Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Driving & Racing Cabinets => Topic started by: Le Chuck on February 01, 2015, 08:22:28 pm
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Got a wild hair up ---my bottom---. $350 later and I'm the proud owner of not one but two Daytona USA cabs.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=323281;image)
A few things. These bastages are heavy. Holy smokes, glad I borrowed a trailer with a ramp. Picked them up about 90min from my house. #1 unit works, #2 unit gets power to the monitor but not to the boards. According to the seller if you swap the game drives the #2 plays fine in the #1 cab so that pretty much narrows it down to something that should be relatively fixable. Don't know my way around these so I'm taking it slow. Slight burn in on the #1 monitor. Some crackling in the speakers. Both are filthy.
So here's what I'm thinking, I would like to get #2 working, get them playing separately, and sell one of them.
The one I keep I want to keep it playing Daytona USA but install a second computer on a switcher and be able to flip it between Daytona USA and a pc based mame rig. Figure I'll need an arcadevga card and some other stuff. I already have an ultimarc uhid not doing anything but collecting dust so that could be a help. Didn't realize how tight space is on these things, I'll probably have to do a custom coin door unit and house the other computer and switcher in there.
Given that this is my first racer(s) is something like that even possible/doable? The cabs themselves need a lot of love, corners broken off, artwork borked, and if I split up the pair completely missing from a side of each. I've got some ideas on custom artwork but the one I sell I'll probably just soulart some stock work and get it up to snuff so I can hopefully recoup my buying cost and maybe even make enough to cover the renos.
My timeline is long on this one, I've got to get some Space Base stuff in the mail to IDS and make a hard decision on refurbing a SW Cab or keeping the Starfighter build. Not going to have both laying around.
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Welcome to the Racers Club. :cheers:
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Those are spose to be a set arnt they? , Like race your friend on the same game kinda thing (I may be mistaken however) Regardless should you ever want to sell those somebody may want to put them back into the wild. Seriously reconsider trashing them for the Mame....Awesome score BTW, Jennifer is soo very jealous. ;)
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Those are spose to be a set arnt they? , Like race your friend on the same game kinda thing (I may be mistaken however) Regardless should you ever want to sell those somebody may want to put them back into the wild. Seriously reconsider trashing them for the Mame....Awesome score BTW, Jennifer is soo very jealous. ;)
You can link up to 8, but these were a matched set tho yes. I have the enormous marquee to prove it. I'm not trashing for Mame, if I do mame it will be a redundant system that doesn't impact the original play. There will be some extra wiring going through a switching hub but nothing that isn't easily undone - that's providing that's even possible. Should be, seems simple enough, it's just a computer.
To that end, is it a crime against humanity to split them up? I will very much likely split them up no matter the answer, while fun to play against someone I don't think it's necessary. Were these ever out in the wild as a single unit? The game menu has a stand alone setting and I know the stand-up versions were onesies.
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I wouldn't think it to be a sin, I have like 2 of everything, (not matched games like that) but a set of the same games. to me its like there sisters that could go there separate ways, but why? Their happy just being together....And if one breaks down Well then there's always the parts machine thing.
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Fix 'em up, then flip the other. You have a good plan.
If it will hold up, I say to take the outsides of both off (clone/copy the side), make one complete-ish unit, sell that one (include the monitor with the burn in.) On your new bare sided unit, do your custom art on your cloned/copied side pieces. Have fun. What a fantastic conundrum to have!
On a side note, can you network these in an emulator?
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I'd see what 3D emulators the ArcadeVGA can handle before going too far down that path.
A driving cab that only runs MAME is a waste.
Model 2 is a prerequisite. I'm sure the ArcadeVGA can handle that.
But if it can't handle Supermodel, you're giving up Scud Race and Daytona 2.
If it can't handle Demul (modern versions require directx11), then no Crazy Taxi.
I guess you could still run the PC version.
On a side note, can you network these in an emulator?
Read the model 2 setup guide stickied at the top of this forum.
SailorSat also has a version of MAME that supports networking Virtua Racing.
and then there's this: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,133283.msg1371917.html#msg1371917 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,133283.msg1371917.html#msg1371917)
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To that end, is it a crime against humanity to split them up? I will very much likely split them up no matter the answer, while fun to play against someone I don't think it's necessary. Were these ever out in the wild as a single unit? The game menu has a stand alone setting and I know the stand-up versions were onesies.
A big reason my new driving cabs were never completed is that I had to buy two of everything and make everything twice.
If it had only been one, I'd have a new driving cab to play.
I see no issue with splitting them up.
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I'd see what 3D emulators the ArcadeVGA can handle before going too far down that path.
A driving cab that only runs MAME is a waste.
Model 2 is a prerequisite. I'm sure the ArcadeVGA can handle that.
But if it can't handle Supermodel, you're giving up Scud Race and Daytona 2.
If it can't handle Demul (modern versions require directx11), then no Crazy Taxi.
I guess you could still run the PC version.
Agreed on MAME being a waste if it's only that. This brings up a great point tho, has anyone run multiple graphics cards? In other words do I gain by going from a high end 3-D graphics card through an arcade VGA to get me down to the right refresh rate? Or do I just introduce all kinds of lag and other issues.
Would it be easier to change the monitor and introduce a 24khz to vga adapter between the Sega hardware and the monitor?
Also, as I've been cruising pictures of these cabs it seems there are all kinds of variations out there. White sides, orange seats, red seats, blue seats, orange t-molding, plastic raised relief sides with no t-molding (very sharp). Built in marquees on single units, bolt on marquees, no marquees. It pretty much runs the gamut. I'm thinking of getting one "passable" and sending it on it's merry way but on the keeper I want to add some color - those orange backed seats are sharp. Sides might get a facelift too but I'm very partial to that orange and the original art.
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That game is still fun and I still see people playing them. Not bad, Sega.
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That game is still fun and I still see people playing them. Not bad, Sega.
It's stupid hard when compared with some of midway's racers and that rubber band AI of theirs. This game will leave you in the dust if you don't keep up. I also like the fact that you can switch it over to endurance mode and run 80 laps of turning left if you feel like it, or hold down a button and drop into time trial mode and run the tracks solo.
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Do you have any vacation time? If you could get that squared away before Daytona 500, someone will buy it. I've met a few nascar fans, they come in all stripes, but if you can catch the guy that is decked out in the nascar jacket, he is your mark.
Do the side art in his/her favorite racers color scheme. Profit
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Here's your theme, bro. You're welcome.
(http://zackhunt.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Will_Ferrell_in_Talladega_Nights-_The_Ballad_of_Ricky_Bobby_Wallpaper_1_1280.jpg)
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**(Giggle, Snort).... That's whats missing here L/Chuck a little SHAKE AND BAKE!!!
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i want it, can you deliver to Delaware?
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i want it, can you deliver to Delaware?
Is that near Seattle?
Here's your theme, bro. You're welcome.
(http://zackhunt.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Will_Ferrell_in_Talladega_Nights-_The_Ballad_of_Ricky_Bobby_Wallpaper_1_1280.jpg)
Heh, that's awesome. I would totally sticker bomb the cab and put a logo right on the screen. Also need to hack the rom for the cougar car. That would be outstanding.
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i want it, can you deliver to Delaware?
Is that near Seattle?
The guy who does the funny noises for the police academy movies is buried near my house.
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If one was to mod those gauges with real ones, the interaction would interest me.... First, the physical installation, is it possible on that Cp?....most likely tach just 0-9k from pedal, or do you think one could hack the screen signal and get it to drop when stomping on the brake?.... IE: linking OEM to Mame, and using Mame settings to control gauges?
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If one was to mod those gauges with real ones, the interaction would interest me.... First, the physical installation, is it possible on that Cp?....most likely tach just 0-9k from pedal, or do you think one could hack the screen signal and get it to drop when stomping on the brake?.... IE: linking OEM to Mame, and using Mame settings to control gauges?
Behind those gauges is very, very thick steel plate. Behind the steel plate is all the force feedback stuff.
It's not very feasible.
There's a thread in this forum about using real gauges. I don't think it got anywhere as far as emulated games go.
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Got a wild hair up ---my bottom---. $350 later and I'm the proud owner of not one but two Daytona USA cabs.
Wow dude, you got yourself an absolute bargain there. Good job :cheers:
On a side note, can you network these in an emulator?
Read the model 2 setup guide stickied at the top of this forum.
SailorSat also has a version of MAME that supports networking Virtua Racing.
and then there's this: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,133283.msg1371917.html#msg1371917 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,133283.msg1371917.html#msg1371917)
There was a networkable version of Supermodel that was being developed by Nik Henson (Bart's Supermodel co-author). Sadly it never got uploaded to the public SVN or released as a compiled build as Nik stopped posting over at the Supermodel forum and seemingly vanished. Bart tried contacting him a few times but never heard back - hope you're OK Nik!
(http://www.supermodel3.com/Images/WIP/04012013_Dayto2PE_2_Small.jpg)
(http://www.supermodel3.com/Images/WIP/04012013_Dayto2PE_6_Small.jpg)
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$350 for a pair is an outrageously good deal. Grats! :applaud:
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Was able to spend a few hours trouble shooting tonight... after working on my drifting for about half an hour ;)
Okay, so I've made some good progress towards figuring out what is wrong. Disclaimer: If I would rip the cabs all the way down and just work the boards I'd probably have this done right now but I'm trying not to pull everything out if I can avoid it and it doesn't look like I can. Also - I broke my multimeter several weeks ago and haven't replaced it yet. Heh.
Unit one functions normally.
Unit 2 gets power to speakers and monitor.
Unit 2 gets no power past the power supply. According to guy I bought it from boards from unit 2 work in unit 1.
I assume he's a straight shooter.
I separate the wiring harness that is linking unit 2 to unit 1 and wire a power cord to unit 2.
I notice that unit 2's power supply doesn't seem to be getting power at all. Same behavior as when I first plugged it in.
Check bank of fuses between powersupply and transformer - none popped.
Take unit 1's power supply and wire into unit 2. No dice, power supply won't stay on longer than a second and I begin to smell that magic smoke we all fear. Kill power.
Put U1 powersupply back in U1. Still works. Yay.
Put U2 powersupply in U1. That works. Yay.
At this point logic seems to tell me that:
1) I need to replace that multi-meter before going further
2) Something is clearly amiss.
Went back out and ran separate wall power directly to the power supply, it is still tripping and none of the boards show power at all, it trips right away. Tomorrow I'll pull the boards and see what's going on. I thought it was between the power supply and the wall but I must have overlooked something. It would be better if I knew what I was doing but I'm very unfamiliar with this machine and oh my there sure are a lot of boards in there ::)
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If I remember correctly there is one large transformer in there which gets fed from unit 1, from that transformer one 110V line runs to the nanao monitor, another 110V line goes to some standard AC/DC Power Supply, which feeds the 12V, 5V etc. lines the game boards use.
I suspect the line going from the transformer to the power supply is broken/shorted somewhere
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Sounds like there is a short in U2 (somewhere other than the boards).
If the boards work when swapped, the good part is that both the power supply and boards are good in both units. :applaud:
Not sure if relevant, but the force feedback motor in those is also 110v.
Maybe yank all the fuses and test each circuit one by one.
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So I'm down to 1 Daytona USA, put the best parts of the two together and moved the other unit via craiglist and recouped much of my original investment so yeah, basically a cab for free. Just didn't have room for both. Now, I've been looking at upgrade kits, and I think I'm going to order the Daytona GTX kit, I found a dealer in Australia that can do $70 shipped, that's a sight better than the $500 it went for in 2004 lol, anyway, anybody ever played Daytona GTX, I haven't but it sounds like it adds a lot of features that could be fun and add to the replay.
Also, I'm still doing searches to see how to reskin the cars, I know its possible in PC but surely there must be some way to do it on the boards. I want a Ricky Bobby car!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThtifJJ7-hQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThtifJJ7-hQ)