Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: oddotter on January 25, 2015, 02:10:18 am
-
I've been wanting to print something in 3D from one of those online services for a while now, so I decided to start with a battop handle for a ultrastik 360. This is a work in progress, so I may end up working through a few issues.
Design:
(http://infochameleon.com/model.jpg)
The design I'm going for is to have the handle 3D printed in 3 different parts, with one of the parts being an optional "plug" to fill up the interior of the handle if it feels too light. Basically, you insert a hex nut into the base of the handle that will screw onto the joystick. The cap has a recess for the button hardware. Once the wires are attached to the button and the LED, you attach the cap onto the base. I still need to bore a hole down the center of the joystick shaft to run the wires, and I'll need a slip ring at the base to keep the wires from twisting up.
Most of my design is based around these posts:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=132356.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=132356.0)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108490.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108490.0.html)
Parts:
- M10-15.0 10mm Hex Nut
- Standard RGB LED
- Philmore Mini Push Button Switch #30-146 (The 3D model is designed specifically for this model of pushbutton)
(http://infochameleon.com/pushbutton.jpg)
Materials:
I wanted to print the handle in a type of plastic (either white or transparent) where an RGB LED would make it glow. The service I am looking at (www.shapeways.com (http://www.shapeways.com)) has a few different materials that fit this bill, but they vary in price. My 3D model in standard “strong and flexible” white plastic was around $20. The same model in white or transparent “detail” plastic was $58, and in “frosted detail” was $49. Since this is my first 3D print, I figured I’d go with the “strong and flexible” white. My only problem now is waiting to see how well the LED lights it up.
Here's a link to the item on Shapeways if you want to print it yourself: http://shpws.me/Dq4J (http://shpws.me/Dq4J)
-
Looking forward to seeing how these turn out. I would love to have LED bat tops on my U360's to match my buttons. The only negative with these 3D printed ones might be the cost. Here's another alternative approach that I've thought about trying which might be more affordable:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/141892/led-battop (http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/141892/led-battop)
-
I still need to bore a hole down the center of the joystick shaft to run the wires, and I'll need a slip ring at the base to keep the wires from twisting up.
Just a thought....
Has anyone actually tried to free float the grip and lock the shaft?
-
Looking forward to seeing how these turn out. I would love to have LED bat tops on my U360's to match my buttons. The only negative with these 3D printed ones might be the cost. Here's another alternative approach that I've thought about trying which might be more affordable:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/141892/led-battop (http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/141892/led-battop)
I saw this one as well, but I wasn't sure how I'd get the button attached if I did it this way.
On a different note, I started thinking about the fact that some people might want to get the cap and base printed in different materials, like a stainless steel cap with a white plastic base. I've uploaded the separate models to Shapeways here:
cap - http://shpws.me/DwRg (http://shpws.me/DwRg)
base - http://shpws.me/DwRI (http://shpws.me/DwRI)
-
Just an update on the 3D print. The white material did let the LED shine through pretty well. My model was flawed though, I mis-measured the hex nut hole, so I took it off the Shapeways site.
The major problem, however, is that the material tends to collect grime, and get dirty very quickly.
-
Could you print up a Berzerk handle replica with that?