Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Arcade Collecting => Merit/JVL Touchscreen => Topic started by: orizzle on October 11, 2015, 01:35:03 pm
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Just recently acquired a non-working maxx cabinet that I'm trying to get into. No keys. Someone had written CC007 Key on the back of the cabinet. I found the key on easykeys.com but I am told they are backordered. Does anyone have a key or know where I can get one?
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just drill the bugger out. a new lock is like 5 bucks. just head down to a locksmith and pick up a new one.
for example:
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-9943-Diecast-Stainless/dp/B00173CT58/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=064K35J4H4ZMTTHZPWQV&dpID=417-K6kMNnL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_ (http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-9943-Diecast-Stainless/dp/B00173CT58/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=064K35J4H4ZMTTHZPWQV&dpID=417-K6kMNnL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_)
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Quick response...thanks. I actually did find the CC007 key online for $7 shipped so I bought one. Let's hope it fits. The extra $2 would be worth saving me the effort of drilling and replacing the lock.
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ok, so I was messing with the lock and found a key of mine that sort of fit it. I wound up being able to use it as a bump key and got the lock to turn and come out. The fans used to spin when I flipped the switch. I disconnected the power cord from the power supply and plugged it back in, and now I've got a dead megatouch - no fans spin when you power it up, but the screen does come on and the bill acceptor initializes. The power supply looks like there are 2 x 6 pin connectors going to the motherboard. I tried bridging the PWR SWITCH pins to see if anything would happen but it didn't. Any idea how to test the PSU to make sure it's still good?
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your bios battery on the motherboard may have died on you. the default setting of the bios is to have the computer stay off if the AC power has been lost... the megatouch software requires the setting to be ON so when you power up the cabinet, the computer comes on too.
find the front panel header connector on the board and give it a jump on the power button. then you can enter the bios and set the "on AC loss" to "always on" or "on" or however they word it.
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Thanks, I did try bridging those 2 pins but no avail (see my last post)
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well, now it's working - sorta. I've removed the ioboard from the motherboard but left the other wires going to it connected. Through a combination of unplugging the PSU, unplugging the 2 x 6 pin connectors, and flipping the switch, it does boot to the menu. I can't play games or access opsetup because the ioboard is disconnected, but I'm going to assume that works. I cannot get the thing to fire up with the ioboard connected. Thinking the ioboard has gone bad? Or maybe it's the PSU... I am going to try ordering an ATX to AT connector adapter and see what happens with a different psu.
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You could try to locate a very old pc with an AT supply as well. If there is a TELCO motherboard in your cabinet, it's not having a jumper to power on the system. Those older systems simply turned on when the supply was powered, and turned off when the mains voltage is removed from the supply.
The IO boards and the riser card (if you have one) often suffer from bad contacts. You can clean them with a pencil eraser and see if that makes a difference. You can measure the voltages coming out of the supply when it's powered. The red wires are 5V and the yellow ones 12V. There is no 3V3 output on such an AT supply. (There is also a -12V if I remember well) Maybe your io board has a short that makes the supply go into overcurrent protection.