Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Arcade Collecting => Restorations & repair => Topic started by: otsep on March 05, 2015, 03:53:12 pm
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I'm working on a Lethal Enforcer cab and it's PSU is blown.
Should I use a standard arcade power supply knowing the outputs from the old one or try and keep it original and do a repair?
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Upgrade the PSU.
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Upgrade the PSU.
So just buy a new one from Suzo Happ?
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Doesn't matter really where you buy it from, Suzo Happ, Jammaboards, Paradise arcade, even divemaster127 (http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?pg=cat&ref=Power+Supplies)has a bunch of PSU's in stock.
Just as long as you grab one that has +5v, 12v, and -5v since your board requires all three.
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Doesn't matter really where you buy it from, Suzo Happ, Jammaboards, Paradise arcade, even divemaster127 (http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?pg=cat&ref=Power+Supplies)has a bunch of PSU's in stock.
Just as long as you grab one that has +5v, 12v, and -5v since your board requires all three.
I was thinking about using a standard arcade power supply, but the lure of an easy plug-n-play is strong.
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So I replaced the power supply and I heard an arcing noise.
I noticed that the cart board is arcing from what I believe is the flyback wire. It seems this wire is cracked further down the line.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8704/16653539269_628022d99b_c.jpg)
Can I repair this?
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holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- u did not see that brunt and black wire ?
orange across /yellow/black peeling out ?
u did not note 3/4's of that wire is exposed ?
:note: the heat sink is a ground...
ed
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holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- u did not see that brunt and black wire ?
orange across /yellow/black peeling out ?
u did not note 3/4's of that wire is exposed ?
:note: the heat sink is a ground...
ed
I heard the arc and looked for it and noted what I saw. I've never worked on this cab before and I'm looking for guidance. There is still a lot of crud on the wiring I'm trying to clean out and I'm not exactly sure where you see the burn as I may have thought it's crud build up.
On the higher res photo, it looks like crud.
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I was able to fiddle around with it a little more and definitely identified the issue.
The JAMMA PCB appears to be in good shape.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8697/16709764258_486117d48b_c.jpg)
Looked at the ISO Board? for any burns, etc and it looks clean.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8701/16275027424_51ee08055b_c.jpg)
After a closer examination which involved partially pulling out the board, none of the previously recommended wire issues existed.
holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- u did not see that brunt and black wire ?
orange across /yellow/black peeling out ?
u did not note 3/4's of that wire is exposed ?
As I originally thought, the flyback transformer is bad. The unit is shorting at the top of the flyback where the anode wire attaches.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7620/16277422893_73a5a9252d_c.jpg)
I looked on SuzoHapp (http://na.suzohapp.com/parts/arcade_parts/konami_usa/lethal_enforcer/) and could not find the part description or number. Does anyone have any experience with this type of machine? Is there a comparable model I might be able to use parts from?
When I worked in a repair shop 20 years ago, we never replaced these parts, just ordered a new board.
Any insight would be appreciated.
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It is probably easier to replace the whole chassie board, than finding and replacing just the fly back. But that is just how I would do.
By the way, you should be happy having a Lethal Enforcers board with a good sound circuit, since they are known for dying...
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What monitor is it?
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What monitor is it?
It looks like a standard CRT to me. Is the a specific place I can pull an identifier.
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Any stickers on the tube or chassis mount? There should be something there that says what it is. Or perhaps within the manual?
There is no such things as a "Standard CRT". There are quite a few different CRT's out there, with different features like mid-res/high-res support, sync polarity, etc., that require different specific parts. There are no parts that are standard between all CRT's...
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I should have said "regular". As in nothing noticed that was unusual or out of the ordinary. I'll see what kind of markings I can find when I get home.
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It appears to be a Polo CRT according to the manual. I'm looking for a replacement chassis now.
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So I found this fairly close to the house.
http://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/ele/4878682035.html (http://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/ele/4878682035.html)
Assuming it's working, I should be able to use the CRT in the Lethal cab, right?
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Let me elaborate. I'm hoping to determine what, if any, feature is a must have on the crt for the cab. I've googled around and haven't been able to locate any good info. Aside from verifying that it turns on, any pointers would be appreciated.
This is a 1.5 hour drive for me and I want to be sure the gas, tolls & time are not wasted.
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Send your chassis to Arcadecup.com and save half the cost and all of the gas.
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Send your chassis to Arcadecup.com and save half the cost and all of the gas.
Sigh. You're right, yotsuya. I was hoping my first cab find would be more fun, but I'll probably just end up sending it off.
Before I do, I'm going to pull the board and make sure everything is working.
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Happy to report that the cab is working! :woot
Final tally
- Cleaned inside & out
- Replaced the power supply
- Replaced CRT
- Rewiring (Bypassed lockout switches, etc)
My only complaint is the board test sound is REALLY loud. :o Scares the crap out the guy's dog every time. :scared
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7662/17125306868_6d98cfa13a_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7692/17311253622_0abcb505d8_c.jpg)
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Sweet! Well done and enjoy your game :applaud:
By the way, Killer Instinct has a "need to change your pants" boot sound as well ;)