Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Kadows on September 18, 2014, 03:04:58 pm
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Hi!
I've been lurking on these forums for a while and today I got a reason to start a thread!
My name is Fredrik and I live in Sweden. I've always wanted a Donkey Kong arcade cabinet. Its my favorite game ever and I think the cabinet is the most beautiful thing ever. Unfortunately its seems impossible to get your hands on one in Sweden. For that reason I've always talked about building my own MAME version. Apparently my best friend got tired of my talking about it because today he gave me a gift. A original Donkey Kong stick that the bought on Ebay and said "-Now you HAVE to build the rest.". So I guess I just have to get going!
(http://i.imgur.com/RSaE7BYl.jpg)
I have done a lot of research on this for a while but I do have some questions. My step-dad is a carpenter so I have access so all the tools imaginable including a router for the t-molding. I want to get this as accurate as possible without going crazy. For one thing I have never seen a real one so I will never know if its perfect.
This is not a project I plan on finishing anytime soon, I will let it take its time. I scan Ebay everyday for parts like marquee, control panel and monitor bezel. It would be fun to have some original parts.
So here is the question I have right know:
1. What material to use. I know a lot of people use MDF but If I understand correctly the original was made of plywood. Was is the reason not to use plywood?
2. Plans. I tried downloading the plans from Jakobud but one of the files is corrupted. The Donkey Kong Jr. works great though, they are the same are they not?
3. Monitor. Getting a real arcade monitor is of course impossible so what are my options. A normal LCD screen seems the simplest right, or what do you guys recommend?
4. Coin door. I've seen on some forum that there was a coin door reproduction but the links are all dead. What are you guys recommendation on this?
Sorry if my questions are obvious to some. This is a whole new world to me and I really want to learn as much as possible from you guys!
Thanks!
-Fredrik
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Dk, is a fairly simple cab in terms of construction, (your planning a dedicated right?), My first thoughts would get the system to work on the bench and then build the cab.... The pedestal bottom was made out of cheap wood, and is a big problem with those and wind up breaking when you move it then its all like tippy over (So you may want to upgrade that when you design your cab).... In regards to that ply question, They are using mdf I imagine, to more standardize the thickness to a 3/4 "T" molding (On the orig ply its a thinner thickness) so uses an odd size Molding. 9/16 or something like that.
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Dk, is a fairly simple cab in terms of construction, (your planning a dedicated right?), My first thoughts would get the system to work on the bench and then build the cab.... The pedestal bottom was made out of cheap wood, and is a big problem with those and wind up breaking when you move it then its all like tippy over (So you may want to upgrade that when you design your cab).... In regards to that ply question, They are using mdf I imagine, to more standardize the thickness to a 3/4 "T" molding (On the orig ply its a thinner thickness) so uses an odd size Molding. 9/16 or something like that.
I see. What thickness is a original Donkey Kong then? According to the Jakobud-plans its 0.625 inch if I understand it right.
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I looked at some stuff I need at MikesArcade. Found these:
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=CPODKONG (https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=CPODKONG)
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=DKCARDSET (https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=DKCARDSET)
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=DKJOYGUARD (https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=DKJOYGUARD)
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=MBRKTOPN (https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=MBRKTOPN)
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=MBEZBRKTN (https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=MBEZBRKTN)
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=PBSET-TKG (https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=PBSET-TKG)
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=BEZELDKONG (https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=BEZELDKONG)
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=MDKONG (https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=MDKONG)
Is this stuff you guys would recommend or can better be found? :)
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I'd worry about the actual cab before I got too concerned with the art. Pretty awesome your friend got you that stick though!
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I'd worry about the actual cab before I got too concerned with the art. Pretty awesome your friend got you that stick though!
Yeah, I know I'm kind of all over the place right know. I was just thinking since I've never seen an actual cab I'm real life it would help me having thinks like the marquee mount to figure out how they work. Also make sure that marquee and bezel actually fit.
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That's just it, if you buy the art and it doesn't fit, your gotta buy new art. You build the cab then scale the art to fit :)
Have you considered building a control panel to start, and then building a cab to hold the control panel?
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That's just it, if you buy the art and it doesn't fit, your gotta buy new art. You build the cab then scale the art to fit :)
Have you considered building a control panel to start, and then building a cab to hold the control panel?
I'm not sure I understand. I plan on making a Donkey Kong as close to the original as possible. The art can only be on size right?
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Lets say you build the cab, but the dimensions you used were a 1/4" off for the control panel, its just a theoretical statement, not jinxing you :)
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That's just it, if you buy the art and it doesn't fit, your gotta buy new art. You build the cab then scale the art to fit :)
Have you considered building a control panel to start, and then building a cab to hold the control panel?
I'm not sure I understand. I plan on making a Donkey Kong as close to the original as possible. The art can only be on size right?
Depends --For example you said you're going to be using an LCD instead of the original arcade monitor -- What size it winds up being may require making some adjustments to the dimensions of the cab so that it fits properly (ie. does the cabinet need to be wider than the original to fit a widescreen LCD if you can't find a proper 4:3 or 5:4 LCD in the size you want or thinned a bit to keep the proportions if using a smaller LCD) - and that also may require resizing the bezel so that the monitor cut out fits around the monitor you are using (or you might have to base the LCD you purchase on what fits the bezel which might make the build more expensive since it limits your choices) - so it really depends on how you are going to go about the build (ie. do you get the parts first and design the cabinet around that or do you build the cabinet first and then adjust the parts you use based on the dimensions of the cabinet ? ) figure either way works but you don't want to go spending $$ on parts that you wind up not using since they do not fit properly in the cabinet you wind up building.
So best to get the build plans finalized first and figure out what dimensions are needed for things like the CP - the Marquee - The Bezel - the monitor - and then look into what parts you are going to use (depending on what you have available or can find) and adjust the build plans as needed to fit those parts before actually cutting anything so you don't wind up either wasting build material or money on parts you wind up not using.
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Oh, now I feel really stupid. Never thought the screen might be that big of a problem. Didn't think of aspect ratio and such. I was just planning on taking a normal LCD moniter and turning it on its side like in this blog: https://www.google.se/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDYQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fkiwiarcade.blogspot.com%2F&ei=xZAcVMKrHYngOLqegKgG&usg=AFQjCNFX_7y-E_ijrVz-5wf0KaL9YP51aQ&sig2=bkmVp6Z845fOF0ySLXkPyw (https://www.google.se/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDYQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fkiwiarcade.blogspot.com%2F&ei=xZAcVMKrHYngOLqegKgG&usg=AFQjCNFX_7y-E_ijrVz-5wf0KaL9YP51aQ&sig2=bkmVp6Z845fOF0ySLXkPyw)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Gb1OH86Y030/T0F2ZD1EuJI/AAAAAAAAAGg/jtfLQztk9Yc/s1600/27.JPG)
Maybe that's no good idea?
Man I wish I lived in the US so I just could go on craigslist. :(
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Oh, now I feel really stupid. Never thought the screen might be that big of a problem. Didn't think of aspect ratio and such. I was just planning on taking a normal LCD moniter and turning it on its side like in this blog: https://www.google.se/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDYQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fkiwiarcade.blogspot.com%2F&ei=xZAcVMKrHYngOLqegKgG&usg=AFQjCNFX_7y-E_ijrVz-5wf0KaL9YP51aQ&sig2=bkmVp6Z845fOF0ySLXkPyw (https://www.google.se/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDYQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fkiwiarcade.blogspot.com%2F&ei=xZAcVMKrHYngOLqegKgG&usg=AFQjCNFX_7y-E_ijrVz-5wf0KaL9YP51aQ&sig2=bkmVp6Z845fOF0ySLXkPyw)
Maybe that's no good idea?
Man I wish I lived in the US so I just could go on craigslist. :(
It's not really a problem you just have to account for it in your design and possibly make some adjustments to the artwork as a result which is the main thing Malenko was describing -- unless you are using original parts with the exact dimensions then you might need to make a few adjustments to the build which isn't a problem as long as you do it before cutting andd building and buying everything !
And with the DK build it is not as much of a concern since the monitor is backed away from the bezel rather than right at the bezel area so you can adjust the monitor position if needed by moving it backward or forward or up\down unlike some builds where the screen is right behind the bezel so that the cut out for the monitor needs to be more precise (ie. like a cocktail cabinet)
It's just a few things to think about when designing and building -- for example when I built my bartop I forgot to account for the size of the PSU I was using with a full size AT MOBO and wound up having to make a cut out on the back panel in order to get it to fit since when I scaled down the plans I was using I forgot it would change the inside dimensions luckily with a slight adjustment it fit (Barely) or I would have had to recut the sides to make it a bit deeper. so better to think of these type things before cutting to avoid waste.
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc189/JDFanning_bucket/PICT0147_zpsb42df31b.jpg)
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Good luck with the build.
I think the plans will be same as the jr cab but i'm pretty sure i've got the dk schematics on a computer somewhere from when i built my table top. If you want them i'll have a look and upload if i've still got them.
If you're going for full scale i wouldn't have thought you'd have to many issues with fitment, imo its only when you start scaling things down that i can become tricky.
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Good luck with the build.
I think the plans will be same as the jr cab but i'm pretty sure i've got the dk schematics on a computer somewhere from when i built my table top. If you want them i'll have a look and upload if i've still got them.
If you're going for full scale i wouldn't have thought you'd have to many issues with fitment, imo its only when you start scaling things down that i can become tricky.
That would be great, if you got the files. Thank you.
And yes, that was my belief going into this too. If a full size cabinet fits a 20" monitor is should fit a flat screen...
I love all the input though, really got me thinking in a different way!
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For the love of God, please don't use a skinny widescreen monitor rotated like that.
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For the love of God, please don't use a skinny widescreen monitor rotated like that.
What should I use then? :)
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Use a standard 4:3 screen. LCD or CRT, just not a widescreen
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Use a standard 4:3 screen. LCD or CRT, just not a widescreen
Did the original have a 4:3?
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Yep. I think it was a 19" 4:3 turned sideways.
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For the love of God, please don't use a skinny widescreen monitor rotated like that.
What should I use then? :)
A 4:3 aspect monitor like the 19" Dell 1908FP or 20" Dell 2001FP would work well as it keeps the original 3:4 aspect ratio when mounted vertical ! Here's a shot of it on my 1908FP that I picked up from arrowdirect.com for $32 when they had the 50% off sale code going the other week !
( Ignore the light reflections from the cheap Camera pic )
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc189/JDFanning_bucket/dk1_zpsc52e9dfe.png)
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For the love of God, please don't use a skinny widescreen monitor rotated like that.
What should I use then? :)
A 4:3 aspect monitor like the 19" Dell 1908FP or 20" Dell 2001FP would work well as it keeps the original 3:4 aspect ratio when mounted vertical ! Here's a shot of it on my 1908FP that I picked up from arrowdirect.com for $32 when they had the 50% off sale code going the other week !
( Ignore the light reflections from the cheap Camera pic )
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc189/JDFanning_bucket/dk1_zpsc52e9dfe.png)
Oh, that looks really good. There is actually a Dell 2001FP on Ebay right now that ships to Sweden. Maybe I should grab it, you cant have to many computer monitors!
Thanks for the tip!
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Oh, that looks really good. There is actually a Dell 2001FP on Ebay right now that ships to Sweden. Maybe I should grab it, you cant have to many computer monitors!
Thanks for the tip!
The 2001FP is a great monitor (1600x1200 resolution on an 16ms IPS panel - so great color and viewing angles ) I also purchased one of them during the same sale for $38 -- One thing if buying it check to see if it comes with the AC adapter (the 2001FP uses a 20V 4.5Amp AC adapter - since it also has the 4 USB ports it requires a bit of power ) And the one I ordered didn't come with it so I wound up spending $6.99 for a used one on Ebay and it took an extra week to get it ! (since you're in Sweden it might be more expensive to find one - others were listed for $12 -$30 and not sure if the cheaper ones ship to Sweden) -- So just keep it in mind if you do get the one !
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maybe get mame to add some scanlines to it if u prefer that look (picture is not as bright though with scanlines):
(http://s11.postimg.org/hgb6mev4j/nnnnnn.png)
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Looks like the "slickmon" promo code is working again at arrowdirect.com -- and they have several 19 +20 inch 4:3 monitors - for example they have a 2007FP for $69.75 - $34.88 with the code so $34.87 and a flat $8.99 for shipping on monitors so about $45 total (and they list Sweden in their drop down box for shipping info) -- so you might want to look through their site and see if you find something !
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc189/JDFanning_bucket/arrowd_zps7ad4625f.png)
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Looks like the "slickmon" promo code is working again at arrowdirect.com -- and they have several 19 +20 inch 4:3 monitors - for example they have a 2007FP for $69.75 - $34.88 with the code so $34.87 and a flat $8.99 for shipping on monitors so about $45 total (and they list Sweden in their drop down box for shipping info) -- so you might want to look through their site and see if you find something !
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc189/JDFanning_bucket/arrowd_zps7ad4625f.png)
Oh, that's great! Way to go the extra mile checking for shipping to Sweden. Thank you!
So here is my new plan after all the info. Get the screen and buttons and then build a mockup of the control panel. Then get MAME running. That way I learn a bit about MAME and how the controls work and all that. Also I will be able to play Donkey Kong at home! I have looked at Kade. That should cover my needs right, getting the controls inputs to my PC. Looks really simple to use and they got a European supplier witch is great.
Again, I really appreciate all the help guys! Thanks!
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So here is my new plan after all the info. Get the screen and buttons and then build a mockup of the control panel. Then get MAME running. That way I learn a bit about MAME and how the controls work and all that. Also I will be able to play Donkey Kong at home! I have looked at Kade. That should cover my needs right, getting the controls inputs to my PC. Looks really simple to use and they got a European supplier witch is great.
Sounds like a great plan.
The only potential problem is if you fall into the trap of stopping progress once you have a playable system. :lol :embarassed:
With 20 inputs, KADE will easily cover everything you need for DK-style panel for MAME.
You may want to use Superfrog's trick of hiding admin buttons under the panel on his Nintendo Bartop (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,131566.msg1363099.html#msg1363099).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131566.0;attach=290358;image)
(http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t544/Bartop-Superfrog/Popeye%20Bartop/Popeye-Bartop-LCStudios7_zps29d695f4.png)
Scott
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So here is my new plan after all the info. Get the screen and buttons and then build a mockup of the control panel. Then get MAME running. That way I learn a bit about MAME and how the controls work and all that. Also I will be able to play Donkey Kong at home! I have looked at Kade. That should cover my needs right, getting the controls inputs to my PC. Looks really simple to use and they got a European supplier witch is great.
Sounds like a great plan.
The only potential problem is if you fall into the trap of stopping progress once you have a playable system. :lol :embarassed:
With 20 inputs, KADE will easily cover everything you need for DK-style panel for MAME.
You may want to use Superfrog's trick of hiding admin buttons under the panel on his Nintendo Bartop (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,131566.msg1363099.html#msg1363099).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131566.0;attach=290358;image)
(http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t544/Bartop-Superfrog/Popeye%20Bartop/Popeye-Bartop-LCStudios7_zps29d695f4.png)
Scott
Thanks for the tip! Looks awesome. Those bartops are amazing!
I just tried installing MAME Hyperspin. Worked great, not the same playing with a keyboard though!
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Fredrik - Welcome to the forums. My first suggestion would be to start a thread in the project announcements so that you have a greater chance of most everyone helping with you with your project.
Second. Let me answer some of the questions that you posed for us.
1. I think everyone tends to use MDF because it more readily available and easier to work with. Over here 9/16th MDF is not available but you can use something close. Like say 5/8th's. If you can find 9/16th plywood go with it. It was the original size of thickness on the sides and you can easily find what is called Nintendo Flat T molding when you go to choose your t molding.
2. If you want to build a DK cab I would stick with the DK plans. If I remember correctly DK Jr is slightly different. I have a copy of the Jakobud plans if you need them. Just PM your email and I can send them to you. Keep in mind after doing research for my FIF Jr cab (which is just a DK cab) I found that jakobud himself said that the plans he made are not exact.
3. Like everyone has stated use a 4:3 monitor. It will be easier this way instead of tracking down a true arcade monitor. I'm glad to also hear that you are going with MAME. Because if you went with an LCD monitor and got a DK PCB board you would have to also purchase all the other internal parts to the arcade and also get a certain adapter for the monitor to hook up to the PCB.
4. The coin door for me was sort of a pain but I kept on ebay, KLOV and the buy sell forum on here and eventually found one that I had to fix up a little but came out good as new.
When starting your cab I would definitely agree with Malenko and Jennifer. Collect all your internal parts to get the MAME working. You can do this at the same time as building your cab. So if you run into a road block on one issue of lets say building you can head inside and work on the internals until your issue is resolved. This also comes in handy if you have a poor weather day and you want to hide inside from the elements. ;)
I would also not worry too much about the artwork and parts until they are necessary. As Malenko suggested it would be smart to get the body built then order your artwork. You don't have to go with Mikes Arcade for the artwork so if you are a 1/4 inch off...eh sorry...or a certain mm off, you can adjust the artwork on the computer and send it off to a local printer. Which cannot, even in Sweden, be hard to find.
Let me know. I might be able to get you a high quality version of the artwork. I know if I can't someone on here will have a copy if you ask nicely. :)
In the end take your time and don't be afraid to make mistakes. I have made two cabs to date and what I mistakes I learned on my first cab I found I didn't make on my next. I also don't want to be this guy because I am not a fan of others posting their cabs in someones build thread but I want to give you the link to my FF Jr cab build. The reason I do this is because I did a lot of research on building it and it is essentially the same cab as a DK cab. It can be found here. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135095.0.html)
I also wanted to give you the links to a couple builds that helped me along the way but I some how deleted them. Its late here in Michigan so I will look in the morning when my eyes want to cooperate. Happy building Fredrik!
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In the end take your time and don't be afraid to make mistakes.
I agree with everything bailey said, and this sentence above is the most important one.
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Fredrik - Welcome to the forums. My first suggestion would be to start a thread in the project announcements so that you have a greater chance of most everyone helping with you with your project.
Second. Let me answer some of the questions that you posed for us.
1. I think everyone tends to use MDF because it more readily available and easier to work with. Over here 9/16th MDF is not available but you can use something close. Like say 5/8th's. If you can find 9/16th plywood go with it. It was the original size of thickness on the sides and you can easily find what is called Nintendo Flat T molding when you go to choose your t molding.
2. If you want to build a DK cab I would stick with the DK plans. If I remember correctly DK Jr is slightly different. I have a copy of the Jakobud plans if you need them. Just PM your email and I can send them to you. Keep in mind after doing research for my FIF Jr cab (which is just a DK cab) I found that jakobud himself said that the plans he made are not exact.
3. Like everyone has stated use a 4:3 monitor. It will be easier this way instead of tracking down a true arcade monitor. I'm glad to also hear that you are going with MAME. Because if you went with an LCD monitor and got a DK PCB board you would have to also purchase all the other internal parts to the arcade and also get a certain adapter for the monitor to hook up to the PCB.
4. The coin door for me was sort of a pain but I kept on ebay, KLOV and the buy sell forum on here and eventually found one that I had to fix up a little but came out good as new.
When starting your cab I would definitely agree with Malenko and Jennifer. Collect all your internal parts to get the MAME working. You can do this at the same time as building your cab. So if you run into a road block on one issue of lets say building you can head inside and work on the internals until your issue is resolved. This also comes in handy if you have a poor weather day and you want to hide inside from the elements. ;)
I would also not worry too much about the artwork and parts until they are necessary. As Malenko suggested it would be smart to get the body built then order your artwork. You don't have to go with Mikes Arcade for the artwork so if you are a 1/4 inch off...eh sorry...or a certain mm off, you can adjust the artwork on the computer and send it off to a local printer. Which cannot, even in Sweden, be hard to find.
Let me know. I might be able to get you a high quality version of the artwork. I know if I can't someone on here will have a copy if you ask nicely. :)
In the end take your time and don't be afraid to make mistakes. I have made two cabs to date and what I mistakes I learned on my first cab I found I didn't make on my next. I also don't want to be this guy because I am not a fan of others posting their cabs in someones build thread but I want to give you the link to my FF Jr cab build. The reason I do this is because I did a lot of research on building it and it is essentially the same cab as a DK cab. It can be found here. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135095.0.html)
I also wanted to give you the links to a couple builds that helped me along the way but I some how deleted them. Its late here in Michigan so I will look in the morning when my eyes want to cooperate. Happy building Fredrik!
Thank you for the info! I will look into the wood. It think it's possible to get 9/16 plywood here actually.
I will probably make a projects thread once I get started.
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And I highly recommend the Kade encoder. Its small and easy to configure.
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Say the word and I'll have it moved to the Project Announcements section. Once move, you may want to modify the title in your first post so that it "announces" your project properly. :)
If you do decide to go with an LCD, I highly recommend that you simply buy Crafty Mech's SLG found here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129344.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129344.0.html) It will automatically add scanlines to your games without taxing the computer. I believe it requires the use of a VGA plug however (you may need a VGA to DVI adapter for the monitor).
Good luck and welcome to the forums!
DeLuSioNaL29
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If you do decide to go with an LCD, I highly recommend that you simply buy Crafty Mech's SLG found here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129344.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129344.0.html)
Thanks DeLuSioNal. Forgot about mentioning that bad boy.
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Try to see if you can get one of these knobs. Best looking thing I've ever seen someone make (I don't get out much).
http://imgur.com/a/qmzPA (http://imgur.com/a/qmzPA)
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Try to see if you can get one of these knobs. Best looking thing I've ever seen someone make (I don't get out much).
http://imgur.com/a/qmzPA (http://imgur.com/a/qmzPA)
Still no DK logo
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Try to see if you can get one of these knobs. Best looking thing I've ever seen someone make (I don't get out much).
http://imgur.com/a/qmzPA (http://imgur.com/a/qmzPA)
Still no DK logo
???
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Try to see if you can get one of these knobs. Best looking thing I've ever seen someone make (I don't get out much).
http://imgur.com/a/qmzPA (http://imgur.com/a/qmzPA)
Still no DK logo
???
On the barrel like in Donkey Kong Country. I said something similar about the Barrel Of Kong. I thought it would be smashing with a DK icon on the side.
I can't put the idea back in my pocket, but that is what I was getting at. I think it looks cool.
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It would definitely look cool on the Barrel of Kong. Being burned into the side.
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Everyone that has commented is/has done great work and is smarter than me...but I want to offer one alternative piece of advice.
The one reason I would say it makes sense to buy your artwork BEFORE building the cab is - if you know you want to build as close of a replica to a real DK as possible - buying the correct artwork will force you to. If you building something off you'll have to redo it, but the end product will be closer to the real thing. And building an essentially perfect replica would let you more easily add authentic DK parts in the future if that ever comes up. (lets say a cool original DK marquee pops up on eBay for example!)
All that said, those aren't major things and I'd worry more about what's easiest and best for you.
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The Lcd distracts from the whole Oem build thing,.... But on that subject Jennifer gets all amused with the whole scan line talk, Back in the day the graphics were less than desirable and everyone dreamed of better, But today its all about going "retro" by degrading the image with fake lines.
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The Lcd distracts from the whole Oem build thing,.... But on that subject Jennifer gets all amused with the whole scan line talk, Back in the day the graphics were less than desirable and everyone dreamed of better, But today its all about going "retro" by degrading the image with fake lines.
Preach it sister. ;)
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Everyone that has commented is/has done great work and is smarter than me...but I want to offer one alternative piece of advice.
The one reason I would say it makes sense to buy your artwork BEFORE building the cab is - if you know you want to build as close of a replica to a real DK as possible - buying the correct artwork will force you to. If you building something off you'll have to redo it, but the end product will be closer to the real thing. And building an essentially perfect replica would let you more easily add authentic DK parts in the future if that ever comes up. (lets say a cool original DK marquee pops up on eBay for example!)
All that said, those aren't major things and I'd worry more about what's easiest and best for you.
This was my idea from the beginning. I do have something to confess... I picket up original marquee, screen bezel and control panel overlay on Ebay last night..! I don't want to come of like a ---meecrob--- and go against all the advice, but I still think that building from those make sense. Anyway, its not often you find someone on Ebay who ships big things like that to Sweden so I grabbed them when I had the chance. Worst case I'll just put them on my wall like awesome art!
I still go back and forth on the screen thing. I really would like to avoid a LCD. I went to a cafe that have some arcades today and the owner gave me tons of tips and he let me look inside one of his machines. I learned a lot! He kind of pushed me towards looking for a real arcade monitor and going the whole JAMMA and real PCB route. That is way overkill for me right now but maybe something in the middle. A PC CRT would probably look great to me. Easy to hook up to my PC running MAME right? Only think is I have no experience opening CRT's and I know it can be dangerous with the high voltage.
I looked around for wood today and it seems like I can find plywood that's 9/16. Also my step-dad have a friend who have a super big industrial laser-cuter that could cut most of the pieces for me. We will look into that when its time.
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Say the word and I'll have it moved to the Project Announcements section. Once move, you may want to modify the title in your first post so that it "announces" your project properly. :)
If you do decide to go with an LCD, I highly recommend that you simply buy Crafty Mech's SLG found here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129344.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129344.0.html) It will automatically add scanlines to your games without taxing the computer. I believe it requires the use of a VGA plug however (you may need a VGA to DVI adapter for the monitor).
Good luck and welcome to the forums!
DeLuSioNaL29
Thanks! If I go with a LCD I will look into this!
And yes, please move my thread. :]
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Don't get me wrong here, I do think a Lcd would not only turn this cab into a sweetie, but fast and cheap comparably, Just saying, don't try to make it something its not.
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Its just advice, not a demand. If you could get what you wanted shipped to you at a reasonable cost, why would anyone oppose that?
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Trevligt med ännu en svensk på forumet :applaud:
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I don't want to pimp another forum (it's got nothing on this one anyway) but this thread has a lot of dimensions if you are trying to track some of them down (better than jakobud).
http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=783.0 (http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=783.0)
Having now seen a few Nintendo cabs in the wild, not all the cabs were built precisely so don't sweat the minor details too much.
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I don't want to pimp another forum (it's got nothing on this one anyway) but this thread has a lot of dimensions if you are trying to track some of them down (better than jakobud).
http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=783.0 (http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=783.0)
Having now seen a few Nintendo cabs in the wild, not all the cabs were built precisely so don't sweat the minor details too much.
Thank you! That thread looks awesome, seems to be a lot of information there. Too bad all the pictures are dead. :(
And I think you are right, it's easy to get stuck in useless details. A problem I have with most of my projects! Good point!
Trevligt med ännu en svensk på forumet :applaud:
Haha, hej! ^^
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That was one of the builds I wanted to mention wweumina. Thank you. The other build was over at ukvac.com. It had a ton of pictures. I just cant seem to find it. :dunno And if that info doesnt help Neilboy has done a awesome DK resto. It was done in I believe in 2012 and it can be found here on the forum.