Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Driving & Racing Cabinets => Topic started by: MikeAlex on November 23, 2015, 09:40:37 am
-
Hi guy!
I have a Cruis’n USA cab that i recently mamed using the Logitech Driving Force hack. (this one: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/61/Logitech-Driving-Force-PS3.jpg ) As I was testing the wiring of the wheel to the control panel, I plugged the wrong PSU to the wheel and the FFB chip died… :banghead: The rest of the wheel is still working fine (buttons, pots and all…). Since I cannot get another wheel to replace the board I thought of another a temporary solution.
Is there any way to force the centering of the wheel by powering the ffb motor in order to have some resistance while playing? I have almost no knowledge about how these motors work so forgive me if my question is trivial. Also, keep in mind that I have an amplifier that worked ok before the ffb chip blew up…
Thanks!
Mike.
-
You can short the wires on the motor to increase its stiffness, but it won't auto center that way.
You could try using an arduino or something - read in the pot (to know if the wheel is "left" or "right" of center, and flip two pins HIGH or LOW depending on direction center would be.
-
If you go the arduino way, please, share the "project": arduino has always fascinated me, but i have nver had the time to take a closer look... this could be a good starting point
-
It's probably cheaper/easier to just buy another used wheel to replace the fried PCB.
You say the ffb chip is fried. Do you know that for sure or are you calling the entire circuit board a "chip"?
There might be something on there repairable if you can solder in a new component.
I'd think something would burn up before the ffb chip.
-
Also see this thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135310.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135310.0.html)
and related ebay item: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221903305140?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/221903305140?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
-
Thanks for the replies!
Hmmm...so there doesn't seem to be an easy solution to that... The Immersion Board way is too expensive for me and using an arduino is above my willingness to learn how to use it.... ;D
Badmouth, I don't mean the circuit board, I mean the chip that controls the FFB motor. I know it doesn't work because it desoldered itself from the board! :laugh:
Anyway, I think I'll follow Badmouth's advice and wait to get another logitech wheel.
Thanks for the help guys and gals!
-
Unless something has changed the immersion board is around 35 dollars on ebay right now.
-
Thanks for the replies!
Hmmm...so there doesn't seem to be an easy solution to that... The Immersion Board way is too expensive for me and using an arduino is above my willingness to learn how to use it.... ;D
Badmouth, I don't mean the circuit board, I mean the chip that controls the FFB motor. I know it doesn't work because it desoldered itself from the board! :laugh:
Anyway, I think I'll follow Badmouth's advice and wait to get another logitech wheel.
Thanks for the help guys and gals!
Please post a pic. I still don't believe you're talking about the actual microprocessor.
If it's one of the mosfets or something, it might be worth trying to replace.
(https://cdn.sparkfun.com//assets/parts/4/5/5/5/10213-01.jpg)
-
i googled up some pics of the logitech board. looks like uses a switching FET in a surface mount DIP case. if that's the case, it should be easily convertible to a standard to-220 FET or tranny and be able to handle more heat.
see if you can find a part number of the blown part. i can probably cross it to a standard part.
-
Badmouth, the chip that desoldered itself is in the red square, I believe it's not a mosfet but then again, I'm not electronic engineer... :) Only the FFB is not working, the rest works fine!
Thanks Howard, I'm considering the immersion board but I’ll be waiting for one to be available closer to where I live (Europe) because the postage costs are prohibitive (for me).
-
That would be the H-Bridge IC. I'll check my boards for a part number, maythe we can just replace it (though soldering will be p.i.t.a.)
Where in europe are you located? I have a few of those boards from wrecked wheels (kids tend to break the physical limiter)
-
maybe an LM293D would work? its a chip commonly used with arduinos and whatnot. it's available in a standard DIP package anyways. you'd just have to solder some tag wires to the pads.
not impossible with some soldering skills.
-
Badmouth, the chip that desoldered itself is in the red square, I believe it's not a mosfet but then again, I'm not electronic engineer... :) Only the FFB is not working, the rest works fine!
Thanks Howard, I'm considering the immersion board but I’ll be waiting for one to be available closer to where I live (Europe) because the postage costs are prohibitive (for me).
yep, that's a chip! sorry to doubt you.
I too am no electrical engineer. If it's big, burnt and has numbers on it I try replacing it, but nothing like the skilz lilshawn & SailorSat have.
If shopping for another wheel, try and get the exact same model you had.
Most of the people who used a driving force EX http://timwheatley.org/www/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/drivingforceex.jpg (http://timwheatley.org/www/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/drivingforceex.jpg)
experienced a "wobble" effect where the centering feedback would slingshot the wheel back and forth past center.
The solution was to turn the centering feedback way down, which kinda defeats the purpose.
I don't know for sure that using that wheel was the issue, but I did notice the two people who were happy with the hack were using the older wheel in your picture.
(the one that was used in Mark Shaker's original tutorial)
-
The (fried) chip would be a A3953SLB
(http://www.sumzi.com/upload/images/editorUp/2007/09/7399a2197a894f2785ba269a426020ea.jpg)
-
SailorSat, I’m located in Greece and It would be really nice if you have such a board and if it’s no trouble! I would pay for the postage of course! Soldering the chip though is beyond my soldering skills :)
Badmouth, Yes, I’m aware of the “wobble” effect with the EX, that’s why I chose the older model. The thing is that before I blew the chip up, I tested the wheel with the Logitech configuration program and though the ffb demos worked perfect, the effect was amazing, the wheel wouldn’t center, it would go all the way to the right once the effects stopped…but that’s a discussion for later, once I get the ffb fixed! ;)