Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: mclovin on November 09, 2015, 04:49:57 pm
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I have messed with the focus of my 27" WG D9200. It's really not bad, but I'm wondering if anyone recommends doing a cap kit even though there are no current issues other than its a bit out of focus on the small white lettering? Or maybe this is one of those times to don't fix it if it ain't broke. I'm planing on keeping this game for a long time, so I'm just trying to get advise of it is worth being pro-active?
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There are 70+ caps on the D9200, so clear your weekend.
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Damn, so I'm guessing that means I should do it regardless of wether It needs it or not?
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No, you have not. Expecially if you do not feel confident in it.
Have fun with it as it is good for you ;)
Not sure if it's the D9200 case, probably not, but there are chassis (Sanyo 20EZ comes to my mind) that can be damaged by a state-of-the-art full capkit, requiring the replace of the flyback too.
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I am new to this but am willing to go for it. I have a capacitance meter, of the cap is within 10% of its spec does anyone recommend replacing it anyway? Is it better to replace oils caps with new even if they test out ok?
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in general soft focus issues are related to crt,flyback and poor calibration-not capacitors
first thing i would do is reduce contrast and then see if you get good focus
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What grantspain said.
For the record, caps have a 20% tollerance out of the factory, so 10% is in specs
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I tried some flyback adjustments, and it appears the focus problems are more in left corner and left side of the monitor.
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sounds to me like convergence,best post some screen shots
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If I posted a screen shot you guys would probably bash me lol. I'm just being picky, there is nothing wrong, just trying to make a 10 year old monitor perfect. I'm addicted to messing with stuff.
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don't forget this is a CRT. it doesnt have 1080 lines of resolution...it has 480. it's going to look crap compared to a modern TV or LCD. it's also a CRT not a plasma display, it's not going to have eye scorching brightness. that's how you end up with screen burn in. it's not meant to be run super bright and high contrast. you kids and your high resolution displays have sullied your vision.
PLEASE NOTE:
the D9200 is a weirdly designed finiky little bastard of a monitor. when it works, it works great...but if stuff starts going sideways...it piles up in a hurry.
it uses multiple SEPERATE SMPS power systems (3 or 4 if i recall) to drive the various systems. if one system goes down, it starts taking out other stuff until half the components are blown out. none of the systems are interconnected to shut everything down in the event of a failure. trust me i've tried getting a 9200 going after some 1000uF caps blew out and the monitor continued to run...blowing out nearly everything. i must have threw 50 diodes,IC's transistors at this thing and had to abandon it after weeks of trying.
it's old. it needs caps. you don't HAVE to do them all, but basically all the high voltage electrolyitc caps (over 50v 1-220uf) and the low voltage larger caps (16V to 35 or 50v between 47uF and 2200uF) you can basically skip all the small under 47uf caps.
also keep an eye on it, if it start doing weird things shut it down and get some help.
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don't forget this is a CRT. it doesnt have 1080 lines of resolution...it has 480. it's going to look crap compared to a modern TV or LCD. it's also a CRT not a plasma display, it's not going to have eye scorching brightness. that's how you end up with screen burn in. it's not meant to be run super bright and high contrast. you kids and your high resolution displays have sullied your vision.
PLEASE NOTE:
the D9200 is a weirdly designed finiky little bastard of a monitor. when it works, it works great...but if stuff starts going sideways...it piles up in a hurry.
it uses multiple SEPERATE SMPS power systems (3 or 4 if i recall) to drive the various systems. if one system goes down, it starts taking out other stuff until half the components are blown out. none of the systems are interconnected to shut everything down in the event of a failure. trust me i've tried getting a 9200 going after some 1000uF caps blew out and the monitor continued to run...blowing out nearly everything. i must have threw 50 diodes,IC's transistors at this thing and had to abandon it after weeks of trying.
it's old. it needs caps. you don't HAVE to do them all, but basically all the high voltage electrolyitc caps (over 50v 1-220uf) and the low voltage larger caps (16V to 35 or 50v between 47uF and 2200uF) you can basically skip all the small under 47uf caps.
also keep an eye on it, if it start doing weird things shut it down and get some help.
Not to hijack again, But I recently fired up my D9202 and at the standard brightness and contrast it is too dark and barely viewable, when I jack up the brightness and contrast to 255 it looks great . Does this mean I need to replace the tube? or a cap kit ? or is this normal. Thanks
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looks alright.... is this maxed out?
if it is, you may need to turn down the brightness, but turn up the screen control on the flyback. the best way to do this is to adjust the brightness down to about 3/4, kill the video signal and dim down the lights... so you have a plain black screen... then turn the screen control up until you JUST see the screen start to turn gray...then turn it down a hair.
this should get your brightness about where it should be for your tube. don't forget, this isn't a super bright plasma display...it's not supposed to burn your eyes out when you look at it.
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Hi, Yes this is maxed out. I will try to adjust the monitor when I become more brave.
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don't forget this is a CRT. it doesnt have 1080 lines of resolution...it has 480. it's going to look crap compared to a modern TV or LCD. it's also a CRT not a plasma display, it's not going to have eye scorching brightness. that's how you end up with screen burn in. it's not meant to be run super bright and high contrast. you kids and your high resolution displays have sullied your vision.
PLEASE NOTE:
the D9200 is a weirdly designed finiky little bastard of a monitor. when it works, it works great...but if stuff starts going sideways...it piles up in a hurry.
it uses multiple SEPERATE SMPS power systems (3 or 4 if i recall) to drive the various systems. if one system goes down, it starts taking out other stuff until half the components are blown out. none of the systems are interconnected to shut everything down in the event of a failure. trust me i've tried getting a 9200 going after some 1000uF caps blew out and the monitor continued to run...blowing out nearly everything. i must have threw 50 diodes,IC's transistors at this thing and had to abandon it after weeks of trying.
it's old. it needs caps. you don't HAVE to do them all, but basically all the high voltage electrolyitc caps (over 50v 1-220uf) and the low voltage larger caps (16V to 35 or 50v between 47uF and 2200uF) you can basically skip all the small under 47uf caps.
also keep an eye on it, if it start doing weird things shut it down and get some help.
This makes me think. My monitor is a 9200 and it was manufactured in 2004 , Everything works now , although like I stated I have to jack the brightness and contrast. Should I do a Cap kit now? or with until something starts to go weird. I mean I just got this thing so Im not sure what to do . I did buy the Cap Kit from Bob Roberts, and It seems I can't store my settings on the Eprom I think I need a new one of those . What do you think?
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Yes I'm in the same boat, I think I'm just going to do a cap kit anyway, as I plan on keeping this unit for a long time. Although sometimes I regret this type of thinking as I have been known to make things worse "fixing" things that ain't broke.
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have you tried the factory settings yet
in factory settings you get a better range on the contrast and brightness plus you can adjust the gains and cut offs,once locked in you can then use standard menu to fine tune
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I cannot save my settings to chip . It will not save , I am also wondering if I should do a cap kit and I need to figure out how to fix the EPROM and or replace t .