Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: CanadianRyGuy on July 13, 2015, 08:26:50 am
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http://www.kijiji.ca/v-video-games-consoles-other/oshawa-durham-region/big-buck-hunter/1086894047?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true (http://www.kijiji.ca/v-video-games-consoles-other/oshawa-durham-region/big-buck-hunter/1086894047?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true)
Would this originally have been like a TMNT or Simpsons? It looks like it based on the shape, but I'm no expert :)
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looks like a TMNT, single speaker opening, maybe sunset riders or a really good clone cab
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Well, I now officially own an arcade cabinet! (first one!)
Anyway of telling exactly what this would have been once I pick it up? I read a great thread on KLOV about a TMNT restore where they used paint remover on the painted sides to reveal the original artwork, would be very curious to see if I could do that to this one and what I might find!
I had always envisioned building a do-it-all MAME machine, but now with this I don't know? Should I try and restore it to what it used to be?
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here is my TMNT restore:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,143795.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,143795.0.html)
and here is one of MANY cabs I stripped black paint off of the sides of:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,145236.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,145236.0.html)
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Don't use a remover, its much too harsh, Try a enamel reducer soaked rag, Get a spot sloppy wet, and dry it immediately with your other hand. Just keep working your way around, and around the cab, not letting it stay wet anywhere, the topcoat will burn down to the original layer eventually....FWIW, adequate ventilation required.
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Don't use a remover, its much too harsh, Try a enamel reducer soaked rag, Get a spot sloppy wet, and dry it immediately with your other hand. Just keep working your way around, and around the cab, not letting it stay wet anywhere, the topcoat will burn down to the original layer eventually....FWIW, adequate ventilation required.
I dont use citristrip, but I do use paint remover. My methods are proven PinBallJenn :)
Mortal Kombat 4: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,140777.msg1458270.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,140777.msg1458270.html)
Mortal Kombat 3: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,145236.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,145236.0.html)
Mortal Kombat 1: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,139884.msg1447194.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,139884.msg1447194.html)
Killer Instinct: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,88688.msg930944.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,88688.msg930944.html)
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Seeings how that's a latex remover, Yes I suppose it would work, A remover however will remove paint, most likely on its own terms, and with distress to the binders (Not a bad plan if you plan to repaint).... It also requires a deactivation stage, water normally, And dumping water on a cab in my opinion is a bad idea.... And lastly, a remover will either remove or bubble your underlying stickers, and dry them out to the point where the edges will curl and break off with time....So good luck with yours.
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Seeings how that's a latex remover, Yes I suppose it would work, A remover however will remove paint, most likely on its own terms, and with distress to the binders (Not a bad plan if you plan to repaint).... It also requires a deactivation stage, water normally, And dumping water on a cab in my opinion is a bad idea.... And lastly, a remover will either remove or bubble your underlying stickers, and dry them out to the point where the edges will curl and break off with time....So good luck with yours.
Long time no see. Where you been, Jen?
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Seeings how that's a latex remover, Yes I suppose it would work, A remover however will remove paint, most likely on its own terms, and with distress to the binders (Not a bad plan if you plan to repaint).... It also requires a deactivation stage, water normally, And dumping water on a cab in my opinion is a bad idea.... And lastly, a remover will either remove or bubble your underlying stickers, and dry them out to the point where the edges will curl and break off with time....So good luck with yours.
Long time no see. Where you been, Jen?
Yeah. What he said.
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Seeings how that's a latex remover, Yes I suppose it would work, A remover however will remove paint, most likely on its own terms, and with distress to the binders (Not a bad plan if you plan to repaint).... It also requires a deactivation stage, water normally, And dumping water on a cab in my opinion is a bad idea.... And lastly, a remover will either remove or bubble your underlying stickers, and dry them out to the point where the edges will curl and break off with time....So good luck with yours.
Thanks, Killer Instinct has been fine for over 6 years since I stripped the sides and the ones I did after that I used an even milder paint remover. None of the cabs I stripped have been repainted either (or had water dumped on them). Hows about you pick up a bottle of the stuff I used and give it a whirl before you dismiss it? Do you have any links to the cabs you've striped that had vinyl underneath, so I can see what you used, and your results?
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Im not dismissing your chems, A latex remover would be relatively mild and less caustic than other removers, Still, Jennifer is NOT wrong.... Its a long story guys, But short version, I got a really bad case of arc flash while out welding and couldn't look at light , It was really miserable, Im better now though, Btw Yot. LOVE the chip blower. 8)
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Im not dismissing your chems, A latex remover would be relatively mild and less caustic than other removers, Still, Jennifer is NOT wrong.
I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm saying I'm right :)
But you are wrong about having to dump water on a cab, that's just silly talk.
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Or is it? Read the can, "To be neutralized with water" If you don't the residue WILL eat through, and in some cases even start to remove your new topcoat, compromising adhesion .... However what the can doesn't say is mineral spirits and a wipe of reducer will work too.
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Or is it? Read the can, "To be neutralized with water" If you don't the residue WILL eat through, and in some cases even start to remove your new topcoat, compromising adhesion .... However what the can doesn't say is mineral spirits and a wipe of reducer will work too.
I dont understand the back and forth.
Wiping a cab down with a wet paper towel , and dumping water on them arent the same thing. I digress, you win.
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OK, so I have a few questions:
Malenko: Can you give me the name of the product you use on the sides? I'm probably just going to do a test in one spot and see how it goes. I don't expect whatever is underneath to be in great shape, so if it doesn't come out perfect or last forever than I'm not too concerned.
On the control panel, someone seems to have glued a Buck Hunter cp over the original. Not sure exactly what kind of adhesive it is but was curious to see if I could try and get it off to see the original cp if its still there. Any suggestions? blow dryer?
Looking at the bottom of the cp, you can see the original holes for the buttons and joysticks (99% sure it was TMNT) along with additional holes drilled probably for another game they converted it to. Would it be easier to fill all the holes and drill new ones for a six or seven button layout for players 1 and 2 or just have a completely new panel made?
When picking up the unit, the guy said to be careful of 2 electrical components in the base that if touched can shock you, is there a way to discharge these or something so I don't mistakenly kill myself? Are there other concerns I should know about when dealing with arcade machines?
To get this thing hooked up to a computer I would need an ArcadeVGA card correct? or what about a J-PAC?
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I used this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=328620;image)
Paint Erase Latex Paint Remover
When removing a CPO I use a heat gun, but if you dont have one a hair dryer works, just takes a lot longer. Its probably a ton easier to get a new CP cut. Haruman cut a new CP for me, so he already has the exact template made for that cab. He can cut it as a blank , with the TMNT button template, or any button layout you want.
If the cab is unplugged nothing can really shock you except the anode on the monitor. If you plan to go PC to arcade monitor you need either an ArcadeVGA, or Soft15, or CRT EmuDriver, etc to push an signal that the arcade monitor accepts. The JPAC just takes the signal from the PC and passes it along to the arcade monitor and filters out the bad signals. The JPAC also acts as the keyboard encoder and allows you to keep the cabinet wired for the JAMMA standard.
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Hmm I don't see that stuff on the Canadian Home Depot website, would these be ok alternatives?
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/ez-strip-all-purpose-remover-474-m-l-spray-bottle/875306 (http://www.homedepot.ca/product/ez-strip-all-purpose-remover-474-m-l-spray-bottle/875306)
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/tremclad-graffiti-remover-426g/981478# (http://www.homedepot.ca/product/tremclad-graffiti-remover-426g/981478#)
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I use 3M safest stripper. It is very mild and I have had great results with it. Brush on, wait and scrape off with a plastic scraper.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Stripper-Varnish-Remover-10101/dp/B00002NCJK (http://www.amazon.com/3M-Stripper-Varnish-Remover-10101/dp/B00002NCJK)
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61VCyUwHn5L._SL1000_.jpg)
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**Jennifer gets all amused**..... If you put that on your cab you may want to plan on repainting it when your done. If there is a nice factory finish hidden under that paint it WILL be removed.... Before I leave though, It should be pointed out (and you may already know this) that a faulty arcade cab can store a nasty charge even when unplugged, I once took a jolt that literally blew a filling out of my tooth, Just by touching the frame, Rare Yes, but it does happen, So you may want to read the monitor discharge sticky before you start poking around back there.
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...So you may want to read the monitor discharge sticky before you start poking around back there.
+1 :applaud:
Congrats on the pickup. One of these days i want to do a Simpsons/TMNT/TurtlesInTime all in one. Nice to know that sorta thing can be found in Alberta for under $1500. :laugh:
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Thanks ChanceKJ for postings those pics up, certainly will make it easier for people to know what I'm talking about.
Though the Kijiji add said it was in Grande Prairie, AB he was actually in Ontario. He said he got tons of responses to his posting and kept asking if I was for sure going to take it. I think for $100 I got it for a steal. It needs some work for sure, but all in all I think it's in pretty good shape.
I peeled back the Buck Hunter cp to reveal some sort of generic thing, unless someone can identify it as being from a game?(https://dl.pushbulletusercontent.com/EcLys2cJW6bCdomRfR9KhQ7FSqbfe6z3/IMG_20150715_071336.jpg)
Thanks Jennifer for the tip about the monitor. I will certainly read up more on that. Does the monitor always hold that charge or does it dissipate after time? Does it harm the monitor to discharge it? (I would assume not, but asking anyways lol)
A question on JAMMA PCB's, seeing as how this thing was setup for buck hunter and was working other than needing a replacement hdd, could I assume that I can simply swap out the board with any other PCB board? or do they have different connections? Thinking for the time being of getting a multi pcb board and installing it just to start playing on it.
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the JAMMA standard is made so you can just swap boards. There are extra things on some games, like connectors the guns, or kick harnesses for street fighter and mortal kombat.
You dont need to discharge the monitor unless your working on the chassis. If its staying in place youre fine. You could grab an 2XXX in 1 board and be good to go.
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That's good to know, does anyone have recommendations on a good multi pcb? Are they all of similar quality and game selection?
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I'm loving my ArcadeSD board. It's a bit on the pricey side, but well made, has some of the best games, it's menu and programming is fantastic and every so often there's an update (rarely, yes but still they do come).
That or just buy a 60-in-1.
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I'm loving my ArcadeSD board. It's a bit on the pricey side, but well made, has some of the best games, it's menu and programming is fantastic and every so often there's an update (rarely, yes but still they do come).
That or just buy a 60-in-1.
60 in 1 on a horizontal cab? naw
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Yeah, it's not the best.
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Cool, I'll def look into that ArcadeSD board.
Another thing I was curious about were the coin doors. I'm totally new to these and doing some reading, it looks as though mine are missing the coin mechs? Correct me if I'm wrong lol
Could something like this be used or do they require a special type of coin mech?
http://na.suzohapp.com/amusement_products/coin_doors/42-3115-00 (http://na.suzohapp.com/amusement_products/coin_doors/42-3115-00)
(https://dl.pushbulletusercontent.com/llLUxylYwM5pcN5HDr6dICoLfDGn0MAX/IMG_20150715_230427.jpg)
(https://dl.pushbulletusercontent.com/Z95zEjGHAlpQod9ht4yxPLfCU5oeT7KC/IMG_20150715_230612.jpg)