Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: marcoboy on June 30, 2014, 04:26:41 pm
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Hi all!
I'm Marko from Finland and I've been building (PC cases, Home automation systems, RaspberryPi cars etc.) stuff, breaking stuff and programming stuff for many many many years...
I've been lurking here on ArcadeControls for ages and decided to register in hope for some encouragement and c&c.
My summer vacation is starting and I finally started my arcade cabinet project, and my theme is "WHITE ARCADE". And I do mean white as in no chrome T-moldings or blue lines here and there etc. I'm really detail oriented, sooo... this is probably going to take a long time and there's going to be few questions if anyone's willing to answer/help.
I've been sourcing materials for approx. year now and just ordered my main parts for the controller (buttons, lights, i-pac ultimate etc.) and some other random parts...
What do you guys think, should I document this journey and post some details here? Or perhaps start a Project thread? (Am I allowed as a new member? Don't know...)
Anyways, I really hope I'll enjoy it here :D
br,
Marko
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Welcome to the hobby!
You should definitely create a project thread and we love pics. :cheers:
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after a few posts then by all means yes
>What do you guys think, should I document this journey and post some details here? Or perhaps start a Project thread? (Am I allowed as a new member? Don't know...)<
there is great amount of ppl here that will guide u,answer u,sujest to u different thing's
but yes doc. it all u can for other build's..
ie what to do what not to do..
rember u are just walking right now
and welcome to a great form
ed
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Welcome aboard! Yes, start a project thread. And post pics, lots of pics. But please use the forum itself to archive the pics rather than linking to a photobucket or something. Also, do not take any negativity personally. There are some very strong personalities on this board and sometimes what they say can sound bad. It's normally not, they just suck at communicating. :banghead:
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What do you guys think, should I
Nay! Must!
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Hullo. Enjoy.... stay a while... stay forever :)
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Thanks guys :)
Photos you want.... Photos you shall get!! (Some of the parts are probably not gonna be used in this project, more parts and some replacement parts have already been ordered)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311724)
- Two sticks from ModMyPi (I know these propably are not quality parts, but will work for now.)
- LED spot with remote for lighting the cp from above (from the bottom of the marquee)
- Proximity sensor
- Analog stick
- Leds in various colours
- Some wire cutters and strippers
- Few add-on board for the Pi
- 12 buttons for the main controls
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311726)
- Various tools and parts for the cp prototyping.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311728)
- Some more prototyping toold.
- Drill bits & Dremel 8100 Wireless multitool
- Electricity wire for the led spot from the photo 1
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I'll be watching! :cheers:
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Thanks :)
And for the user interface (on Mame/Mala/Maximus Arcade etc.) i'll be using this little devil (mounted top to bottom under the marquee):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311756)
And probably with a software like this: http://www.pointable.net/ (http://www.pointable.net/)
After the new driver version the Leap seems to be quite accurate and not nearly as frustrating to use as it used to be.
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Wiring up LEDs is a fun job ;)
Here are some RGB leds for the buttons to be connected to i-Pac Ultimate I/O that got shipped yesterday!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311817)
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Hi!
It's sketching time :)
The cabinet is approx. 60cm wide and 180cm tall. I tried to keep it as flat as possible to fit in my tiny apartment ;)
The cp is approx. 25cm deep and the box on the bottom is a 30cm*30cm subwoofer.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311898)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311900)
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Got cheap Logitech Z200 speakers... Reminds me why NOT to buy crap!
2 drivers per enclosure ---my bottom---!!! (that lower "driver" is probably an excuse for some kind of "Bass Reflex System 2000"):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311908)
Got coin door and mech from Ultimarc. Also got some white genuine leather and some other random parts from local shops:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311910)
Got white fan, some connectors, RGB leds, iPac Ultimate I/O, RGB LED buttons etc:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311912)
And more importantly, some appropriate candy:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311914)
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Looks good. The only change I would consider is cutting a bit off the base to accommodate trim\molding work you could butt into when placing it against the wall.
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Thanks "leapinlew", I'll be sure to do that!
Installing the leds (2 RGB LEDs per button) to the 12 buttons will be a fun task. The sockets I soldered earlier will plug in to the LED pins:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311966)
Some prototyping of the buttons / stick, I think I should lower them a bit to make sure that there's enough room between the stick and the monitor:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311968)
I've been toying with the thought of making the cp of two parts (ie. making it modular). Left side (Player 1) would be fixed and the right side would be switchable between Player 2 controls / Trackball / Spinner / etc? What do you guys think?
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What do you guys think?
I think you should look at the joystick / button layouts on slagcoin...
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What do you guys think?
I think you should look at the joystick / button layouts on slagcoin...
Thanks, I've been there many many times. I don't know what you were referring to, but I don't really feel much difference between my "ordered" approach compared to the more "natural" layout of the classic panels. Maybe when the gaming session has lasted hours, but that doesn't happen... Ever :D
I do think there should probably be less space between the buttons. I'm just not that keen on the "cramped" feel of some panels...
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I fixed the spacing of the buttons in this mockup. I kept the buttons in the zigzag pattern, because it just feels (and looks) best to me... Or better than the grid model.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=311970)
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That Speaker-Type is called a "Passive Radiator". They usually have a mass on the end of the cone.. which is tuned in a certain way to get the best action.
Passive Radiators can make some very nice low end, without distortion that usually comes from cranking bass up on smaller speakers.
The air causes the mass in the radiator, to move at a certain low end frequency. Its very similar to a higher-end 'musical subwoofer'. (Rather than a mere fake boomy nightmare)
Im not a big fan of bass ports. A bass-port, is a tuned hole... where air can go in and out of the speaker. The hole diameter and port shape.. create a fake bass sound. Its artificial and boomy. Not accurate to the real sound at all. A lot of Speaker MFG. started using this, because these speakers sound louder, with less power. Its also cheaper and easier.. thus more profit. Sucks.
Some of the best speakers, are Air-tight. They use the air inside the speaker, as a sort of spring. "Acoustic Suspension"
If you press gently on the cone.. you will feel that its very hard to move it. A lot of resistance force. These speakers require more power.. and often are not the loudest speakers, but they extremely accurate. They sound so much better than the Fake-Bass boomers.. that you dont even care that they are not as loud. Usually the older vintage stuff, is the best... stuff from the 70s. In almost all cases.. You will know if its a speaker worth buying.. if you have to grunt a little to move it. The older higher quality speakers are most often very heavy. The thicker wood reduces distortions and leakage. They also often have massive high power, high quality, crossover networks inside. The speakers also having very heavy magnets. Im fairly certain that One of my bookshelf EPI 8" 2ways ..weights more than both my Technics 12" 3-ways combined.
I do have to say however, that I was kind of impressed with the first Passive Radiator set Id heard.. which was from a Phillips Woox boom-box playing in Walmart many moons ago. Unlike most of those 'port-only' boxes.. the Phillips version was played full blast, and there was zero distortion from the bass. It was also very low in the extension, and not overly boomy sounding.
Their woox system is 'slightly' different than a typical passive radiator.. as it has two back to back radiators separated with an air chamber of sorts.. (not sealed however) and each of radiators has 2 or 3 expansion rings... so it can expand and contract a lot further than a typical speaker.
You can get some nice sound out of small drivers.. but, I dont think I could go any less than 6" speakers... or your are losing a lot of non-sub bass response.. and dialing up the power, is probably going to distort them.
EPI / Genesis make some awesome 6 to 8" 2way systems. Their inverted tweeter will blow you out of the water.. with its amazing clarity and 3d soundstage. The only thing Id heard that came close to that kind of awesome vivid 3d soundstage.. was a Radioshack Dipole Ribbon Tweeter. However, because the ribbon was a full 360 degrees.. it often sounded and felt a little too odd at times. Too 'non directional' for its own good. It also didnt have the Lush midrange capability that the Epi's have either.
A guy whom used to work for EPI, still makes and sells brand new components. However, you could probably get a full speaker set for cheaper on craiglist, or Ebay.
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That Speaker-Type is called a "Passive Radiator". They usually have a mass on the end of the cone.. which is tuned in a certain way to get the best action.
Passive Radiators can make some very nice low end, without distortion that usually comes from cranking bass up on smaller speakers.
The air causes the mass in the radiator, to move at a certain low end frequency. Its very similar to a higher-end 'musical subwoofer'. (Rather than a mere fake boomy nightmare)
Im not a big fan of bass ports. A bass-port, is a tuned hole... where air can go in and out of the speaker. The hole diameter and port shape.. create a fake bass sound. Its artificial and boomy. Not accurate to the real sound at all. A lot of Speaker MFG. started using this, because these speakers sound louder, with less power. Its also cheaper and easier.. thus more profit. Sucks.
Some of the best speakers, are Air-tight. They use the air inside the speaker, as a sort of spring. "Acoustic Suspension"
If you press gently on the cone.. you will feel that its very hard to move it. A lot of resistance force. These speakers require more power.. and often are not the loudest speakers, but they extremely accurate. They sound so much better than the Fake-Bass boomers.. that you dont even care that they are not as loud. Usually the older vintage stuff, is the best... stuff from the 70s. In almost all cases.. You will know if its a speaker worth buying.. if you have to grunt a little to move it. The older higher quality speakers are most often very heavy. The thicker wood reduces distortions and leakage. They also often have massive high power, high quality, crossover networks inside. The speakers also having very heavy magnets. Im fairly certain that One of my bookshelf EPI 8" 2ways ..weights more than both my Technics 12" 3-ways combined.
I do have to say however, that I was kind of impressed with the first Passive Radiator set Id heard.. which was from a Phillips Woox boom-box playing in Walmart many moons ago. Unlike most of those 'port-only' boxes.. the Phillips version was played full blast, and there was zero distortion from the bass. It was also very low in the extension, and not overly boomy sounding.
Their woox system is 'slightly' different than a typical passive radiator.. as it has two back to back radiators separated with an air chamber of sorts.. (not sealed however) and each of radiators has 2 or 3 expansion rings... so it can expand and contract a lot further than a typical speaker.
You can get some nice sound out of small drivers.. but, I dont think I could go any less than 6" speakers... or your are losing a lot of non-sub bass response.. and dialing up the power, is probably going to distort them.
EPI / Genesis make some awesome 6 to 8" 2way systems. Their inverted tweeter will blow you out of the water.. with its amazing clarity and 3d soundstage. The only thing Id heard that came close to that kind of awesome vivid 3d soundstage.. was a Radioshack Dipole Ribbon Tweeter. However, because the ribbon was a full 360 degrees.. it often sounded and felt a little too odd at times. Too 'non directional' for its own good. It also didnt have the Lush midrange capability that the Epi's have either.
A guy whom used to work for EPI, still makes and sells brand new components. However, you could probably get a full speaker set for cheaper on craiglist, or Ebay.
Thanks! That's really interesting reading! 8) I knew that it was something like that, but was still "not impressed" ;) I imagined that they would just say that the enclosure contains one driver and one passive radiator. I my self like closed speakers (I have a bunch of Finnish "hi-fi" speakers. Amphion, Genelec etc.)
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I fixed the spacing of the buttons in this mockup. I kept the buttons in the zigzag pattern, because it just feels (and looks) best to me... Or better than the grid model.
Be cautious of the spacing you're using here. I did a similar layout, and the 'nut' on the bottom of my buttons overlapped on other buttons surrounding it.
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I fixed the spacing of the buttons in this mockup. I kept the buttons in the zigzag pattern, because it just feels (and looks) best to me... Or better than the grid model.
Be cautious of the spacing you're using here. I did a similar layout, and the 'nut' on the bottom of my buttons overlapped on other buttons surrounding it.
Thanks, good tip! I'll have to probably leave more space between the buttons. At the moment I use buttons without nuts, but I might upgrade later!
And the building has started!
I'm using 12mm (1/2 in) plywood for the control panel. And glued all the pieces together with an extremely hard and clear wood glue. After the glue was dry I started to fasten all the panels together with 20mm long M3 screws.
There's 1cm long plastic "ferrules?" between the PCB and the panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312123)
The control panel will be a separate "unit" that will just slip in to the actual arcade cabinet.
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How are you going to position the Leap to get the full reach of the motion sensor ?
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How are you going to position the Leap to get the full reach of the motion sensor ?
At the moment my plan is to position the sensor like this (it has the range of 1 meter):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312125)
The Leap will be used to scroll through a game lists and other admin functions.
There could be some problems with the reflections from the plexiglas over the monitor, but that's something I'll have to test when the project reaches that point...
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How are you going to position the Leap to get the full reach of the motion sensor ?
At the moment my plan is to position the sensor like this (it has the range of 1 meter):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312125)
The Leap will be used to scroll through a game lists and other admin functions.
There could be some problems with the reflections from the plexiglas over the monitor, but that's something I'll have to test when the project reaches that point...
I always thought you couldnt mount the leap motion 'upside down' as your picture describes but if this works I have a new destination for the one lying around the house here :applaud: maybe i`m gonna steal your idea and put it in my own cabinet :D
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I always thought you couldnt mount the leap motion 'upside down' as your picture describes but if this works I have a new destination for the one lying around the house here :applaud: maybe i`m gonna steal your idea and put it in my own cabinet :D
It can be positioned almost in any way. Even on the side (in theory, but that would not be very practical when one hand obstructs the sensor's view of the other hand).
Some progress:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312248)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312250)
I love Dremel in these kind of "small" builds. It's so easy to use (although I hate the cordless version with a passion).
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All the holes for the control panel are now done! WOHOOO! Next I'll have to start gluing the foam rubber and leather to the panel!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312348)
Bought some headphones today for the cabinet (I'm planning to install them so that when playing at night etc. both players can enjoy full volume without upsetting neighbors). The headphones have a microphone that I'm planning to hook up to some buttons so that when you push the button, the game volume is lowered and the other player can hear you talk through the headset...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312350)
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Made some more progress today, so here we go!
Glued some 3mm foam to the control panel plywood, this seemed to be a LOT easier than expected:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312368)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312370)
And performed a first fitting of the leather on top of the foam. I'm really pleased the way this turned out. It's just a liiiitle bit soft, but not too much to cause any problems:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312372)
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Is it me or is this like the cleanest most organized build ever. Every photo the tools and the parts are lined up perfectly. No messes anything.
Nice job so far.
I'm a little pessimistic about white leather though. I can see the area where the palm rests getting worn out via skin oils and friction over time. Similar to a car seat. It may be me, but that small give in that cushion would annoy me and maybe even just that type texture.
However, this looks very interesting and i will be following.
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Is it me or is this like the cleanest most organized build ever. Every photo the tools and the parts are lined up perfectly. No messes anything.
Nice job so far.
I'm a little pessimistic about white leather though. I can see the area where the palm rests getting worn out via skin oils and friction over time. Similar to a car seat. It may be me, but that small give in that cushion would annoy me and maybe even just that type texture.
However, this looks very interesting and i will be following.
Thanks! ;D I'm doing this project in my small apartment and I wouldn't want to live in the middle of a huge mess :(
I have heard so many "horror stories" about the leather getting yellow etc. when used constantly. But my own experience with white leather isn't that bad! You just need to make sure to protect it with "leather protector cream" (I have no idea what that is called in english) every 2-4 months. My office chair is still crispy white after about 4 years of sweating on it (and after many years of use hardly any cabinet looks new anyways...). But I understand that this is a risky choice!
Other possible issue is the softness of the panel and I agree, it can be too much. After testing it for few hours, it's ok for me. I'll just have to try and gather some more experience using the leather padded panel. In my opinion this is one of those things where looks will/can go over function :D I'm not sure if it's really apparent from the animation but the give is very minimal.
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Thanks for the explanation....... :applaud:
Looking forward to your progresss.
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Leather conditioner works great on these kind of leather surfaces, buy a bottle of Gliptone leather conditioner and a bottle of Gliptone leather cleaner, use it every 3 months and the leather will keep in shape :applaud: I`m a car detailer hobbyist and that stuff is amazing for my own leather interior ;D
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I bet PBJ knows all about "leather protector cream". >:D
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Leather conditioner works great on these kind of leather surfaces, buy a bottle of Gliptone leather conditioner and a bottle of Gliptone leather cleaner, use it every 3 months and the leather will keep in shape :applaud: I`m a car detailer hobbyist and that stuff is amazing for my own leather interior ;D
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to find a retailer/re-seller here in Finland... They don't seem to be shipping internationally.
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Leather portion of the project has successfully completed. Quite happy with the way stapling turned out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312436)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312438)
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Buttons have now all been inserted to the control panel. These buttons doesn't seem to be particularly good quality, because 3 of the clamp pins broke when pushing the buttons to their holes :( But I placed a small drop of hot glue on every button, so they should hold on place.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312445)
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Clamp pins??
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Clamp pins??
Yeah, probably a really wrong wording... :dunno
These little buggers:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312451)
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Ahh. That's because those buttons are designed for metal panels, not wood.
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Ahh. That's because those buttons are designed for metal panels, not wood.
Aaaaa! That makes sense. Live and learn :) They work and seem to hold in place so I'm happy at the moment!
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Today was a wiring prototype day! All the wires are going to be inside the spiral cover used here for the sticks. Adding the leds and led wiring will probably make this a huge mess of wires.... we'll see!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312575)
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have faith its not too bad, but here is an example of a complete led cab wiring job and it ended up very neat.
(http://robandgabe.com/rdowney/arcadeodyssey/cpwiring/images/IMG_5498.JPG)
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All the wiring done! And seems to work :)
I had a couple of problems with the sockets I used to connect the leds (the led's wires are too thin for the Harwin sockets), but managed to get it working by soldering a tad of solder to every led leg, thus making them a bit thicker.
Completed wiring. Didn't get too messy although I'm using RGB leds. (Notice the ONE cable tie holder that didn't feel like all the others).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312624)
All lights on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312630)
Random colors in dark.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312626)
Lights off.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312628)
have faith its not too bad, but here is an example of a complete led cab wiring job and it ended up very neat.
That is some seriously delicious wiring right there!
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:applaud: :applaud:
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:applaud: :applaud:
Thanks, 8)
Couple of new parts arrived from around the world!
Power switch for the cabinet. This is a "touch" switch with integrated light to indicate the state.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312646)
White EL-sheet (size A4), this is going to be a light behind some kind of pixel-art cutout on the back of the cabinet. I have not decided what it should be... I like the Space Invaders characters, but they might be too "used".
If you guys have any ideas for the cutout "pixel" style image for this "all-white" project, please share!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312644)
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Mala GUI is ready. I have some static animated on the background and colors to complement the light cabinet.
There's about 20 emulators installed, and LEDBlinky/iPAC Ultimate integration. Everything seems to be working perfectly after some serious command line tinkering :D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=312992)
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Hi all!
I have a question / plan regarding external image viewer for the control mappings on various emulators.
- First I was thinking about command line image viewer with the ability to show "button assignment guide images" in "OSD" style at the start of the emulator, but overlaying images on top of the emulators isn't really working because of all kinds of z-index etc. issues on windows/directx etc.
- Secondly I thought of the way to send commands to Raspberry Pi via SSH to load button assignment images from the PC. These images would be viewed on a tiny 2in TFT screen connected to the Raspberry and placed on the CP between the P1 & P2 controls. This could work, but seems like a hassle...
Any ideas? Or ways that this has been accomplished previously? If not, I might start trying the 2nd idea...
Help would be appreciated :angel:
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Have you looked into Marquee Magician? (2nd display)
Another possible approach is to use .lay (layout) files.
Check out Mr. Do's (http://mrdo.mameworld.info/index.php) site for info on .lay files and MAMELayPlus (http://mamelayplus.jimdo.com/descargas/) if you are using a widescreen display.
Scott
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Have you looked into Marquee Magician? (2nd display)
Another possible approach is to use .lay (layout) files.
Check out Mr. Do's (http://mrdo.mameworld.info/index.php) site for info on .lay files and MAMELayPlus (http://mamelayplus.jimdo.com/descargas/) if you are using a widescreen display.
Scott
Thanks!
I think I should perhaps venture to the multiple layouts route... I don't have a secondary monitor nor an output for that in my PC.
My problem with the multiple layouts approach in MaLa is that the control mappings are only visible before starting the emulator (there's 39 of them, and when friends are visiting I doubt they memorize the controls too quickly ;) ). I would like to show the mappings all the time / 30 seconds while the emulator is starting. That's why I thought of the Raspberry Pi/LCD approach (I have the Raspberry Pi already).
But perhaps I shouldn't try to make things too complicated for my self, this is my first cabinet build after all :D
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Here's the overlay I'm planning to use in MaLa layouts (blurring and header is just for highlighting this example). I know the PS1 controls are not the most intuitive ones, but I think this could work on casual playing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=313182)
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can you provide the plans or the measurements for the cab? I think it's the perfect size i'm looking for. What size screen will you be using?