Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Richardgregory on October 02, 2014, 06:09:34 pm
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I'm helping another friend paint his cab, well after applying primer and then 2 coats of paint, he isn't happy with the paint. Moving forward I was planning on using 320 grit sandpaper with a light sanding and then using the new paint that he wants (different brand and color). The new color will be darker thankfully.
Should I have to wait for the old paint to cure before the light sanding, or would it be okay just to sand it as is. It was painted on Wed.
Thoughts?
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Did you sand the primer and previous two coats? If so then I'd not even bother sanding again and just paint right over.
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There was no sanding. I guess I will be sanding then. Probably a good idea as there are some lap marks. Nothing major though.
Did you sand the primer and previous two coats? If so then I'd not even bother sanding again and just paint right over.
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So are you just extra hands on his project or did you foot the bill on the paint?
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He hates painting and after this even more. I'm just helping out....maybe I should apply primer on top and redo with the new paint.
So are you just extra hands on his project or did you foot the bill on the paint?
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You should ALWAYS sand in between coats. I use 220 grit and it always looks great afterwards.
Also, use a foam Roller to apply the paint. I use a smaller 6" foam roller, even on my bigger cabinets. Use a small brush on tight spots where the roller can't reach first, then use the roller to cover the rest.
Always worked for me (and I used Satin finish).
D
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What color are you using?
Red is next to impossible to get even if you use a white primer.
If painting red, use a dark primer.
I didn't learn this until after painting my own cab.
It probably took a half dozen coats to get the color even and there is still one spot that doesn't look right from certain angles.
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Painting satin black. I guess I'm up for the same fate as red? 6 coats it took for red??!
I traditionally use high density foam but today when I went to pick up the paint the guy said no!! Use a regular roller fora smooth finish. Huh?
What did you use?
What color are you using?
Red is next to impossible to get even if you use a white primer.
If painting red, use a dark primer.
I didn't learn this until after painting my own cab.
It probably took a half dozen coats to get the color even and there is still one spot that doesn't look right from certain angles.
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Painting satin black. I guess I'm up for the same fate as red? 6 coats it took for red??!
I traditionally use high density foam but today when I went to pick up the paint the guy said no!! Use a regular roller fora smooth finish. Huh?
What did you use?
I don't know exactly how many coats it took. 6 is a guestimate. I just kept going back over it again and again.
The black parts didn't require so many.
I used small foam rollers meant for cabinets and doors. Got them at Lowes.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_fThGMLm3K44/TVCzLIbcBNI/AAAAAAAAAWw/j3oG5CJwV7c/s320/011.JPG)
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I would sand to 220, not 320. 320 will not do much other than smooth out very minor imperfections. I assume that you are dealing with latex, in which case it won't fully cure for 3-6 weeks, so you are good to add another coat on top without sanding, at least as far as making it stick. I would only sand if the finish isn't smooth enough for your tastes, because the next coats will only emphasize the flaws.
There is some special sandpaper out there that is made for sanding latex paint, so when it starts to clog, which it will immediately, you can just flick it and the clogs will flake off the sandpaper. Most sandpapers will just be ruined after a little sanding on uncured latex paint. Also be super careful trying to sand latex that isn't fully cured, it will be soft enough to gouge very easily, and that will show through on the final coat.
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Thanks for all the tips folks...appreciate it :)
I saw the cab today...there are spots on the cab that have some texture on them - like an orange peel. I suspect the roller was dry when it touched the area and it lifted the paint.
I am hoping then to use a 220 grit to smooth out these bumps....there are a few if these. I hope this works. Let me know if I should do something different. I plan to start next week.
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One other note (if you are curious). The reason you should not use a normal roller is because sometimes the fibers from the roller stick to the paint and dry into them. They are a pain to sand out. Foam is the way to go.
D
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If you sand on it and your paper gums up its so not dry enough, and it will need more dry time.... I would be more concerned with the different kinds of paint (unless they are both water based) compatibility issues could rear its ugly head.... If It was mine Jennifer would go get a can of stripper, a new putty knife and just start over from the base.
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Rustoleum Satin Black is my favorite paint by far! Trick is to not use too much. If too much is applied at once, it makes a nasty orange-peel like texture that must be sanded out and repainted.
On large surfaces, I prime, sand, then apply satin black with a foam roller...then use rattle cans of satin black to blend out any lap marks and imperfections. With enough curing time, it will harden and make a very durable finish.