Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: JoeStrout on August 21, 2015, 04:18:34 pm
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I'm having some trouble getting my U-HIDs to work (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,146943.0.html) (I'm on my second one already, and even though Andy is trying to help, we're not making much progress).
So, since I'm bound and determined to get this thing working, I'm exploring alternatives. I considered getting a $10 AdaFruit "Trinket Pro" and programming it to emulate a keyboard (https://learn.adafruit.com/pro-trinket-keyboard/overview) or gamepad.
But then I thought: I already have four of these $10 gamepads (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002B9XB0E) lying around (the price has gone up to $11 since I bought them). I've used them quite a lot on both on Raspberry Pi and on Mac, and they work great. So, why not just hack them open and solder my own wires to the switch contacts? And then simply plug them into whatever Mac or Pi we end up putting in our arcade cabinet (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,146824.0.html)?
Seems like an easy enough hacking job (in fact could be a good experience for the yoots). But I thought I'd check here to see if anybody knows a good reason why this is a horrible idea.
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People do it all the time. You may need to use a program like autohotkey or Joy2key for emulators that don't support gamepad input.
You won't exactly be going into uncharted waters. Many people have done this and there should be plenty of tutorials.
There are even commercial encoders like the GPWiz and Zero Delay that show up as gamepads.
If you're only going to run MAME, then it basically makes no difference.
MAME works with anything.
Personally, I think a keyboard encoder that avoids the first four oddball default MAME keys (CTRL, ALT, SHIFT, SPACE IIRC) results in the least amount of hassle when it comes to adding other emulators later.
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Thanks. Is there a keyboard encoder you particularly like? I looked over the wiki (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Keyboard_Encoders), but when you eliminate Ultimarc (which I probably wouldn't go with again, if we end up 0/2 on these U-HID boards) and everything with a PS/2 interface (which is just silly), there aren't a lot of options left.
Also, with a keyboard encoder, I worry a bit about hitting some fiddly limit with number of simultaneous buttons (I would have 8 buttons for each of 4 players, when you count the joystick inputs).
Nice thing about the gamepad hack is that I've already tested it and know it works (even with 4 simultaneous players).
Of course I'm not giving up on my U-HID just yet... but it's good to have a plan B!
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I looked over the wiki (http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Keyboard_Encoders)
That's the old wiki. ::)
The new one is here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Keyboard_Encoders).
Also, with a keyboard encoder, I worry a bit about hitting some fiddly limit with number of simultaneous buttons
The 6-button USB limit is ONLY on "boot protocol" devices.
Unless you plan on doing an actual keyboard hack or buying an older model X-Arcade encoder (ask ark_ader about the workaround) you will not encounter that limit. ;D
Scott
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Hack a Logitech F310.
You'll get XInput for Windows games, and DirectInput so you can use the Logitech Profiler for keyboard over riders, with the flick of the switch.
And you can swap the DPAD with the ANALOG stick (left stick) with another button (this matters for Windows games....!)
I wish I would have done this instead of using the Akishop PS360+ encoders.
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Thank you for the suggestion. But I don't do Windows, so I don't know that much of that applies in my case. I just need something that acts like a USB gamepad or keyboard.
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Why would you go with a U-HID over an I-Pac?
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Why would you go with a U-HID over an I-Pac?
Not sure... but my 2012 self thought it was a great idea. And it does seem to have all the functionality I need... if I can just get the danged thing to actually work.