Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Driving & Racing Cabinets => Topic started by: Boomslang on March 31, 2015, 03:32:39 am
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Ive seen a few get near perfect cutouts or used mdf/ply and was wondering how you get the shape of the wheel for making such a cutout
Thanks!
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I prefer to create an adapter and mount the base inside the cabinet and connect it to the back of the shaft from the arcade wheel, then relocate the buttons. Doing a dash cut and fit usually looks poo in my opinion. If you have some good examples then flick them up as I haven't seen any
Cheers
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yes while I agree it looks better it is too much work for what im after. I had a brief look but this one was pretty nifty looking I thought. Im definitely not going down the route on making a longer shaft etc
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,131911.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,131911.0.html)
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get some cheap foam board
cut out the rough shape, then start cutting out smaller pieces until you get it to where you have less than a quarter inch gap
hold the foam board against the wheel
use a pencil to trace around the wheel housing which will mark all the high spots
trim the high spots
repeat until perfect
use foamboard as template to trace the outline onto wood
pretty much this
http://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/how-to-scribe-for-a-perfect-fit/view-all (http://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/how-to-scribe-for-a-perfect-fit/view-all)
or
get the mdf dashboard close, but oversized
tightly wrap the wheel in plastic
slap bondo in the gaps
sand, sand, sand
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Measure 360 times, cut once.
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I used birchwood and an exacto knife back when i have my huge MOMO wheel. Its a very thin wood that make it easy to get a clean cut.
Sadly this is the best picture i could find so it was long ago. You can see the outline of the birchwood under the vinyl. I have since upgrade by extending the shaft of my new wheel and hiding the body
(http://i.imgur.com/AaSpbsA.jpg)
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I covered my wheel with cling wrap, then paper machete the base to form a 3D shape. Then when its dry and hardened. I trimmed it with scissors to the right depth I needed. Then placed the model onto the plastic dash panel I was cutting and with a marker pen drew the inside template shape. cut the hole and it was pretty close to spot on.
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One of these things helps...
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-6-Inch-Contour-Duplication/dp/B00004T7RA (http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-6-Inch-Contour-Duplication/dp/B00004T7RA)
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41115KJ9JBL.jpg)
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One of these things helps...
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-6-Inch-Contour-Duplication/dp/B00004T7RA (http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-6-Inch-Contour-Duplication/dp/B00004T7RA)
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41115KJ9JBL.jpg)
Had no idea what those were called or how cheap they were.
I'll definitely be ordering a little larger one.
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Took some creative googling to find it, because I couldn't remember what they were called either. :P
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One of these things helps...
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-6-Inch-Contour-Duplication/dp/B00004T7RA (http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-6-Inch-Contour-Duplication/dp/B00004T7RA)
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41115KJ9JBL.jpg)
I think they are in the same aisle as the levels, squares and tape measures at Menards.
Had no idea what those were called or how cheap they were.
I'll definitely be ordering a little larger one.