Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: adidas1984x on October 04, 2014, 08:44:51 pm
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I have my dk cabinet game plays but no video see the link for details.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9AdG2ToLYY&feature=gp-n-y&google_comment_id=z124s5w5pnrxut01c23pzf5acurmfn5pn04 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9AdG2ToLYY&feature=gp-n-y&google_comment_id=z124s5w5pnrxut01c23pzf5acurmfn5pn04)
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You've got neckglow, but no picture.
Turn all the lights off, and see if you can see ANYTHING on the screen AT ALL.
If you can see SOMETHING, turn up the "screen" control on the flyback. Its next to the focus setting.
Go slow with it, and see if the screen changes AT ALL.
Report back your findings.
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in the dark no picture with adjusting the flyback nothing at all
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Dead flyback? Can anyone else chime in?
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u have neck glow = heater's
but u get no screen?
open screen control on the flyback >nice catch sayer<,
if u know how to measure dc volt's?,on the neck board u will find a 160-200 volt cap
about 47mf,measure from it's plus to ground
expect about 150 volt's dc
chk there first
ed
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no . there is no neck glow and no picture
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no neck gloe = no high volt's,time to nail down what chassic it is
and get out a meter
ed
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I thought you said in the video that you did have neckglow.
Now that we know you have a completely dead tube, diagnosis will be completely different than if you did have neckglow.
First off, do as ed says. If anyone knows the fix, its him.
I'd also start with some very basics.
#1: Do you have 100VAC reaching the power input on the monitor?
#2: With the power off, pop the fuse and check it for continuity. Some monitors will still measure as a good fuse if you measure it in the monitor due to other circuitry in the system. Always pop the fuse (or at least lift one side) and measure it with your meter.
#3: Make sure all of your connections are good an solid, especially the single-pin connectors on the neckboard.
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ok checked voltage plug on board and got the 120 volts. also checked fuse is good. rechecked all connections and are tight and in place.
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As already said, check the high voltage but just curious, what monitor is in the machine.
Doesn't look to be the usual Sanyo 20ez
Edit: never mind, I rewatched. Its a bestech.
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Typically if u have no. Neck glow, you won't have the static charge buildup uless the xray protection is kicking in and shutting down the monitor.
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any ideas what to look for next?
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ok as i do not have any ppw on this.? strange i know
is it a smps style or dose it requre an iso tran's ?
if smps then we start there
if iso tran's then we start at the main regulator
ed
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There's always the possibility of cold solder joints though this monitor is a little newer than the typical 30 year old monitors.
You're positive its getting static builup?
You may need to do some poking around with a meter. You may wanna throw that monitor on a bench for easier reach and workspace.
The schematic can be found here http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals/manuals_monitors.php (http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals/manuals_monitors.php)
Its listed as Bestech 13c19c. There are voltages listed at different points that you can meter out.
And check for cold solder joints.
One test I always do on larger components that tend to develop bad solder joints (large caps, flyback,etc. ):
With the monitor plugged in and powered, I take something plastic and poke thise parts. It sounds silly but it works.
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ok as i do not have any p
pw on this.? strange i know
is it a smps style or dose it requre an iso tran's ?
if smps then we start there
if iso tran's then we start at the main regulator
ed
This is a smps monitor without iso xformer
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thk u mgb
that makes life easier
on the output side of the smps
u will find serveral cap's
u measure these from the + side to ground
what u are looking for is about 140-160 volt's dc
on 1 of them
on another should read about 12volt's
and u could have a 22 volt 1 there also
wish i had the print
ed
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Does this monitor require a isolation transformer because there is not one in the cabinet?
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Does this monitor require a isolation transformer because there is not one in the cabinet?
No that monitor does not.
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you can usually easily tell if you need isolation by the following (not all inclusive there are exceptions to the rule of course)
start at the AC input and follow it along visually... input....fuse....degauss... big cap... then what...
If the chassis is regulated (IE typically with a big IC or TO-3 on a heatsink (like an STR3130)) it requires isolation. http://lamson.dyndns.org/LAMSON%20ALL%20PARTS%20PICTURE/STR%20SANKEN%20IC/page_02.htm (http://lamson.dyndns.org/LAMSON%20ALL%20PARTS%20PICTURE/STR%20SANKEN%20IC/page_02.htm)
if it's got a big yellow transformer on the output side and small switching mosfets it's SMPS (Switch Mode Power Supply) and doesn't require isolation.
(http://i.imgur.com/0qvQgFX.jpg) SMPS.
cut the power to everything else and just power the monitor. Can you hear a clicking or ticking sound?
if yes - shorted SMPS on output side... check caps to right of yellow transformer and HOT for short
if no - SMPS dead... check everything south of the yellow transformer.