The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: tommytrish on June 05, 2015, 01:41:10 pm
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Hello, all. I am new to this site and arcade games in general. i have a work buddy who helps me out. He used to work at an arcade. He is good at servicing machines but not necessarily fixing certain things. Long story short, I bought a Golden Tee cabinet that would not come on. I bought a Golden Tee 2005 complete setup from Arcade Adventures. When it came in we set it up and it came on but the screen was garbled. My friend had me send off the monitor chassis for repair. WHen it came back, the picture was better but still garbled. I can't even read the preboot lines and menu items. I had him take my board and vid card to his house and it fired up perfectly. I have attached a pic. Any help would be appreciated
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Sorry, new to this forum. I will include the monitor and chassis model when I get home from work.
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the hsync frequency being fed to the monitor is 3 times higher than what it is set to process .
in layman's terms feeding a high res signal to a standard res monitor.
some older monitors have dual res capability ( manually switched )
newer units are multi sync
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Assuming you have a low res monitor,
Have you checked the dip switches on the board to make sure it's set to output 15Khz
Make sure switch 1 is in the on position, switch 2 try the default first but then try it in the off position and see if that improves the image.
Dip switch 1 (OFF): Medium Resolution (DEFAULT)
Dip switch 1 (ON): Low Resolution
**Dip switch 2 (OFF): Low Resolution B Adjust
Dip switch 2 (ON): Low Resolution A (DEFAULT)
Dip switch 3 (ON): Always "ON" (DEFAULT)
Dip switch 4 (ON): Always "ON" (DEFAULT)
and just to check, you are feeding the monitor from the Jamma connector and not out of the VGA card.
Hope this helps
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THANK You guys so much. For some reason the dip switch 1 was on and was jacking up the picture. You guys are awesome.
One more question, I have tried many adjustments (HOR Size, Hor Pos, Vert Size, etc...basically all of the controls) but the screen still sits about an inch or two from the left side. THe Hor Pos is all the way to the left and making it bigger horizontally only stretches it further out the right side. Any ideas?
Regardless, thanks for your help
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I switched 1 to Off and it fire up correctly. I switched 2 to off and got jumbled picture. Still missing the left 1" of the screen
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Hi guys!
Came across this thread while trying to get my 2005 GT Complete PCB board connected properly to a Dell 20" Computer Monitor via an 8200 V4 VGA Converter board. I've tried all the various clamp settings and resolution settings without much luck. My problem is I'm getting a shakey screen picture. I can't even read the on screen dip switch settings. I've scoured the interwebs looking for answers and this is the first post I found talking about physical dip switches on the board, which I didnt even know were there until i searched for them. they are tiny. I've tried adjust them without much luck yet. Any advice to would be much appreciated!
Thanks for any help.
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The monitor is a Dell 2007FPB, 4:3 1600X1200 in case that makes a difference on any suggestions thanks!
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AGAIN as mentioned before here, http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129561.msg1325609/topicseen.html#msg1325609
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Ok, so because of this:
golden tee outputs something OTHER than standard resolutions.
resolution: 640x350
h-frequency: 25.7KHz
v-frequency: 60.6hz
pixel clock: 21.5khz
it's the 25.7khz that's the kicker.
the cga/ega frequencies the converter can handle are
14.5 - 16.5khz -which is cga
23.5 - 25.5khz -which is ega
30.5 - 32.5khz -which is vga
as you can see, the frequency falls just outside into the space between ega and vga
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Neither the medium or low resolutions settings on the GT board will work correctly transitioned to the monitor via the VBA converter?
Am I understanding that correctly?
Should I just get a different monitor?
Thanks for clarifying, Im not the most technical guy.
:)
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Both these videos show this mod being done (I believe) with the CGI to VGA converter on the 2005 GT Complete
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-CK1QEzxcY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4MMRlWQGW0&t=201s
Here are pics of the converter boards. I've notice that in both cases, neither guy used the wiring harness that came with the VGA converter board and the guy in the 2nd video actually says that they have found the larger pin connections to work better. Thinking I should try to get the 5 pin molex wiring harness and try it with the larger pin connects. Can't seem to find it on ebay, thoughts?
Thanks much
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the GBS8100 has been cloned so many times (clones of clones of clones of clones...) at this point, you can't be sure if it will properly sync or not. i have heard some people have no problem syncing 15k into them. (or are oblivious to any issue it does have) other have the jittery video being as good as it gets.
according to the directions contain within the one I had received, those where the limits. maybe a clone will work better or worse. maybe an original will work better...or worse. it's hard to say.
i know the frequency doesn't matter with a CRT with it's horizontal and vertical adjustments, the pic could be out 10 or 15% and you'd still be able to adjust the vertical and horizontal size and still be able to get it filled to the screen... but with a whole frame buffered device like an LCD or these convertors, it's expecting a complaint frequency frame to be coming in so it can be properly retransmitted.
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I've given up on getting the VGA converter board to work and think I may have found a used 19" arcade monitor that can work for this project.
Can anyone verify if this is a CGA connection input?
Thanks much!
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man, where do these people come from ? :dizzy:
yes. i suggest you plop your monitor make and model into the gargler and get a owners manual for it. it's going to have all the connectors and what they do and how to hook it up and might even have some configuration you might have to do if you happen to use composite sync or h/v and if it's positive or negative sync. when you use that connector.