Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: RetroJames on December 09, 2003, 01:50:18 pm
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I have to ask, this is how you learn...
What exactly is "cold solder" (ing, ed, etc) mean?
What exactly is "tinning"? As in tinning the wire etc?
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A cold solder joint is when the solder doesn't properly adhere to the metal you're soldering to. It usually looks rather flat. A proper joint should be shiny. This isn't always the case, but it is a lot of the time.
Tinning refers to a slight coat of solder you put on the part you're about to place. It's best to tin wires before placing them.
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A cold solder joint is when the solder doesn't properly adhere to the metal you're soldering to. It usually looks rather flat. A proper joint should be shiny. This isn't always the case, but it is a lot of the time.
And just to add to this a little, the reason it's called a cold joint is because one or both of the two parts you were attempting to connect were not at the appropriate temperature for the solder to stick properly, or "cold".
It can also be seen as a hairline crack in the solder surrounding the pin on a part. These can be a nightmare to troubleshoot because the problems are usually intermittant and affected by temperature.
RandyT
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Awesome, now...when you have, say a connector on a joysitck that has been soldered and has a scrap of wire hanging from it, how do you go about removing that and cleaning the connetion so you can use a quick connect or even resolder?
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Desoldering braid or a solder sucker...
With the desoldering braid, you just lay it over the solder, then press the soldering iron on top of it...
When the solder is hot enough to melt, it will get "sucked" into the desoldering braid & you can just pull it off the switch's tab.
I've never used a solder sucker, but basically it's a soldering iron with a suckion bulb... You squeeze the bulb, then press the soldering iron tip to the solder & when it's melted, you let go of the bulb & it sucks the molten solder right off...
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Unless I'm totally misunderstanding your question, just heat the solder up with your soldering iron. You can get a desoldering tool at Radio Shack that looks a bit like a spring loaded syringe. You use it to suck up the hot solder before it gets a chance to cool back down.
-S
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Looks like I was too slow last time. ;)
I've used the bulb type, but the syringe type works better for me.
-S
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Looks like I was too slow last time. ;)
I've used the bulb type, but the syringe type works better for me.
-S
eh...
I've only used the desoldering braid... Never had a big enough job to mess with spending more money on...
But that's good to know. If/When I need a better tool, I'll look for the syringe type.
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I've had it for some time, but I don't think it cost more than $5 or so. It's got a catch that holds the plunger down, when you push the button it pops up, sucking the molten solder with it. Works a treat.
-S
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I learned what I know about soldering from the link provided on the main arcadecontrols site:
http://www.starbase74.com/mame/solderframe.htm
Even has movies of how to solder. Great stuff.
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I learned what I know about soldering from the link provided on the main arcadecontrols site:
http://www.starbase74.com/mame/solderframe.htm
Even has movies of how to solder. Great stuff.
Awesome link, the guys at BYOAC never dissapoint!
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Radio Shaft makes a nice little desoldering syringe style tool under the part number of 64-2098 (around $7). It would work very well for you. You can easily desolder the switch terminals completely and then you can use quick connect terminals if you want.
Remember to keep your desoldering tool cleaned out internally and lubricated properly. Most syringe style desoldering tools have rubber "O" rings inside on a spring loaded piston. This is what creates the suction when the button is pushed. Keep the o ring clean and lubricate it with VASELINE petroleum jelly.