The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: zybeon on August 21, 2015, 04:51:48 pm
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I am on the final stages of my cabinet assembly but have some questions on what I should do for the PC buttons. I have a few extra regular sized buttons that I could use mounted on the top or back. But I was thinking of putting all controls easily accessible in the front. I plan to put them on the lower marquee holder on the outside of the speakers. Are there small arcade style buttons around? When looking I only found small square buttons.
I have this amp (http://"http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4MT274?psc=1") running the speakers. Is there an easier way to extend the volume control through the panel short of making a huge recessed hole or by remotely rewiring the POT into a recessed hole.
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You could always use Sanwa 24mm buttons. They are round and small.
http://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-obsf-24mm-pushbutton-black/ (http://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-obsf-24mm-pushbutton-black/)
Here's my CP with both the Sanwa 30mm and 24mm installed:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=320105;image)
Good Luck!
D
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OR if you need even smaller I got these black ones on EBAY for less than $3 for 5 -- ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-Button-Switch-3A-250V-off-on-1-Circuit-Non-Latching-Momentary-Type-2-Colors-/291221102239?var=&hash=item43ce215e9f (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-Button-Switch-3A-250V-off-on-1-Circuit-Non-Latching-Momentary-Type-2-Colors-/291221102239?var=&hash=item43ce215e9f) )
Pic of small black button and a red one the same size as delusional posted (the black one on his CP pic is the same as the red one in my pic for size reference ! - sorry for the blurry pic but only had the old camera handy !)
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OR if you need even smaller I got these black ones on EBAY for less than $3 for 5 -- ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-Button-Switch-3A-250V-off-on-1-Circuit-Non-Latching-Momentary-Type-2-Colors-/291221102239?var=&hash=item43ce215e9f (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-Button-Switch-3A-250V-off-on-1-Circuit-Non-Latching-Momentary-Type-2-Colors-/291221102239?var=&hash=item43ce215e9f) )
Pic of small black button and a red one the same size as delusional posted (the black one on his CP pic is the same as the red one in my pic for size reference ! - sorry for the blurry pic but only had the old camera handy !)
Thanks, do you know what their mounting depth is? They look rather short. Just asking to see if I would have to make a recessed hole in the back side for the nut. 16mm drill bit may be hard to find.
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OR if you need even smaller I got these black ones on EBAY for less than $3 for 5 -- ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-Button-Switch-3A-250V-off-on-1-Circuit-Non-Latching-Momentary-Type-2-Colors-/291221102239?var=&hash=item43ce215e9f (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-Button-Switch-3A-250V-off-on-1-Circuit-Non-Latching-Momentary-Type-2-Colors-/291221102239?var=&hash=item43ce215e9f) )
Pic of small black button and a red one the same size as delusional posted (the black one on his CP pic is the same as the red one in my pic for size reference ! - sorry for the blurry pic but only had the old camera handy !)
Thanks, do you know what their mounting depth is? They look rather short. Just asking to see if I would have to make a recessed hole in the back side for the nut. 16mm drill bit may be hard to find.
they are pretty much right at 1/2" mounting depth - I mounted a couple in 1/2" MDF and they pretty much sit flush with the bottom of the MDF -- IIRC I used either a 3/8 drill bit or a 1/2" spade bit for the hole (can't remember which) and it made a very tight fit so no nut was needed - You had to push pretty hard to get it back out of the hole once inserted - but a bit of glue could also be used if they hole gets a bit loose after awhile.
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Are you using an iPac? All those functions can be had without drilling and wiring up extra buttons by using the "SHIFT" function of the iPac. My son's arcade is wired up that way, he can EASILT control Power, reset, ESC, Tab, and volume up/down with the main fire buttons just by using the shift function of the iPac. The way it works, is you hold down the player 1 button while pressing any of the preassigned buttons to control those things.
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Are you using an iPac? All those functions can be had without drilling and wiring up extra buttons by using the "SHIFT" function of the iPac. My son's arcade is wired up that way, he can EASILT control Power, reset, ESC, Tab, and volume up/down with the main fire buttons just by using the shift function of the iPac. The way it works, is you hold down the player 1 button while pressing any of the preassigned buttons to control those things.
I understand the shift functions. I have a Howler BTW. I want to make it incredibly easy for anyone to use without having to explain things to every guest.
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Are you using an iPac? All those functions can be had without drilling and wiring up extra buttons by using the "SHIFT" function of the iPac. My son's arcade is wired up that way, he can EASILT control Power, reset, ESC, Tab, and volume up/down with the main fire buttons just by using the shift function of the iPac. The way it works, is you hold down the player 1 button while pressing any of the preassigned buttons to control those things.
I understand the shift functions. I have a Howler BTW. I want to make it incredibly easy for anyone to use without having to explain things to every guest.
I am assuming that this is the amplifier you are talking about: http://www.amazon.com/DROK-TDA7297-Digital-Amplifier-Wireless/dp/B00C4MT274 (http://www.amazon.com/DROK-TDA7297-Digital-Amplifier-Wireless/dp/B00C4MT274)
Seems like you have a few simple options.
First option: remove that plastic knob on the volume control. Then create a metal harness using aluminum(or whatever) L-brackets to hold the amplifier under your panel with the potentiometer sticking out. Finally extend a bolt/metal rod/something to the potentiometer and out to the panel where a new volume knob can be attached.
Second option: Remove the potentiometer completely. Solder wires from the pot to the board. Now you can mount it closer to the panel in any fashion you want.
Third option: Remove the potentiometer and throw it away/in drawer. Buy something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121362062272?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121362062272?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82) . Mount that on your panel since it has a longer shaft and thus easier to work with.
Personally I would do option 2 or 3.
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I am assuming that this is the amplifier you are talking about: http://www.amazon.com/DROK-TDA7297-Digital-Amplifier-Wireless/dp/B00C4MT274 (http://www.amazon.com/DROK-TDA7297-Digital-Amplifier-Wireless/dp/B00C4MT274)
Seems like you have a few simple options.
First option: remove that plastic knob on the volume control. Then create a metal harness using aluminum(or whatever) L-brackets to hold the amplifier under your panel with the potentiometer sticking out. Finally extend a bolt/metal rod/something to the potentiometer and out to the panel where a new volume knob can be attached.
Second option: Remove the potentiometer completely. Solder wires from the pot to the board. Now you can mount it closer to the panel in any fashion you want.
Third option: Remove the potentiometer and throw it away/in drawer. Buy something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121362062272?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121362062272?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82) . Mount that on your panel since it has a longer shaft and thus easier to work with.
Personally I would do option 2 or 3.
Those were my thoughts as well. Was planning to do Option 2 but wanted to see what others did before messing with that. The pot you linked looks just like the ones I was going to buy. (http://"http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Potentiometers-Trimmers-Rheostats/Potentiometers/_/N-9q0yp?P=1yzrybdZ1yzxmunZ1yzxmv5Z1yzxmtsZ1yvvye0Z1yzv78uZ1yzuk94Z1yzxmtwZ1yzxmvjZ1yzxmuiZ1yzxlefZ1yzxmuuZ1yzxmv4Z1yzxmu9Z1yvvyreZ1yzxlf9Z1yzxlejZ1yztolcZ1yzxmuoZ1yzxmttZ1yzxmuxZ1yzxmuvZ1yzvm31Z1yzmno6")
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For volume I mounted http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002J226O/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1440460101&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=volume+knob+rca&dpPl=1&dpID=41ZmLlVIp0L&ref=plSrch to the back of my panel (had to route out a slot) and put a custom knob on it so only the knob shows. Works great!!
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Found the perfect Power button for me. Realized that I don't even need a reset button as I would probably never use it. You can always hold the PWR button down till it shuts off. This way I can have the controls on only one side, preferably the P1 side.
http://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-Lighted-Self-locking-Stainless-Latching/dp/B00MGJ8JLU/ (http://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-Lighted-Self-locking-Stainless-Latching/dp/B00MGJ8JLU/)
And a pic for entertainment. I am assembling the case tonight.
(http://i.imgur.com/iq1ZM3y.jpg)
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That's a latching power button. You will probably want momentary instead if it's connected to a PC.
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That's a latching power button. You will probably want momentary instead if it's connected to a PC.
Yea, realized after I posted it. Here is a momentary one, sadly no power symbol on it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q84PFU (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q84PFU)
Found this on ebay but can't wait that long.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390651377582 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/390651377582)
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Well it is all together and I drilled and recessed the board for the power and volume controls.
https://imgur.com/a/NkEVj#gAhZlXT (https://imgur.com/a/NkEVj#gAhZlXT)
(https://i.imgur.com/gAhZlXT.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/M9cxBLN.jpg)
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Just wanted to finish this thread out with the solution to at least one thing. Thankfully the description on the amazon page was correct for the hole size. I drilled a pilot hole through the front of the speaker panel. Then used my 1 1/8" forstner bit to recess the back side to make space for the nut. Finally I drilled through the frond side with a 5/8" spade bit, I have a 5/8" drill bit but that started to splinter the wood (MDF user don't need to worry about that). I used Cat5 cable to wire it. I the soldered on header pins to the other end to easily connect to the original motherboard power and LED header.
For the volume control I happen to have some 1/4" brass tubing left from a humidifier install. The volume knob fits on it after compressing it a little. if the remotely mounted potentometer doesn't reach the front side of the panel I will use a short length of that tube to extend it.
(http://i.imgur.com/SZW0riY.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/WlpRZFW.jpg)