Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: spidermonkey on January 09, 2004, 11:58:36 pm
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Hi guys, I just got back from "Funspot" in New Hampshire. 200 plus classic arcade games under one roof :D. Anyway, the reason I'm posting is because I noticed that on ALOT of the games the black round disc is mounted underneath the control panel instead of just laying on top. I know that this can only be done if the control panel is metal but what holds the discs underneath the metal cp ? The disc obviously has to be able to move when the joystick moves. Does anyone have a picture of the underside of a metal control panel from an original game so that I could see what type of retainer is holding these discs up ? I'm in the process of building a metal cp for my 2nd MAME cab and I'd really like to mount these underneath this time. I think it looks more professional then just laying on top. I didn't have a choice on my first cab because I had already made the cp out of 3/4" plywood and because its so thick I pretty much had to have the discs on top otherwise I'd see the drilled out wood where the joystick shaft passes through. Any pics would be a great help.
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The disc moves in the recess of the joystick. Note how the base of the joy isn't flat; there is a small recess on top. All the joysticks I've seen have been that way, anyway.
You can do it with a wooden CP as well. You have to route out the area where the disc will be, and place a metal plate on top. At least that's how the Mortal Kombat III CP I have appears to be. You then put in some T Nuts and bolt the joy in from the bottom.
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There are pictures of how I routed the space for the discs and recessed the tee-nuts on my multiwilliams panels here: www.oscarcontrols.com/sinistar.
But for your original question, Peale is correct. The disc sits in the recess of the joystick base, you don't have to do anything special. Below are pics of a handheld controller I made from an extruded aluminum case. The joystick is a Happ Comp and I have the disc below the cp surface.
http://www.oscarcontrols.com/supergun/controller2.jpg
http://www.oscarcontrols.com/supergun/controller4.jpg
http://www.oscarcontrols.com/supergun/controller6.jpg
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How did you make sure the overlay doesn't stick to the dust shield? You don't indicate a cover.
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How did you make sure the overlay doesn't stick to the dust shield? You don't indicate a cover.
I'm assuming you mean me?
On my multiwilliams the dust covers were installed under the plexi. Then the overlay is applied on top of the plexi.
On my little controller the dust covers are installed under the aluminum surface, and the overlay is applied on top.
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Yes, I meant you.
I assumed that the plexi went on top of everything. Now I get it. Sharp job, that. Gotta love routers! Got a plunge router for XMAS, don't know how I ever got along without one before.
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Oh man, now I'm embarrased. ::). Talk about being blind to the obvious ! I've seen that little lip going around the top of the joystick base a thousand times and it never entered my thick scull that its there to allow just enough spacing for the disc to sit in there and be loose enough to move.
THINK SPIDERMONKEY THINK ! ::)
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Since I'm new to using a router, I have a question for you, Oscar.
I want to get the thickness correct on what I'm planning on using as a spacer. IE you're using plexiglass. How do you adjust the thickness to make sure it's not sticking up above, or down below?
Did you buy a circle jig, or make one? Do you have pics of it?
How do you make sure that what you're routing out is the same size of what you're putting in (the plexi). I made one out of steel, but the hole is bigger than the steel. Now I have to fill in the edges with either Bondo or wood filler.
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Since I'm new to using a router, I have a question for you, Oscar.
I want to get the thickness correct on what I'm planning on using as a spacer. IE you're using plexiglass. How do you adjust the thickness to make sure it's not sticking up above, or down below?
I use the material itself for the gage. Say I want to route the depth for a piece of plexi, what I do is place the plexi on a flat hard surface (like a work table). Then put the base of the router on the plexi with the bit placed just off the edge of the plexi. Finally adjust the plunge depth of the bit down to the surface of the work table. This pic probably will show it better than I can explain.
(http://www.oscarcontrols.com/tmp/route-depth.jpg)
Did you buy a circle jig, or make one? Do you have pics of it?
I have both of these jigs.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=40970
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=40968
When using a circle jig like these, you put place the material you are cutting on a piece of scrap wood and make sure the pivot pin goes through both pieces. This ensure that the pivot pin stays in place when you complete the circle and the "donut hole" is free from the surrounding wood.
How do you make sure that what you're routing out is the same size of what you're putting in (the plexi). I made one out of steel, but the hole is bigger than the steel. Now I have to fill in the edges with either Bondo or wood filler.
This is trickier without an inlay set like http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=41779. I don't have an inlay set, so I do it manually. What I do is trace the item to be inlaid in the wood right onto the surface of the wood. Then I route out the 'guts' trying to stay about 1/16" ~ 1/8" away from the trace line. Then I go back and clean up the traced line with a hammer and chisel. This isn't quite as hard as it may sound, provided you have a good set of sharp wood chisels.
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Nice. I figured it had to be something like that.
Now I have to get my hands on a chisel.