Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: mgb on June 29, 2015, 12:05:15 am
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I'm doing a full re-design on this project.
I will be changing the name as well.
Here is the new design:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=339298;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=339296;image)
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Here are a few concept designs I did on sketchup.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=330914;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=330916;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=330918;image)
I don't want a plug jack on the side but I want to be able to plug it in neatly whether its on it's pedestal or a table so this is my plan:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=330920;image)
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The monitor I'm using is an HP LP2065.
It's a 20" 4:3 IPS display.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=330898;image)
I stripped it out of its casing to save as much room as I possibly can
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=330896;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=330900;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=330902;image)
For the brains I will be using a Dell Duo Core Laptop I had around.
I stripped the mobo out and will be adding a SSD with Windows 7.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=330904;image)
My plans are to keep it as light as possible.
Games will be limited to 2 and 4 way verticals and possible a couple of horizontal games run in cocktail mode, like Neo Bomberman.
I'm also planning a couple of usb ports for some game pads to play classic consoles with it in horizontal mode.
beyond that I don't plan on really any admin buttons. probably no pause and I'm not planning on coin buttons as I will set games to free play and use player 1 & 2 together for exit.
I would like to make the front end fun and I'm thinking of using Hyperspin on this one
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This space reserved for some progress.
I've gotta get cutting :)
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I'm open to any ideas for the artwork on this.
Not that there's a whole bunch of room but like I said, I want it to be a fun kid friendly type of vibe.
Thanks
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I cannot help you on the artwork but I love the design. :applaud:
Could you use the base from a barstool and make the height adjustable?
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I'd be concerned about it tipping. How high is it going to be?
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I like the inset IEC power inlet. ;D
Instead of a bump in the bottom t-molding for the power cord, have you considered adding rubber feet on the bottom that are tall enough to keep the sides from pinching the cord when VertiGO is on a tabletop.
Maybe add two or three cord retaining "fingers" like in the attached pic to make it harder to accidently pull out the power cord.
Scott
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Like the concept - but does look like it might be a bit tipsy (esp. when moving the joysticks ) :dunno
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If the base is a little oversized, tipping shouldn't be an issue.
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I'd be concerned about it tipping. How high is it going to be?
I'm with yotsuya. This thing will tip the first time an overenthusiastic friend yanks on the controls. The base would have to be either bolted down, very heavy or wider than what you've drawn.
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Yeah, I've thought about the whole tipping possibility.
The base shown in the sketchups is just for reference.
I've checked out a couple of bar type pedestal tables and the bases are pretty heavy.
I'm planning on it being at a height where you can use a regular chair.
I'm not completely married to the pedestal base so if it doesn't work out, I'll be fine.
I don't have friends that play arcade games, nor do I have parties at my house so I'm not worried about it getting knocked over by a drunk friend or anything.
Scott, good call on the cabinet feet. I am planning on putting feet on it but wasn't planning on them being high enough to sit over the cord. I will consider that though. You do have a point, it would cause a little aesthetics issue with the tmolding.
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Hmmm - Just remembered I have an old metal bar table that would be perfect for this type of setup -- It's actually pretty stable as is so this might not be too unstable :dunno
The one I have is height adjustable from what would be sitting height like a normal cocktail cab to bar stool or stand up height so would be a pretty good base for you if you can find something similar (and has nice metal brackets that could make a square base for the unit with a bit of adapting !)
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Yeah that's right where I'm thinking.
I'm waiting to hear back from a guy on Craigslist for one that looks good
I'm not worried about modifying it to my needs either.
I have access to people who weld so it should all work out.
But even if the pedestal base proves too tipsy, what the hey, I'll still have a nice tabletop machine
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Yeah that's right where I'm thinking.
I'm waiting to hear back from a guy on Craigslist for one that looks good
I'm not worried about modifying it to my needs either.
I have access to people who weld so it should all work out.
But even if the pedestal base proves too tipsy, what the hey, I'll still have a nice tabletop machine
Perhaps make a table top for the pedestal base designed to mount the machine but also be easily removed so then the pedestal could be used as a small table top when not using the machine or when using the machine elsewhere.
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Yeah that's right where I'm thinking.
I'm waiting to hear back from a guy on Craigslist for one that looks good
I'm not worried about modifying it to my needs either.
I have access to people who weld so it should all work out.
But even if the pedestal base proves too tipsy, what the hey, I'll still have a nice tabletop machine
Perhaps make a table top for the pedestal base designed to mount the machine but also be easily removed so then the pedestal could be used as a small table top when not using the machine or when using the machine elsewhere.
Well, to play devil's advocate, why not just put the tabletop machine on top of the small table and not worry about switching parts out?
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Here's a slightly better example of the "cord retaining fingers" mentioned above. ;D
Scott
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Well, to play devil's advocate, why not just put the tabletop machine on top of the small table and not worry about switching parts out?
Not a bad idea either - figure that would also give you plenty of room for the cupholders :laugh2: :cheers:
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No cup holders!!!
I realize I can just sit it on a small table but that's just not the exact setup I'm looking for.
I would like a particular look to it that having it on the pedestal would give.
I am thinking of different ways to mount it on the pedestal though.
I know it'd be easier to just sit it on a table but then again it's easier to just play the games on my regular home computer with a game pad but where's the fun in that. :)
Scott,
I'm familiar with the cord retaining fingers.
Good idea, I may go that route but with having them a little looser than some I have seen
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The monitor I'm using is an HP LP2065.
It's a 20" 4:3 IPS display.
Are you sure that's an IPS? That model had two different screens.
From a review:
Check the revision number on your box or on the back of your monitor. If it starts with "GSM" followed by 3 numbers then you have an S-IPS panel and won the "HP Lottery". Otherwise, you got the MVA panel which, while good, is not as color accurate as the IPS.
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Neat idea for a build, looking forward to seeing it progress. I'd say avoid the notch for the electric plug if you can, think it'd look better without.
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The monitor I'm using is an HP LP2065.
It's a 20" 4:3 IPS display.
Are you sure that's an IPS? That model had two different screens.
From a review:
Check the revision number on your box or on the back of your monitor. If it starts with "GSM" followed by 3 numbers then you have an S-IPS panel and won the "HP Lottery". Otherwise, you got the MVA panel which, while good, is not as color accurate as the IPS.
Thanks for that because I had read that there were two different displays so I wasn't positive but I checked and sure enough it has the Gsm followed by 000 (I'm not sure why just zeros.)
Only kinda crumby thing is it has 2 dvi inputs and no vga input.
I will be using a vga to dvi plug will the mini slg still work as long as its before the adaptor
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I was really wanting a round base but I found these on Craigslist and at $15 each, I'll probably pick one up. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=331014;image)
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Thanks for that because I had read that there were two different displays so I wasn't positive but I checked and sure enough it has the Gsm followed by 000 (I'm not sure why just zeros.)
Only kinda crumby thing is it has 2 dvi inputs and no vga input.
I will be using a vga to dvi plug will the mini slg still work as long as its before the adaptor
:cheers:
I almost jumped on a good deal on the a while back but I have 3 20inch or larger 3:4 monitors waiting for me back in the U.S. If you don't mind me asking how much did you pay for it?
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$38 including shipping
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A few things here:
First off, I wouldn't really "secure the plug" like people suggested. If anything you WANT it to unplug if someone were to trip on the power cord accidentally. Better to have it power off then to have it sideways on the ground with the cord still attached. Most consoles today are designed this way (controllers) for that very reason.
The SLG works fine with DVI/VGA adapters on a monitor. So no worries there. I've tested them on my Samsung IPS monitor. Also, you can put the SLG on either end of the VGA cord and it will still work. So you could have the DVI/VGA adapter, the SLG, the VGA cord and the computer. Or, the DVI/VGA adapter, the VGA cord, the SLG and the computer.
As for the pedestal, the ones for $15 look like the ones used on those wobbly tables you see everywhere. Are you sure you want them?
Del
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I would personally have a permanent extension cord that goes down the interior of the stand pole and out the bottom. Then have it plug into a coiled up cable hidden in an inside compartment, like the old boom boxes used to have because the 8 D batteries lasted only 2 hours. If you want to play free from the stand, unplug the extension cord, lift out the machine and uncoil the internal power cable.
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I would personally have a permanent extension cord that goes down the interior of the stand pole and out the bottom. Then have it plug into a coiled up cable hidden in an inside compartment, like the old boom boxes used to have because the 8 D batteries lasted only 2 hours. If you want to play free from the stand, unplug the extension cord, lift out the machine and uncoil the internal power cable.
I have thought of something kinda along those lines. Bassically having a cord inside the pedestal shaft.
I'll really work out the odds and ends on that once I have a pedestal.
Delusional,
I hear you on the wobbly table thing. There are a few reasons for that though. Many times it's also do to uneven restaurant floors and missing feet on the table stand. Also sometimes just a loose table top.
There's still the possibility of this whole thing being wobbly but that's sometging I still have to work on.
Worst case, I can build the pedestal my self or if I really can get a stable stand I will just put it on a table.
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I think it's a great aesthetic you're going for and any wobble issues you'll be able to work through fairly easily with a bit of trial and error. Looks like a fun project and a great take on the cocktail.
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Where is the stand going to be placed -- If you plan to have it always setup could always stabilize by adding some anchors into the floor so that it doesn't move. :dunno
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Man, I just noticed that in my sketchups I have the buttons for player 2 on the wrong side.
JDfan, bolting it down won't really be an option. Though that would be a great way of doing it in a dedicated game room.
I did find a couple of cabinets that use this pedestal idea but I wouldn't be surprised if they get bolted down.
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I'm hoping to cut the sides soon.
I'm hoping to get them cnc'd for a nice clean finish.
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Not sure if they'd be heavy enough but how about 1 or 2 of those weighted bottoms for patio umbrellas? You could remove the poles when not in use and store the stands.
(http://www.eightbitmonk.com/shared_images/Misc/56c55864e1d289eca3b861ef3d3dc64a_zpsbyt4dmv6.jpg)
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So last night I was at the arcade in the Indian Casino and they had some tables in there's with the perfect base for I'm looking to do.
These bases are very much stable.
Of course a base this tall would need to be cut down a bit for the height I want but that's not a big deal.
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I think what you want to search for is a 17" cast iron round table base with footring.
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Looks like about $100 (https://www.google.com/search?q=table+base+with+footrest&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=table+base+with+footrest&tbm=shop&spd=4527149600969674103).
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You guys are awesome.
Thanks for the leads on where to look.
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I think what you want to search for is a 17" cast iron round table base with footring.
I'm actually looking to stick with a 22".
The one I saw last night was definitely 22"
The foot ring would be nice but not needed, especially because I plan to have it shorter.
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I think what you want to search for is a 17" cast iron round table base with footring.
I'm actually looking to stick with a 22".
The one I saw last night was definitely 22"
The foot ring would be nice but not needed, especially because I plan to have it shorter.
Looks like you can save quite a bit of money if you don't need the footring.
http://www.bizchair.com/ji3-22rdtp12bhfr-jib.html (http://www.bizchair.com/ji3-22rdtp12bhfr-jib.html)
http://www.bizchair.com/ji3-22rdtp12-jib.html (http://www.bizchair.com/ji3-22rdtp12-jib.html)
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Yeah, it appears that the ones with the foot rings are 41" bar height units but I'm looking for the 28" dining height type which is like the 2nd one you posted.
I found a nice one for $50 plus $24 shipping.
I'm also searching local places to see if I can save the shipping.
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I've continued on with designing the cabinet and from what I can tell so far, I really think the 22" round table base will work.
here is a further thought render
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=331718;image)
I'm looking for some eye catching colors and graphics. I'm still working on CPOs but I'm liking yellow for the sides. I also thinking chrome t-molding.
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I like the look your going for.
You could also tack welt the bast to a square sheet of sheet metal and cover it with rubber.
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It's been slow going with a busy summer but I've been getting things set up on the computer end and messing around with some different things.
I got the sides cut but need to perfect the curves a little.
I did some mocking up with the monitor and sides tonight.
The pics make it look a little long with somewhat odd proportions on the cp ends but it's really pretty nice in real life.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=333328;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=333332;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=333334;image)
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Sweet! Looks awesome so far!
Tip: Once you get the sides perfected, route out a template and put it away for safekeeping. I'm sure you'll have a family member who will want one in the future. :-)
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Cool project, like what you've done so far.
Logo kind of reminds me of Space Jam.
Are you going to get some matching stools/chairs?
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Thanks guys,
Good point delusional, I will do that.
Harvey, thanks
You're right, it does have a little resemblance to the space jam logo.
Definitely not my intention. I can't even remember the last time I saw that logo.
I probably won't do custom stools or chairs.
My plans are to have it regular table height (I think it's around 28-30")
I found good sources for brand new 22" round table bases.
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Really digging these kinds of cocktails. :cheers:
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I've continued on with designing the cabinet and from what I can tell so far, I really think the 22" round table base will work.
here is a further thought render
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=331718;image)
I'm looking for some eye catching colors and graphics. I'm still working on CPOs but I'm liking yellow for the sides. I also thinking chrome t-molding.
You could try to pick up a secondhanc Ikea Billsta table. I bought one for $28 / € 25
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2edmvyx.jpg)
You then can use the stand.
Apparantly Ikea also has or had another Billsta stand, but looks smaller/shorter.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2rei98n.jpg)
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I'm gonna be going for a round base rather than the 4 prong type.
Webstaurant supplies has the type I want for around $50.
Unfortunately shipping is $30+ but I'm sort of holding off on that part.
I'll continue to look local including second hand shops
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Looks really great; I love the design. :applaud:
I saw that you aren't interested in doing custom chairs, but just a thought: if you found some that were the right size, you could nest them underneath like this and cut the tops to fit right up against the underside of the cocktail to stabilize it when not in use. Put a flip latch like you see on toolboxes on the sides to hold it all together. You could even put a painted facade on the back and sides of the chairs to make it look like a full cocktail, then have it open up into your hovering cocktail and chairs. That'd be a whole new project though. (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w4BzW4asj8mIT_qanVwODdP8Y09hhIm8t8Wo83-Ka8Y=w1232-h623-no)
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That is an interesting idea.
I may consider some kind of custom chairs after I'm done.
I get sidetracked so often though on the project itself that I will have to finish the actual machine before considering extra parts.
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I'm back at work on this project. Just been busy and at kind of a stand still with it.
I realized I couldn't come up with anything for art work and design with the Vertigo logo so I'm scrapping the name and going in a different direction.
I still wanna keep it light and fun though.
I'm leaning more toward a retro futuristic kind of design. I'm thinking colors of white, red (dull), black and gray
I have some vague ideas in my head for this design but I'm still looking for inspiration.
Another big change I'm thinking about is the cp layout.
my original idea was for head-to-head 4 way CPs each with 2 buttons
Now I'm really thinking how nice this machine would be for vertical shmups so I'm now thinking to have 1 CP be dedicated 4-way and the other dedicated 8-way (round gate, not square)
I'd still like to come up with a good automatic 8 to 4 way converter that doesn't use a square restrictor and then I will be able to have head to head.
with this new layout, I will also have 3 buttons per CP.
any ideas on sources for inspiration would be great. Thanks
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I think this is a cool idea. Can't wait to see where you go with it.
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So I'm still experimenting with the general shape & design of this machine.
I think I'm leaning more toward something like this.
I've gotta get cutting some patterns.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=339171;image)
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Just tightening up the design some more.
I think this will be pretty much the final design.
Just gotta get to making a pattern for the sides.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=339296;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=339298;image)
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Better hurry up. This is probably the last week of nice weather!
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I'll be cutting in my basement so I'm not worried about the weather
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Now I know where to go to cut my stuff! Lol.
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I'm liking the design change. Are you gonna do LED lights in the holes on the side?
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I'm liking the design change. Are you gonna do LED lights in the holes on the side?
There will be grills set in behind the holes. The holes closest to the control panels will be for audio and to let cooling air in/out
The middle hole is for cooling.
I am planning on some LED illumination but I still need to experiment for what will look best.
For buttons, I'm planning on black plungers with lit rims.
I'm also planning on some underneath led strips for a little ground effect glow.
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So, the art & design is very important to me.
I really want to have a somewhat retro-futuristic look to this.
I love that look of industrial meets future.
Tonight I'm trying to come up with a new name and logo to set the design to.
First logo to pop in my head for inspiration is Telefunken, a German manufacturer of radios, televisions and microphones.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=339774;image)
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Any progress on this?
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Wow, I have not been on here in a while.
I've actually been working hard on changing companies I work for and taking care of some certifications as well as work on the house.
I fully plan on getting back into this project and pushing further.
I've started making the templates for the sides and I need to finish cutting them out.