Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Homietheclown on April 13, 2015, 10:33:33 pm
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I can't find many people's comments on this surprisingly enough.
I am looking to get some plexi for the my cab. Here's what I know. Maybe someone can fill in the blanks.
The marque plexi should be clear. The control panel should also be clear. Some people use poly-carbonate over plexi.
The monitor plexi is where I am lost. I believe I've seen some people claim not to use clear plexi. One guy used gray 49% light transmission. That's about the only opinion i've seen. I'm also wondering do people order a size larger than they need and cut it down by themselves with a router or saw?
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Clear is fine if your monitor is nice and bright and burn free. Smoked/tinted is a good way to hide a monitor with heavy burn and can also reduce glare. It can also hide your monitor if you don't have a good shroud as long as you go dark enough on the tint. Amber seems to hide imperfections pretty well.
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Clear is fine if your monitor is nice and bright and burn free. Smoked/tinted is a good way to hide a monitor with heavy burn and can also reduce glare. It can also hide your monitor if you don't have a good shroud as long as you go dark enough on the tint. Amber seems to hide imperfections pretty well.
Thanks for replying. So did you go with a cast plexi or extruded? I've read that you can cut cast plexi without it burning the sides. I just want to hear that from some on this board. How do you cut plexi? A router?
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For just a plain piece of plexi I go to my local hardware store and they cut it for me to size which is awesome.
For a control panel there are many ways to cut it. I have seen people use a router but have not done so myself. I've had it cut to size and then cut holes using both a bi-metal hole saw and also a pilot drill with a step bit. I am sure a router would also work great. I think the issue is that you need to watch the amount of pressure you use to prevent breaking and that you are letting heat dissipate to prevent melting.
There are lots of more experienced people that have posted here on this topic.
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Yeah, careful with the pressure. I have a 1/2 drill bit that I use to make a hole for my 1/2 flush trim router bit, and that works best for me.
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A CNC laser is the best way to cut Plexi. We have a 60 Watt one at work that I'm using to make a fight stick called "vs stick". Depending on where you live you may be able to find a hacker collective or maker space you may be to take a class and buy time on the equipment. Here is on in Brooklyn: http://www.nycresistor.com/laser/ (http://www.nycresistor.com/laser/)
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So does everyone here have an arcade that they bought or built themsevles? If so did all of you guys use clear plexiglass or poly-carbonate for the section that goes in front of the monitor. My monitor is a LCD and not some old authentic crt monitor like the ones in the arcades.
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I used clear plexi, it looks fine, but smoked plexi seems to make it look a little better when I see it on other members projects.
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I used to cut it down myself with a table saw and fine tooth blade. I've come to learn that there are so many places that will cut it for free, that it makes no sense to do it myself.
If you're in the U.S., Lowes will cut it for free. My local glass shop has been surprisingly cheap (they also cut for free if you're buying from them).
The good thing with letting the place you're buying it from cut it: if they mess it up it doesn't cost you anything.
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Here's an update for anyone who is in the same boat as me looking for a sheet to cover the monitor. There doesn't seem to be much of a guide for picking out acrylic sheets for the monitor here in the forums.
When I first started my research, I learned here and from other websites that Cast acrylic sheets is better than Extruded acrylic sheets. I've called 7 places and explained my application for it and each of them said extruded would be ok. I agree with you guys with the clear plexi. A tinted or smoke color would make it look better which is why I am putting the effort in and not going to Lowes.
So for you newbies out there like me, you want to get something that's transparent and NOT translucent. The best piece i've seen online is this:
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/transparent-light-bronze-acrylic-sheet (https://www.inventables.com/technologies/transparent-light-bronze-acrylic-sheet)
The problem is the sheet size is too small and they don't mention the color by name. Most plexiglass (a.k.a. acrylic sheets) that companies sell have a color and 4digit number associated with them. For example I am looking at a couple different colors.
Bronze 2404 & myabe Gray 2514/2515
I've got to go look at some samples soon. My biggest concern besides picking one and being able to cut it without a laser and the cost. I'm in Dallas. The few places aorund here sell it in 48" x 96" sheets that is around $85 dollars a sheet. And that's not counting the charge to cut it. :hissy:
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My biggest concern besides picking one and being able to cut it without a laser and the cost. I'm in Dallas. The few places aorund here sell it in 48" x 96" sheets that is around $85 dollars a sheet. And that's not counting the charge to cut it. :hissy:
I get can get a 24x48 sheet from Home Depot for $25. And I cut it for free on my table saw. :dizzy:
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go to a sign shop and ask to look at their samples. The last time I needed some semi transparent white acrylic sheets for RGB LED illumination from behind.
The sign shop had a ring with a 2 dozen or so small sheets of various thicknesses and opaqueness that I held in front of a mockup I brought along to test the transmission quality of each.
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My biggest concern besides picking one and being able to cut it without a laser and the cost. I'm in Dallas. The few places aorund here sell it in 48" x 96" sheets that is around $85 dollars a sheet. And that's not counting the charge to cut it. :hissy:
I get can get a 24x48 sheet from Home Depot for $25. And I cut it for free on my table saw. :dizzy:
Hey Yotsuya. Your advice is always most appreciated! The stuff you mention is clear though and not colored right?
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My biggest concern besides picking one and being able to cut it without a laser and the cost. I'm in Dallas. The few places aorund here sell it in 48" x 96" sheets that is around $85 dollars a sheet. And that's not counting the charge to cut it. :hissy:
I get can get a 24x48 sheet from Home Depot for $25. And I cut it for free on my table saw. :dizzy:
Hey Yotsuya. Your advice is always most appreciated! The stuff you mention is clear though and not colored right?
I can get bronze plexi for a little bit more. I am able get a bunch of uses out of one sheet.
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For my bartop - I went with a 1/2" thick piece recycled from a broken sheet from the local skating/hockey rink - they had a few sheets sitting around that had been cracked during hockey games and replaced so I helped myself to a couple of the larger unscratched pieces and cut them with my table saw to get a decent piece without scratches - It worked out well and the price was great !!
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I don't think anyone has mentioned this but keep in mind that Plexi is generally very brittle and cracks easily when drilling. If you want a more easily drillable product use Lexan. It has similar characteristics as Plexi but it's much more soft and therefore easy to drill without messing it up. It's available at Lowes/Home Depot just like Plexi too.
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lexan is not real great for control panels, it tends to scratch like a mofo. even the joystick dust washer will scratch a circle on it until it has a matte finish..
for a vandal proof panel, yes lexan is the way to go and it's what I use in a commercial environment, but for home use, you are going to be much better off with plexi as it's much more scratch resistant.
if you do decide to go with lexan, DO NOT wipe it with paper towel and DO NOT wipe it dry. (use some kind of microfiber cloth and glass cleaner.)
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Acrylic and Lexan are two sides of the same coin. Lexan may be stronger but is easier to scratch. And acrylic is more like glass. Not very strong and not as easy to scratch. Since the application we need has to lend itself more to glass I would go with acrylic. It's very easy to work with. I even made a small sculpture in college out of it. Easy to cut, sand, and mold into certain shapes. It is more expensive but in the end you are paying for quality.
As for the samples you asked for earlier in an email here (http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/samples/SAMPLE-ACRYBRONZE-GRAY) they are.
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For the monitor I would recommend a graylite 31 glass. You won't be disappointed.
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Check out this thread http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119165.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119165.0.html) for tips on how to work with various plastics.