orbital sander with 40-60grit to get the rest off. From there evaluate the subsurface, and repair as necessary - I'd recommend bondo if you're working the edges, high strength wood filler will do if you're only filling a few small interior imperfections. Once that surface is smooth and clean, I'd do the usual coats of primer and paint and letting dry for two days - the decal still needs a better surface to adhere to than wood & repair material IMO - others opinions may vary.
After that, source your new decals. I happen to have three NOS CapCom control panel overlays - the fake metal plate one, with CapCom logo front center. One is intended for the BigBlue Street Fighter Ii CE in the garage on my to restore list (still habe sourcing the red CapCom side art decals on my todo list), but I could be talked out of the others.
Good luck!
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So I’m almost ready to have my artwork printed at GOG. This will be my first time to install adhesive backed vinyl, and I’m a bit anxious. I’ve watched the “side art install 101” video about half a dozen times. I’m just looking for any extra tips or advice from the braintrust before I dive in. Are there any other good instructional videos out there? Is there a consensus on whether to apply it dry or with a light spray of water? Also, I’m assuming it’s a good idea to oversize my artwork a bit so I can come back and trim the excess. Is 1” on all sides a good buffer?
For me it's the wet method using Rapidtac. Some folks use Windex. I've tried Windex and have had issues with it and went back to RapidTac. I doubt GOG is using the bubble-free medium but even if they are the wet method will still work fine. I just did full sideart for a Ms. Pac on 3M bubble-free vinyl and still used the wet method. It went on nice and smooth and adhered fine.
If Rich is not using the 3M bubble free medium you may want to find another printer that is. I've used Dan Soulsby from Mentor Signs and "Escape Pod" in Ohio. He can ship anywhere and print custom art as well. I've done both custom and stock art from him. Plus he can also print vinyl and reverse apply it to lexan for a screen printed look on marquees and bezels.
As for removing your adhesive I would try a chemical stripper like Citristrip. That stuff is awesome. The trick for getting adhesive off is to keep the stripper from drying out and scrape off while still wet.
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Most stuff is covered here. I watched the install video where he started applying his side art at the bottom and working his way up. I tried this but had trouble keeping the lines straight. So, I lined everything up using small 2" clamps(cloth under to protect vinyl). Undid top clamps, peeled back 1/2 way. Snipped two small spots from bleed in both sides of center and peeled a 4" backing strip from middle. Then apply 1/2 from middle to top. Remove clamps from bottom, finish from middle to bottom of vinyl. It just felt easier keeping lines straight starting from the middle and working towards the ends. Anyway, thought I'd throw out what worked for me.
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Missed behrmr post while typing. I used Lucian045 (Brad) and he uses the bubble free vinyl for the sides - stuff works great. Highly recommend Brad if your looking for a printer.
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So I’m almost ready to have my artwork printed at GOG. This will be my first time to install adhesive backed vinyl, and I’m a bit anxious. I’ve watched the “side art install 101” video about half a dozen times. I’m just looking for any extra tips or advice from the braintrust before I dive in. Are there any other good instructional videos out there? Is there a consensus on whether to apply it dry or with a light spray of water? Also, I’m assuming it’s a good idea to oversize my artwork a bit so I can come back and trim the excess. Is 1” on all sides a good buffer?
For me it's the wet method using Rapidtac. Some folks use Windex. I've tried Windex and have had issues with it and went back to RapidTac. I doubt GOG is using the bubble-free medium but even if they are the wet method will still work fine. I just did full sideart for a Ms. Pac on 3M bubble-free vinyl and still used the wet method. It went on nice and smooth and adhered fine.
If Rich is not using the 3M bubble free medium you may want to find another printer that is. I've used Dan Soulsby from Mentor Signs and "Escape Pod" in Ohio. He can ship anywhere and print custom art as well. I've done both custom and stock art from him. Plus he can also print vinyl and reverse apply it to lexan for a screen printed look on marquees and bezels.
As for removing your adhesive I would try a chemical stripper like Citristrip. That stuff is awesome. The trick for getting adhesive off is to keep the stripper from drying out and scrape off while still wet.
Thanks for the Shout-out Sir!