The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: greenmanjph on September 27, 2015, 09:11:26 pm
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I need some help badly. I'm restoring a Star Wars arcade cabinet and bought an original yoke off of ebay (it's actually a "Lock On" yoke, but I was told they're the same basic yoke).
The problem I'm running into is that I want to connect the yoke to the PC running the emulator of the SW game (I'm trying to keep costs down, by the time I finished buying all of the original internal parts, it would've been close to just buying an actual running cabinet), so I need a yoke to USB adapter. I saw one for sale at "thisoldgame.com", but it's $90.00 and I would like to try and find something for a lower price. I would also like to refrain from taking apart the whole yoke and having to put a bunch of different parts in it.
I'm attaching a pic of the yoke 13 pin connector.
If anyone has any ideas and or knows where to find an adapter that's not close to $100, please let me know.
Thanks.
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Check out the KADESTICK thread in my sig.
It has all the details you need including the yoke pinout and links to TwistyWrist for the connector/pins so you can keep the original harness intact instead of maiming for MAME.
Scott
EDIT: The connector is different from the SW connector/pinout -- if it uses potentiometers for the X- and Y-axes, it should have all the same wires, just arranged differently.
See CN-3 in the upper right on pg 11 of the manual here (http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/L/LockOn.pdf).
EDIT2: Manual wiring is worded wierdly. :dizzy: Does that yoke use potentiometers or optical discs?
(http://arcadefixit.com/images/1236312902669-29114802.jpeg) (http://arcadefixit.com/images/image157.jpg)
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Wow, I should've come here first, for the first time I feel like someone can actually help me with this.
From your pics, they look like potentiometers.
I hate to ask a stupid question, but what should I be looking for specifically in the KADESTICK link? Sorry, I'm kind of new to this type of stuff, especially the wiring and circuit boards. I used to play these games all the time when I was younger, but never really looked inside. :dunno
Thanks.
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From your pics, they look like potentiometers.
Yes, your yoke does indeed use potentiometers. ;D
If you can use a multimeter and solder, you can build and program a KADESTICK interface for this controller.
I hate to ask a stupid question, but what should I be looking for specifically in the KADESTICK link? Sorry, I'm kind of new to this type of stuff, especially the wiring and circuit boards. I used to play these games all the time when I was younger, but never really looked inside. :dunno
You came to the right place to learn how to Build Your Own Arcade Controls . . . interface. :lol
The things to look for are:
[Extraneous BS removed]
5. TwistyWrist is your friend -- not sure if there is a cheaper source for the connector that you need for the Lock-On yoke
Twistywrist (http://www.twistywristarcade.com/) has the molex connector and pins required to connect to the yoke harness without hacking it apart -- please don't maim for MAME. ;D
6. You'll need to translate the SW Yoke Pinout to your setup by ohming out which wires are which.
[Extraneous BS removed]
That should cover the main points that you need to know.
I'll take a closer look later at the Lock-On manual and see if I can give you an assist on #6. :cheers:
Scott
EDIT: Large info and image dump removed from items 1-4 and 6, see tutorial (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,147492.msg1536228.html#msg1536228) below for the updated info and images. ;D
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Easy as 3.141592653589793238462643383279502884197169399375105820974944592307816406286208998628034825342117067982148086513282306 64709384460955058223172535940812848111745028410270193852110555964462294895493038196442881097566593344612847564823378678 31652712019091456485669234603486104543266482133936072602491412737245870066063155881748815209209628292540917153643678925 90360011330530548820466521384146951941511609...
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Here's a likely Lock-On Yoke pinout for you to check.
EDIT: Lock-On yoke pinout confirmed and image updated.
Scott
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Wow, that's really good detailed info. Thanks, I might have to try it out. It looks much cheaper than the ready made at $90.
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I came in interested... Walked out after all that^^. This is why I love this site, it gets me to learn things I'd never learn or understand.
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I came in interested... Walked out after all that^^. This is why I love this site, it gets me to learn things I'd never learn or understand.
It looks more complicated than it is.
Anyone who has wired up a control panel already knows how to do the buttons -- they are almost half of the wiring involved in this.
There are 4 buttons, 2 potentiometers, a frame ground, and a pullup resistor.
Each button has an input wire and a button ground wire shared (daisy-chained) with another button.
Each potentiometer has 3 wires -- 5v, wiper, and analog ground.
Total of 13 wires for this yoke.
If you take it one wire at a time, it's easy. ;D
Scott
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I noticed that you have yoke pins 3 and 6 going to the "ground (analog)" on the circuit board, but you only labeled one ground analog pin on the board, where is the other one for the other yoke pin?
Also, where exactly does the resistor go? I can't really see where it was put on the board from the pictures.
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You also mentioned a Molex connector. I'm assuming I won't need that if I'm taking the wires off the old connector and soldering them to the KADESTICK.
If you're anywhere near Jersey, I'll bring it to you and beg you to hook it all that up for me. ;D
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I had a similar situation, as I had a yoke from another machine that was label as a star wars yoke. But, a couple of the pins were in different spots. I seem to recall the #9 pin being on the opposite side. At any rate, I didn't use a kade controller. But, I've used one of the Ultimarc controllers (U-HID?) and the ThisOldGame star Wars controller. I know it's expensive, but the TOG controller is the best option for plug-n-play as well as it's other benefits.
Regardless of what you use, I'd buy a female connector so you don't have to cut the original connector: just makes life easier all the way around.
Cheers!
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I noticed that you have yoke pins 3 and 6 going to the "ground (analog)" on the circuit board, but you only labeled one ground analog pin on the board, where is the other one for the other yoke pin?
The easiest way to connect several wires to one through-hole on the board is to use one wire from the board to one side of a euro-style terminal strip and hook the two wires to the other side.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=140286.0;attach=315447;image)
It also makes it easier to change wiring if you accidently hook something up wrong.
Also, where exactly does the resistor go? I can't really see where it was put on the board from the pictures.
It's under the black heat shrink on the red wire connected to "Vcc" in the lower left of this pic.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297656;image)
Vcc -- resistor -- wire -- E2/B or Vcc -- wire -- resistor -- E2/B (either way works)
You also mentioned a Molex connector. I'm assuming I won't need that if I'm taking the wires off the old connector and soldering them to the KADESTICK.
Please consider not cutting the wires off the original connector.
If you do decide to hack the harness, at least wait until we confirm the pinout on the original.
It will take several days for the AVR board to arrive and by then, we'll have everything sorted out and documented for the next guy. ;D
Scott
EDIT: Found a better picture of the pullup resistor. (Pic by Le Chuck)
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/D25AB194-0170-48D1-B41C-7AC3779DCF4D-19819-000010A01C668B30_zps560308d1.jpg)
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Here are a few pics to help identify the wiring.
Scott
EDIT: Added more build pics.
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Ok, I'm going to grab the board and resistor, but I think I'm going to really need a step by step tutorial to pull this off. I don't want to screw it up.
I'm also confused about not cutting the wires from the connector yet. Won't I have to cut them to connect them to the board, or do I have to grab something else to connect it with?
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I think I'm going to really need a step by step tutorial to pull this off.
Already working on it. (See the wire identification pictures in the earlier post.) ;D
Figured I'd use your thread (and your assistance) to gather and sort the text/links/pics into a decent tutorial then copy it to either the KADESTICK thread or the wiki.
I'm also confused about not cutting the wires from the connector yet. Won't I have to cut them to connect them to the board, or do I have to grab something else to connect it with?
There's no need to cut it apart before you're ready to put it ALL together = finishing these steps first:
* Board received
* Pullup resistor installed
* Board programmed
* Jumper wires connected between the board and the euro-terminal strip
+ Make molex adapter cable (if I can talk you into not hacking the original harness ::) )
BTW, I tend to dedicate more time to assist people with the attitude of, "Even if I don't do it that way, let's document it to help the next guy." ;D over those with the attitude of, "Screw the next guy. Tell me how to make mine work now." :badmood:
There are several good reasons to not hack the original harness:
* Easy to disconnect the yoke for maintenance/rebuild
* Allows you to use the yoke on the original cab without having to re-re-wire it
* Molex connectors and pins are inexpensive
* Future you is going to re-read this thread some day
* Even if you keep it until your dying day, you won't own it forever -- do it for the next owner
It isn't hard to crimp these pins onto wires and make an adapter.
I did this before getting a decent pair of ratchet crimpers :embarassed: -- looks terrible, but works fine.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=122497.0;attach=264232;image)
Pretty sure the connector on your yoke harness is a Molex 15 pos Plug 3x5 .062 (https://www.twistywristarcade.com/062-connectors/1066-connector-15-pos-plug-3x5-062.html) (part number 03-06-2152) with male pins.
The corresponding connector is a Molex 15 pos Receptacle 3x5 .062 (https://www.twistywristarcade.com/062-connectors/1067-connector-15-pos-receptacle-3x5-062.html) (part number 03-06-1152) with female pins (https://www.twistywristarcade.com/062-connectors/1046-pin-062-female-18-24awg-tin-.html). (part number 02-06-1103)
You may want to get two receptacles and 30 pins -- enough pins for practice and a backup housing if you mess it up.
The idea is to hook it up like the attached mockup.
Scott
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I had a yoke to USB adapter from the dreaded vendor that we shall never speak of again, which I finally got working good.
I considered this Old Games adapter, as it's the only other game in town.
It was an easy win to get it hooked up. $90 is worth it in my opinion.
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Seeing that last picture, I have to say it's starting to make more sense to me now.
First of all Scott, I want to say I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out with this build, even though it's probably a hassle having to show someone with little knowledge how to build this from square one.
Second, I'm going to grab the receptacles and pins, but should I grab extra wires too?
Also, what is the part in the middle in the last picture, should I grab that too?
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First of all Scott, I want to say I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out with this build, even though it's probably a hassle having to show someone with little knowledge how to build this from square one.
No problem.
Writing tutorials is a good way to make the hobby more accessible to more users.
Second, I'm going to grab the receptacles and pins, but should I grab extra wires too?
Your best choice for crimping is stranded (not solid) wire.
22 gauge is big enough to easily work with and small enough to fit perfectly in the through-holes of the AVR board -- great size for arcade controls.
Radio Shack has this (http://www.radioshack.com/75-ft-ul-recognized-hookup-wire-22awg/2781224.html) 3-color set.
Amazon has this (http://www.amazon.com/Stranded-Length-0-0253-Diameter-UL1007/dp/B00NB3SYGK) 6-color set.
If that's too many colors, you can try for the Nephasth (Two-Headed Beast (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108719.0.html)) look. ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=186074)
More suggestions for wire suppliers/sources in this thread (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,147050.msg1530387.html#msg1530387).
Scott
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I found some 8' strands of 5 different color 22 gauge wire on eBay for $6.00, figure that should be more than enough.
What about that other piece I mentioned in my last post (the piece circled in the picture)?
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I found some 8' strands of 5 different color 22 gauge wire on eBay for $6.00, figure that should be more than enough.
Good choice as long as the wire is stranded, not solid. ;D
(http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/b/b2/StrandedSolidWire.jpg)
What about that other piece I mentioned in my last post (the piece circled in the picture)?
Oops. Started that reply before your edit.
The circled item is a 12 position euro-style terminal strip. (available from many vendors like Radio Shack, Amazon, Groovy Game Gear, etc.)
Yes, you will need one.
Scott
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How to Build a KADESTICK Yoke Interface
Finished tutorial cross-posted to the KADESTICK thread here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134781.msg1542677.html#msg1542677).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336921;image)
Required skills:
Soldering - tutorial here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129317.0.html).
Crimping molex pins - covered in step #7
Using a multimeter - covered in step #10
Tools:
Multimeter
Wire strippers
Pin crimp tool (HT-336-FM (http://www.pimfg.com/Product-Detail/HT-336-FM) with an HT-236-2U (http://www.pimfg.com/Product-Detail/HT-236-2U-DIE) crimp die for 0.084" pins)
Pin removal tool (Optional -- This one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094MIS9U?) is for 0.062" and 0.093" but it also works with 0.084")
Soldering iron
- Solder
- Flux
- Isopropyl alcohol (to clean after soldering)
- Q-tips and/or acid brush (to clean after soldering)
Needlenose pliers, foreceps, or wire-bending tool
3/32" security bit (to remove yoke cover) -- This set (http://www.harborfreight.com/33-pc-security-bit-set-68459.html) with 33 bits and this set (http://www.harborfreight.com/100-pc-security-bit-set-with-case-68457.html) with 100 bits both have the correct one
7/64" hex bit (to remove outer grips)
3/32" jeweler's screwdriver (to turn the terminal setscrews)
Materials:
1 ea. - MattairTech MT-DB-U4 (http://www.mattairtech.com/index.php/development-boards/atmega32u4-usb-development-board-arduino-compatible.html) board -- select the 16 MHz crystal, ATMEL DFU (FLIP) bootloader, and "Headers Not Included" options.
1 ea. - USB 2.0 A Male to Mini-B 5 Pin Male cable (Similar to this one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KLCWH6?))
1 ea. - 10k Ohm resistor (1/8 watt or 1/4 watt)
1 ea. - 12 position euro-style terminal strip (only 10 terminal positions needed)
15-20 ft. - 22AWG (or similar) Wire -- stranded, not solid
Heat shrink
Mounting feet for board (if desired)
Loop clamps (Adel clamps)
Molex connector and pins that fit with the connector and pins on the yoke harness
- Star Wars yoke = Molex CONNECTOR PLUG 12POS .084 (https://www.twistywristarcade.com/084-mlx-series/332-connector-plug-12pos-084.html) (part number 50-84-1120) with female pins (https://www.twistywristarcade.com/084-mlx-series/327-084-pin-female-.html). (part number 02-08-1004)
- Lock-On yoke = Molex 15 pos Receptacle 3x5 .062 (https://www.twistywristarcade.com/062-connectors/1067-connector-15-pos-receptacle-3x5-062.html) (part number 03-06-1152) with female pins (https://www.twistywristarcade.com/062-connectors/1046-pin-062-female-18-24awg-tin-.html). (part number 02-06-1103)
Downloads:
The firmware for the board - 2-Axis HEX File (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297454) -- Special thanks to Degenatrons for giving me permission to release a working copy of the hex file for anyone who wants to build an analog stick/yoke interface. :notworthy: :notworthy:
FLIP 3.4.7 (or higher) to load the firmware onto the board - http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx (http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx)
Procedure:
1. Cut/strip/lightly tin a 2.5" - 3" wire and and bend one end into a U-shaped loop. Cut one lead of the 10k ohm "pullup" resistor to ~1/4" and bend it into a U-shaped loop.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336737;image)
2. Solder the wire loop to the resistor loop (shown below with the end of a wire-bending tool) and insulate the connection with heat-shrink.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336739;image)
3. Solder the resistor and wire between the Vcc and E2/B holes on the board.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336741;image)
4. Use FLIP to load the firmware on the board using the procedures here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134781.msg1421490.html#msg1421490).
5. Solder 4" wires to the following 10 board holes:
* Gnd (lower right) - Ground (Buttons)
* B0 - Button 1 (left trigger)
* B1 - Button 2 (right trigger)
* B2 - Button 3 (left thumb button)
* B3 - Button 4 (right thumb button)
* Agnd - Ground (Analog)
* F1 - X-axis Wiper
* F0 - Y-axis Wiper
* Avcc - 5v for Analog
* Gnd (lower left) - Frame ground
You may want to use color coded wires.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336878;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336803;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336801;image)
6. Connect the 10 board wires to the terminal strip. (strip shown was cut to 10 positions)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336919;image)
7. Make a Molex adapter cable.
- You may want to use color coded wires that match with your yoke harness.
- Crimp pins onto enough 12"(?) lengths of wire to connect each pin from the yoke harness to the terminal strip.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336275;image)
-- The "14" slot on the HT-236-2U die works well for 0.084" pins
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336809;image)
-- Pic below shows a molex pin properly positioned in the jaws of a ratchet crimper with the wire end of the pin toward the slightly wider side of the crimp die, the "ears" on the pin pointing into the U-shaped side of the crimp die and the already-round part of the pin clear of the crimp die by just over a thumbnail-thickness.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336807;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336277;image)
- Insert the crimped pins into the molex housing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336805;image)
8. Attach the Molex adapter cable to the yoke harness.
9. Carefully remove the outer grips (don't lose the springs on the thumb buttons or triggers) and the cover from the yoke so you can check the wiring.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336743;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336745;image)
10. Verify the wiring using your multimeter set to either continuity or ohms mode.
- Clip one lead of your multimeter to a wire in the yoke and touch the other lead to one wire after another in the molex adapter cable until you hear a beep (continuity mode) or read less than 2 ohms. (ohms mode)
- Connect that wire to the associated terminal on the strip -- some terminals may have more than one molex wire connected
- Repeat until all molex wires are identified and connected to the correct terminal.
Pic shows continuity from Y-axis potentiometer wiper (red lead) to the corresponding wire on pin 5 of the molex adapter cable. (black lead)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336917;image)
Star Wars harness pinout
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=134006.0;attach=295045;image)
Lock-On harness pinout
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336943;image)
Terminals
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=336803;image)
11. Mount the board and terminal strip. Add Loop clamps as needed for strain relief.
12. Test/calibrate the yoke and interface using Windows gamepad properties.
NOTE: Do not use a game to do this, since the game/emulator software adds more variables.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=147492.0;attach=338864;image)
Troubleshooting
Axis reversed (i.e. crosshairs moving left when the yoke is turned to the right)
Reverse the axis by swapping the 5v and ground wires on tabs 1 and 3 of the pot.
Jitter (i.e. shaky crosshairs)
Jitter can be caused by the pots and/or the wires. (probably the pots)
To eliminate the wires, use a jumper wire with insulated alligator clips or a screwdriver to short the center tab (wiper) of the pot to either the tab with 5v or ground.
If the wires/connections are good, the crosshairs should go all the way to the edge of the box and stay there without jitter.
- Jitter when shorting to 5v, but not when shorting to ground = bad 5v wire/connection
- Jitter when shorting to ground, but not when shorting to 5v = bad ground wire/connection
- Jitter when shorting wiper to 5v and when shorting wiper to ground = bad wiper wire/connection
If the wires/connections all check good,that just leaves the pots.
Scott
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Ok, I finally received my final shipment of parts today (I didn't realize that circuit board was so small). I'm going to try that great tutorial to put it together some time this week or weekend.
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Ok, I finally received my final shipment of parts today (I didn't realize that circuit board was so small). I'm going to try that great tutorial to put it together some time this week or weekend.
I picked up another AVR board and will be making a dedicated Star Wars yoke interface and taking pictures as I go. ;D
LMK if there are any pictures you'd like to see in addition to the ones mentioned in the tutorial, or if it looks like there are any steps/details that I've left out.
Before you dig into the build, can you try out step #10 in the tutorial to confirm and document the pinout on your Lock-On yoke. (and maybe even the wire colors)
Lock-On yoke pinout confirmed. ;D
Scott
P.S. just noticed that you bought pin headers with your board -- you won't need them for this build.
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I don't mind waiting to put it together until you have yours done, I'd rather do it right the first time. I wasn't sure about the pins, so for the extra buck I figured I'd take the chance.
I'll check the wiring asap.
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Steps 1-4 are ready. ;D
They cover installing the pullup resistor and programming the board.
Scott
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The KADESTICK Yoke Interface build tutorial is ready for review here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,147492.msg1536228.html#msg1536228). ;D
Awaiting confirmation on the Lock-On yoke harness pinout.
Scott
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Sorry for the delay. As I was checking the continuity of the wires, I discovered that some of them were cut. Some looked like they were squished and cut as a result, and some looked like they were cut on purpose (have no idea why). I had to reattach and solder new wires before I could continue checking the continuity.
The pics attached below have the picture of the pinout given earlier, and a table showing the wire color, corresponding pin, position and location within the yoke.
Hope it makes sense.
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The pics attached below have the picture of the pinout given earlier, and a table showing the wire color, corresponding pin, position and location within the yoke.
Hope it makes sense.
Thanks! Your notes confirm everything precisely. :cheers:
Updated the "Lock-On Yoke Pinout" image and added it to the tutorial.
There will be three terminals that get two wires from your molex adapter:
- Gnd (Buttons) - Pins 9 and 12
- Gnd (Analog) - Pins 3 and 6
- 5v for Analog - Pins 1 and 4
For the rest, just match up the wording on the pin and terminal. ;D
LMK if you have any questions or suggestions on improving the tutorial.
Scott
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I'm almost halfway there, I forgot about the crimping tool, had to order one. Waiting for it to arrive to continue building.
Couple of questions in the meantime:
Can you post a tutorial on how to load the firmware to the board?
Can you also turn me on to a good FREE unzipping program for the HEX file?
Also, the Atmel link only brings you to the home page.
(I know the wires aren't color-coded, but getting a bunch of spools of different color wires started get a little expensive)
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Can you post a tutorial on how to load the firmware to the board?
Already done. ::)
Step #4 of the tutorial above has the link -- click on the hyperlinked word "here". :banghead:
Can you also turn me on to a good FREE unzipping program for the HEX file?
7-Zip, WinZip, WinRAR . . . lots of choices here (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=free+zip+program).
Also, the Atmel link only brings you to the home page.
They changed the download page URL -- updated the KADESTICK thread and tutorial linked in step #4 above. :cheers:
http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx (http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx)
Scott
P.S. Looks good so far other than the Avcc wire being on the Aref pin.
How well did the solder joints turn out?
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Cool, thanks for the links, I'll try to upload the firmware this week.
The Avcc wire is in the next to last hole from the bottom in the terminal (that's where it looked like it went in the other pictures) the way I took the picture and because all the wires are the same color may make it look like it's in a different spot.
I had a problem soldering at first (it's been at least 20 years since I've done any soldering work on circuit boards and I'm a bit rusty), and I figured out what the problem was. I messed up the first most important thing to do with my soldering iron, tinning the tip :banghead:. Once I did that, everything went together no problem.
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The Avcc wire is in the next to last hole from the bottom in the terminal (that's where it looked like it went in the other pictures) the way I took the picture and because all the wires are the same color may make it look like it's in a different spot.
Actually, it looks like it's soldered in the wrong hole (Aref = blue arrow) on the board.
It should be in Avcc. (green arrow)
Scott
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I double checked it this morning (started to get a little worried). Luckily it was just the camera angle, the wire looks like it's in the right spot.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3FnpaWQJO0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3FnpaWQJO0)
Scott
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Ok, I'm having trouble with the firmware upload.
First, I downloaded 7 Zip and then clicked the link for the HEX file, but I can't do anything with it (I've never had any luck with .ZIP files).
Second, when trying to hook up the board to FLIP I keep getting the following error message (in picture below). I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
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First, I downloaded 7 Zip and then clicked the link for the HEX file, but I can't do anything with it (I've never had any luck with .ZIP files).
Click on the "2-Axis HEX File (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297454)" link.
Choose the "Save File" option to download the "KADESTICK Hex.zip" file to a folder on your hard drive.
Use Windows Explorer to open that folder.
Open the "KADESTICK Hex.zip" file using 7-zip. (either double-click or right-click--7-Zip--Open archive)
Drag and drop the "KADESTICK.hex" file from the 7-Zip window to the Windows Explorer window.
The .hex file is ready for Flip to use.
Second, when trying to hook up the board to FLIP I keep getting the following error message (in picture below). I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
I've sent an e-mail to Justin Mattair to let him know that the board driver links on his website and in the manual are broken.
Also asked him whether the error you are getting is a driver problem or something else. :dunno
Hope to hear back from him soon. ;D
Scott
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Ok, finally got my crimping tool today, attached the pins and hooked the wires up to the other side of the terminal. From the tutorial, it seems like there are a couple of holes in the terminal that two wires go into, and I just wanted to make sure that was correct. I attached pictures of the connections (again, sorry about the same color wire).
Let me know when you hear back about the firmware error.
Thanks.
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From the tutorial, it seems like there are a couple of holes in the terminal that two wires go into, and I just wanted to make sure that was correct. I attached pictures of the connections (again, sorry about the same color wire).
By "couple of holes" I assume you are referring to the fact that I cut the two unneeded terminals off the end of the strip.
The tutorial shows 10 wires from the AVR board going to 10 terminals that connect to the 10 wires in the Star Wars molex adapter.
There will be three terminals that get two wires from your molex adapter:
- Gnd (Buttons) - Pins 9 and 12
- Gnd (Analog) - Pins 3 and 6
- 5v for Analog - Pins 1 and 4
You've got two wires from the molex adapter going to each of these three terminals.
It sure looks like you're doing it right. ;D
No word from Justin yet. :dunno
Does Windows even try to load drivers when you connect the board to a USB port? (Do this before you try to run Flip.)
Scott
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I seems to try and load the drivers, but I don't think it's able to.
I'm also confused about this part in the firmware procedures (part 4)
"Once FLIP is installed, the DFU bootloader drivers can be loaded.
Install the HWB jumper (or disconnect the pullup resistor) and power up the board (or press reset) to enter the DFU bootloader.
Windows will then prompt you for the ATmega32U4 driver -- point it to the Program Files/Atmel/Flip 3.4.2/usb directory and install.
If the Atmel drivers do not work, you may need to install the signed drivers from http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?module=Freaks%20Academy&func=viewItem&item_type=project&item_id=2196. (http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?module=Freaks%20Academy&func=viewItem&item_type=project&item_id=2196.)
Once the driver is loaded, the device will appear as an ATmega32U4 device under Atmel USB Devices in the device manager."
I already installed the pull up resistor in step 3, but the firmware instructions say to disconnect it. Pressing the button on the board doesn't do anything either.
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I seems to try and load the drivers, but I don't think it's able to.
Hopefully the procedures below will take care of that. ;D
I'm also confused about this part in the firmware procedures (part 4)
I copied it verbatim from the manual, but here's a better breakdown.
Once FLIP is installed, the DFU bootloader drivers can be loaded.
The bootloader should already be loaded on your board -- assuming you selected "ATMEL DFU (FLIP)" when you ordered your board.
To enter the DFU bootloader, you just need to
- install the jumper
- plug in the board
- point Flip at the bootloader driver
Install the HWB jumper (or disconnect the pullup resistor) and power up the board (or press reset) to enter the DFU bootloader.
Since you installed the pullup resistor fom Vcc to E2/B, you just need to install the jumper so that it bridges the two pins. (ignore the disconnected pullup resistor in the pic -- installing the jumper does the same thing as disconnecting the resistor)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297656;image)
Schematic on pg 25 of the manual shows that the jumper (HWB jumper, lower left) connects the E2/B input to a 249 Ohm resistor connected to ground.
Vcc-->10,000 Ohm pullup resistor-->E2/B-->249 Ohm resistor-->ground
(E2/B is much closer to ground than Vcc)
When the input is pulled close to ground, it enters the DFU bootloader.
If you installed the jumper before the board was plugged in, it will enter the DFU bootloader when you plug it in.
If you installed the jumper after the board was plugged in, press the reset button to enter the DFU bootloader.
Windows will then prompt you for the ATmega32U4 driver -- point it to the Program Files/Atmel/Flip 3.4.2/usb directory and install.
Change 2 to 7 since you downloaded ver. 3.4.7 -- that's where the bootloader driver should be.
I think the correct driver filename is "atmel_usb_dfu.inf".
If the Atmel drivers do not work, you may need to install the signed drivers from http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?module=Freaks%20Academy&func=viewItem&item_type=project&item_id=2196. (http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?module=Freaks%20Academy&func=viewItem&item_type=project&item_id=2196.)
This is the broken link that I reported to Justin.
Still no word back on this. :dunno
Once the driver is loaded, the device will appear as an ATmega32U4 device under Atmel USB Devices in the device manager.
Hopefully, the generic Atmel driver "atmel_usb_dfu.inf" will work for you.
If not, you need to find the signed driver.
Scott
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Ok, sorry for the delayed reply, got busy with work.
I think I'm missing something when trying the download the firmware. This may sound like another stupid question, but is the "jumper" the wire I installed from the resistor Vcc to E2/B and if not, what is it and how is it installed?
That may be what's holding me up on this.
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what is the "jumper" and how is it installed?
The jumper is the black plastic and metal piece.
"Installed" means that it is connecting both pins.
When not needed, you can let it hang off just one pin.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=134781.0;attach=337807;image)
Scott
EDIT: Made a better image.
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I'm still at square one and still can't load the drivers on the board :banghead:.
I looked at the MT-DB-U4 User Guide and read the following:
Once FLIP is installed, the DFU bootloader drivers can be loaded. Install the HWB jumper and
powerup the board (or press reset). This will enter the DFU bootloader. The LED should be pulsing.
Windows will then prompt you for the ATmega32U4 driver. By default, this is located in the Program
Files/Atmel/Flip 3.4.2/usb directory. Point the installer to that directory and install.
If I leave the jumper off (which I mistakenly did before) and plug it in to the USB port, the LED stays lit. If I press the little button on the board, it goes off and then back on and stays lit.
If I put the jumper on, like the tutorial says to, the LED never lights up, even after pressing the button. I've never seen the LED "pulse".
Also, the AVR Freaks link (http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?module=Freaks%20Academy&func=viewItem&item_type=project&item_id=2196 (http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?module=Freaks%20Academy&func=viewItem&item_type=project&item_id=2196)) doesn't have any forums or links to the drivers I need, I searched multiple pages in the forum.
I feel like I'm so close, yet so far in finishing this cabinet :cry:.
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Once FLIP is installed, the DFU bootloader drivers can be loaded. Install the HWB jumper and
powerup the board (or press reset). This will enter the DFU bootloader. The LED should be pulsing.
The LEDs on mine never flash, but they program/work just fine. :dunno
The green LED only lights when it is operating as a KADESTICK.
Also, the AVR Freaks link (http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?module=Freaks%20Academy&func=viewItem&item_type=project&item_id=2196 (http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?module=Freaks%20Academy&func=viewItem&item_type=project&item_id=2196)) doesn't have any forums or links to the drivers I need, I searched multiple pages in the forum.
That's the "broken link" I mentioned earlier.
So far, no reply to the e-mail sent to Justin on October 14th. :banghead:
Installed "FLIP 3.4.7 for Windows (Java Runtime Environement included)" on an older XP system and got the same message that you got about "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found" when trying to open a USB connection.
The odd thing is that the file is in the "Atmel\Flip 3.4.7\bin\" folder. :dizzy:
I suggest that you register over at the AVR Freaks site and post about this issue there.
AFAIK, the admin there is Justin Mattair -- same guy we bought the boards from.
Scott
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Got it! (Sometimes I'm a total moron. :banghead: )
Flip has to be installed before you plug in the 32u4 board and Windows asks for the driver.
If you get a "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found message" error message from Flip when you click on the cable icon to open a USB connection to the board, the problem is a a wrong/missing board driver.
- Close Flip.
- Disconnect/reconnect/reset board as needed to get Windows to reload the driver. (not exactly sure how i got it to reload :dunno )
- Point the driver install wizard to the "..\Atmel\Flip 3.4.7\usb" folder.
- Once the driver is installed, you can re-open Flip and follow the rest of the firmware load procedures.
Scott
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Oh my goodness, I think I actually got everything to work (drivers and hex file). I attached a screen shot of the FLIP software for you to confirm.
My next question is, once it's all programmed, as I'm assuming it is now, what do I do next? How is it hooked up to the emulator?
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Oh my goodness, I think I actually got everything to work (drivers and hex file). I attached a screen shot of the FLIP software for you to confirm.
"Verify PASS" = it worked. :woot
Added a step and image so people know how to confirm that it works.
My next question is, once it's all programmed, as I'm assuming it is now, what do I do next?
Do step #9. ;D
Unplug the board from USB, move the jumper to the "Not Installed" position, re-connect the board to USB, and it is ready to use as a USB HID Joystick. (Shows up as a gamepad in windows)
How is it hooked up to the emulator?
It connects via USB.
The emulator will see it as a USB HID Joystick.
You may need to remap inputs in the emulator.
Scott
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Ok, finally found a computer that would take MAME and the game, but now I'm hitting another speed bump.
As I play it, the cross hairs are jittery and when I pull up on the yoke, nothing happens. Sometimes there's also a delay with the other controls while it's jittery. A couple of times when I went to the game menu to configure the controls it would start going crazy and the highlighted bar would just keep going up and not stop (even when the yoke is not plugged in). I have video, but couldn't attach it. I thought maybe it was the laptop. It's my wife's older one and I thought maybe it couldn't run it right. Also, when I plugged the female to the male pins box, it actually pushed one of the wires out. I pushed it back in and on the pin and it seemed to start working better, but then it went right back to not working.
I don't know if this would affect it or not, but I'm not sure what the green ground wire attaches to. I'm assuming it attaches to the yoke case for grounding purposes, but I'm not exactly sure where.
I hope it's not a hardware problem with the yoke, like the pots or something.
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the cross hairs are jittery and when I pull up on the yoke, nothing happens.
Take the game/emulator/other software out of the equation by shutting them down and checking the gamepad properties.
If the crosshairs are jittery, you have either intermittent wiring or bad pots.
A couple of times when I went to the game menu to configure the controls it would start going crazy and the highlighted bar would just keep going up and not stop (even when the yoke is not plugged in).
If by "yoke is not plugged in" you mean the USB cable isn't connected, the yoke/interface isn't the cause.
If you mean that the molex connectors aren't connected, but the USB is connected, that might cause scrolling like what I saw while testing the 4-axis firmware.
Tried using just the SW yoke with the 4-axis firmware and noticed an obvious (in retrospect) but highly problematic side effect with the unused "Z-" and "Z Ro-" axes -- no wiper wire connected to the input = no voltage applied = they aren't centered.
The un-centered Z-axis (a.k.a. mouse scroll wheel) causes the MAMEUIFX menu (and probably many others) to constantly scroll. :angry: :dizzy: :lol
Also, with the yoke molex unplugged, the wires connected to the X- and Y-axis wiper inputs could be acting like antennas -- electromagnetic waves passing through the wires induce small voltages which appear as jitter.
The scrolling could also be caused by the potentiometer not being properly centered.
When the controller is centered, you should see approximately 2.5 Volts DC on the X- and Y-axis wiper inputs. (check at the terminal strip)
If you don't see the expected 2.5 Volts:
- Remove the small gear of the off-center axis (28-tooth for X-axis, 14-tooth for Y-axis)
- Turn the pot shaft to the middle of it's range of motion
- Verify that you have 2.5 Volts on the wiper input
- Re-install the small gear -- setscrew aligned with the flat of the pot shaft
when I plugged the female to the male pins box, it actually pushed one of the wires out. I pushed it back in and on the pin and it seemed to start working better, but then it went right back to not working.
You may want to use step 10 in the yoke tutorial to check whether the wiring is intermittent.
I don't know if this would affect it or not, but I'm not sure what the green ground wire attaches to. I'm assuming it attaches to the yoke case for grounding purposes, but I'm not exactly sure where.
It is frame ground.
It connects to the metal frame of the yoke so you don't get fried if a 5v wire shorts to the frame.
I hope it's not a hardware problem with the yoke, like the pots or something.
Bad news: There is a chance that the pots are bad.
Good news: They are easy to replace.
ArcadeFixit has replacements -- search for "5k pot" and select the "Heavy Duty" one.
(http://arcadefixit.com/images/1236312902669-29114802.jpeg)
There are other options out there, but the ArcadeFixit ones are guaranteed to be the right type/size/fit.
Scott
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I had a feeling it was those darn pots.
A couple of things I forgot to mention (I was up pretty late trying to figure it out and started getting punchy).
About the menu highlighter, it would start going crazy when I used the yoke to move it (pushing it up and down), but again, it would sometimes still do it when I unplugged the yoke board USB. I did unplug it when it already started going crazy though, so maybe it was stuck in a glitch from using the yoke and couldn't stop. :dunno
When trying to configure the controller, when I clicked to change the "up" control and pushed up on the yoke, nothing would happen, but when I pushed down, it would say "joystick up", so maybe something's crossed, or it could just be wishful thinking and I'll have to dole out the $40 for new pots. I also forgot to mention that the triggers work perfectly.
More on how it looks during the game; when I pulled down, the crosshairs would pull to the left and down, and of course they wouldn't go back up when I pushed up. However, if I released the yoke the crosshairs would go back to the middle.
Let me know what you think before I purchase new pots.
Thanks.
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Another question, how do I check for the 2.5 V at the terminal strip? What two areas do I put the leads on, is it one on the pot and the other on the terminal strip?
Also I'm assuming the board USB should be plugged into the computer to check for voltage.
Oh yeah, what's with the sound (music, sound effects) echoing?
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Before you buy replacement pots, start by checking the wiring, verfying the pot centering, and checking the gamepad properties crosshairs.
If the wiring ohms out good but you still have jitter problems, you can swap in a cheap linear 5k pot like this (https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-5k-ohm-linear-taper-potentiometers?variant=5717291205) one from Radio Shack to confirm if the pots are the problem.
Another question, how do I check for the 2.5 V at the terminal strip? What two areas do I put the leads on, is it one on the pot and the other on the terminal strip?
You can measure at either the pot or the terminal strip.
Easest way is to probe at the terminal setscrew since the leads are less likely to slip off or short out the pot tabs.
- Set your multimeter to Volts DC.
- Red lead on the X- or Y-axis Wiper terminal strip.
- Black lead on the Gnd (Analog) terminal strip.
Also I'm assuming the board USB should be plugged into the computer to check for voltage.
Yes, you have to have power applied to check voltages. ::)
Oh yeah, what's with the sound (music, sound effects) echoing?
:dunno That has nothing to do with the yoke and interface. :dizzy:
Scott
P.S. Forgot to mention another option for replacement pots -- Mouser carries RV4NAYSD502A (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ETI-Systems/RV4NAYSD502A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvNM%2fd3q5fCV4SRMCC3dyse) long-life pots.
They are *almost* the same, except for no flat on the shaft.
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Ok, checked the voltage at the terminal red on each wiper screw and black on the gnd analog screw). For the Y-axis wiper I got ~2.5 V and on the X-axis wiper I got ~1.7 V (Seemed a little surprising, I thought the Y-axis one would've been the one that was lower, because I'm assuming that's the one that does the up and down motion on the yoke).
I also tried measuring from the each pot joint (probably didn't do it right, but I'll post it here anyway). On the Y-axis, when I put the red lead on the red wire and the black lead on the gnd analog terminal screw I got ~5 V, on the white wire I got ~2.3 V and on the black wire I got 0. I got the same on the X-axis except the white wire was ~1.5 V.
I removed the gear on the X-axis and turned the shaft until it read 2.5 V and replaced the gear like you said.
I tried playing it again and the going up will make the crosshairs jump up about an inch but then go right back to the middle, it won't stay up at all just jumps up and goes back every time. When I turn to the right, it'll go, then jump back an inch or so and then go right and stay there. So I'm still getting some jumping around of the crosshairs, but not as much, and I didn't really see any jittering. However, going up is still not working. :hissy:
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I removed the gear on the X-axis and turned the shaft until it read 2.5 V and replaced the gear
Sounds good. ;D
1.7v = 68% of 2.5v ==> about 1/3rd of the way from center (2.5v) to the lowest possible reading in that direction. (0v) :o
I tried playing it again
Ahem. . . . DO NOT USE A GAME TO TEST IF THE INTERFACE IS WORKING PROPERLY.
MAME settings (including the defaults) can cause symptoms like what you describe if not properly configured.
I wasn't B.S.ing you when I told you to use Windows gamepad properties to test (and calibrate, if needed) your yoke and interface. :banghead:
First get things working smoothly in gamepad properties, then we'll reconfigure your MAME settings for analog controls as described here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Joysticks#MAME_Settings_for_Analog_Joysticks). ;D
Scott
P.S. Duplicated the scrolling menu selection that you described by unplugging the interface's USB cable while MAME was running. Scrolling stopped as soon as it was plugged back in.
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Ok, used Windows gamepad properties. On the test screen, the crosshairs are jittery in the box and when I move the yoke is does the same thing as I described before in the game. I did notice that when I pull up, the crosshairs move down and vice versa. The wires are correct in the terminal though.
After trying to calibrate multiple times, it still does the same thing.
Am I looking at bad pots, even though they have the proper voltage?
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when I pull up, the crosshairs move down and vice versa. The wires are correct in the terminal though.
You can reverse the axis by swapping the 5v and ground wires on tabs 1 and 3 of the pot.
After trying to calibrate multiple times, it still does the same thing.
Am I looking at bad pots, even though they have the proper voltage?
With an 8-bit (0-255) A/D (analog to digital) converter, each step is less than 20 mV. (5v/256 steps)
The problem could be the pots and/or the wires. (probably the pots)
To eliminate the wires, use a jumper wire with insulated alligator clips or a screwdriver to short the center tab (wiper) of the pot to either the tab with 5v or ground.
If the wires/connections are good, the crosshairs should go all the way to the edge of the box and stay there without jitter.
- Jitter when shorting to 5v, but not when shorting to ground = bad 5v wire/connection
- Jitter when shorting to ground, but not when shorting to 5v = bad ground wire/connection
- Jitter when shorting wiper to 5v and when shorting wiper to ground = bad wiper wire/connection
If the wires/connections all check good,that just leaves the pots.
Scott
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Well, from your instructions, it looks like bad pots. I shorted the middle tab to each side tab and the crosshairs go right to the top/bottom or left/right sides of the box with no jittering.
I found these 5K pots on amazon, would these be ok? They're way cheaper than arcadefixit and I could actually get them tomorrow with Prime shipping. Someone in the reviews actually said they come with a flat side of the shaft too.
http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Electronics-5K-Ohm-Potentiometer/dp/B00CTWDHIO (http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Electronics-5K-Ohm-Potentiometer/dp/B00CTWDHIO)
Let me know what you think.
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The pots in a yoke take a lot of rough use compared to most potentiometer applications so it's a good idea to get long-life pots from a reputable manufacturer.
The pots you linked to aren't long-life and I have no idea what the quality is, but they will probably not last long.
Three choices from the posts above: (Allied Electronics doesn't have the kind I like in stock :( )
1. ArcadeFixit - Highest price, long-life, high quality, no shaft mod needed
2. Mouser - Much lower price, long-life, high quality, shaft mod optional (length is good, might want to add a flat)
3. Radio Shack - Lowest price, not long-life, medium quality, shaft mod probably required (Y-axis pot shaft probably needs cut to length, might want to add a flat)
IMHO the Mouser pots will give you the best bang for your buck.
If you want to order from Amazon, go with these (http://www.amazon.com/Resistor-Pot-Ohm-Watt-6-35mm/dp/B00B88DPC8/) -- slightly more expensive than Allied or Mouser, but same quality + part number RV4NAYSD502A. ;D
Scott
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You mentioned an optional shaft mod and adding a flat to the shaft from Mouser. Is there a way to do that? I used the link from your earlier post and looked all around the site and can't find a way to change it from a slotted shaft and any searches about shaft mods or flats turns up nothing.
I'm also wondering if I should give the original Amazon ones a try. I know they're cheaper and may not last as long, but I don't think I would be playing it every single day, since work gets in the way. Then again, maybe I'm just being impatient.
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You mentioned an optional shaft mod and adding a flat to the shaft from Mouser. Is there a way to do that?
Dremel tool with cutoff wheel is the preferred method. ;D
Takes longer to set up the dremel than it does to cut the flat. (just modded the one below)
. . . or you can use a bench grinder if you have the necessary finesse. :lol
Scott
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Ok, sorry for the delay. I had to wait and then replace the pots. Now, after installing the pc and monitor, I'm finding a problem with the display. When I load up the SW or ESB games, the screen only shows a little bit of everything and leaves out a lot, especially the ships flying around, the lasers and background. The only game that seems to show everything is the ROTJ game (pics of the screen in different parts and games are attached).
They seemed to work fine on my monitor and regular desktop running windows 7, the only other computer I could find to use for the cabinet is running Windows XP with nothing on it but mame. The monitor is hooked up with a VGA to DVI adapter because the PC only has a DVI port and the monitor olnly has a VGA port (but I assuming if it was that, everything being displayed would look weird).
Let me know what you think.
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Looks like the video settings need to be tweaked. (the MAME vector defaults aren't very good)
- Launch Star Wars.
- Press Tab to bring up the menus.
- Go to the "Slider Controls" menus.
- Adjust Brightness (~1.080?), Contrast (~1.500?), and Gamma (~1.300?) to suit your monitor and preference.
Scott
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I fixed the video settings like you said, but I'm still experiencing the same problem. Another weird thing I noticed is when I pull up the menu after pressing tab, the background comes back (although some of the letters on the screen get a little glitchy), but when I highlight "return to previous menu" on the menu the background disappears again. I ran the game on my regular monitor and everything shows up fine. I attached pics of the screen with and without the menu. The last pic is game play on the monitor attached to my other computer.
I also notice that when the screen changes during the demo, a bunch of vector lines zigzag around the screen for about a second and at the first menu before going to the actual game I notice very subtle "blanks" going through the menu. Almost as if there's an invisible line going from the top to the bottom of the screen (that's the best way I can describe it).
EDIT 4:21 pm: I attached another pic of the screen shots and explanations that will hopefully explain it better.
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Not sure what is causing that issue. :dunno
Is the game running at 100% all the time? (Press "F11" to check)
Are there any other programs running in the background?
What "flavor" (Official MAME, MAMEUIFX, GroovyMAME, etc.) and version (0.167) of MAME are you running?
Scott
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Here are some screen shots of the MAME version and what the screen is has been doing recently (by the way, those aren't scratches on the screen).
EDIT: 8:01 pm, The last attached pic is when a different monitor is hooked up to the system. I thought maybe the VGA/DVI adapter or the monitor was bad, so I hooked up a different monitor directly to the PC with a DVI cable and got the same problem. I'm starting to think it's something with the PC.
EDIT: 8:32 pm, All the crazy lines only come up when F11 is pressed and shows the 100% in the top corner, and like yesterday, the TAB menu will show the background, but I was semi-wrong, it only comes up when "Dip Switches" is highlighted on the TAB menu.
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Those are some wierd vector artifacts. :dizzy:
Looks like the timing is off on the electron beam blanking emulation or the brightness is set way too high -- In a vector CRT, the beam turns on to draw a line like an etch-a-sketch, turns off (blanking) to move to the start of the next line, turns on to draw the next line, . . . .
When you get that on an LCD, it's more than likely an emulation software/emulation drivers/video card/video memory/video drivers issue not a monitor issue.
The fact that the "crazy lines only come up when F11 is pressed and shows the 100% in the top corner" tells me that your video card/memory/driver are probably being overwhelmed with that extra bit of work every frame.
1. Does it look/work normally during gameplay? If so, can you live with the menu glitches? >:D
2. Do you have the same problems in The Empire Strikes Back? (ROMname = esb, uses the same "starwars.c" driver)
3. Are you running a re-compiled "no-nag" version of MAME (the "annoying" info boxes/error messages might be your friend ;D) or did you get it straight from the official source here (http://mamedev.org/oldrel.html).
4. Have you tried a different version of MAME? (0.157-0.166 since ROM rename in 0.157 was last SW change AFAIK)
5. Have you tried a different "flavor" of MAME? (i.e. current version (http://mame32fx.altervista.org/download.htm) of MAMEUIFX or older versions linked here (http://mame32fx.altervista.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=205&sid=16e11a223079e9f58369ae54f42d309d))
If 3-5 don't help, you might need to upgrade -- not sure what hardware/OS you're running. :dunno
Scott
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SUCCESS!! ;D
After a bunch of going back and forth, my friend finally brought me another, newer laptop he had. We tested everything right away and lo and behold everything worked!!
I had to tweak the pots, because they were responding differently during the game than on the game controller menu on Windows, which of course was a little tedious, but it worked out in the long run.
The gears still stick a little on some points, but I'm sure with some tweaking/oiling here and there, they should run smoother. I know I'll have to eventually buy new gears, but I'm hoping it'll be way in the future and I'll worry about that when the time comes.
I attached a pic of my finished cabinet running and lit up (had to DIY some of the lighting sources). The second picture is of the marquee, because it wouldn't come out on the full photo.
I really want to thank you, Scott for your quick replies and all your help. I definitely know that if I run into any problems with this, or future systems, this is THE place to go.
Thanks again. :notworthy: :cheers:
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SUCCESS!! ;D
Congrats. Looks great. :cheers:
BTW, another thing that will help is once the game boots up, move the yoke in the largest possible rectangle -- the game will automatically calibrate based on the greatest range of values returned by the pots. ;D
Scott